VzBot 330

[TitusADuxass]

13 minutes ago, Dirk said:

When I wrote that, I was expecting of a whole lot of people to come up with very good arguments to add a CPAP blower on the RPI.

Before I bought the RPi's I mentioned earlier, I thought these 'pc's' as big as your hand were as fake as the microsoft phone that was around a couple of years back.

So I have used a RPi in the bottom side of my 2.4. Before I had connected the blowers, which are stock, 2 pieces, that came with the Fysetc kit, the temperature of RPi was around 50 degrees and during a print of half a day it rose to 60 degrees.

When I have a RPi connected to a phone charger on the couch next to me, the temperature is around 35-40  degrees with mainsail on raspiOS, when it is practically idle.

Since the blowers are connected on the bottom compartment of the 2.4, I barely have to look at the temperatures. At startup the RPi temperature is around 35-40 degrees, but cools down to 30 degrees. When I am actively printing,  it remains between the 34 to 40 degrees.

This is without a cooling, without additional blowers, just the air-ventilation for the 2.4 bottom.

An important extra bit of information is that my printer stands on the floor. Below the floor, is like in most areas here in central holland where it was below water a few hundred years ago, 50 cm - 1 meter of water, which cools off quite well. Sort of a water cooling system

The weather around here, even in may, is bad. We had a storm yesterday and temperatures of 10 degrees max. Luckily during the winter it doesn't get any worse than this!

I can imagine though, that in the desert areas of North America (Texas/Vegas/California) where you live @Penatr8tor and subtropical areas of Australia, the ambient temperature is around 35-40 degrees. And when you put all the members of your printer-farm in a confined area like @mvdveer 

I think it is safe to say that @TitusADuxass does not have much hotter weather then I do, in deeper darker parts of Deutschland. But indeed a simple cool-element, if you have them handy, is NEVER a bad idea 

Dirk, we are normally significantly hotter / colder here than you in the low lands.

+40c is not unheard of, as is -30c.

You're probably correct, but for the sake of 12€ I'll be fitting a passive cooler.

[TitusADuxass]

Today I fitted the belts and did a bit of unnecessary blingage.

[Penatr8tor]

Yup, need the bingage. Very necessary component. 

[TitusADuxass]

And now the fun bit...

 

 

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

And now the fun bit

Said who - EVER!

Well, have FUN!!

[TitusADuxass]

Nil progress made - the sun, darts and MotoGP got in the way. 

[TitusADuxass]

A missing part turned up in the post yesterday.

I can now finish the toolhead.

[Penatr8tor]

So, you went with the Cartographer. Did you go USB or CAN?

[TitusADuxass]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

So, you went with the Cartographer. Did you go USB or CAN?

I went USB.

The Cartographer was the easiest, and quickest,  option. Plus, there's  no import duty involved with parts from China.

[Penatr8tor]

USB is what I would have chosen. You can always convert to CAN if you decide to convert to CAN. 

I like that it has built in ADXL. My (already) old Beacon has no ADXL but... my nozzle ADXL does the trick and it's not like you have to do input shaping a lot.

[Dirk]

4 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Plus,

I can vouch for the service and warranty.

It is looking great!

[Dirk]

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

nozzle ADXL

I have seen the nozzle adxl does not perform different from the cartographer adxl. I have coincidentally a few  comparison graphs.

This is on a V2 350, built from an LDO kit, by a cool farmer

First a comparison between a NOZZLE ADXL and the CARTO ADXL

 

 

and since he was at it and already had bought both the carto-lis2dw and carto-adxl, he compared them too

 

 

This means the ADXL on the nozzle is the same as to the Carto ADXL, and even though LIS2DW gives more information, it is similar to the other ones.

These graphs are very different from measurements on the ADXL on the toolhead, which is on a different location and logically gives different graphs.

for 35$ having a bed scanner and a resonance integrated? or having to screw on an adxl everytime you want to do a resonance test... Its everyone's choice.

and indeed... how often do you use a resonance scanner? I remember I haven't used it ever since I built my printer  But that is me.

 

 

[MrSprinklz]

9 minutes ago, Dirk said:

 

And here we see the LIS2DW Light Show in it's natural Shake&Tune habitat...

[Dirk]

19 minutes ago, MrSprinklz said:

natural Shake&Tune habitat

Well... As I told you before elsewhere shake n tune is not natural. It is a script that interprets. It assumes signals from the inferior adxl chip. That's why it screws up signals from lis2dw. 

So learn to interpret the graphs yourself and you will understand the graphs better.

But considering all that it's not that bad.

I can also share that cartographer will be producing adxl probes only and they have 10% discount on the lis2dw probes. In case you don't care about the integrated resonance chip now is the time to get one.

Edited Tuesday at 06:46 PM by Dirk

[Dirk]

7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Did you go USB or CAN?

On the Cartographer Discord, I have spoken to many people using a Cartographer on their VZBots. They somehow prefer not to use CAN. 

As I understood from them, the vzbot vibrates like a tractor when it is printing, they are afraid of having a toolhead with wires plugged into it. Confirming my opinion of the vzbot engineering 

I have also spoken to VZBot users that did use can with a EBB42 without having any problems with an even lighter toolhead, without the drag of an additional movement-certified-expensive USB cable, printing even faster. 

So if you would want to upgrade to a CAN, it is luckily very simply possible with Cartographer and an EBB42, like @Penatr8tor says.

