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Voron Build Tools Mega-List - 2024 Edition

Demosth

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Demosth Grand Master

Demosth

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Same Thread: Updated for 2023!

Researching, purchasing the printer parts of the build list and waiting for parts is only half of the battle. While many Voron builders have many of these tools on hand, and we hop most have familiarity with soldering, there are some tools that make the job MUCH easier, safer, and provide professional quality results. 

Some of the tools needed to make your Voron build easier!

This is the Mega List for all the recommended or required tools for your Voron build.

First and foremost, crimper are really important for your Voron build. With the amount of wiring required, you will thank yourself to invest in high quality crimping tools. Frequently users ask if tinning and soldering joints is an alternate option. While it may work short term, this is a much greater risk of the joint failing. Typically this is due to the stress of movement, or weakening from the heat created inside the enclosure and around the hot-end during printing.

Wire Crimpers
At least 1 Required
Don't skimp if at all possible, the Voron build requires a bunch of crimping, this tool will last years! You will require at least one of these, if your doing only 1 build the 3220M will work - If you intend on doing anything more, the the general consensus in the community as a whole highly suggests the Engineer PA-09 as a great best value option.

Ferrule Crimper
Optional (This can be done with non-specific tools, but be prepared to damage end frequently, and spend time cutting and re-stripping wires)

Terminal Crimper
Optional (This can be done with non-specific tools, but be prepared to damage end frequently, and spend time cutting and re-stripping wires - only 1 needed)

  • IWISS 1442L - $33 - Open Barrel Terminal Crimping Tool 
  • Titan 11477 - $20 - Open Barrel Terminal Crimping Tool 

Wire Stripper
At least 1 Required (Technically optional, but don't nick wires, or cut your thumb! )
For Voron Electronics and builds you will need a wire stripper capable of stripping 16-26 GA wire, make sure your stripper is capable of stripping thin 26 gauge wires.

Screwdrivers / Allen Wrenches 
Allen Set and Screwdrivers are  Required

Soldering Iron / Heat Gun
At least 1 Required
A soldering iron is also required for the heatset inserts. Any soldering iron will work for the entire Voron build, you do not need to go overkill here.

Multi-Meter
At least 1 required (Technically optional, but a multi-meter makes setup and troubleshooting MUCH easier! )

Measuring Tools
Optional

Specialty Tools
Diagonal cutter required others optional

Printable Tools
Optional

Tape
Optional

  • Kapton Tape - $8 - Optional, protects electronics for accidental shots, heat resistant 
  • Spectape ST501 - $15 - Double Sided Tape (Door mounting)

Grease
Optional (Highly recommended to preserve accuracy and increase longevity of your printer)

 

If you have any recommendations or if I missed a few required items, please post below and I will update the list to include other options!

 

 

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mvdveer
mvdveer

Well another to add to the list are the Knipex Plier wrench for inserting neodymium magnets into the printed parts. Saw this on Steve's builds and @Buurman re-enforced their use. So early Xmas present

Penatr8tor
Penatr8tor

I'm going to add this to the list of must have tools... I've had this little tapered hole reamer/deburr tool for ages. The acute taper lets you deburr inside of a counterbore which is usually rea

Demosth
Demosth

Same Thread: Updated for 2023! Researching, purchasing the printer parts of the build list and waiting for parts is only half of the battle. While many Voron builders have many of these tools on

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Demosth Grand Master

Demosth

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Thank you for this response, I think those are both great options I left off the list - Do you have an example of tweezers you have used that you would consider "great"?

I typicall yuse "forceps" https://amzn.to/3zD4hON when soldering so i can keep my finger out of the way and more easily manage wires. however i can see that they might be too big for some areas.

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Simon2.4 Experienced

Simon2.4

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I suggest one addition to your list: A pane of glass! a glass tabletop will do and where I'm from they can be found in various sizes for a few dollars at thrift stores that sell furniture. It makes a very flat surface to build a square frame and base measurements off of.

