Project 24: Voron 2.4 300mm 'Knuba 3Dubba' - Siboor Aug 2023 Cartographer Kit

[Manux]

First round of calibration

I'm quite happy with these results. Did Elis Guide and the Calibration prints from Orcaslicer.

Still to go Input Shaper and VFAs testprints. 

There is some buildup of filament on the cube but im not sure where it could be from. TOP looks marvelous.

I also did the MAX Flow test and the Dragon HF Hotend with a result of 20 with a CHT Nozzle. 

Here are some pics, This is more voron like

[Manux]

Found the Source of the Blobs

I found the source of the blobs nozzle was not tightened enough...

Fixed it up and no redoing Carthographer Calibration

[Manux]

BlazeCut fire supression

I mounted the Blazecut fire suppression tube near the mains with the Omron relay, PSU main and Octopuss mains. I think that a good location.

I secured it with a zip tie to another zip tie that is mounted on the PSU.

Hope i never need it!

[Manux]

Hotend Serviceability

Others will know it but i had to service the Hotend, because i did not tighten the nozzle fully. 

The SB Hotend is quite easy to service, 6 screws its all it took i would say that is Prusa MK3/MK4 level of servicing.

In the end nothing was wrong the problem is with the Dragon HF Hotend. The opening is not like a funnel but just a hole. So the filament has difficulty entering. I should have used a drill to make it better but i could not be bothered this time..

If you are reading this before building make sure to drill the hole a bit of the heatsink tower to have easier filament loading.

[Manux]

Printer notifications

While i was tuneing my filament loading and unloading macro it became apparent that i needed a beep sound to notify me to load the filament or remove it.

While i was looking for that i discovered something amazing! Siboor did not just include a beeper in the kit. Its a (cheap) full blown speaker.

This allows me to do stuff like this:

 

To get that do the following:

#!/bin/bash
# Play startup sound after Klipper startup

sleep 5
aplay -D plughw:0,0 /home/biqu/printer_data/sound/klipper_start.wav

Save as:

/usr/local/bin/klipper-start-sound.sh

Make executable:

sudo chmod +x /usr/local/bin/klipper-start-sound.sh

Then create a systemd override:

sudo systemctl edit klipper

Add:

[Service]
ExecStartPost=/usr/local/bin/klipper-start-sound.sh

 

But  better yet with kaiuh.sh i was able to install Gcode Commands and now i can send voice notifications when certain events happen.

What kind of wav do you need:

 

1.4 Second Silence Before Speech so speaker can wake up (did i mention its a cheap one...)

WAVE audio, Microsoft WAV, Signed 16 bit PCM, mono 48000 Hz

install G-Code-Extension to execute commands:

~/kiauh/kiauh.sh -> Press this: E , 1 , 1 N

 

Now your gcode Macros can do sounds like this:

[gcode_shell_command sound_primeing_cmd]
command: aplay -D plughw:0,0 /home/biqu/printer_data/sound/Primeing.wav
timeout: 5.
verbose: True

[gcode_macro SOUND_PRIMEING]
gcode:
    RUN_SHELL_COMMAND CMD=sound_primeing_cmd

 

Here is my macro config and some of the wav files (you can use your LMM of choice of course... just make sure to add 1.5 second silence at the start)

my_gcodes_sound.cfg

 

 

Happy Printing...

 

 

 

 

 

[Manux]

More Calibration

I found these helpful for more calibration of my Sunlu PETG filament:

https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/calibration_guide (Check out the whole playlist..)

 

Edited 23 hours ago by Manux

[Manux]

Speed gains

Here is my old Prusa MK 3.5 vs the Siboor:

Prusa:

Siboor:

A solid improvment!

 Same model and Infill of course. 

Edited May 23 by Manux

[Manux]

Tolerances

The tolerances are fucking amazing! This just fits.

On my Prusa i had 0.1 to 0.2 depending on filament which meant i had to calculate this into my designs from the start.

This is just amazing

[Manux]

Side Panels

I mounted the side panels with Annex clips. I use 3.5mm Annex clips for 3mm panel and 1mm soft strip.

Sadly Siboor delivered strip was not long enough.. But i had some tape laying around...

 

[Manux]

LED Show

I installed 

https://github.com/julianschill/klipper-led_effect/tree/master

Works like a charm.

Here is my print start macro:

- Has my SOUND Macros in it from above.

- LED Macros

- "Better" purge line...

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
  SOUND_PRINT_SEQUENCE_INITIATED
  G4 P2000 
  
  STATUS_READY
  {% set target_bed = params.BED|int %}                  # Target bed temperature
  {% set x_wait = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x|float / 2 %}  # Bed center X
  {% set y_wait = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y|float / 2 %}  # Bed center Y
  
  SOUND_HOME_ALL_AXIES
  SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=0                                   # Reset Z offset
  
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Home all axes"
  STATUS_HOMING
  G28                                                    # Home all axes
  
  G90                                                    # Set to absolute positioning
  SOUND_HEATING_NOZZLE
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Heat nozzle to soften filament leftovers..."
  M104 S150 ; Heat nozzle to soften filament leftovers
  STATUS_HEATING
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Heating Bed: {target_bed}°C"     # Display bed heating message
  G1 X{x_wait} Y{y_wait} Z15 F9000                       # Move to bed center
  SOUND_HEATING_BED
  M190 S{target_bed}                                     # Wait for bed to reach target temperature
  
  M109 S150 ; Ensure nozzle is at 150C, in case it was hot when print started.
  SOUND_BED_LEVELING_STARTED
  STATUS_LEVELING
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Leveling..."                    # Display leveling message
  QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL                                         # Perform Z tilt adjustment
  G28 Z                                                  # Re-home Z after adjustment
  
