Project 24: Voron 2.4 300mm 'Knuba 3Dubba' - Siboor Aug 2023 Cartographer Kit

[Manux]

 

Welcome to my Build Diary and Problem solving thread

The Machine
-> Will be done when i'm finished

Background

Why Voron?

I'm into 3D printing for a long time now nearly 10 years. I like the thinkering and building much more than the 3D printing to be honest. Recently i moved to a new house. Got more space. So i thought lets build a Voron, i mean you know how it goes... I built a few printers before. Mostly Prusa tho.

Why Siboor kit ?

I wanted to go with a Kit for starters. So there is only Formbot or Siboor if you dont want to pay LDO Premium... Sadly Magic Phoenix seems to be out of commission (the guy running it is very sick). While Formbot is a household name, their Kit has a lot of stuff that just looks good and does not work relay well. For example the Filament Sensors, I experimented with that kind of Sensor in my beginnings and it just does not work reliably. Also a metal brush is outdated with a electrical sensor. And some stuff like Bakelite is just a gimmick.  After all it came down to: Do i want to do the slow TAP or the faster Cartographer. Also i read a few times on reddit, that the quality of Siboor has improved in the last 2 years or so. So i was open to them.

Siboor tries to ship a finished product in pieces. So all the firmware is in place. They have an actual manual (Looking at you Formbot....), they have a github with pictures of the stuff they changed. So way better than formbot.

Then i hopped on their Discord (which has more members than the Formbot one) and talked to a few people there. They all seemd to be happy with their build. Most Problems that popped up there i could attribute to: not enough Linux knowledge, don't reading the manual, don't reading other stuff besides the manual. So I would guess that 40% of those problems would fit in that category. The other ones the community there is happy to help. Felt there is a good vibe. Even Siboor has 2 tech employees monitor the discord and you can ask them for help if need be but the response time to china is like half a day. But they are somewhat eager to help as well. Some people their talked to me about their build experience and it was good to very good, depending on the knowlege of the person about Linux,electrics and so on. No major issues like burned out PSUs or something or general Build trouble.

Then i found some scarce reviews of their newer Kits on the Web. Basically all said its at least an OK or better Kit. Then i found some really helpful videos on youtube about their 2023 Aug kit. This guy received his kit in the beginning of 2024, is an electrical engineer or something at least someone with knowledge about that stuff and he generally gave Siboor a good rating with their electronics. This was important for me. Fire safety and all that..

Then finally i found a few post of people actually printing stuff and taking good photos. The quality was very good. I know i know but somehow people seem to be reluctant to post pictures of their prints in the voron community to judge the quality of the machnies/kits... I will flood this thread with them to alleviate this problem a bit.... I find it a great help to look at the actual print quality. I know this depends on a lot of factors but for me if they are good at least i can rule out bad part quality as an issue because no amount of tuneing can hide those flaws.

This sealed the deal for me. Other Problems like a missing resistor on the SB Board are present in Formbot and in Siboor i imagine. So this not the fault of their Kit. Nonetheless i looked for a few issues i would encounter during build and ai found some but as i said, mostly hardware related from BBT or general Issue (el. static in the boden tube...)

So anyway i just ordered my Kit today.

The Project is named 24 because i intend to finish this in 2024. I have very little free time and this serves as constant reminder for me to get on with it.

Thanks to @indi8six for his Project 7000 Build this is very detailed and helped me even now in the beginning stages. You can read it here:

Additions/Mods:
As i dived into the Voron cosmos is became clear that there where some Mods i wanted to do right away because it is apparent to me that this will help with the build quality and easy of use. I opted to do those right away and not wait and there the printer apart later.

So here is my main mod list to start with:

- AB_PinMod
- Annex_Pannel_Clips
- BeefyIdlers
- Galileo2Extruder
- KlipperExpander 
- TheFilter
- VEFACH
- Z_Holder_GE5C
- Z_Umbilical
- Extrusion Backers (steel)
- Rubber Nozzle wiper
- Disco on a Stick
- Fan Failure detection board
- Fire Suppression System from Blazecut
 

Status of this Build Diary (1.09.24):

- Started building....

