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Really Rather Red - Trident 350mm - Self Source


Hais

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# Overview

  1. Red 350x350x250 frame + Fire Engine Red ABS+ parts
  2. Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo Voron
  3. Manta M5P + CB1 + TMC2209 + CAN
  4. LDO Motors
  5. Tap Tap Tap!
  6. Mods! (will get to those later)

# Parts list (will edit as things change)

# The frame

I'd say this Fystec frame is more magenta than red, but either way, I think it looks great. 

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# Printing time

I'm printing parts on an Ender 3 V2, in a cold garage. I started in November but had to wait till Mid-January before temperatures were above 0c. 

The first results weren't great... eSUN ABS+ spool was full of tangles which caused failed prints :classic_sad:

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But eventually, some prints started to emerge!

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To be continued...

Edited by Hais
Updated parts list
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After non-stop printing for about a week, I started to do some heat-set inserts and piece things together. 

At this point, the FYSTEC fastener kit, POWGE motion kit, A/B motors (LDO 42STH48-2004MAH), Z motors (LDO 42STH40-1684L300E), and the BMG gears (Triangle labs RNC Nano Coated Gear DDB Extruder) had arrived.

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Edited by Hais
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Final post of tonight, just been backfilling progress up until now. 

CNA linear rails had a lovely relaxing IPA bath and started getting attached to the frame. Stock Idlers assembled (although I've printed Rama idlers too).

Gantry attached to the frame!

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Ignore the wonky-looking frame - I didn't use any thread locker at this point, and went back and squared off the frame to look more... square :classic_laugh:

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Now we're up to speed with today. 

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11 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Good progress. Just remember to square not only the frame but more importantly the gantry - will save you heaps of hassles in future.

Absolutely, especially for a Trident. It's now pretty well aligned I think. All joints loosened, rested on a flat surface (glass hob), set by a machinists square and another length of extrusion, and tightened again. I've yet to apply thread locker yet, but I'll go back and repeat again with it before I go to far into the build. 

The Y rails move very smoothly, even without grease yet, and no signs of racking. 

Edited by Hais
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Time to work on the huge chunk of metal that will be the print bed. 

Nothing prepares you for dealing with a few kilograms of heavy, cold, cast aluminium.

Followed Nero3D's excellent video on how to prepare a print bed. I'll be going for the RTV seal after it's been compressed overnight. 

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Pretty impressed with the heater pad from Magicphoenix. Nice thick wires; pre-crimped terminals; solid Molex connectors; prewired thermal fuse; a bag of Molex terminals for crimping; and a second thermistor for what I assume is mounting on the edge of the bed. The mat is a little close to the holes for mounting but nothing a spacer nut won't solve. 

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Popped on the M3 SHCS for the plate stops - which is a nice touch - and slid on the slick matt black PEI sheet over the magnet. Even if it's a total fingerprint magnet... and not red. 

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(Oh - and by the way - I've updated the first post with the current list of components I have or have ordered - will keep it updated as I continue)

Edited by Hais
typo
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Wow, awesome post, with all the links, thats really great for others!! 

Cool color, I kinda was afraid yo u went with the default black/red... but Nooooo! awesome!! I think a Voron is allowed to scream!!

I have the PEI sheet also from Printy please, and its great! dont put their cats vomit on it ever, its extremely sticky, yes, but leaves white stains on your black prints.. 
You can get it off, cleaning the prints with alcohol.. but its not great.. but yes.. sticks like hell, but with this plate not needed, I use it with old plates that dont stick anymore.

Heater pad looks good indeed!

 

Good luck on the build! 

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Thanks, dude.

I might accent some of the red with something else when I inevitably reprint - I've heard horror stories about ABS+ cracking - but I'm loving the bold colours so far. 

I've been using Cat Vomit on my Ender 3 to print most of my ABS Voron parts and I have to say it's really helped me. I've found the residue comes off pretty easily. 

Edited by Hais
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2 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

What if I don't have a cat? 😂

You just get the Vomit... thats the beauty of it 😛 

I love the sense of humor on this printy please website... stupid comments, as .. DONT buy this.. its useless.. love it..

Like with the cat vomit.. if you own a cat.... you know why... 🙂 

You can call it KangerooKAkka!! 

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29 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I love the sense of humor on this printy please website... stupid comments, as .. DONT buy this.. its useless.. love it..

Agreed. PrintyPlease and DFH.fm have great 'branding' if you can call it that, with a sense of humour. Both are very active on the Voron Discord. 

Edited by Hais
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3 minutes ago, Buurman said:

love the sense of humor on this printy please website.

Agree - comes in a similar bottle than the Non-Polymer adhesives - may be similar, just cheaper as the site says.

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2 minutes ago, Hais said:

Both are very active on the Voron Discord

Yup, I bought some TAP kits with the group buy from "Chairman Meow" from Printy Please.
Now I have about 10 TAP kits, and building no TAPS 😛 hahaha! who knows.. later still..

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41 minutes ago, Hais said:

I did make a little bit of progress on my Tap (Cat branded of course)

Looking good. Bummer about the soldering iron - can be frustrating

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2 hours ago, Hais said:

Always fun trying to eyeball the difference between an M3x6 and an M3x8 screw

Soon, this will be second nature, wont get it wrong ever.. at least.. I dont anymore... its more the 16 and 20mm thats sometimes second guessing 😛

 

Looks cool, please continue!! 

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