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Voron Trident Build


jpregione
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Have had my MK3s for a couple years now and while waiting for their next product decided to try my hand at a Vorn, just couldn't pass up the opportunity after seeing so many videos demonstrating the print quality and the speed... oh the speed. Chose the Trident mainly because I saw someone was tinkering with idex. Did a lot of looking (searching) for kits and ended up ordering the kit from Fabreeko, communication before even considering the purchase was awesome and very refreshing... hopefully the rest of the Voron community is just as nice. No experience printing ABS on my current printer so decided to order printed parts, this in itself was an experience because the options on the Trident are wide and I had no idea what "configuration" I needed to order for the printed parts (direct drive vs bowden, CW1 or CW2, AB or SB, PCB, control board... you know the drill. Luckily this is one of the areas where Fabreeko shined and basically listed out what options I needed to select. Started watching build videos on the day I ordered, initial thought was WTH am I doing, but after revisiting videos the picture got much clearer. Have had printer kit for a week-ish now so built the frame and started loading software on my raspberri pi. Did I say I built the frame? Did I say how I love the blind joints? I'm glad I built the frame before getting printed parts or I feel I would have rushed things a bit... those darn blind joints are a PITA.... get things to what appear to be just right, tighten it down and crap.. it shifted. Loosen a bit, get things re-aligned, tighten down... crap... it shifted. I probably revisited the frame 4 times over a week's time, but the result is nice. I keep having dreams (not really) of whether or not my screws are tight enough for the long hall and have to catch myself periodically to not touch it.... so we'll see how long I can last. Printed parts are supposed to be in tomorrow so this weekend will be a fun one. Didn't take many pics initially, but here is a taste.

 

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I love my Trident, it's a great printer.

It is worth the time to obsess over the frame at this point. Makes things easier down the road. 

There is indeed an IDEX Trident in the works, the Tridex by eddietheengineer. He apparently brought it out last week to MRRF.

 

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Pretty productive day so far, installed my first heat set inserts and they came out pretty good, inserted like 3/4 of the way in and used a piece of aluminum stock to finish them flush. Was afraid I was going to mess those up but they came out pretty good. When assembling the bearing stacks I decided to print out a 5mm dowel to keep them aligned, ended up working out real well. Had a momentary relapse as I was trying to decide whether or not I needed to install the 3d printed endstop (it has a comment to take out a piece and replace with magnet if I'm using the hall effect endstop and I'm not) but after watching a few videos I noticed that piece needed to be installed regardless. Seems to be coming together pretty good, I'm now at the linear rail installation and trying to determine what grease to use. I have LDO rails and their clearning / lubricating instructions show what appears to be pretty thick grease with a syringe, but watching videos I also see them suing white lithium grease from a spray can, definitely not a grease pack if i go that route. Any thoughts?

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1 hour ago, jpregione said:

Pretty productive day so far, installed my first heat set inserts and they came out pretty good, inserted like 3/4 of the way in and used a piece of aluminum stock to finish them flush. Was afraid I was going to mess those up but they came out pretty good. When assembling the bearing stacks I decided to print out a 5mm dowel to keep them aligned, ended up working out real well. Had a momentary relapse as I was trying to decide whether or not I needed to install the 3d printed endstop (it has a comment to take out a piece and replace with magnet if I'm using the hall effect endstop and I'm not) but after watching a few videos I noticed that piece needed to be installed regardless. Seems to be coming together pretty good, I'm now at the linear rail installation and trying to determine what grease to use. I have LDO rails and their clearning / lubricating instructions show what appears to be pretty thick grease with a syringe, but watching videos I also see them suing white lithium grease from a spray can, definitely not a grease pack if i go that route. Any thoughts?

 

 

 

I noticed that a light Lithium based grease, Deoxit L260np, applied through a syringe seemed to make my LDO MGN7 linear rails a bit sluggish.  So, I diluted the grease with Deoxit light oil, which has its own syringe. As I recently had the X and Z carriages off, I checked and the linear rails still move nicely.  

