Project 24: Voron 2.4 300mm 'Knuba 3Dubba' - Siboor Aug 2023 Cartographer Kit

[PFarm]

14 minutes ago, Manux said:

To be honest it's been so long since I've done this mod I don't remember sorry! Maybe @mvdveer can help with this?

@PFarm Any idea about this ? How much is too much inside of the plastic part ?

 

[Manux]

X-Axis

Was also easy. Here there is again the problem with the pinned version. That is very hard to spot as there is a hole missing on the part because of the pin. Look as the part orientation. I figured it out quite quickly but it was a bit of a head scratcher. What helps is that the first two screws in the manual are now pins. If you use the PIN Mod of course

Finished it looks something like this:

The tolerances are quite tight but its ok.

See you later So far its a very fun build and i ha not a single phase where i needed a day or so to troubleshoot.

[Manux]

2 minutes ago, PFarm said:

18 minutes ago, Manux said:

To be honest it's been so long since I've done this mod I don't remember sorry! Maybe @mvdveer can help with this?

@PFarm Any idea about this ? How much is too much inside of the plastic part ?

Expand  

No worries. Its an easy fix if it should give me grief with the gantry racking later on.

[Manux]

Belting A/B

This as a scary part for me because everybody is fretting about perfect belt lengh to the teeth but no one explains exactly why..

Anyhow i did lengh the belt to spec so to speak.

A/B Belts:

just half the Belt. It should be nearly equal in length now.  If you halved the belt, then lay it on a flat table and make sue you start with the pre cut ends. Then align the pre cut parts teeth by teeth and tape them down with duct tape.

Not just follow the belts to the end end then use a scalpel knive to cut them to exact teeth length.

Z Belts

Same thing, half them. Then half every one of the two. Align all 4 on a table and see which is the shortest in teeth. Now cut all other ones till the as short as the shortest one. Again align the teeth first and tape it down.

Siboor belt leghts:

With a 300 Voron i got around 10cm excess belt on all belts. While not excessive its enough to pull them by hand and or pliers.

Edited December 21, 2024 by Manux

[Manux]

Belting A/B - Installation

I opted to do this step ahead of time and not when the gantry is flying  as it gives you more access to the gantry not doing inside the cube.

So i skipped ahead and did it like in the manual. Was quite easy. Got it correct the first time with the belt paths.

Important: I went with the CNC Version of the belt holder on the Extruder. This costs like 10 Dollars extra and can be ordered in the Siboor shop when you buy the printer.

I felt more compy with actual metal clamps holding the belts.

I manged to get 40 teeth spare, or about 10cm in the end.

Here are some pics:

Here is the end result with the excess belt:

 

[Manux]

Hanging the Gantry

This was quite straight forward.

I used duct tape to secure the gantry.

I used the image from the BIFI Idlers to see where to align the belts. Next just like in the manual. I attached the belts beforehand on the underside as this is easier than hanging it and then doing it.

Side note: Make SURE you got enough of the red belt clamps. You need the shorter ones and only two longer ones. I got too much of the  longer ones and they don't fit. Then i sanded down one edge but it leads to early binding etc. Make sure you go the corrects parts! And enough of them. Needed to print a new part on my old Prusa MK3. (Don't sell your printer before you have a running voron :)

Pro Tip: Just print the belt clamps with the 2 cutouts for the belts. Better friction and easy storage of excess belt.

The manual was really good here so it was a breeze.

Close ups:

 

 

Duct tape to the rescue:

Edited December 21, 2024 by Manux

[Manux]

Z joints - GE5C Mod

Now this was a bit challenging. We wanted to replace all 4 corners with the slim version. But only one screw would fit. 20mm is just ver very short to screw in. We opted to shorten the 40mm screws from the Sibooor kit that would be used for the original mount. We shortend it to 23mm. Turned out to be perfect.

With these new screws screwing them in was quite easy. But we made new screws for it

The mount itself is an engineering marvel like the whole printer to be honest. With the GE5C the gantry can still tilt but its firmly screwed in. Its amazing!

To build the mod itself we just used the pics on the voron mod site.

