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Voron 2.4 R1 350x350x350 PIF Self Sourcing / R2 Upgrade


BlackJack
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Been recommended to start a build diary for others that want to do the same. I'm not good at keeping document so will try my best.

All start early late 2020 to early 2021 at the time there are no recommended kit available, to ensure the build quality is good I went with PIF and self sourcing parts. Sign up the PIF to wait for the queue and start to using the voron sourcing guide to order parts not all ships to my country(New Zealand) PIF printed parts showed up first the print is very good worth the wait.

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Parts I've order did not show up till mid May due to Covid and shipping is very slow, some parts were wrong or was not up to standard I would use in the printer.  So had to order replacements from other vender on aliexpress. More parts show up around mid June now I've got enough parts to start the build and wait for more parts to come in.(sorry did not take any photo during the build)

 

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This is how far I've got cable chain were not good so have order igus cable chain as show in photo. Also the extrusions kit I got were short of the rear extrusion for the AB drive its on the way to me now should have it next week if tracking is right. I found the extrusion from my mendelmax 1.5 is the right length so used for now. Will start the wiring soon as I finish this post and hope to get it to print by next weekend.

Parts I've got on hand to install - Linneo wiring harness, BTT Octopus v1.1, tool head PCB, all electronics parts, heat bed and panels.  Not too happy about the heat bed may order a new one if not great once heated.

Have been looking at the kits on offer now and the quality is fairly good I would recommend anyone if you are not patient enough try not to self source. Also I've notice more and more vender are showing up that carrying quality parts for the Voron its making things easier for me to order parts to finish and upgrade at the same time.

Edited by BlackJack
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Slight change of plan, buddy of my came to visit yesterday we got talking on how I need to get printer printing to print parts to finish and upgrade to R2.  He mentioned guy from his work maybe able to print the parts for me just supply the filament & files.

So went drop off the filaments I got to him after work today.  And show him the link to the list of parts I need and files.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kPTQX1FffAdaUSn5Bqg3Sz63h_om7z8YBTyErquPfNM/edit#gid=0

Above is the link I used. Hope it's right will report back on it once I get them and swap out the parts to R2.

I've also got him to print parts for mods I was going to do like klicky probe, decontaminator purge bucket & nozzle scrubber.

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  • 2 weeks later...

346827029_XYJoint01.thumb.jpg.e42db07edec313477f4eeae787dc4e1e.jpg1014068049_XYJoint02.thumb.jpg.ce699d908307cd6741397e0ecffa1ce6.jpg

Run into some problems with the XY Joint and took some days to work out what to do with it, including a reprint of the part. On the original R1 XY Joints the GT2 20 Tooth idler feel little choppy after install did not take much notice back then thinking maybe it just need breaking in bearings once it's going.

Now with R2 XY joints left side were smooth but left side does not turn. The idler seem to be bottomed out on the flange I was worry the part was bad so got a new one printed. New printed part did the same thing and the part look fine so as the photo above show I used a cap screw and dress it up with a file till the flange clear the part. with it just like the R1 part feels little choppy unlike the left side smooth. Took it all a part a few times and found the left side screw bottom out and only lightly touching the idler bearing not got much pressure on the bearing it self but right side was not the same require the screw to be pressure on the bearing lot more which cause it the feel little choppy when turning. So I got a longer screw cut down/test fit/cut down till the screw is tight and have the same amount of pressure on the bearing as the left side. So my guess is the part didn't need to be filed a slightly longer screw would be a better option. My screw ended up to be around 42mm. 

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Will try spend some time on the printer this weekend. One note on the manual the R2 is very good compare to the R1 manual, with R1 manual most of time I got to keep checking with the CAD to work out what to do.

 

 

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  • BlackJack changed the title to Voron 2.4 R1 350x350x350 PIF Self Sourcing / R2 Upgrade

More done pass few days.

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GE5C Z Joint mods

 

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finished gantry with klicky probe mod.

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Got the tool head pcb but the extruder motor plate for pcb printed part is different than what I have up on looking at the stl file found extruder body, latch, latch shuttle and chain anchor are different and is not listed on https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kPTQX1FffAdaUSn5Bqg3Sz63h_om7z8YBTyErquPfNM/edit#gid=0 which I used as reference of my R2 print list, hope to have them printed before the weekend so I can carry on with the build.

 

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Got my extruder part today got a full set printed just in case. Top side are R2 updated parts.

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Updated fan covers. Top side are R2 updated parts

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Extruder with toolhead PCB ready to go on the printer.

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Extruder install on the printer and wiring done.

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Got the sexbolt upgrade ready too.

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Starting on the electronics now I like the R2 parts for the electronics. Still waiting for more electronics to show up in the mail.

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Edited by BlackJack
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7 hours ago, Buurman said:

what is the big advantage btw of using the DOOM board (PCB I think its called?) 

It's easier. When changing parts on the toolhead (e.g. the thermistor) you don't have to redo the entire wiring all the way to the main board. All your wires are shorter and only hook onto the pcb.

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Finish wiring the heat bed.

