Project 24: Voron 2.4 300mm 'Knuba 3Dubba' - Siboor Aug 2023 Cartographer Kit

[PFarm]

14 minutes ago, Manux said:

To be honest it's been so long since I've done this mod I don't remember sorry! Maybe @mvdveer can help with this?

@PFarm Any idea about this ? How much is too much inside of the plastic part ?

 

[Manux]

X-Axis

Was also easy. Here there is again the problem with the pinned version. That is very hard to spot as there is a hole missing on the part because of the pin. Look as the part orientation. I figured it out quite quickly but it was a bit of a head scratcher. What helps is that the first two screws in the manual are now pins. If you use the PIN Mod of course

Finished it looks something like this:

The tolerances are quite tight but its ok.

See you later So far its a very fun build and i ha not a single phase where i needed a day or so to troubleshoot.

[Manux]

2 minutes ago, PFarm said:

18 minutes ago, Manux said:

To be honest it's been so long since I've done this mod I don't remember sorry! Maybe @mvdveer can help with this?

@PFarm Any idea about this ? How much is too much inside of the plastic part ?

Expand  

No worries. Its an easy fix if it should give me grief with the gantry racking later on.

[Manux]

Belting A/B

This as a scary part for me because everybody is fretting about perfect belt lengh to the teeth but no one explains exactly why..

Anyhow i did lengh the belt to spec so to speak.

A/B Belts:

just half the Belt. It should be nearly equal in length now.  If you halved the belt, then lay it on a flat table and make sue you start with the pre cut ends. Then align the pre cut parts teeth by teeth and tape them down with duct tape.

Not just follow the belts to the end end then use a scalpel knive to cut them to exact teeth length.

Z Belts

Same thing, half them. Then half every one of the two. Align all 4 on a table and see which is the shortest in teeth. Now cut all other ones till the as short as the shortest one. Again align the teeth first and tape it down.

Siboor belt leghts:

With a 300 Voron i got around 10cm excess belt on all belts. While not excessive its enough to pull them by hand and or pliers.

Edited December 21, 2024 by Manux

[Manux]

Belting A/B - Installation

I opted to do this step ahead of time and not when the gantry is flying  as it gives you more access to the gantry not doing inside the cube.

So i skipped ahead and did it like in the manual. Was quite easy. Got it correct the first time with the belt paths.

Important: I went with the CNC Version of the belt holder on the Extruder. This costs like 10 Dollars extra and can be ordered in the Siboor shop when you buy the printer.

I felt more compy with actual metal clamps holding the belts.

I manged to get 40 teeth spare, or about 10cm in the end.

Here are some pics:

Here is the end result with the excess belt:

 

[Manux]

Hanging the Gantry

This was quite straight forward.

I used duct tape to secure the gantry.

I used the image from the BIFI Idlers to see where to align the belts. Next just like in the manual. I attached the belts beforehand on the underside as this is easier than hanging it and then doing it.

Side note: Make SURE you got enough of the red belt clamps. You need the shorter ones and only two longer ones. I got too much of the  longer ones and they don't fit. Then i sanded down one edge but it leads to early binding etc. Make sure you go the corrects parts! And enough of them. Needed to print a new part on my old Prusa MK3. (Don't sell your printer before you have a running voron :)

Pro Tip: Just print the belt clamps with the 2 cutouts for the belts. Better friction and easy storage of excess belt.

The manual was really good here so it was a breeze.

Close ups:

 

 

Duct tape to the rescue:

Edited December 21, 2024 by Manux

[Manux]

Z joints - GE5C Mod

Now this was a bit challenging. We wanted to replace all 4 corners with the slim version. But only one screw would fit. 20mm is just ver very short to screw in. We opted to shorten the 40mm screws from the Sibooor kit that would be used for the original mount. We shortend it to 23mm. Turned out to be perfect.