What was not so obvious was that we had to remove the m5 screw from the gantry to fix the GE5C into place. Also if you have belt groves stick out from the mounting clamp as i did, you have to trim those to be flush.

Here are some pictures of our endeavors:

Mounted on the frame:

 Pro Tip: Turn the Voron upside down for easier screwing...

Edited December 21, 2024 by Manux

[Manux]

De-Racking the Gantry

We tried to de rack it but it turned out is was not really racked. Everything is smooth. We took good care while building it and the Siboor parts are just perfect to spec.

What can i tell you: We followed the De-Racking video and there was only a tiny bit of racking in the left back corner. I mean its like the last 3mm till it hits the part. This is way out of the print range. We tried to fix this as best as possible and now its like 1mm slightly racked. But after 20 min the said we live with this. Due to the y endstop its not likely that this position will be hit anyway as the mount for this endstop is like 5-10mm tick and so the beam should stop before this anyway. We will see.

Other than that it was a very smooth experience. No wandering of the extruder holder and everything was very smooth.

I'm very happy with the parts from Siboor so far. I think with the de - racking we can see the first real test of the precision of the parts and the squareness of the frame. I'm therefor very happy with our build process and with the Siboor parts.

 

[Manux]

Galileo2 and Hotend

Sorry i stopped building for a while for personal reasons but im back on it and im at the wireing right now. So i think i will keep gonging now till it is finished

----

This was the most finicky part of the printer to build.

It was ok in the end with the Galielo Manual and the CW2 manual. For clairty it was good to take a look into CW2 how things should fit.

Stuff to Note: 

- I forgot to print some parts for the LED light inside the stealhburner....

- I used thermal paste for the hotend to make it more heat conductable.

- I did not print the Galileo2 Parts i had them printed. I did not trust my Prusa with some of the finer parts for it.

- Due to static buildup on the filament when it runs trough a PTFE tube it can lead to damage to your steppers, there is an exelect thread on github if you want to know more. However easiest solution is to not use a long PTFE tube for the filament and also ground your E motor for extra safety. Thats what i did on the pics there the wire comes out from the motor.

- I also used a latch with a 5v Fan inside. To cool down the EBB board. You can grab 5v from the EBB itselp from the "Probe" connector.

-> https://www.printables.com/model/680592-galileo-2-2507-fan-cover-for-sb2209sb2240

The wires are to perfect length tho from Siboor. So that was cool!

There is not much to note other than the Parts do not seem to fit together at first and i had to watch some youtube vids to get how to attach the G2 to the Hotend part.

I did not use the Stealthburner Hotend part where the hotend actually sits as it would blow on the heatbreak of the hotend and this could lead to clogs. There is a better version on printables.  I used this one https://www.printables.com/model/883286-stealthburner-printhead-for-dragon-hf but there is also this one: https://www.printables.com/model/625623-phaetus-dragon-hf-printhead-mount-for-stealthburne

Also figureing out how to attach alll this to the CNC mount as it looks so different but the meachnics are nearly the same.

For the cable sleeve and the CAN Bus Cable holder i printed this: https://www.printables.com/model/1087611-galileo2-btt-ebb-sb2209-usb-v10-cable-strain-relie

Well it took some time and it was quite a while back when i did it so i dont remember all the details but if you struggle, just reply and i try to remember.

There are some pics tho

Edited June 4, 2025 by Manux
pics added

[Manux]

Stealthburner

Was a quite easy to build with the manual. Had some trouble with the correct wireing but nothing major. Fans fitted perfectly.

The LED housing in the middle so to speak was a bit tricky.

Take care while attaching the Front plate to the back. It needs to allign perfectly otherwise you could damage your EBB board...

 

[Manux]

Y Endstop

This was easy just wire like shown in the Voron Manual.

Just take care with the wires, i managed to pull my endstop wires out of the plug and had to redo them.

 

[Manux]

Z Umbilical

Here the design of the top part i took from the forums here for a better designed part and on the bottom part there is a wall where none should be i think. So i fixxed it with a solering iron... not my best work but did not feel like remodeling and reprinting for 8 hours just for that piece...

