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A Voron 0.1 Adventure - from East of England


EricD
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I've had a Prusa MK3 for around three years and a Prusa Mini  for about two years; I was going to get a an XL but saw the light (Hallelujah) and got a an LDO Voron 0.1 kit from onetwo3d instead. It was on order for about 4 weeks and arrived two days ago. The only bit I've taken out of the kit, so far, is the heat thread inserts tool. I'm going with Sunlu blue ABS and eSun black ABS+. I've printed some stuff while I've been waiting - most of the Top Hat, all the bits for the frame and am currently printing more blue stuff.

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I was a bit nervous of printing ABS, but I had a light tent for the MK3S so I thought I'd give it go with that, always with the fallback of buying the printed parts. I started using a Kores glue stick on a Prusa brand textured plate, which worked ok, but difficult to get the coating even. I've now moved to a diluted (2 parts water, 1 part glue) Kores liquid PVA. A scant brush tip full will usually do all the area I need. It spreads evenly and washes off fine with hot soap water. But the ABS fumes are uncomfortable, not too smelly, but throat challenging and headachy. My playroom is an upstairs bedroom, to which I keep the door shut when printing. Nonetheless the whole upstairs gets quite a dose of the ABS fumes. So, I though I'd print the Nevermore Carbon Filter V4 and have today put that in the MK3S tent on a very posh wooden mount 🤭 with a piece of cardboard under it to help it keep upright 🤫

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I'm using a not-so-powerful 2 pin connection fan at the moment, but after just this afternoon as a trial, it does seem better, at least the upstairs feels ok now. I've got a more powerful fan on it's way from China - I'll reprint the fan cowling for it in black I think, before it moves to Mr Voron.

My Prusa took me ages to build, I took it slowly and it took about a month to complete. I did start this Voron project in a rush, but have slowed down (just a bit) now - I intend to enjoy the build. I've started a spread sheet as a build and print guide, I want to be able to start each section, Prusa style, knowing I've got all the bits that I need to complete it in front of me.

I also printed a bracket for a Logitech C270 camera - I'm trying to anticipate any "extra" m3 nuts required in the frame to attach bits like a camera mount, Nevermore Fan mount, maybe handles. I'd really appreciate any suggestions 🤔

I'll probably finish printing all the Blue Bits tomorrow, and then next week I'll have a go at building The Frame

All suggestions and encouragement welcome. This diary building feels very therapeutic, better by far than boring the whatever's off of mates down the pub, but I'll probably do that as well 😆

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, just about everything in my first post was wrong, mistaken or sub-optimal 🙄

On the positive side, my top hat pieces came out fine, but the fan was a terrible idea, it dragged air across the plate adding to some warping. The diluted PVA started to become a bugger to wash off, and the textured plate was not the best idea. I hadn't noticed (or looked properly) but I was getting warping on the bigger, thicker bits, like feet, and the tensioners. The tensioner became my test piece, with it's sticky-out arms and overhanging threads - it is a real challenge. Any other challenging pieces you think I should try?

So, some days, and 150gms later, with some help from the V0.1 LDO kit owners FB group (have I been unfaithful?) my setup is now:
6mm brim, Smooth PEI plate, Magigoo, 250° extruder, 110° bed, live Z squeezed down 0.1 from PLA setting, and leave the tent to warm up with these settings for about 20 minutes.
So far, this is working great.

Somewhere in the panic cool considerations I also ordered a Prusa satin plate, which arrived today, not sure now whether to try it, or leave well alone.

I also started thinking about my colour choice, a bit staid .....

Edited by EricD
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Yes, so colours. I hadn't thought about much, if at all. But you folks are really creative with colour choices. Then I found the Colour Configurator. Wow. So I've now bought some eSun ABS+ Fire Engine Red and Natural, as well as the black and Sunlu blue. Thinking something like:

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But with a blue top hat and black tensioner/nuts. Now having fun.😊

Edited by EricD
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  • Voron FTW! 1
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And then, I was looking to get a flat surface to build it on. I had ordered a tempered glass 6mm thick shelf about the right size, but it came smashed to bits - really smashed. It was only 3mm thick, obviously not tempered and downright dangerous to have in the home. Got a refund, eventually.

Then started think about granite, maybe a chopping board, and then the nice Mr Google pointed me at a granite worktop stone mason about 10 miles from me. I messaged them and explained my inner flat surface desires and dimensional requirements. They said "pop along and we'll probably find something in our skip you can have" And I did just that yesterday and came home with this:

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It's Baltic Brown granite, 410 x 460 x 25 mm, smooth and flat as something that's really quite smooth and flat - they gave it to me  😀

Some days really do work out better than others.

