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My first V0.1... "the fat finger test"


Buurman
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I am starting my V0.1 today (prints) but it will be the first printer I build now, my v2.4's need to wait, its my turn now...

Deecided on this MOD for a raised Tophat. https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/golas/v0-extended-tophat-hinge

It will probably bite me in the ass at some point, but lets see! Printing the Tophat in one piece right now, you dont have a 350 build plate just for show, right?

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1 hour ago, smirk said:

That does look really good. 🤔 Is it really enough of an excuse to acquire a bigger Voron just to print a one-piece top-hat for my V0 ?!

MAN LOGIC: YES!

WOMAN LOGIC: WELL... WHO KNOWS... certainly not us men... 

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Ok, back to starting on the V0.1 😉

Unpacked everything in the Formbot kit.... EVERYTHING IS SO SMALL!!!!! hahaha, so cute! feeling like I am making a printer for my 2 year old.. 

Went trough the manual, already suprised about the "preloading" amount of nuts in the rails.. this is where you can easely slip up for sure..

And I see you have to go beack every time to find out.. what frame piece is piece F, or E, or H.. with such minor differences.. and only mentioned it the top of the manual, so I advise, print those 2 pages.. DONE.

Printing hte parts, black (matt) and RED, yet I dont have the right yellow yet, its still not shipped. So printing now in another yellow, will change it later.

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The tall red standing parts are because im going for a higher tophad, with hinges.

Edited by Buurman
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9 hours ago, Buurman said:

Went trough the manual, already suprised about the "preloading" amount of nuts in the rails.. this is where you can easely slip up for sure..

And it is a pain to rectify, I know. Looking good so far. And the raised tophat came out a treat. This is going to be a beauty

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2 hours ago, Buurman said:

wait till he needs to put this 6 nuts in on the back of the bed holder…

And if you want to mount some wago mounts on the bed, you will need some pre-loaded nuts in the two horizontal 100mm bed extrusions. Oh yeah and for those mods - pi camera/logitech camera, Neopixels (needs nuts in two most top extrusions - where the hat fits in), chamber leds, nevermore filter (needs nuts in Left bottom extrusion) - Ahhh the list goes on. 

What I am trying to say, is figure out the mods before the build and preload those nasty little M3 nuts

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im still preloading my nuts.......

ok. getting better at it, but you start to realize how good the v2.4R2 manual is, way more detail, where with the V0 manual, you have to guess what direction the connectors of the motors go, etc,etc. 

And makes you realize, how awesome the ball bearing nuts are in the 2020 frame hahaha! 

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8 hours ago, Buurman said:

im still preloading my nuts

It never ends! My eye-sight is not what it was, I can't tell if you're using nut holders? Oh if you are, you won't want them for the two nuts for front door magnetic "lock" holder thingy.

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10 hours ago, Buurman said:

im still preloading my nuts.......

I used the following which keeps the nuts in position:

https://github.com/zruncho3d/f-zero/tree/main/STLs/NoDropNuts

They are designed that when two are put flush together, it would for example match the holes in the Vo - parts. No fiddling trying to get them in position

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I think I’m mostly done with my nuts (yes I reached that age) 😂 

Trying to find how to put klicky in while I wait for a fan.

I also realized inbus (sixedge) screwdrivers are a must in this build. The ones I use with a v2.4 build won’t do 🙈

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On 10/30/2022 at 11:24 PM, mvdveer said:

And if you want to mount some wago mounts on the bed, you will need some pre-loaded nuts in the two horizontal 100mm bed extrusions. Oh yeah and for those mods - pi camera/logitech camera, Neopixels (needs nuts in two most top extrusions - where the hat fits in), chamber leds, nevermore filter (needs nuts in Left bottom extrusion) - Ahhh the list goes on. 

What I am trying to say, is figure out the mods before the build and preload those nasty little M3 nuts

Like.... plan??? .. no.. plan ahead?? 

Muahahahaha!!! never gonna work, I guess I need to find a no preload option, or take it apart 10 times... (probably the last)

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Learned 2 things, not mentioned, or poorly mentioned,OR poorly read 😛 in the manual.

1. You have to shorten your cable shroud  aka "bendy thingy", for me 10 links and the 2 ends were the golden length, longer would block the rail glider top right.

2. I am surprised about the.... just stick it on the bottom/back system, very high tech!! hahaha!

3. Ordering a Orbiter v2 is hell in the Netherlands... ended up ordering at my trusty BIQU boys... not the fastest but honest prices and no delivery costs.

Did most of the electronics today, and most of the mini SB wiring.. crap, thick fingers.. that takes skills...scratch that.. that takes, cursing, deep breaths, more cursing and glue, because I break things, in this case trying to get a led in... arghh..

Tried to get the wiring in very neat, but when I found out how the usb had to go in.... I lost my patience 😛 

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It's looking really good.

Have to confess I'm not 100% convinced by using sticky tape to mount things - that's the kinda half-assed thing I'd dream up! However, it does work although I'd not had to dismantle a V0 completely (that's my next project, once I finish my never ending continuiing build).

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

Did most of the electronics today, and most of the mini SB wiring.. crap, thick fingers.. that takes skills...scratch that.. that takes, cursing, deep breaths, more cursing and glue, because I break things, in this case trying to get a led in... arghh..

Perhaps we should run these build diaries as vlogs for the comedy factor educational experience of learning new words.

Innocent child: "Klote? Daddy, is that man swearing like a paratrooper?"

Loving Father: "Nay, child, I believe he is speaking Dutch."

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Dang that stuff is so crowded. For one, it makes me certain to use a Revo Voron for my hotend--they are so tiny and compact; it should relax the tight fit there. I also wonder if there's a way to connect the Pi completely via GPIO and eliminate the big USB cable.

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