With these new screws screwing them in was quite easy. But we made new screws for it

The mount itself is an engineering marvel like the whole printer to be honest. With the GE5C the gantry can still tilt but its firmly screwed in. Its amazing!

To build the mod itself we just used the pics on the voron mod site.

What was not so obvious was that we had to remove the m5 screw from the gantry to fix the GE5C into place. Also if you have belt groves stick out from the mounting clamp as i did, you have to trim those to be flush.

Here are some pictures of our endeavors:

Mounted on the frame:

 Pro Tip: Turn the Voron upside down for easier screwing...

Edited December 21, 2024 by Manux

[Manux]

De-Racking the Gantry

We tried to de rack it but it turned out is was not really racked. Everything is smooth. We took good care while building it and the Siboor parts are just perfect to spec.

What can i tell you: We followed the De-Racking video and there was only a tiny bit of racking in the left back corner. I mean its like the last 3mm till it hits the part. This is way out of the print range. We tried to fix this as best as possible and now its like 1mm slightly racked. But after 20 min the said we live with this. Due to the y endstop its not likely that this position will be hit anyway as the mount for this endstop is like 5-10mm tick and so the beam should stop before this anyway. We will see.

Other than that it was a very smooth experience. No wandering of the extruder holder and everything was very smooth.

I'm very happy with the parts from Siboor so far. I think with the de - racking we can see the first real test of the precision of the parts and the squareness of the frame. I'm therefor very happy with our build process and with the Siboor parts.

 

[Manux]

Galileo2 and Hotend

Sorry i stopped building for a while for personal reasons but im back on it and im at the wireing right now. So i think i will keep gonging now till it is finished

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This was the most finicky part of the printer to build.

It was ok in the end with the Galielo Manual and the CW2 manual. For clairty it was good to take a look into CW2 how things should fit.

Stuff to Note: 

- I forgot to print some parts for the LED light inside the stealhburner....

- I used thermal paste for the hotend to make it more heat conductable.

- I did not print the Galileo2 Parts i had them printed. I did not trust my Prusa with some of the finer parts for it.

- Due to static buildup on the filament when it runs trough a PTFE tube it can lead to damage to your steppers, there is an exelect thread on github if you want to know more. However easiest solution is to not use a long PTFE tube for the filament and also ground your E motor for extra safety. Thats what i did on the pics there the wire comes out from the motor.

- I also used a latch with a 5v Fan inside. To cool down the EBB board. You can grab 5v from the EBB itselp from the "Probe" connector.

-> https://www.printables.com/model/680592-galileo-2-2507-fan-cover-for-sb2209sb2240

The wires are to perfect length tho from Siboor. So that was cool!

There is not much to note other than the Parts do not seem to fit together at first and i had to watch some youtube vids to get how to attach the G2 to the Hotend part.

I did not use the Stealthburner Hotend part where the hotend actually sits as it would blow on the heatbreak of the hotend and this could lead to clogs. There is a better version on printables.  I used this one https://www.printables.com/model/883286-stealthburner-printhead-for-dragon-hf but there is also this one: https://www.printables.com/model/625623-phaetus-dragon-hf-printhead-mount-for-stealthburne

Also figureing out how to attach alll this to the CNC mount as it looks so different but the meachnics are nearly the same.

For the cable sleeve and the CAN Bus Cable holder i printed this: https://www.printables.com/model/1087611-galileo2-btt-ebb-sb2209-usb-v10-cable-strain-relie

Well it took some time and it was quite a while back when i did it so i dont remember all the details but if you struggle, just reply and i try to remember.

There are some pics tho

Edited June 4 by Manux
pics added

[Manux]

Stealthburner

Was a quite easy to build with the manual. Had some trouble with the correct wireing but nothing major. Fans fitted perfectly.

The LED housing in the middle so to speak was a bit tricky.

Take care while attaching the Front plate to the back. It needs to allign perfectly otherwise you could damage your EBB board...