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Problem with the Sexbolt mod does not fit  due to the printed part touching the heat bed and still not got enough clearance for the print nozzle to safe touch the pin.

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Back to the old style Z endstop it fits under the heat bed and able to set the clearance to 1.5mm as per manual. Will look at the Sexbolt mod later.

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Read view of heat bed plug mod and purge bucket mod installed.

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Done some wiring I've try my best to make it look tidy.

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Heat bed install to printer, you can just see the brush and Z endstop pin. Life getting busy coming week so will try find time to work on the printer and post the updates.

Edited by BlackJack
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There is some trial and error on the Sexbolt. Basically home XY and then manually move the head into the correct position. Take note of the location and feed that into the config setting.

On my Trident, the mount didn't fit well either. I took a file to it and shaved off some of that top section until I could get it close enough to the bed. Really, the printed housing is much thicker than it needs to be.

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Are those magnets embedded in the, err, bed? 😉 
First time I see one like that.
I have to assume those magnets aren't just gonna pop out when the bed is 100C?
Why choose this arrangement over say a Wham Bam magnetic sheet?

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4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

There is some trial and error on the Sexbolt. Basically home XY and then manually move the head into the correct position. Take note of the location and feed that into the config setting.

On my Trident, the mount didn't fit well either. I took a file to it and shaved off some of that top section until I could get it close enough to the bed. Really, the printed housing is much thicker than it needs to be.

I still feel like the Sexbolt is an over-engineered solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.
It's not like it's extremely difficult to file a flat spot on a pin to prevent it from falling out. Even easier if you have a Dremel.

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Isn't over-engineered the name of the game here? 😆 I chose to add the mod because mod, I liked the method of capturing the pin, and the larger target the bolt head provides. In the end, taking a Dremel to a pin would have been just as easy--maybe easier.

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On 5/10/2022 at 1:16 AM, claudermilk said:

There is some trial and error on the Sexbolt. Basically home XY and then manually move the head into the correct position. Take note of the location and feed that into the config setting.

On my Trident, the mount didn't fit well either. I took a file to it and shaved off some of that top section until I could get it close enough to the bed. Really, the printed housing is much thicker than it needs to be.

I've try play around with the bed fitments of the Sexbolt was not successful due to I was not wanting to lose too much print able area. With stock Z endstop and purge bucket mod I get around 351mm print able area more with out purge bucket mod due to the brush and Sexbolt will lose 5-6mm from there to have it hit the center of the it. In the end I just went back to the stock Z endstop since I was spending too much time just on the Sexbolt.

Will try again later once the printer is running hopefully Sexbolt mod have new updates by then.

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On 5/10/2022 at 6:13 AM, SVDB said:

Are those magnets embedded in the, err, bed? 😉 
First time I see one like that.
I have to assume those magnets aren't just gonna pop out when the bed is 100C?
Why choose this arrangement over say a Wham Bam magnetic sheet?

Want the magnets in the bed to stop inconsistent surface after install the magnet sticker to help the bed surface. I was not happy about this bed will see how it goes once heated if no good will get a magbed from here https://mandalaroseworks.com/products/voron-350-ultraflat-bed?variant=42186142744829

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I love the Bed plug you are using, so much more elegant than a wago 😉 will look that one up for the next build.
I also like the simple bed limiters that you use, makes it easier to put the bed in again at the right position if needed. do you have a link or name?

For me the sexbolt fitted fine, nozzle can reach the front of the bed and the sexbolt, is your bed by any chance 10mm larger? really, it fits fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/17/2022 at 8:57 PM, Buurman said:

I love the Bed plug you are using, so much more elegant than a wago 😉 will look that one up for the next build.
I also like the simple bed limiters that you use, makes it easier to put the bed in again at the right position if needed. do you have a link or name?

For me the sexbolt fitted fine, nozzle can reach the front of the bed and the sexbolt, is your bed by any chance 10mm larger? really, it fits fine.

The purge bucket had a bed stopper which make it easy for moving bed and re align the bed. Here is the link : https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber

You can just print the stopper or do the purge bucket mod.

Here is the link for the bed plug : https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/jeoje/Molex_MLX_Microfit_Bed_Connector_Mount

Bed is 355mmx355mmx8mm it fits fine with the stock Z endstop height is about right too. With the sexbolt the printed part does not clear the bed, to clear the bed loose more print able arear than I need so will revisit later on or maybe getting a new bed.

I see you get your printer finish good work! I'm having more problem with wiring with my.

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Sorry for the late update was not able to find time to sort out all new problems I run into with the wiring.

I got the Linneo 350mm cable harness for Octopus+Tool head its too short I have take it apart a few times and try to get the cable to fit better to get more length but with no luck it was just too far. I'm guessing the harness is suited for the R1 not for R2 just got the find time and a way to lengthen it so it looks good.

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Harness too short.

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Have done some other wiring on the printer apart from the harness. Its hard to make it look nice & tidy but once its all done will try make it look tidier.

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Cable chain fits nice.

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Got AB Drive connector mod to make the wiring tidy.

 

Hope to work out or find a nice way to lengthen the harness so it looks tidy.

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