 

  • Voron FTW! 3
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6 hours ago, EricD said:

Yes, so colours. I hadn't thought about much, if at all. But you folks are really creative with colour choices. Then I found the Colour Configurator. Wow. So I've now bought some eSun ABS+ Fire Engine Red and Natural, as well as the black and Sunlu blue. Thinking something like:

image.thumb.png.2f28effee4473db1fbaf27ba14ab1325.png

But with a blue top hat and black tensioner/nuts. Now having fun.😊

Love the color scheme. But then I am partial to Blue and Red. 

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Great score on the granite slab! That will get you a nice surface to square the frame up on.

For printing, I found the feet and skirts were the hardest. I printed my Trident on my Mini+ and those were the parts I struggled with warping. I printed at 250 hot end and 100 bed (max for the Mini). I put its box over it as a draft shield and chamber; that turned out to be a good balance for heat--kept things warm enough to print well but not so hot as to soften the PETG printer parts and cause creep. Now, for the big parts, I put down a layer of glue stick and sliced the parts with an 8-9mm brim. Oh, and I used a smooth plate for all the parts. That solved the issue for me.

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1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Great score on the granite slab! That will get you a nice surface to square the frame up on.

For printing, I found the feet and skirts were the hardest. I printed my Trident on my Mini+ and those were the parts I struggled with warping. I printed at 250 hot end and 100 bed (max for the Mini). I put its box over it as a draft shield and chamber; that turned out to be a good balance for heat--kept things warm enough to print well but not so hot as to soften the PETG printer parts and cause creep. Now, for the big parts, I put down a layer of glue stick and sliced the parts with an 8-9mm brim. Oh, and I used a smooth plate for all the parts. That solved the issue for me.

 

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Just now, EricD said:
1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Great score on the granite slab! That will get you a nice surface to square the frame up on.

For printing, I found the feet and skirts were the hardest. I printed my Trident on my Mini+ and those were the parts I struggled with warping. I printed at 250 hot end and 100 bed (max for the Mini). I put its box over it as a draft shield and chamber; that turned out to be a good balance for heat--kept things warm enough to print well but not so hot as to soften the PETG printer parts and cause creep. Now, for the big parts, I put down a layer of glue stick and sliced the parts with an 8-9mm brim. Oh, and I used a smooth plate for all the parts. That solved the issue for me.

Couldn't believe my luck with the granite. The guy, disdainfully dismissed a quart offset as "man made", "but this", he said stroking it quite affectionately, "is how it came out of the earth!". Big hand shakes.

Yes, I hadn't noticed how bad my feet and skirts were (have I got the right Forum here 🤔 ) . I reprinted the feet yesterday and they came our great with the Sun ABS, which I think is trickier than the Sun ABS+. I'm still contemplating which colour to do the skirts in, and whether to use the doubletrouble mod to incorporate the display in the front skirt. Magigoo is my new best friend, expensive but so clean, grippy, releasable and easy to clean.

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On 6/10/2022 at 7:37 AM, EricD said:

Couldn't believe my luck with the granite. The guy, disdainfully dismissed a quart offset as "man made", "but this", he said stroking it quite affectionately, "is how it came out of the earth!". Big hand shakes.

😆 Well, quartz countertops ARE man made. For our purposes it doesn't matter which. For counters, well, whichever takes your fancy I guess. My own counters are granite and lovely. His reaction is quite amusing.

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  • 2 months later...

Well back in the saddle again. I pretty well took July & August off from building and printing. Stuff in the garden and house, plus mega batch cooking was needed. Plus the two heatwaves here in the East of England made printing, especially ABS, rather jolly warm 😅

I started up again a few weeks ago by trying out the Prusa satin steel sheet that I had bought when ABS printing was seemingly tough - it's absolutely bloody marvellous! No need for any Magigoo, and brims only needed for really challenging bits, in fact I've reprinted few bits where the the bottom of the print faces outward (e.g. the cowling) to get a better finish. So easy that I'm going to make a "proper" enclosure for my MK3S using the Lack table design , slightly altered, so that I can print ABS for pleasure, and the velcro on my light tent is getting a bit frayed.

Anyway, I've printed all the bits for the Voron now, printed all the bits for the Lack Enclosure too, and am now going through the manual and inserting as many heat insets as I can before I get too bored - also good way to review the build. Linear rails are all nicely cleaned and greased, so let the real fun commence. I'm going to take it at a walking pace and hopefully enjoy the journey.

And, I also got the Kirigami bed - seems a very popular upgrade and much, much easier to put in at the beginning.

Oh yes, and I've also printed doubletrouble's V0_skirt_mod with built in display, into which I've cut and pasted a Lan socket into the back skirt. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So far so good. I found the jigs I'd printed a bit vague on the z axis positioning, so spent a long time with callipers to get the distancing accurate. The Kirigami bed mount is next, probably early next week. I have lined it up and the all the holes do seem to be in line. Those M2 x 4 bolts are tiny, and looks like it might an interesting struggle to get 8 of them in. The coating on the bed has made the holes a bit tight, so maybe loosen them up first. All hints welcome!

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