Other than that i had to reroute the cables trice trough theere because of stupidity on various parts....

Edited May 16 by Manux
adding pic

[Manux]

Fixed the Pogos

I removed the Pogos and opted for some wagos. I also semi glued the nuts for the heatbed its a PITA to anign them manualy every time...

All the Filter Fans do work and im waiting for the heating results.

Also on that note.

I did not add TheFilter to a normal Fan output as the Pogos can cause shorts. So i wired it like this:

The ones near the FANs is the Heater i use for TheFilter. I still use this as it gives me more security.

Here is the aftermath of some sparks...

[Manux]

Preperation for the wireing

Here is some prep work for the wireing of the parts. I had to install mounts on the parts. I also installed a heatsink on the EBB board and a 5 v fan to cool the board on longer prints.

 

Here you can see where i got the 5v from and the ground on the probe to power the fan. This works like a charm. If the printer is on the fan is on and its not too loud.

[JohnNick]

Did you ever finish the printer?

[Manux]

On 4/9/2026 at 3:08 PM, JohnNick said:

Did you ever finish the printer?

Hi John,

As a matter of fact yes i did, will post more later. It runs and at this moment the Voron Cube is printing after fixing everything up last night.

Sadly i got some immediate health problems last year and did get married and changed jobs so i could not focus on the printer but i did work on some things i will post and then i did the Software side wich was quite easy when i got the hang of it... 

[Manux]

More Wireing

I used these manuals for all the wireing:

- Siboor Official Wireing Diagram (this was spot on)
- Galileo2 Manual 
- Siboor Github Page
- Voron 2.4 Manual, where appropriate

Wiring was quite easy with these manuals. Just take your time. I took me two days to wire it up i think. Be diligent and it should work. I had some headache with the CAN Adpater piece i think but i worked out in the end. It was a long time ago but if someone has a specific problem im sure i will remember.

Parts i switched out:

- PSU - used a 100% authentic Meanwell, one with a fan, Siboor one probably was Meanwell as well but did not have a fan.
- Omron Relais for the heatbed. Here Siboor did supply a Chinese brand. It looked well made but because the bed is heated with main volatage i did not want to take any chances.
- Heatsinks - I used copper heat sinks for all of the steppers. I ripped the aluminum ones off after a first test and replaced all with copper as the get pretty hot.
- I used a BTT Pi 2 and not the supplied on as it is a bit weak especially with camera. But also some printer failures i read on the forums about could be because not to much headroom in the CPU/Ram department...

 

 

After all of this i turned it on an no magic smoke escaped. 

Edited May 16 by Manux

[Manux]

Back Panel

I mounted the back panel with the Annex clips works like a charm and looks badass.

 

[Manux]

Bottom pannel with latches

I used these latches and they work. They are a bit flimsy and a bit wobbly but they do their job:

https://www.printables.com/model/172368-voron-24-filament-latch-or-any-2020-extrusion

Im happy i did it it turns out you need to get to the octopuss board quite frequently when there is a klipper update...

[Manux]

Rockers

As i said earlier in this stage you need to get to the electronics a LOT. As my prusa is to small to print the Roll Back Stands i printed the standard rockers.

They do their job but there is better out there...

 

[Manux]

Software Side and initial Setup

I used this BTT Pi2 Image for the "Pi": https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB2/releases

And this manual to get started: https://www.obico.io/blog/installing-and-configuring-klipper-on-btt-pi-2-with-obico-ai-integration/

After this i could login into the website (i used LAN, Wifi has/had some problems) and did the initial Calibration with the Siboor Manual. 

To get a working Printer you have to setup CANBUS i used this video for it: 

I found the video very good and was able to setup my octopuss and ebb board.

Sadly my carthographer Probe was not flashed with katapult at the time and i had to jerryrig a usb-2.0 cable with this adapter to be able to flash catapult to it: 

I used this manual to do it:https://docs.cartographer3d.com/cartographer-probe/archive/broken-katapult-bootloader

After the initial flash of katapult i could update the firmware of cartographer. 

