VzBot 330

[Penatr8tor]

@Dirk I confirm with @TitusADuxass That is the carriage but the beacon and I assume the cartographer mount to the bottom of the printed cooling fan duct like below.

[Dirk]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I assume the cartographer mount

Nice blue

Yes. Cartographers maker has been extremely smart by copying the form factor of Beacon D. I thought I saw the holes of the latest version were a bit wider. If I have seen wrong, then correct me please.

[Penatr8tor]

20 minutes ago, Dirk said:

Nice blue

Yes. Cartographers maker has been extremely smart by copying the form factor of Beacon D. I thought I saw the holes of the latest version were a bit wider. If I have seen wrong, then correct me please.

Yes... the blue looks good on the VzBoT

...and don't worry about being incorrect. We're all incorrect from time to time especially me. I'm an expert at being wrong. 

[Dirk]

13 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

the blue looks good on the VzBoT

I must admit that box looks great. 

But not as great as your 2.4 with all metal cnc upgraded parts and 12 inch custom enclosed touch screen

And as I said, this is almost the same picture that @TitusADuxass showed. He is almost there!

And who says I am afraid of being wrong? Learning by erring is my standard mode of learning  

[Penatr8tor]

@Dirk Well... as you know. the mechanical assembly is the easy part. Running all the wires is what takes all the time. 

I think I need a cover for the fan module. Hmmmm 

[Dirk]

2 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

think I need a cover for the fan module

MODDING TIME!!!!!!!!!

 

That looks really very good. As if it was 'engineered' like that

And you make it look even easier. It is weekend, so I am sure @TitusADuxass will be at it

 

[TitusADuxass]

11 hours ago, Dirk said:

 

It is weekend, so I am sure @TitusADuxass will be at it

...and I may be doing something on VzBot as well.

[TitusADuxass]

Next question: do I need to buy a heatsink (active or passive) for the Pi4?

[Dirk]

3 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

buy

No

[TitusADuxass]

Haven't done much today as I got distracted by my v0.1.

Started a print job for the exhaust filter fan housing and then realised that there's not a lot of ABS on that roll. It'll be touch and go. If it runs out, I'll finish it in red.

I also had another go at printing the upper duct for the print head. My v2.4 simply does not like this job, no matter how slow or what I do with the cooling fan speed it still comes out crepe.

I did wiring up the three end stop switches. I didn't like the supplied wire, so I reused some of my v2.4 wiring loom that got deleted when I went CANBus.

Now this job did take me back in time, in 1979 I was taught how to so(L)der at the RAF School of Technical Training. I haven't forgotten how to do it, my hands aren't as steady as they were back then. The Antex soldering iron was bought at about the same time so that we could hone our skills in the evening. We had to sit a test - we all passed apart from Hutch who managed to solder the insulation together when joining two wires - a first for most of the instructors.

It also reminded me to find small heat gun, mine is a bit of an overkill for small jobs.

 

[TitusADuxass]

I knew it would be close.

It ran out of black at layer 188 of 190, I did a hot filament swap (i.e. no pause) and it should end well.

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Next question: do I need to buy a heatsink (active or passive) for the Pi4?

I know @Dirk says no but, I've had a few over-temp klipper shutdowns from the Pi getting too hot so from now on I just get either a cooler or I stick a heat sink on it.

I bought one of the many heat sink kits on Amazon and it only takes a minute to stick a few on.

[TitusADuxass]

4 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I know @Dirk says no but, I've had a few over-temp klipper shutdowns from the Pi getting too hot so from now on I just get either a cooler or I stick a heat sink on it.

I bought one of the many heat sink kits on Amazon and it only takes a minute to stick a few on.

I've got a number of 2209 heatsinks in my stash, I'll use them, if I can find the right place for them. Then again an active heatsink only going to sting me for 10 yoyos.

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

It also reminded me to find small heat gun, mine is a bit of an overkill for small jobs.

I got one of these cheapo heat guns from, you guessed it, Amazon  It's a little on the weak side but I think that may be a good thing as you're less likely to melt or burn something. It works well enough for shrinking tubes and erasing white marks from prints.

As for your failed CPAP snorkel... Use a brim. I hate using them but there are times... if you know what I mean. Also, it's a pretty weak part as well. It has some pretty thin walls. I painted mine with some acetone to strengthen it up a bit and to prevent cracking.

[Penatr8tor]

1 minute ago, TitusADuxass said:

I've got a number of 2209 heatsinks in my stash, I'll use them, if I can find the right place for them. Then again an active heatsink only going to sting me for 10 yoyos.

I would say... be careful which active one you buy... some of them use the power pins on the PIO.