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Simon2.4 Experienced

Simon2.4

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This was my MVP tool for my voron build! Along with my glass tabletop, I used it to align all my rails, set my Z offset and get it right on first try, and many other little QC steps along the way. It was worth every penny and will serve me well in many projects to come (if I don't drop it too often)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001PTGBRG/
71v33cNd9kL._AC_SL1500_.thumb.jpg.75fb62c8057b484dda4c1f26f081d493.jpg

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SteveThatcher Enthusiast

SteveThatcher

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The missing tool... I have worked with threaded metal inserts for years. The one thing I have found indispensable is a simple to make tool that allows you to pull inserts out of plastic and help with getting them started to install.

The one shown is for 3mm inserts. I used an aluminum rod, drilled and tapped a hole on the end, and cut the head off a 3mm screw to put in the end. I thread the insert on a few turns and place the insert at the hole to be "threaded". I use a old Weller soldering iron with a conical tip, and finally the non-blade end of a large hobby knife (1/2" round flat surface) to flatten out any plastic ridge formed.  I also heat up inserts and then use the tool to pull out ones to recycle (I know, cheap parts but I don't like to waste them).

metric_tool_5x5.jpg

Edited by SteveThatcher
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Demosth Grand Master

Demosth

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On 4/19/2022 at 6:07 PM, 3dPmamsih said:

The one shown is for 3mm inserts. I used an aluminum rod, drilled and tapped a hole on the end, and cut the head off a 3mm screw to put in the end. I thread the insert on a few turns and place the insert at the hole to be "threaded". I use a old Weller soldering iron with a conical tip, and finally the non-blade end of a large hobby knife (1/2" round flat surface) to flatten out any plastic ridge formed.  I also heat up inserts and then use the tool to pull out ones to recycle (I know, cheap parts but I don't like to waste them).

great idea, thanks for sharing!

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smirk Mentor

smirk

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Just noticed thread locker in that picture...looks a bit like locktite. Having never used threadlocker (with 3D printed parts) until I started building a Voron, I had absolutely no idea that the stuff melted/attacked thermoplastic. Or to be more precise all the anaerobic stuff seems to eat plastic.

It's a real pain trying to find something in the UK that either isn't essentially super-glue or standard plastic-eating thread-locker. Don't know why, from the searching I've done anything billed as plastic safe (and not simply tamper-evidence paint marking) appears to be shipped from the States at great cost. Clearly we Brits cannot be trusted 🤔

I have found something called ThreeBond 1401B which seems to be plastic safe (certainly has not degraded the ABS I tried it on.....so far) as well as being a locking agent. I plan to give that a go on my (incredibly slow) Voron 0.1 build.

Not sure if others have a solution, or is everyone simply going to point out they're not kak-handed sausage fingers and can neatly apply the thread-locker to only the metal parts ....

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PiEyed Apprentice

PiEyed

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On 6/20/2022 at 7:12 AM, smirk said:

Just noticed thread locker in that picture...looks a bit like locktite. Having never used threadlocker (with 3D printed parts) until I started building a Voron, I had absolutely no idea that the stuff melted/attacked thermoplastic. Or to be more precise all the anaerobic stuff seems to eat plastic.

It's a real pain trying to find something in the UK that either isn't essentially super-glue or standard plastic-eating thread-locker. Don't know why, from the searching I've done anything billed as plastic safe (and not simply tamper-evidence paint marking) appears to be shipped from the States at great cost. Clearly we Brits cannot be trusted 🤔

I have found something called ThreeBond 1401B which seems to be plastic safe (certainly has not degraded the ABS I tried it on.....so far) as well as being a locking agent. I plan to give that a go on my (incredibly slow) Voron 0.1 build.

Not sure if others have a solution, or is everyone simply going to point out they're not kak-handed sausage fingers and can neatly apply the thread-locker to only the metal parts ....

I've used nail polish for years.  Never had a problem.  To remove a nut a q-tip with nail polish remover or acetone works great.  The acetone and nail polish remover will melt ABS for just a few seconds but hardens back up quickly.  If I don't want it visible I use clear nail polish.  Most of the time I use a color of nail polish other than blue or red so I can distinguish it from temporary bond and permanent bond thread locked.