Edited November 4 by Manux

[Manux]

The Build

 

• Siboor Voron 2.4r2 Kit Aug 2023 - https://www.siboor.com/product/siboor-voron2-4-upgrade-dragon-corexy-3d-printer-350mm-fdm-diy-full-set-wifi-control/
• Blazecut Fire supression - https://www.3dupfitters.com/products/blazecut-fire-suppression-system
• Omron SSR - https://meltbro.de/original-omron-g3nb-210b-1-dc5-24v-solid-state-relais-ssr-fuer-voron-2-4-v01-trident.html
• BTT PI2 - https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-pi-2-cb2
• Fan Failure Detection Board - https://github.com/rogerlz/klipper_fan_stall_detector
• Galileo 2 Extruder - https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/galileo2_extruder
• Klipper Expander - https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Klipper_Expander
• THE FILTER carbon filter - https://github.com/nateb16/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/nateb16/THE_FILTER
• VEFACH carbon/HEPA exhaust - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/KevinAkaSam/VEFACH
• Steel Y/X Extrusions Backers - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/whoppingpochard/extrusion_backers
• Disco Stick LEDs lighting - https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Daylight
• Beefy Z-Idlers (BZI) - https://github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main
• Beefy Front Idlers (BFI) - https://github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main
• Annex Clips - https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods/tree/main/Printers/All_Printers/annex_dev-Panel_2020_Clips_and_Hinges
• Hartk Pins Mod - https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2-Trident/2.4/Voron2.4_Trident_Pins_Mod
• Hartk GE5C Mod - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/hartk1213/Voron2.4_GE5C
• Z-Umbilical - https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2-Trident/2.4/Voron2.4_Z_Umbilical
• Hex Skirts - https://www.printables.com/model/474406-voron-24-skirts-with-hex-infill-250-300-and-350mm-
• 40mm Raspberry Pi Fan - https://www.printables.com/model/186627-raspberry-pi-40mm-fan-mount
• Silicone Nozzle Scrubber - https://www.printables.com/de/model/659369-voron-24-purge-bucket-silicon-brush-wiper
• Bed Wagos (6x 221-412) - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/deepfriedheroin/v2_bed_wagos
• Flex Plate M5 Stops - https://www.printables.com/model/411428-voron-24-flex-plate-stops/remixes
• Thermistors on Gantry and Top Chamber - https://www.printables.com/model/410596-voron-chamber-thermistor-mount-2020-extrusion
• 90 degree adapter for HDMI + USBC - better visuals - you can find them easily on amazon.
• Better TMC Cooling - https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-17426-Copper-Heatsinks-10x10mm/dp/B077VL3M2Z/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3P6I4RTNKORFQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.03_gKg9llclz1t_GwkHndAtpcND0b3OVkxjPV1cEuYxEMI4HG0ky4_QZCvoQM2kBKyQL616NUsOWvh1ITAjeDOGAstsbJY-UqDUAzbfGkyn9uSmiR9mFZfi0nBw_WBiGljAuePmYmgXSlX2xme63IRA7Fi89dI3xFsNTtmSNmdBcgvdFM0BNCCicgwgPsE8pS-k9cP-Em4h4UpKvZA5jP8qvluID5j05iZlzJDff6jg.A2ry3KghGnfyWrQ1lfq5tvhGYLIP5yCvWPuGERjyWF4&dib_tag=se&keywords=copper+heatsink+6x6x5mm&qid=1722783935&sprefix=copper+heatsind%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-6

Mods for later:

• Voron Sturdy Handles - https://www.printables.com/model/793387-voron-24r2trident-sturdy-handler-remix
• Roll Back Stands - https://www.printables.com/model/408015-voron-rollback-stands
• Bento Box - (addision/replacement of The FILTER ?) https://www.printables.com/model/272525-bentobox-v20-carbon-filter-for-bambu-lab-x1c-enclo
• Fridge Door Mod - https://3do.eu/frame-kits/1371-voron-v2-clicky-clack-door-kit-by-ldo.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqejsR5EGC9iwVpx_ThZuJpA3BXOvZ0XD-PdZjne0e3N2rJkYuX
• Hula Feet - https://www.printables.com/model/898357-hula-v10-for-voron-printers

I copied some of @indi8six list. Thanks!