Perhaps I should have tried  Superlube grease but that seems perhaps slightly more viscous so I opted for the Deoxit.  The Superlube works better on the larger Linear Bearings of the Prusa but these small rails seem tighter 

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One thing about the internet is too much information, most of it conflicting. It seems like a "consistent" answer is to use EP2 grease, so I just ordered a couple pre filled syringes to use. Guess I'll spend the next week going through all the printed parts, separating out for each section and installing heat set inserts so when I get the grease I can clean and install the rails and not waste any additional time looking through bags of printed parts.

 

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Ok, not sure if i'm losing it or not... working on assembling the x axis xy joints, right side went together fine but am thrown off on the left one. On the right side the bearing stack was the top 3d printed part had a hole with a flange that prevented the bolt from dropping through and is secured by a nut on the bottom of the joint. For the left hand joint the hole in the 3d printed part does not have a flange to prevent the bolt from dropping through. I've looked at stl files and it looks correct, unable to find assembly videos that show that level of detail. On the right xy joint i was able to snug this "stacked bearing bolt" down pretty good however I'm leary on how much i can tighten the left xy axis joint "stacked bearing bolt". 

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Boy it's been a fun day.... couple more potential issues... assembling the z end stop and the xy endstop board... first picture shows what I think is the correct pcb for the z end stop, however if you look at the housing there is a large gap between the printed part and the pccb connector. Does this look like the correct board and has anybody had this issue? Is the gap there so you can screw the pcb into the housing?

Second picture is what I believe to be the correct xy pccb board mount... first, the pcb mounting holes don't line up with the printed part, and it looks like maybe the pcb has one of the microswitches (the one on the end) installed incorrectly. Thoughts?

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Learning lots of things today, so many variants to this printer that one printed part kit does not fit all. Found some .stl files that I believe will work with my end stop pcb, printing them out now. Decided to start on the stealthburner and while assembling the clockwork 2 noticed that this gear rubs against the housing side if pushed all the way to the left. Does that mean I pushed the bearing in too far? Do I need to pull the bearing out  so when fully seated the gear won't rub on the housing? Was also wondering if a super thin washer between the gear and the housing would cause any issues.

 

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What revision motor plate is that? Yours looks like an older revision. I have beta-10 as the latest and I see several differences from your pictured part. Most significantly a raised shoulder surface in the center to address exactly that rubbing. Also the hole with the heat set insert there has moved to the left--that's I think the guidler pivot.

I think maybe you need to grab the latest CW2 files and reprint.

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Not sure what revision, ordered the printed part set a few weeks ago. Don't mind reprinting, have done a few this weekend but unfortunately the only filament i have is the accent color (KVP Purple), the main color filament is Zyltech black abs but I can't find any in stock 😞

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https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/tree/sb-beta/STLs/Clockwork2

Double check your files against the Github. There were several adjustments made to improve feeding, and they all go together.

Would any other black ABS work for you? I used Push Plastic for my primary color (in dark grey) and really like how it prints and the results. It looks like they have black in stock. https://www.pushplastic.com/products/abs-1kg

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thanks for the links, i'm disappointed that i ordered the printed parts like two weeks ago and the updated files are like three months old.. will definitely follow up on that. Also with respect to color I'm not sure if i can use another color, not really saavy on mixing different brand colors and how they match. but it looks like i have a lot of printing to do

 

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Oh that's right! I forgot you bought the printed parts. Any possibility of the vendor printing current CW2 parts for you? They really should be printing the latest if they are going to sell them.

You have a MK3s, right? It should be able to print up the parts no problem. The full CW2 would be two plates, one for each color. Just put a box over it for the print and you should be fine. I printed up my entire Trident on a stock Mini+ under a box.