For the Cartographer firmware update i followed the official manual also very good: https://docs.cartographer3d.com/cartographer-probe/installation-and-setup

Which i found quite good i might add: https://docs.siboor.com/siboor-2.4-r2-aug/the-build/initial-startup-dec-05 

I folllowed this till "Inital startup checks".

Important: If you set up Cartographer "Touch", you SHOULD NOT set a Z Offset. Touch will Calibrate it perfetly on its own.

After this i had a printer that could home, a do QGL but with older firmware and nothing printed yet. But it was a good start sadly my health got in the way so i left the printer for one year....

Edited May 16 by Manux

[Manux]

After one year... - or how to update your printer from scratch

Everything was outdated.

So how to update ? You have to start farthest from the PI and work your way towards it.

First you need to know your hardware. You have to do some googling what stuff is shipped in your kit and get the CPU and so right. For my kit it was:

BTT Pi 2:
-----------

V 1.01
RK3566 cpu

Oktopus Pro:
-------------

v 1.01
S2350J-231212984-000540
2350
V 1.0.1 uses STM32H723ZE (550 MHz) cpu.

Ebb CAN Board:
-------------------

EBB SB2209 CAN V1.0 (RP2040)

Cartographer:
-------------------

- Cartographer V3 USB/CAN with ADXL345 - NO End Resistor!

Then the data layout is like this:

Pi
 ↓
Octopus (USB ↔ CAN bridge)
 ↓
CAN trunk
 ↓
EBB SB2209/SB2240
 ↓
Cartographer piggyback CAN connection

Flash order:

1. Cartographer FW update
2. Katapult to EBB Head Board flash (normally not needed)
3. Klipper Host update
4. Octopuss flash
5. EBB flash

 

Update everything:

cd ~/katapult
git pull
cd

cd ~/cartographer_firmware
git pull
./fw_update.sh

If its a big version jump in Cartographer make sure to follow the instructions on the carto page.

Test QGL and Home.

Now EBB and Octopuss FW build:

EBB Head board:

cd ~
cp config_ebb ~/klipper/.config
cd ~/klipper
make olddefconfig
make clean
make -j4
cp out/klipper.bin ~/firmware_ebb.bin

Octopus:

cd ~
cp config_octopuss ~/klipper/.config
cd ~/klipper
make olddefconfig
make clean
make -j4
cp out/klipper.bin ~/firmware_octopus.bin

Flash Octopus:

Place DFU Jumper on the board and reboot first!

Now:

cp config_octopuss ~/klipper/.config
cd ~/klipper
make olddefconfig
make clean
make -j4

lsusb | grep "0483:df11 STMicroelectronics STM Device in DFU Mode"

make flash FLASH_DEVICE=0483:df11

Remove DFU Jumper and Reboot Printer!

EBB flash with CAN connection:

cd ~
cd katapult/scripts/
./flashtool.py -i can0 -q
python3 flashtool.py -i can0 -f /home/biqu/firmware_ebb.bin -u 7e541165b597

Reboot everything and it should work.

 

Edited May 16 by Manux

[Manux]

Configs & Temps

Here are my working configs with the 2026 Cartographer update. For now it does print a Voron cube but the quality is okish not what i wanted from a Voron. That said. I did not tune anything and did use generic slicer profiles. So there is a lot of room for improvement.

Very good are the brideing, first layer (very impressed by the Touch feature), overall dimensions. 

printer.cfg

config_octopuss

config_ebb.txt

Important: to get a print use the macro in the printer config for the start code in your slicer.... see cartographer manual.

Temps looking good while printing with the copper coolers.

[Manux]

First print / not calibrated

Here are some pics from my first print with orca Slicer. Generic profile nothing changed.

Next is Ellis Guide, then Input Shapeing, then pressure advance and Temp calibration etc.

What do you think ? Tipps ?

 

Edited May 16 by Manux

[Manux]

DFU Switch

I did solder a switch for the DFU boot mode of the Octopuss board. Works like a charm.

Will probably reprint the part later for now soldering iron and drill did the job.