[Penatr8tor]

6 hours ago, Dirk said:

This means the ADXL on the nozzle is the same as to the Carto ADXL, and even though LIS2DW gives more information, it is similar to the other ones.

That would make sense as they're both measuring from the same general location. One would expect much more accurate results over those using an ADXL that mounts on the top, side or behind the extruder stepper would get. IMHO, I think the biggest benefit of having an ADXL built into the eddy current probe is that it's always there and you're measuring exactly what you already have mounted to your toolhead. The removeable ADXL's, even the nozzle ones, get removed after measuring and that means what you measured isn't the same as what you're actually moving around.

Plus, it's super nice to have it integrated.

[TitusADuxass]

Quick question - where do I connect the Cartographer - to the Pi or to the Mainboard?

The documentation is sadly lacking for this probe.

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass It goes to one of the Pi USB ports.

Once it's plugged in you need to SSH into the pi and install the probe software with git clone.

This is their command string.

cd ~
git clone https://github.com/Cartographer3D/cartographer-klipper.git
chmod +x cartographer-klipper/install.sh
./cartographer-klipper/install.sh

Then add the following to your moonraker.conf

[update_manager cartographer]
type: git_repo
path: ~/cartographer-klipper
channel: dev
origin: https://github.com/Cartographer3D/cartographer-klipper.git
env: ~/klippy-env/bin/python
requirements: requirements.txt
install_script: install.sh
is_system_service: False
managed_services: klipper
info_tags:
  desc=Cartographer Probe

 

Next you query the probe to get the device ID. and copy the result using...

ls /dev/serial/by-id/

You'll probably get three devices. Your MCU, the probe and also the ADLX that's on the probe. You'll need to plug in the ID for the probe in the code that goes into your printer.cfg below.

[cartographer]
serial:
#   Path to the serial port for the Cartographer device. Typically has the form
#   /dev/serial/by-id/usb-cartographer_cartographer_...
#   
#   If you are using the CAN Bus version, replace serial: with canbus_uuid: and add the UUID.
#   Example: canbus_uuid: 1283as878a9sd
#
speed: 40.
#   Z probing dive speed.
lift_speed: 5.
#   Z probing lift speed.
backlash_comp: 0.5
#   Backlash compensation distance for removing Z backlash before measuring
#   the sensor response.
x_offset: 0.
#   X offset of cartographer from the nozzle.
y_offset: 21.1
#   Y offset of cartographer from the nozzle.
trigger_distance: 2.
#   cartographer trigger distance for homing.
trigger_dive_threshold: 1.5
#   Threshold for range vs dive mode probing. Beyond `trigger_distance +
#   trigger_dive_threshold` a dive will be used.
trigger_hysteresis: 0.006
#   Hysteresis on trigger threshold for untriggering, as a percentage of the
#   trigger threshold.
cal_nozzle_z: 0.1
#   Expected nozzle offset after completing manual Z offset calibration.
cal_floor: 0.1
#   Minimum z bound on sensor response measurement.
cal_ceil:5.
#   Maximum z bound on sensor response measurement.
cal_speed: 1.0
#   Speed while measuring response curve.
cal_move_speed: 10.
#   Speed while moving to position for response curve measurement.
default_model_name: default
#   Name of default cartographer model to load.
mesh_main_direction: x
#   Primary travel direction during mesh measurement.
#mesh_overscan: -1
#   Distance to use for direction changes at mesh line ends. Omit this setting
#   and a default will be calculated from line spacing and available travel.
mesh_cluster_size: 1
#   Radius of mesh grid point clusters.
mesh_runs: 2
#   Number of passes to make during mesh scan.

Mine looks like this...

All of this can be found here, Cartographer Doc's

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

[TitusADuxass]

Thanks, I found the Cartographers Docs, but couldn't see anything about the USB connection. Lots of info about the CAN setup but not much on the USB side.

I figured that it must go to the Pi, otherwise the plug would have to be removed.

[TitusADuxass]

I got the hotside wired up and thought I'd do a voltage check before connecting the PSUs to anything - I managed to put the PSUs in the wrong way round - doh!! 

PSUs swapped and all is well.

It pays to check.

 

[Penatr8tor]

Looks good. Just a reminder... Make sure that the neutral of the two PSU's are connected.

That gap between the electronics and the WAGO's looks like a really good place to stick a piece of cable channel.

[Dirk]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

figured that it must go to the Pi

Correct. No other place to stick it into which would work.

It is flashed with the latest version, so once you have set up klipper  you just run the install script from the docs site and follow instructions to add it to your printer.cfg and it will work.

[TitusADuxass]

22 minutes ago, Dirk said:

Correct. No other place to stick it into which would work.

It is flashed with the latest version, so once you have set up klipper  you just run the install script from the docs site and follow instructions to add it to your printer.cfg and it will work.

I haven't flashed anything yet, that's my last step.

[Dirk]

18 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

that's my last step.

ok. when you are there, I will tell you there is no need to flash cartographer. 

[TitusADuxass]

Progress update.

I didn't like the wobbly mainboard Tophat rail mount, so I swapped them out for a Voron Tophat rail mount.

I tried to fit heatserts to the fan mount legs as they wouldn't hold an M3 screw tight enough.

Miserable failure!!

So off with its legs and a new one knocked up on Onshape.

Toolhead is nice and tidy.

As is the umbilical

And I'm slowly getting there with the main loom. I had to lengthen the wires for the CPAP fan and extruder motor.

There will be a couple more that need lengthening.