This is still "beta" as the build is not finished yet.

 

Edited September 14 by Manux

[Manux]

Cost

LDO costs 1600 Euros. So this was my max Limit, for a Printer. Prusa costs 900 so Siboor with 1000 Euros was just as good for a start.

My Mods listed above plus some crimpers, heat shrink etc i came to 1600. Fire Suppression will also add to the costs, but im not counting this in the "normal" printer costs.

Preparation work / Parts

Unlike Formbot, Siboor does provide all STL you need for a standard Build. So just clone the Github, print all Parts, order the kit and be a happy camper. As i was looking into Formbot, it was very frustrating to have to sort trough the official parts and then looks for a "Formbot" replacement. Siboor is much better organized.

However as i want to include mods right away. I restored to a calc sheet to help my confusion get worse ahh better i mean.

Teal Colors = Original Siboor Parts

Light Orange = Mods that replace Siboor Parts

Blue = Parts that are enhanched with mods, still needed to print.

Orange = Tools

Green = Pure Mods.

Full File is also attached.Siboor Voron 2.4 R2 Aug Kit Printed Parts List.ods

 

 

 

Edited September 1 by Manux

[Manux]

The Siboor Voron 2.4r2 2023 Aug Kit

Will Post some pics of the Kit here when it arrives in 2 weeks time or so... Stay tuned -)

So my KIT Arrived yesterday ;.) So About 2 Weeks of delivery time from china. UPS was used as carrier wich is ok i guess but they have an awful website.

General impression

The quality is very good! All the shafts are made with a cutout. All extrusions are precisely cut and the tappings for the screws are excellent. Most of the electronics now come pre crimped. The crimps itself are also good. No more meter long chinese red cable to cut and crimp everything yourself. Also the colors of the cables are more western. Like brown and blue and yellow and so on.

I was not hopeing for this. Also the Motors now dont have the same long wires but only shorter ones and you attach fitting cables to those. There is a connector pre made. So just plug and play.

Before i ordered the Kit i saw some pics from feb this year. The quality has deftly improved like with the motors and western cables pre crimped.

For example now the ship with poly-carbonate panels.

Also now its two packages instead of one fucking heavy one. Its much better in two one is 15kg and the other around 10kg.

There are some pics of the kit.

Everything is nicely packed.

Cutouts on shafts are there and cables are crimped.

PC Pannels

Surprises

(Good ones)

MOST (not all!) Cables are now pre crimped with western colors. The crimps itself seem to have improved in quality. There was a youtube video 6 months back where some crimps where off. I could not find this yet. (But i did not check all cables at the moment.)

The MeanWell PSU is genuine. I checked the serial with their customer support. So thats a relive for safety.

The SSR is some Chinese brand. I will switch those out for a Omron SSR.

No foam tape that has this yellow paper. The Formbot guys cringe over that stuff.

My dad is a mechanical design engineer and he said that the pullys and rails etc are all very well made. He was impressed with the quality of the mechanical parts.

Open Questions from me

I found another tape there maybe 1mm from 3m. Smaller roll. What is it for ?

Thanks guys

 

Edited September 14 by Manux

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, Manux said:

The Siboor Voron 2.4r2 2023 Aug Kit

Will Post some pics of the Kit here when it arrives in 2 weeks time or so... Stay tuned -)

Certainly will stay tuned - looking forward to your build!

[Manux]

Sourcing of the Parts

I just thought after my pics of my kit it just say a few words for sourceing stuff.

I did not want to need like 10 different shops for all my mods and the kit obviously. More importantly i dont want to deal with import tariffs and that crap.

