trident Chris' 250 Trident Journey

[claudermilk]

Rebuilt Tap with the latest r8 parts. They have some nice updates to make it better, so now my toolhead is pretty much all up-to-date. These are also much better quality prints than what I had on there (printer was somewhat jury-rigged to get parts printed before).

 

Yes, I know the button head screws are on the wrong side--I fixed that right after taking the pic.

I went back and OCD'ed the belt clamps after the pic--they are now nice and even.

The belt clamps are better done now. I like that there are the two M3x50 screws vertically through the carriage part for added stability (you can see the heads at the bottom of the part).

I re-did my input shaper. Not sure that it's improved, but it is what it is.

 

The worst I've ever seen X here. That said, max accels are 8000/12000 which is the highest I've seen.

I'm also happy with belt tension balance. Being very mindful of how you adjust the four screws on the pin mod parts pays dividends. Can't really ask for better than this:

The printer is now running the probe_accuracy cycles to break in again. Probably not necessary, but it doesn't hurt.

[Penatr8tor]

Well, Hopefully that's gets you printing without issue for a while. Parts look really nice and build looks clean, should work. 

[claudermilk]

Printing well now; the accuracy runs showed around the spec 0.0004 so it's good. I blew through about 0.75kg of PLA the last two days. Back to click print and walk away and come back to excellent quality parts.

I'm going to print up @Buurman's UM2 mod for CW2 because I'm tired of the PTFE tube pushing out all the time. I'm also looking at the elpopo removable door hinges; I like the 270 ones I have, but it would be nice for easier removal swapping between ABS and open air filaments. Gotta have some mods lined up to do, and I'm not going to do ERCF for a while yet. No, I still don't want to even think about touching CAN with a 31.5' pole.

[claudermilk]

It's been a while, time to make changes and break things.

I grabbed the Galileo2 kit from Christmas money, but have been sitting on it for a bit. The printer had an incident with a print job warping up off the bed. The ends of the parts caught the front of the SB and tried to rip it off. Fortunately just the bottom mounts broke along layer lines. It looked ugly but still ran. Fortunately I have several spares, so that is replaced--with a short detour to re-solder broken part fan wiring.

After that the Clockwork2 was acting up, making unhappy noises so I tore it down and rebuilt it. I didn't see anything amiss, but it was happy again after that. However, why have a good, working printer when I have parts to mess it up?

So, I built the Galileo2 and installed it. All seemed well until I tried running the extruder. Then I get this:

TMC 'extruder' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001300e0 s2vsb=1(ShortToSupply_B!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) olb=1(OpenLoad_B!) cs_actual=19

I am guessing it's incorrect wiring order on the motor. I did have  to shorten and re-pin the plug and swap to the smaller connector for the hartk PCB, but I made very sure to retain the color order. It seems like the default on the motor isn't right.

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I’m guessing it's incorrect wiring order on the motor

Your guessing correctly. From memory I think you need to swap the two middle pins. 

[claudermilk]

Thanks. I'll give that a try. Up to this point I've been able to get all the motors wired correctly. I recall seeing others with issues and needing wire swaps, but not exactly what the error or which wires. I didn't want the start swapping randomly & by the time I hit the error my brain was tired.

BTW, the cable chain mount puts it a little bit further away from the tool head PCB than the Clockwork 2 does. I barely have reach with my wire harness; gonna have to loosen things and shift it a bit to more comfortably reach.

[claudermilk]

That was it! Galileo working now and running a test using 0.6 nozzle with 0.3 layers. push a lot of plastic fast.

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

BTW, the cable chain mount puts it a little bit further away from the tool head PCB than the Clockwork 2 does

Another reason to canbus. . You know I won't stop pestering you.

[claudermilk]

Lalalalala! I'm not listening!  ...ooo? Nitehawk? 

So with the 0.6 nozzle the G2 is just off and running. I swapped back to the 0.25 nozzle and it appears I'll have to redo the PA & EM calibrations--the top surfaces were messy. That should be easy.

[claudermilk]

Necroing my own thread here. The Trident has been running along mostly smoothly for a while. Until today.

I ran into some print quality issues a while ago and determined I simply wore out the original 0.4 nozzle; upon inspection the end was all smashed looking. Got a new Revo HF and it was off and running again. Well, a couple of days ago on a big project it started showing those signs again. The now-old HF tip was starting to look smashed, so threw on a spare 0.4 and print quality was back.

Now today the printer is down until I can dig into it a bit. This time the X endstop has failed. It's stuck at triggered, so either the switch is finally dead or the wires are broken somewhere. I'm just going to switch the printer to virtual endstops like the V0.2 since that is working great now that it's dialed in.

The old printer is showing its age with this. Pushing 4300 hours print time now. 

[Penatr8tor]

Yup, same with my 2.4. Things started dying. Heat, friction and motion have a way of wearing things out over time. I'm not mad at the idea of having to refurbish every so often as it keeps the hobby fresh and stretches the building something fun factor without buying another kit.

I just ordered a couple Orbiter Smart Filament sensors and an Obiter 2 extruder from Fabreeko. I would have ordered an Orbitool O2S board but there were none in stock. Have to find one from one of the other vendors.

Mt current refurb plans are...

RatRig V-Core 3.1:

Swap out toolhead and motor mount plastics for new printed updated components.

Add the Orbiter filament sensor.

VzBot 330 AWD:

I'm going to swap out the Hextrudort extruder and Goliath hotend for a more conventional Orbiter with Orbitool O2S and Filament sensor + Rapido 2+ UHF combo. This way I can reduce the amount of cabling being drug around by the toolhead. And I get the benefit of the filament sensors ability to auto load and unload. Plus designing my own cooling duct for the CPAP will be fun.

[claudermilk]

I put off messing with the homing on the Trident because it wasn't broken. Now that it's broken and I have good experience with the V0.2, it seems a natural, logical swap. Fewer mechanical components to wear out (again).

Anyway, I found the walkthrough on the Voron site and have started going through it. I got the jumpers installed, old endstops disconnected, and config files updated. I got X tuned really quickly--that was fairly painless.

When I tried to tune Y the same it threw move out of range errors which confused me for a bit. Then looking at my config, I had changed Y minimum from 0 to 3 for Tap. I reverted to 0 and Y homed. 

So now--fairly painlessly--the Trident is on sensorless homing and back up and running.

[Penatr8tor]

39 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

So now--fairly painlessly--the Trident is on sensorless homing and back up and running.

Nice,

Like Elon says... The best part is no part.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm going to swap out the Hextrudort extruder and Goliath hotend for a more conventional Orbiter with Orbitool O2S and Filament sensor + Rapido 2+ UHF combo.

SNAP!!. Managed to source 2x Orbitoo O2S boards. And I have had enough frustrations loading the hextrudort with filament.

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

designing my own cooling duct for the CPAP will be fun.

Oooh, That I would like to see (and use)  

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

So now--fairly painlessly--the Trident is on sensorless homing and back up and running.

Looks like I have to bite the bullet and go sensorless. 

[NikosSprocket]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Looks like I have to bite the bullet and go sensorless. 

I am still running with switches for both X  & Y!

I just replace the switches whenever I rebuilt/major mode like now with my "SmokeBurner" 4.2 

Edited August 30, 2025 by NikosSprocket

[claudermilk]

15 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Looks like I have to bite the bullet and go sensorless. 

Do it! I was actually surprised at how easily it went. I left the switches in as something for the gantry to bump into, but the switches are now inert.