  # Allow Cartographer stabilization
  G4 P2000
  
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Cartographer Touch HOME" 
  SOUND_CALIBRATING_Z_OFFSETT
  STATUS_CALIBRATING_Z
  CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH_HOME ; Home for real Z0
  SOUND_ADAPTIVE_MESH_STARTED
  STATUS_MESHING
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Bed Mesh Calibration"            # Display mesh calibration message
  # Allow CAN stabilization
  G4 P2000
#  BED_MESH_CALIBRATE                                     # Perform bed mesh calibration
  BED_MESH_CLEAR
  G4 P500
  BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 ADAPTIVE_MARGIN=5
    
#  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Calibrating Z Offset"            # Display Z offset calibration message
 # CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH                                     # Calibrate Z offset
  SOUND_BED_LEVELING_COMPLETE
  STATUS_READY
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Heating Nozzle: {target_extruder}°C" # Display nozzle heating message
  G1 X{x_wait} Y{y_wait} Z15 F9000                       # Move to bed center
  SOUND_HEATING_NOZZLE
  STATUS_HEATING
  {% set target_extruder = params.EXTRUDER|int %}        # Target nozzle temperature
  M109 S{target_extruder}                                # Heat nozzle to target temperature

  SOUND_EXTRUDER_PRIMING
  STATUS_CLEANING
  SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Preparing to Print..."           # Display preparation message
  G0 X{x_wait - 50} Y4 F10000                            # Move to primeline start point
  G0 Z0.4                                                # Raise Z to 0.4mm
  G91                                                    # Switch to relative positioning
  G1 X120 E25 F1000                                      # Extrude primeline

  # Small Voron-style V wipe/purge
  # Functional purpose:  
  # - stabilizes pressure advance
  # - changes extrusion direction
  # - wipes nozzle tip
  # - catches remaining ooze/blob

  PRIME_NOZZLE

  SOUND_PRINT_STARTED
  STATUS_BUSY

Video:

 

 

 

[Manux]

Reliability

I printed 43 STL so far mostly voron Test cubes. The quality is there. But i fucked um some slicer settings so it does not look like it could so im not sharing right now but i seen enough to say its the best print quality i ever seen. Its on par with Prusa MK4. With more tuning time it could surpass this as well i think. And this with 50% print time than the Prusa MK3.5s.

Of those 43 STLs/Prints i did not start at two or three times with Communication error while Bed Leveling. I Hope i mitigated this with some Gcode tricks. We will see.

One time it did layer shift but that was my fault. 

All in all I'm quite happy with the reliability i had ti tinker way worse with my Prusa MK3.5s to get it to the workhorse it is right now.

 

Edited May 25 by Manux

[Manux]

Blazecut 2 installed

Second one installed on top of chamber. I used hot glue to seal the holes.

[Manux]

Octoprint Everywhere

I setup octoprint everywhere as it is free and has AI print failure detection. I quite like it as it is also working together with Mobileraker and i can watch my prints on the go with this.

[Manux]

More Sensors

I has two sendors laying around from my prusa modding so i used them on the voron. One near the intake fans for room temp and the other on the blasecut tube to messure heat in the electronics bay.

I used the standard octopus thermistor plugs for it.

Room temp sensor suspended in the intake air flow.

Plugged in to the octopuss board.

[Manux]

Camera

At the moment i'm working on a cam mod for the Logitech 920 mount.

I want it on the front 2020 extrusion and i got a holder jerry rigged but i will post more when i get there....

 

- 

I used this design from Crambambuli as a base: https://www.printables.com/model/86224-voron-v24-3003-c920-gantry-2020-mount

For the internal mount, and then remade some annex clips into a holder. Now i get a good Cam picture.

Here are the STL Files:

Snap-Fit_test_key_v1.stl

Snap-Fit_test_part_cam_v7.stl

Snap-Fit_test_part_holder_v6.stl

Snap-Fit_test_part_extrusion_v2.stl

Use PETG and tree support. Also you dont need glue but of course u can..

Edited 23 hours ago by Manux

[Manux]

PSU Cover

Modified it slightly so it would work with my zip ties to still cover the mains.

 

Edited 23 hours ago by Manux

[Manux]

Better fan on the SB2209

As you know i added a 25mm fan on the Galileo 2 Extruder Cover to cool the SB board. It did its job an kept it around 50 degrees but i wired it to the Probe Connector pins, 5v and Gnd. So it was always on when the printer is powerd up not just printing. Which was annoying to me.

I looked around and there is not too many info but you can Jumper the SB2209 so it uses a 24v FAN on the Induction Probe Connector (not the normal one!).

The clue is to wire Ground to the GPIO PIN and VIN onto VIN. Then you can control it with printer.cfg.

I used a 30mm, 24v fan for this.

More info here: https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/1flee2k/adding_a_fan_to_sb2209/?share_id=Zm7BeqQqyEJTyR3HGms30&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_source=share&utm_term=20

You have to jumper the SBBoard tho like this (to FAN):

- Warning the jumper is very very tiny

Also i had to crimp some wires from the 24v fan:

End result:

 

Printer.cfg:

#####################################################################
# SB2209 auxiliary board cooling fan on GPIO6 (IND/CNC header)
#
# Wiring:
#   Red  -> VIN (+24V)
#   Black -> GPIO6 (switched ground)
#
# Control:
#   SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=sb2209_cooling SPEED=1.0
#####################################################################

[heater_fan EBB_SB2209_Fan]
pin: EBBCan:gpio6
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.10
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50.0

 

Now it only turns on when the hotend is running and it keeps it crispy cool at 30 degrees...

 

Edited 23 hours ago by Manux