So here are my main picks of shops if you are in  Europe:

- lab4450.com - Portugal

-> Carries some unique Items like Parts for the AB Pin Mod, Xol Toolhead printed parts, Fan Failure board etc. Its a nice little shop.

- Meltbro.de - Germany

-> Carries the YX Steel Backers, Galileo Extruder (Was sold out on lab440.com), Rail grease in small amount already packed into syringes. Orginal Omron SSR.

- Bambulabs.eu

-> Carries the silicone nozzle Wiper. Realy only reason why i would buy there. You need to make an Account sadly.

- Blazecut

-> To get the fire suppression system (Gastube that rips open at 105 degrees. Dump and reliable) you have to write the slovakian office an Email (Link in there Contact form) and explain that its difficult to source so they will make you an offer. You need to supply the volume of your chamber and your adress. I even went so far to buy a second tube for the exlectical compartment. Extra Cost not in the printer 230 Euros.

- Etsy - 3DConceptAuvergne

-> Ony guy carrying the GE5C Mod parts. Did not want to by them in bulk and have to much spares...

- Aliexress

-> The only shop i could find with pogo connectors for THE Filter. Attention: you have to get the 10mm version of the connectors. the holes in the FILTER pices are to small for langer ones! Also the brackets for the extrusions have larger holes... yeah go figure. So you need the adpater from Project 7000.

-  Amazon

-> The rest i got from amazon. We talking fans for the pi clone, better heatsinks, iso alcohol, bags to label my printed parts, Stuff to label cables. Firealarm, Crimpers and so on.Stuff like that.

Thats it folks. If i need more stuff i probly going to look an amazon first. But im thinking of a e3d revo for fire safety but this will be an upgrade for another month when the printer runs smooth...

Plastic Parts

I print my parts and the parts for the mods on my Prusa MK3s.

I print in Polymaker ASA. Works very well.

I label everything so i dont get confused.

 

 

Edited September 14 by Manux

[Manux]

The Frame

In good two hours me and my dad assembled the frame. The Voron manual was very good.

The extrusions are all precisely cut and i checked all the diagonal lengths. It seems to me square. (My table on the other hand is not!)

We tested this on the big ass floor tile like so:

There was no wobbling and the meeting points feel flush. I find that with you fingers its sometimes more precise that with a ruler and so on.

As the extrusions so well cut, we figured it should itself align to be squarish.

Every screw got loctite in it. Should set over night and be fixed tomorrow.

Surprises

Even the triangular pieces to hold the two extrusions for the bed are made out of aluminium.

The paint seems to be ok. Does not come off to easy but a metal alignment cross is to much

The DIN Rails are not cut evely so one hole is always not showing up. You can fix is easly with a drill but it was bugging me.

 

Edited September 15 by Manux

[Manux]

Z Drive

I started on the z drives. So far it went smooth i think. A bit of confusion arose as the assembly was shifting in the printed parts. Because it said you had to mount the pully 33mm on one side. It turns out it then can move inside the part. I think the other pics clear this up as they all put everything close together but it was a head scratcher for a moment.

I'm a bit worried because on my prusa i could not print those big parts warp free. So there is a little warping on the big block parts. But i think the Voron team did a good job at not useing this side on purpose i assume to not complicate things if you have warping like i did.

Heat Inserts

Never done one before. After the second one i got the hang of it.

I read somewhere that its good to use a soldering iron with temps. Luckily i have one of those. 260 degrees is the sweet spot. Also a good tip is to melt the part like 97% of the height of the part in. Then switch from soldering iron to a flat iron block or square to press the rest flat in. Works like a charm.

Be careful the inserts are hot!

Finished Z-Drives

Here are the finished drives. Manual worked very well. The motors have very short cables and im wondering where we get the longer ones to connect to the Octopus Pro.

What i find is that the black feet are just a smidge to high so your 16mm screw does not catch. Sandpaper to the rescue. We sanded them down one or two millimeter and then they catched on. They are a beauty to look at and an engineering marvel. Cool stuff.