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PiEyed Apprentice

PiEyed

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A good set of allen wrenches is always handy to have available for working in short or narrow gaps.  For the actual printer build I prefer a descent ball end metric driver set like these https://amzn.to/44vIqsb (Bondhus 10686 1.5-5mm Balldriver Screwdrivers, 6 Piece Set)

This link keeps coming up to WalMart but they are available on Amazon also.  Can't figure out how to get the link to go to Amazon.

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Urshurak776 Rookie

Urshurak776

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On 6/23/2022 at 11:43 AM, PiEyed said:

A good set of allen wrenches is always handy to have available for working in short or narrow gaps.  For the actual printer build I prefer a descent ball end metric driver set like these https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10686-1-5-5mm-Balldriver-Screwdrivers/dp/B0006O4AD8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2DDI1PJYX47OT&keywords=bondhus+ball+end+hex+driver

This link keeps coming up to WalMart but they are available on Amazon also.  Can't figure out how to get the link to go to Amazon.

Just bought these!  Greg from Greg’s Maker Corner on YouTube used these to assemble is V0.  

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mvdveer Grand Master

mvdveer

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7 hours ago, Urshurak776 said:

just bought these!

Great set of ball wrenches. Just don't use them to torque the bolts as the heads may break - rather use an Allen key for this purpose.

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Flying Dutchman Rookie

Flying Dutchman

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On 6/20/2022 at 3:12 PM, smirk said:

Just noticed thread locker in that picture...looks a bit like locktite. Having never used threadlocker (with 3D printed parts) until I started building a Voron, I had absolutely no idea that the stuff melted/attacked thermoplastic. Or to be more precise all the anaerobic stuff seems to eat plastic.

Very much the case... It's one ot the things you learn when flying quads, never to use treadlocker when mounting props (most are made of PP)

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Penatr8tor Mentor

Penatr8tor

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I would add 123 Blocks to the list. 123 blocks are, as the name implies, 1"x2"x3" in size (metric version is 25x50x75mm I believe).

  • Size within +/- .0001"
  • Flatness and parallelism within .0001"
  • Pairs are matched to a tolerance of 0.0001"
  • Squareness on all sides is 0.0003" per inch

There's 3/8" dia thru holes in them and 5 of them are threaded with 3/8-16 threads. This lets to attach two or more of them of them together to make a right angle square, riser, etc.

Amazon has them for around $20-$40 - 123 Blocks

Below you can see how I used them to perfectly align the cantilevered X Axis arm to the Z Axis slide. 

X-Axis-01.thumb.jpg.37e00e9dfa4eee4a7922ff04279282bd.jpg

They also work great for frame building. Clamp one to the inside corner of two extrusions and torque down the screws to make a perfectly square corner. Way easier than using a square. 

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mvdveer Grand Master

mvdveer

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After watching Steve's build on the TAP, I decided to purchase a set of the Engineer Pa-06 wire strippers. Could not find any that would deliver within the time frame requested but got a set of the Engineer PA05 - Wire strippers with integrated crimper.

Strips 18 - 30 AWG (1.45 - 0.4mm) and crimps 0.3 - 1.25mm connector terminals and 0.5 - 2.00mm bare terminals

And as per package and tool - made in Japan, not Taiwan. Maybe I will yet to come to enjoy crimping.image.thumb.jpeg.c7ba9c3643590cef97fb294302ca6ac5.jpeg

 

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Penatr8tor Mentor

Penatr8tor

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9 hours ago, atrushing said:

I got them back when Radio Shack was still a thing so I hope the quality has held up with the newer ones.

 

Yep, Got a pair back in 2009-ish. Still use them today but most of the time I use either one like this.

image.png.9f5b6863deb5c5e1ce9bea76fdb89630.png

...or one like this.

image.png.9d464187c0eea1062935113a1666363a.png

The black one works really well. You can set the red stop and strip everything the same length. Better yet... you can strip multiple wires at the same time.

Cheap too, well worth the $20... Amazon Link

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