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Which parts should I upgrade/reprint for an early V2.4 to V2.4r2?



I built my Voron 2.4 almost 2 years ago during the height of the lockdown. It's an amazing device (Z Offset inconsistencies 😠) with fantastic print quality.

So having just stated I have no reason to upgrade it, I've been wondering if any of the improved parts from r1 and r2 would be worth upgrading to. I probably won't bother reprinting the skirts unless there is a compelling reason to do so.

Here are some of the upgrades I'm considering while I'm re-printing later version parts:

  • Is changing to the StealthBurner worthwhile?
  • Is the MGN12 x axis rail upgrade worthwhile?
  • Klicky Probe (will this get rid of the X-Offset annoyances)?
  • Hall effect endstop

These are the "main" parts I see that have changed from the original V2.4:

V2.4r1 (May 4, 2021)



Gantry/X_Axis/X Carriage/Printheads/E3D V6/printhead_front_e3dv6.stl






V2.4r2 (Feb 23, 2022)











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I have an early'ish 2.4 as well and have done several of the upgrades listed above and here are my thoughts. 

  • Klicky Probe - I went with the Euclid probe and this has been the best upgrade so far.  First layers are consistent and its automatic.  What's not to love?  I will not build another one without it.  Klicky or Euclid or TAP, the choice is yours but I for one do not miss all the Z Calibrations..
  • StealthBurner - Just completed that one a few weeks ago.  I like it, cant say its better or worse that my old after burner but it does seem to be sturdier with the MGN12. 
  • MGN12 - Absolutely yes.  My MGN9 setup always had a bit of slop and that is gone. Fir this part of the printer its worth it and was easy to do.

My current build has all of these as part of the day-1 plan.

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I have a R1 on the operation table right now and upgrading it for a friend.

Only thing I kept really were the Z motor mounts (feet) only put other color on them (square ones) and other rubber feet.

All other things replaced, took it fully apart exept the frame, but wanted to rebuild the gantry too, with pinned gears in the mounts.

I think there is no big reason to change from R1 to R2 is its working well.

The Stealthburner on a MGN12 rail is working pretty well, but man, its heavy..  but I feel a single thick rail is better than 2 mgn9 rails.

The stealthburner itself is ok, its very easy to take apart when needed, genius design.. perfect wiring possibilities, super clean look.

The leds looks great, useful on first layer to see whats happening.

I build every Voron with the Rama front idlers, since they are much better than the default ones, and better looking.

The klicky works pretty perfect I think, lose the physical Z end stop, let klicky be it. much better.

Same for the TAP, beside adding more weight to the already heavy SB, it works well, if you want to go that way, just be very precise when building it.

If a klicky can go on a R1 (and I woudnt know why not) I would just add that... and keep your fine working printer 😉




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What is this?

"with pinned gears in the mounts."


"but I feel a single thick rail is better than 2 mgn9 rails."

For my original build I only installed 1 of the MGN9 rails based on the build videos I found on Youtube.  While I agree that the MGN12 and SB are heavy, my AB on a single MGN9 did show signs of slop far earlier than expected.  Maybe I just got crap rails in my kit..  The SB on MGN12 is cranking out parts like a beast.  lol.  So. yes, I agree with you, it is better in my observations so far.  The AB on a single rail did the job but the SB on a MGN12 is a tank that will last.

"I build every Voron with the Rama front idlers, since they are much better than the default ones, and better looking."

Link?  Would love to see this and include on my current build.  Learn something new every day.

"The klicky works pretty perfect I think, lose the physical Z end stop, let klicky be it"

Wut?  I must have missed that in the fine print.  I still use a Z-Endstop for the Auto Z code.  You mean to tell me that klicky alone will do the job without using this with it?
GitHub - protoloft/klipper_z_calibration: Klipper plugin for self-calibrating z-offset

I run a Euclid, which is like klicky but then added the above to never again have to do any kind of Z-Endstop cal.  Love to know how klicky replaces both.  

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Ramalama Front Idlers. I agree they look better and should work better. I did learn you have to be diligent in making sure the top and bottom tension bolts are even; otherwise your belt will ride up on one side of the idler and start wearing itself away.

Klicky still uses the stock Z endstop. Auto Z just uses the endstop to probe the nozzle and the switch body so it can calculate the offset between the two when it probes the bed. That's how it arrives at the correct offset for a proper first layer. The readme goes into a lot of detail with diagrams to explain what it's doing.

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