Edited September 15 by Manux

[Manux]

Linear Rails and Heatbed

As i'm still waiting on my package from Lab4450 for the PINS mod i could not do the Z Idlers yet so i did the linar rails today.

Cleaning i just submersed them in 99% ISO Alcohol and for the night and made sure to move the rails to get the oil out a few times. This worked very well.

I regreased the rails with the grease i bought from meltbro. It comes in a syringe that fits 99% onto the rail holes in the hiwin railes. You have to apply some pressure to make the seal tight but then the grease goes into the bearings no problem.

Now most of them are so well lubed the own weight of the carriage does let it slide down. Only the X Axis is not so cooperative but i think its just thicker and it rolls very well as well.

Mounting the rails was easy with the mounts. Only a 3mm piece i need to invent to make the gap on the bottom.

Surprises

Some 5mm T-Nuts seem to have found its way into the 3mm T-nut bag. This was unfortunate so you have to check your T-nuts!

Heatbed

All the holes are pre drilled on the bed. This is very good. It also seems very flat.

The magnet bed comes with cutouts which is very good. I would not have manged it that clean.  With the video Tutorial from github it was very easy to do the Magnet bed and the heater mat.

Tip for application: Remove 3cm of film from the glue side. Then allign the magnet bed and start from the side with the protection still on. This way you can make sure that the whole bed is alligned. Then proceed from the now glues on side to glue the rest of the bed and heater mat.

The heater mat seems to be well made. No excess glue or dodggy edges or funky wireing on the glued side.  After glueing put some books on the bed and i let it rest for the night.

Edited October 6 by Manux

[PFarm]

Nicely done! It's a great detailed build.

[Manux]

Sadly im sick at the moment but the build is not abandoned. I was fixing up the FILTER but when its ready i'm am ok again  i share more. My guess would be 2 weeks or so.

Best

[PFarm]

Get well and looking forward to your build progress.

[Manux]

THE FILTER (Part 1)

So i was able to finish THE FILTER.

Went OK for the most part. Important to note is, you need to buy the 10mm round pogo connectors (I could only find them on aliexpress).

The holes in the trays with the fans are so small the 10mm versions fit snuggly. On the other hand, the holders for the other side of the connectors are to wide. You have to print this adapter piece: https://www.printables.com/model/828686-the-filter-10mm-pogo-adapter

To be honest im not sure how this came to be. The Holder pieces for the connetors are clearly to wide so im not sure how the Creator could make use of those. Nonetheless with the adapter piece it works fine.

Another thing to note is that i had to file down the holders on the top side of the trays as it is verydifficult to put the lid on with the edge not filled down in a ^ shape.

Snuggle Fit on the printed pieces. I had to scrape some away to fit it.  Installing a fan. I bought some cheap fans for this as its not a critical part.

Occasionally i had to use hot glue to glue he pogo conector on place so it does not get pulled by the magnet. Other times the adapter piece did the trick.

Had to use some hot glue on the larger piece with 2 fans as the magnet would pull it out.

Some challenging soldering was the connector side as the magnet was pulled to the soldering iron and it has tiny connectors. Also i opted to use thicker wires its overkill but that is what i had on hand and margin for safety never hurt anyone.

I will mount the filter in Part two. I need to get an understanding of the wireing for the heatbed and how this will go together with THE FILTER.

Edited October 6 by Manux

[Manux]

Electronics (Part 1)

I just used the time while i was sick to glue the heatsinks to the electronics. These copper heatsinks are much better than the aluminum ones. But the big one on the btt pi will work ok i guess.

Im not sure if this is he right place to glue the heatsinks. There are surely other places on the board that gets hot as well but i could nohing find online to see there other people put their hearsinks...

BTT Pi with heatsink.

 

[PFarm]

It's nice to see you're back on the project!

[Manux]

Beefy Z Idlers

I was able to finish the Z Idlers.

It was quite easy. There is no manual for the Beefy Z Idlers but the pictures on the github are enough for the Z Idlers.

