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My second Voron 2.4 R2, Formbot build, this time, all default!


Buurman
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I guess about two months after building my first Voron for myself I am starting to build a second one.
This kit is slightly different than the first build, this one will be all Formbot default, no custom wiring, Klicky or Stealthburner... all default R2/Formbot build.

EDIT1: I realise the only thing I am adding to this build is the VEFACH filter inserts, default doesnt work, this mod is absolutely amazing, good filter functionality.

Kits and parts are getting more expensive, self sourcing has gotten more expensive than buying a kit. (yes, I did compare)
So with this build I just want to see IF the default kit is good enough, what are the down and upsides from it.
 

I am based in Amsterdam, so I ordered it from Formbot directly and had it shipped from Szech, this prevents extra import costs, but the kit is more expensive than from China, yet you still save about 100 euro.

The kist price was 1000 DOLLAR, excluding Raspberry Pi, (you get 45 dollar back if they dont have it) I found a Raspberry Pi 4 in stock for 45 euro. 
You get the Dragon hotend send from China, if you dont choose the default hotend. In this kit the Extruder cable was missing, but it was added to the hotend from China by default.
They will fix this in future kits I am sure, but this was no issue for me.

I have printed all the parts on my Voron, same color scheme as the first ASA, black and NeonYellow. (Holy crap thats a lot of prints) 😉

NEXT POST: Unpacking the Formbot KIT.

 

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Edited by Buurman
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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

I guess about two months after building my first Voron for myself I am starting to build a second one.
This kit is slightly different than the first build, this one will be all Formbot default, no custom wiring, Klicky or Stealthburner... all default R2/Formbot build.

EDIT1: I realise the only thing I am adding to this build is the VEFACH filter inserts, default doesnt work, this mod is absolutely amazing, good filter functionality.

Kits and parts are getting more expensive, self sourcing has gotten more expensive than buying a kit. (yes, I did compare)
So with this build I just want to see IF the default kit is good enough, what are the down and upsides from it.
 

I am based in Amsterdam, so I ordered it from Formbot directly and had it shipped from Szech, this prevents extra import costs, but the kit is more expensive than from China, yet you still save about 100 euro.

The kist price was 1000 DOLLAR, excluding Raspberry Pi, (you get 45 dollar back if they dont have it) I found a Raspberry Pi 4 in stock for 45 euro. 
You get the Dragon hotend send from China, if you dont choose the default hotend. In this kit the Extruder cable was missing, but it was added to the hotend from China by default.
They will fix this in future kits I am sure, but this was no issue for me.

I have printed all the parts on my Voron, same color scheme as the first ASA, black and NeonYellow. (Holy crap thats a lot of prints) 😉

NEXT POST: Unpacking the Formbot KIT.

20220613_083731056_iOS.jpg

Have fun. As you said - self sourcing has become expensive due to postage costs. Especially here down under. And if you are lucky to source locally the cost is just about the same as importing. Currently building the 2.4r2 (self sourced). I also have all the hardware for the Switchwire which will be next.(Ordered parts with 2.4 parts to save on postage) 

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Let me start with a golden advise, mostly to myself, open the box on the top, not the bottom, all the stickers were placed like this was the top 😉

So, ignore that it looks a bit more messy than it should.

Again, box is well isolated and protected, very solid and it can take a hit... the bed and the frame are far from the edges, what helps.

Like mentioned on my previous build, these are MOONS motors.
Also, again on this kit (its slightly different from last) the RAILS is absolute nice quality, smooth out of the box, no need to clean, just lubricate. (at least, I do)

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Edited by Buurman
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Putting together the frame and the rails on them. Everything is straight forward, but ofcourse some advises:

  1. When screwing together the frame, triple check if you tighten the corners together if they are still flush, they move VERY easy when tightening the screw. Dont just check the sides, also check the bottom! putting together the frame straight is possibly most time consuming of it all. (if done right). REALLY put some time into this and TRIPLE check your corners.
  2. If you put in the bottom, directly put in the small plate straighteners (the small twisty printed things that you put in the frame) Otherwise you forget them, and they become impossible to put in later... 😛  You printed 16 of the use the 8 shorter ones for the bottom plate with Formbot.

NEXT.. GANTRY!

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putting together the gantry is something I still learned something about on my second build, so let me share this experience.

The first build I did, I followed the manual up to the letter, but this resulted in a gantry that stood a bit wide on the side of the front idlers, and needed a bit force to put on the rails. (not a lot of force, but certainly not idle)

In the manual they mention, dont tighten the screws on the XY rail yet, but I like to ADD, dont tighten the screws on the back rail also.
If your gantry is put together, as in this step of the manual, move the XY rail backwards and forward and you probably notice its a bit "tight" rolling all the way back, this is where the loose bolts help on the back rail, just by putting a small force on the side rails, you create some extra space on the back rail, and the XY will move much happier.

Simply because there isnt much space on the XY rail to move tighter, and even on the most tight position, it still felt "off" so creating some extra space on the back rail the answer.

This has no consequences whatever on the size or printer functionality, a smooth operation is important.

Advise:

  1. putting in the belts at the bottom motors, push it trough, pick it up on the bottom, pull it all out, grab a longer ty-rap and put this from the top on the correct side of the pully, tape the belt to it to pull it back trough. Work mush easier than trying to push it trough from the bottom directly.
  2. CHECK smooth operation of your gantry on the RAILS only, so even before putting your belts in. After the belts its hardly possible to move the gantry up or down.

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BELTS BELTS BELTS!! (yes, I watched too many "how I met your mother" ....)

Belts, again, starting from the back at the motors, easiest place to start. first do the lower belt, then the upper, so you cant make mistakes.
Be careful at the back at the motors that you dont put your belts around the plastic, yeah.. its possible..

Last time I had a HUGE fight with the front idlers, this time, took me 5 minutes to do both, used a ty-rap again and taped the belt to it, pull it trough.

The DUCT/DD/Dragon first time to put together the afterburner since last time i went directly to Stealthburner.
I like this little one too, looks so compact to the SB... but I do feel its stronger and less movement, so should print even better, might be heavier though.

SB has better cable management, you see NO wires on the SB, and clearly you DO see them on the AB.

I may run into a challenge, the added SENSOR is in its highest position still very much sticking out, about 1 cm (should be 6mm).
And its almost or even, equal to my nozzle... argh.. lets see, maybe I have 1mm of luck, lets see.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ah, its been a while, but I made big progress, just forgot to update here....

All is done but the windows/filter, been printing PLA with it, to test an finally understand this auto Z/Klicky stuff... 

Finally understanding that IF you configure it right, you never have to bed level again, even after nozzle or bed change... 

Need to double check on my other printer, because I made it work there, but not 100% as I should .. I think...

 

For this one, wiring was a pleasure again, all default formbot wires, and all went well, it IS a patience game.

TIP on wiring: START at your PrintDuct/hotend/AB/SB/whatever... and work your way to the board, ONLY this way you use every cm of wiring to your advantage.

I did it the other way around, starting at the back of the bed, but then you have to take out the extra length, and really, you are doing things twice/three/four times..

What I noticed with this slightly newer Forbot kit, the Moons motors seem WAY more quieter, where my printer makes sounds, this one just slides without any motor sound, incredible! Been playing with current settings to see if I can make my motors a little quieter, and I did... but not this silent..

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Edited by Buurman
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  • Voron FTW! 1
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