[TitusADuxass]

1 minute ago, Penatr8tor said:

I got one of these cheapo heat guns from, you guessed it, Amazon  It's a little on the weak side but I think that may be a good thing as you're less likely to melt or burn something. It works well enough for shrinking tubes and erasing white marks from prints.

As for your failed CPAP snorkel... Use a brim. I hate using them but there are times... if you know what I mean. Also, it's a pretty weak part as well. It has some pretty thin walls. I painted mine with some acetone to strengthen it up a bit and to prevent cracking.

I've now got that in my Amazon basket - thanks heads-up.

Re the snorkel, I must be printing it in the incorrect orientation - Orca always stands it on the end.

[TitusADuxass]

2 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I would say... be careful which active one you buy... some of them use the power pins on the PIO.

Good tip!! 

Most of the low cost ones do seem to use the PIO pins.

I'll just go for a passive one.

[Penatr8tor]

I don't remember how I oriented the snorkel, but I loaded it into Orca and oriented it like in the image below. I'm using manual supports and I painted a stripe along the bottom of the tube. I also use traditional supports because they are better for this kind of part.

[TitusADuxass]

12 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I don't remember how I oriented the snorkel, but I loaded it into Orca and oriented it like in the image below. I'm using manual supports and I painted a stripe along the bottom of the tube. I also use traditional supports because they are better for this kind of part.

I'm just trying that orientation, once I work out how to paint supports I'll be GTG.

[claudermilk]

The right tool for the job. Brims, classic support, tree supports. Use what is appropriate for the print. 

[claudermilk]

3 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I'm just trying that orientation, once I work out how to paint supports I'll be GTG.

Easy-peasy. 

Select your model, then select this tool:

I prefer to turn on the overhangs only as shown, and mostly use the circle brush. If you highlight overhangs, that acts as a mask so you can be sloppy with your brushing.

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass While you're printing parts... This is a good one to print.

I designed this shelf that supports the CPAP tube. Mine was drooping below the bed surface on prints with a low Z height and it ended working really well. It screws in without modification with a couple screws and hammerhead T nuts. The one I have installed was printed from CF PLA and is beginning to show signs of creep so I'm printing a new one. Maintenance! 

VzBoT CPAP Shelf.stl

[TitusADuxass]

13 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Easy-peasy. 

Select your model, then select this tool:

I prefer to turn on the overhangs only as shown, and mostly use the circle brush. If you highlight overhangs, that acts as a mask so you can be sloppy with your brushing.

Got it thanks.

[TitusADuxass]

5 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

@TitusADuxass While you're printing parts... This is a good one to print.

I designed this shelf that supports the CPAP tube. Mine was drooping below the bed surface on prints with a low Z height and it ended working really well. It screws in without modification with a couple screws and hammerhead T nuts. The one I have installed was printed from CF PLA and is beginning to show signs of creep so I'm printing a new one. Maintenance! 

VzBoT CPAP Shelf.stl 190.9 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks, that's on the print list. 

[Dirk]

39 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Pi getting too hot

When I wrote that, I was expecting of a whole lot of people to come up with very good arguments to add a CPAP blower on the RPI.

Before I bought the RPi's I mentioned earlier, I thought these 'pc's' as big as your hand were as fake as the microsoft phone that was around a couple of years back.

So I have used a RPi in the bottom side of my 2.4. Before I had connected the blowers, which are stock, 2 pieces, that came with the Fysetc kit, the temperature of RPi was around 50 degrees and during a print of half a day it rose to 60 degrees.

When I have a RPi connected to a phone charger on the couch next to me, the temperature is around 35-40  degrees with mainsail on raspiOS, when it is practically idle.

Since the blowers are connected on the bottom compartment of the 2.4, I barely have to look at the temperatures. At startup the RPi temperature is around 35-40 degrees, but cools down to 30 degrees. When I am actively printing,  it remains between the 34 to 40 degrees.

This is without a cooling, without additional blowers, just the air-ventilation for the 2.4 bottom.

An important extra bit of information is that my printer stands on the floor. Below the floor, is like in most areas here in central holland where it was below water a few hundred years ago, 50 cm - 1 meter of water, which cools off quite well. Sort of a water cooling system

The weather around here, even in may, is bad. We had a storm yesterday and temperatures of 10 degrees max. Luckily during the winter it doesn't get any worse than this!

I can imagine though, that in the desert areas of North America (Texas/Vegas/California) where you live @Penatr8tor and subtropical areas of Australia, the ambient temperature is around 35-40 degrees. And when you put all the members of your printer-farm in a confined area like @mvdveer does, then the temperature can build up to more than the 60 degrees.   

I think it is safe to say that @TitusADuxass does not have much hotter weather then I do, in deeper darker parts of Deutschland. But indeed a simple cool-element, if you have them handy, is NEVER a bad idea