Luckily while i was sick the package from LAB4450 arrived and all parts for the Z idlers where now in place.

One thing to note: The pins from the LAB4450 are not anti-rust. So there was some small black spots on the pins i assume this is rust but i'm not sure.

The pins fit very very tight into the Idlers. I had to use a hammer to hammer the pin trough with light force. But they spin quite freely but not for long. But i think its not that important as the z axis does not move so fast. And the ball bearings inside still move free.

I had to remove the brim on the idlers in the middle they where touching the idlers ever so slightly. But these Idlers where made for the screw version but there is no pin only version of this. The idlers move from left to right but with the screws it would do the same so i thinkt it is fine ?

Some angry idlers. I screwed the idlers in till the sit flush with the  nuts. It was like 4-5 turns per screw. I hope they are evenly screwed but i think it would not matter that much as the screw would be not much.

Mounted on the Frame:

It feels like they are not in line with the z motor idlers but i need to check again.

[Manux]

10 minutes ago, PFarm said:

It's nice to see you're back on the project!

Thanks PFarm its nice to get going again

[Make maker]

Thanks  Manus, it is very valuable for reference.Believe in your choice. I am going to buy a new voron kit from siboor. Looking forward to get it ！！！

[Manux]

Hi Make maker,

Thanks yes i see it like you. There are not many Siboor Kit reports around but the quality is very good. I think its a good choice the parts seem all good quality.

At the moment I'm still a bit sickly but I'm building the FILTER. I ordered some more M3 nuts because i need some for my MODS. I'm not sure there are enough spares.

As far as i'm now in the KIT i would recommend it.

[Manux]

Hi guys here is THE FILTER

I manged to finish the gantry and the The Filter Mod.

Important to note that the fan bays are not even. The smaller ones are more inside the printer but just 0.5cm or so its not that much.

I tried to show this with the ruler here:

Here i had to use some hot glue to fix the wires in place inside the brakets.

Here is the electrical setup before doing the bed:

It was quite challangeing to do this as this as the bed needs to be on top to see where the mounting of the fan bays should be but then you cant reach the fan bay as the bed is on top. I manged but it was not that easy

 

 

[Manux]

The Bed

Was only able to do this with the printed tools as its very hard to measure 38mm to the bed edge as it is floating.

Remember to only tighten one screw down.

Originally only with the smaller versions but later i made them bigger which helps a ton with alignment!

With the bed it now looks like a real printer

[Manux]

BACKER mod

This is the backer mod.

Tipps for installation: Install the nuts in the steel backer with the screws outside. Then slide the whole thing inside the extrusion. Then tighten down.

Be careful the srews are easily destroyed as the material is not the best.

Screws and nuts came with the steel backers from my supplier Meltbro.

[Manux]

Front Idlers

These are the beefy Front Idlers not the original ones. There is a manual as PDF on how to do them. It was an ok step for me. I installed them on the outside first but then it gets clear that it the wrong way.

My supplier did provide the Pins and all the tings that are needed additionally to the normal parts. I worry a bit as they are not the same height. So one side is higher than the other. I think it could be correct but i think this gets only clear when i try to run the belts.

 

[Manux]

A/B Motors and Extrusion

These use the Pinned version. Here its a bit hard to figure out how to do it as the official manual has only the screw version and on the pinned one there is one hole missing. I manged to do it while looking at the orientation of the part itself.

Very bad was the alignment with the extrusion. There is NO stop for the extrusion so you can push it in more or not so much. This should be fixed in future versions. I'm not sure i got the correct lengh. What i ended up with i pushed the extrusion inside till the little end of the nub for guidance was flush with the extrusion. I hope its the correct lengh but im not sure. As i said furture iterations of the printer should make this clear.

@PFarm Any idea about this ? How much is too much inside of the plastic part ?

 

[Manux]

Gantry

To finish the gantry i just screwed the parts together. Extrusions flush with the plastic parts.

Finished it looks like this:

Was quite pleased at that point with me