My first V0.1... "the fat finger test"

[Buurman]

1 minute ago, claudermilk said:

I also wonder if there's a way to connect the Pi completely via GPIO

I woudnt see why not, just makes the Klipper Firmware build different (not choosing thedefault USB option) but yeah, sure you could.

I can also try to find a better cable, but .... ah, its closed after today and you dont look at it anymore, the USB connection is the most stable option (they say).

So I think I keep it as it is. Now working on customized dual color skirts with a VERY tiny OLED display. (spoiler alert)

[claudermilk]

Yeah, if it's working then leave it alone. I have my Trident (Pi 4 + Octopus) set up with a GPIO connection. I followed the Steve Builds stream and it worked without a hitch. I only have had to add a second 5V wire (much) later when I started to see intermittent undervolt warnings. 

I took a quick look at the SKR Mini E3 Github, and it looks like there's an "I/O" header right near the USB. The docs on exactly what each pin are is buried more than I cared to dig for right now.

[atrushing]

8 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

it makes me certain to use a Revo Voron for my hotend--they are so tiny and compact

That is a good point. The Rapido HF would be really fun to work with!

[Buurman]

7 minutes ago, atrushing said:

That is a good point. The Rapido HF would be really fun to work with!

Its mostly the wiring of the Revo Voron, its not from the bottom with separate heater and thermos.. much much better indeed...

[Buurman]

8 minutes ago, atrushing said:

The Rapido HF would be really fun to work with!

Guess thats the last one?? hahahahaha

[atrushing]

Just now, Buurman said:

Guess thats the last one?? hahahahaha

Yep. Revo Voron, Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF. The Rapido UHF is another 8mm taller than the HF!

[Buurman]

Didnt want to post a spoiler but am so proud of how this turned out... Tinkercad to the rescue for a noob like me...

With lots of cutting and pasting and so on.. made my own 2 color with display, one piece skirt. sides will also be cool, but first he needs to print, yes, cause im putting in my serial..

Mini display just ordered, so will be here tomorrow I think, didnt want a large display on it...

Edited November 3, 2022 by Buurman

[mvdveer]

13 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I also wonder if there's a way to connect the Pi completely via GPIO and eliminate the big USB cable.

How about using the TFT header on the SKR E3Mini ?

 

Following this link will describe how:

 

 

[smirk]

17 hours ago, Buurman said:

Didnt want to post a spoiler but am so proud of how this turned out...

Oooo, purty!

You can be justifiably proud of that beautious creation!

[mvdveer]

17 hours ago, Buurman said:

o proud of how this turned out.

That's a beauty!

[Buurman]

I think I have it on... the wiring, semi challenge, and on and off a few times to check wires.

The motor out wires.. are.. close.. they almost get squashed.. but yeah, its mini SB..

[atrushing]

4 minutes ago, Buurman said:

The motor out wires.. are.. close.. they almost get squashed.. but yeah, its mini SB..

Did you use the new x_carriage? @mvdveer alerted me to an issue there so I uploaded a new version.

It looks great though!

[mvdveer]

@Buurman Looks good. But then you do build a good printer. Attention to detail and precision is my observation of your builds. As @atrushing said - you need to  use the altered carriage in the mini Stealthburner repository.

(x_carriage_mini_stlb_ver1.1.0.stl)

[Buurman]

22 hours ago, mvdveer said:

@Buurman Looks good. But then you do build a good printer. Attention to detail and precision is my observation of your builds. As @atrushing said - you need to  use the altered carriage in the mini Stealthburner repository.

(x_carriage_mini_stlb_ver1.1.0.stl)

mmmh, strange, did I miss that? I will check it out, but it can stay this way, they are free, but, only just...

And thanks @mvdveer I really appreciate that coming from you, who builds with love and not prestige!

[Buurman]

I think I did use the right one, its just still very tight, the wires out of the motor almost get squashed on the ramp of the carriage, but, its ok, but its tight.

I try to make a picture later.

[Buurman]

wired everything today, installed klipper mainsail, had too look up some stuff again, since I normally just copy past 90% from my other V2's.

Running into something weird when homing for the first time, had to change direction of the bed, went up instead of down, always fun...

Then, X goes to the right, hits the X-endstop that also triggers, but something goed very wrong then, OR X is just carrying on going to the right, OR its trying to move Y but it start to hump the side (sounds like X is just pushing on, but I dont get why yet.

Like I said and can see in Klipper, X endstop gets triggered.

The homing sequence on a V0 is also I guess:

1. Lowering bed a bit (way too much by default)

2. Moving Duct to the right

3. Moving Duct to the back

Right? I mean right as in.. confirmative? not like in right, like in Left  

 

EDIT: never mind, found it, somehow swapped motors, only change ! dir on one motor, forgot the other. (idiot) 

For the next one, first just do a G28 X 

Way more helpfull.

Edited November 6, 2022 by Buurman

[mvdveer]

14 minutes ago, Buurman said:

somehow swapped motors

You beat me to it. Had the same problem on mine. Wrongly connected the A and B motors.

[Buurman]

Just now, mvdveer said:

You beat me to it. Had the same problem on mine. Wrongly connected the A and B motors.

Well, im not done yet, but switched them back, I only changed DIR ! on one more X only, forgot Y...

And on a Ender that works fine, but on a CoreXY Voron, not so much....

[Buurman]

Now on X he is doing alright, but Y is moving forward instead of to the back.

Think I never had this... I wonder what I need to change now...

 

Maybe the "homing_positive_dir: true" to false?

[stepper_y]
step_pin: PB10
## Refer to https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/#v0
dir_pin: PB2                                                        # Check motor direction in link above. If inverted, add a ! before PB2
enable_pin: !PB11
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation: 200                                        # Set to 400 for 0.9° degree stepper motor, 200 is for 1.8° stepper motors
endstop_pin: ^PC1
position_endstop: 120
position_max: 120
homing_speed: 10                                                    # Can be increased after initial setup, Max 100
homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true

[mvdveer]

Just now, Buurman said:

Maybe the "homing_positive_dir: true" to false?

Depends where you have defined 0,0. Front left of the bed or rear right. Normally it would be rear right, then the value will be positive and Homing_positive_dir: true

Would be worth a try to see if it makes a difference by changing it.

Also remember, both X and Y motors need to have the same step direction e.g dir_pin: PB2 (Y motor) and dir_pin: P?? (X motor). If you invert one, then you need to invert both. 

[Buurman]

Yeah, that the first mistake I made, so yes, they are both the same, I am starting to think.... that I do still need to switch motors plugs, and then invert them maybe.

Something goes wrong here, if X is in the right way, Y should work correctly too.

But its not, SO, I expect still a switch of motors...

[mvdveer]

Have you tried changing the homing dir to false?

 

[Buurman]

Well, I think you have to wait for your answer... I think I fried the board, took out the stepper motor plug, thought it was off, but it was on, and its dead.

Fried the stepper motor I guess.. hmmm, ok, I have a v2 here, maybe I use that in the meantime, or wait for a v3 to arrive ordering now.. crap..

[mvdveer]

1 minute ago, Buurman said:

I think I fried the board, took out the stepper motor plug, thought it was off,

Oh noooooooooooooooo

[smirk]

5 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I fried the board

You're in good company