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reached out to the vendor and they said they would look into it.. so fingers crossed. I did print out some replacement parts over the weekend for PCB on the MK3s and it worked fine... luckily I found some of the accent filament and ordered before I found these issues. Oh well, live and learn

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update... when I reached out to vendor that supplied my printed parts they were very apologetic and said their printing was reviewing the version of parts supplied to any updates, after a day or two told me they must have not updated their build plate but admitted the last revision (i think it was #68) was two months old so they should have caught it. I asked them if they could send me a summary of what version the newly supplied parts would be and I got some answer like "i'm not sure the entire list of parts but they are auditing everything and we will take care of you. Well fast forward to today, got my parts and I decided to do a spot check, sure enough the most obvious upgrade to the latest revision was aligning the tensioning screw with the pulleys on the idler... yep, parts weren't there. Needless to I'm not thrilled, lots of money and time wasted to get the printed parts and I still don't have an updated set. Now I will admit that the company told me "if you find anymore issues let us know and we will take care of you", but I shouldn't have to go piece by piece to determine (if possible) which parts are out of date. Before anyone asks why I don't print out my own parts it's because the color they used is not in stock anywhere... sigh. I guess on the bright side I have plenty of time to rewatch assembly videos and go through discord to learn what I will be able to do someday when I get the printed parts 🙂

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Gee! Guess it's better to know, but I share your frustration. It's a useful warning/reminder for the rest  of us to absolutely check the revision of any printings that we source (and probably avoid sellers who cannot definitively identify the exact revision of parts they are selling).  Thanks for sharing the pain!

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So last night I decided to start the CW2 assembly with the updated parts (luckily those were in the partial batch I received), everything appeared to have gone together ok, no rubbing on the side of the housing. As I reviewed the assembly I noticed the filament gear didn't line up perfectly with the hole, so I then flipped everything around and looked at the plastic gear alignment with the extruder motor gear.. and that seemed a little off, so I went back to check the filament gear alignment and that looked good... I'm like WTH. After many back and forth and multiple results i realized the whole driveshaft assembly has some play in it... i tilt it to the left and the filament gears line up perfectly but the extruder gear only aligns with approximately 1/2 of the motor gear, I flip it to the right and the plastic gears overlap with ~ 3/4 of the extruder motor gears but the filament gear doesn't line up with the hole!  So some questions I have... should the whole driveshaft assembly have side to side play in the bearings? Does this help automatic alignment of the filament gears with the filament? Also, how much "overlap" should the plastic gear have with the extruder motor gear? Is ~ 1/2 of the gears making contact acceptable? If not the only way I can see to get the best of both worlds filament gear alignment with whole and additional plastic gear / extruder gear overlap) is to move the filament gear out slightly on the shaft. Thoughts?

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Another day, another fun time. Decided to put my linear rails on, started with 2... cleaned them per manufacture guidelines (soak entire assembly in ipa), let air dry and repack great through one of the rail holes... wtf did I do? Had a heck of a time getting a nice smooth glide after all this and one of the rails has a "spot" where the carriage catches, as shown in the video. Thoughts? 

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35 minutes ago, jpregione said:

Guess I'm done for the day, put on 4 of the 5 linear rails, the other must has some type of defect because there is one section of the rail that has a rough spot / resistance. Will be getting a replacement one hopefully this week. 

The pain of linear rails. Seems you have done all as per the book. Sometimes it just takes a bit of effort to get the grease into the ball bearings. Best to feed the grease with a blunt tip needle attached too a syringe and feed it through the grease port if your rails has one. Else it is just time and patience. 

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2 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

The pain of linear rails. Seems you have done all as per the book. Sometimes it just takes a bit of effort to get the grease into the ball bearings. Best to feed the grease with a blunt tip needle attached too a syringe and feed it through the grease port if your rails has one. Else it is just time and patience. 

Yeah I ended up using a syringe with EP2 in it, dispensed into the gap between the rail / carriage and smooshed it in.. slid the carriage around a bit and repeated. Not sure if that is as good as dispensing into the carriage via one of the railing holes until it oozes out or not. 

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