v2.4r2 2.4 Siboor kit

[Mr. Hedgehog]

Hi, everyone!

Lurking on this forum helped me way more then official discord (probably because I have no idea how to use discord properly), so I decided to join. And to motivate myself, I decided to start a build diary right away.

I bought a kit from Siboor, it came and last Saturday I started to assemble my Voron 2.4. I already put the frame together, and it was way easier than I expected. I'm still not sure if I placed bed extrusions correctly, since I couldn't get distances to be precise, but I'll see how it goes when I will attach bottom plate and a bed. I think it's almost in a right spot by now.

Funny thing happened after I assembled the frame. I was chilling and looking for some tips and tricks, and found a page in Voron documentation that said "measurements should be < 2mm different" about frame diagonals. I was so worried with my difference of ≈0.3 to ≈0.5mm, so after reading this, I had a bit more faith in myself, and that feels good.

Next day I bought some lithium grease and thread locker, so this weekend is a Day of the Rails. Gonna clean 'em, grease 'em, put 'em in a frame. Never worked with linear rails before, so a bit afraid to bend them, or to drop the carriage, but that is not the part that scares me most.

Most of all I'm scared about electrical parts. I haven't touched soldering iron and multimeter in long time, so it would be like learning everything anew. Found out that it's a good idea to check if heating element and thermistor are good. I'll start relearning how to use multimeter with this, probably today or tomorrow.

Anyways, glad to join the community, and wish me luck!

 

[Mr. Hedgehog]

Today was a good day. I cleaned and lubricated Z-rails, attached them, and also attached bottom plate. By arrangement of holes my bed extrusions are positioned perfectly. Or bottom plate is not perfectly cut. We will see, when we get to the bed.

I was a bit afraid of heat inserts for Z-drive assembly, but after about half an hour of gathering courage, I did it and it went almost well. Apparently, my soldering iron tip is too long for some of the inserts, so I need to figure out what to do. Screw a nut onto tip, so working  length would be shorter? Pierce through plastic? Don't think that is would damage parts considerably, since it's just about 1-2mm deep. Order special tip and wait for however long it take? I'll think about it tomorrow.

No photos yet, but I will start taking them after Z-drive assembly.

[cjkennedy72]

@Mr. Hedgehog There are replacement tips for your soldering iron that are made to place heat inserts. I bought a $9 set off Amazon. You should be able to get something that fits your soldering iron fairly easily and it makes it so much easier.

Looking forward to pictures and more about your progress! Welcome to what may well become your new favorite hobby!

[claudermilk]

You frame variances are good. As you've probably found, the base plate and the bed will force the rails into the proper location.

When I built my Trident, I hadn't touched a soldering iron for decades--and that was poor attempts at getting RC motors connected. I've surprised myself with what I've been able to accomplish on the printer projects. Get a good set of tools and have some patience and you will be fine. FYI< I am currently using a TS-101 iron and Omnifixo 3rd hand. They are a bit spendy but money absolutely well spent IMHO. For the heatsets, I have a cheap cartridge iron from Amazon that can mount the nice LDO tip designed for the task--it makes placing them super easy.

Oh, and I'd like to see someone who has managed to bend a linear rail. Those are pretty hefty chunks of steel. The main worry with those is losing your balls if you remove your carriage to grease it up. 

[Mr. Hedgehog]

I know about special tips, but Amazon is not available for me, so my best sources of anything are AliExpress or local stuff (that is partly same as AliExpress, but for more money).

Also, since New Year is coming, to get anything fast.

I bought my iron for single task - to solder faulty key on my keyboard, so I took cheapest local (well, local brand , Chinese assembly) one. I'm not particularly crafty. Not even sure that there is proper tip for it. But I'll manage this part.

I greased carriage without removing carriage. Just use screw holes to puah grease into carriage, removed the excess and rolled it few times. They are now almost quiet, but I see that balls are rolling and not dragging. At least I hope they are.

All in all, I hope I finish assembly this month, so I will have some time for tuning during holidays.

[cjkennedy72]

22 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

The main worry with those is losing your balls

@claudermilk This occurs due to my Wife more often than messing with linear rails! 

[Dirk]

6 hours ago, Mr. Hedgehog said:

I know about special tips, but Amazon is not available for me, so my best sources of anything are AliExpress or local stuff...

On this forum there is a special (one of the most popular) thread that sums up the best tools for building Vorons. Be sure to check it out It has the best tools available. Unfortunately they are in general also the most expensive.

The heat inserts I was doing by eyeballing with the cheapest heating iron I had bought locally like you did.

However I found a tip I read about on this forum, to be a golden tip. It is from a user called @Buurman and he showed (beautiful images) and described it beautifully (like he almost always does) here. Since I saw this, I am using the same technique to insert my tips. No special tips necessary to get max control on how you do it. Now my heat inserts are accompanied by a very flat dremel tool.

On Aliexpress the special tips are available as well. Try a picture search. On Amazon the most succesful sellers are the Chinese. So Everything on Amazon (made in China) is also available on aliexpress

I had the idea that Siboor uses Fysetc hardware. If your kit is similar to the Fysetc kit I had, then you will not need to crimp or solder a single wire  So no need to worry about crimping or soldering. 

Show us your build

[Mr. Hedgehog]

9 hours ago, Dirk said:

On this forum there is a special (one of the most popular) thread that sums up the best tools for building Vorons. Be sure to check it out It has the best tools available. Unfortunately they are in general also the most expensive.

Oh, I checked it multiple times. Thing is, I don't like buying expensive stuff that I don't use.

9 hours ago, Dirk said:

However I found a tip I read about on this forum, to be a golden tip.

Oh! I will try it. Seems like it's a saver for me!

9 hours ago, Dirk said:

I had the idea that Siboor uses Fysetc hardware. If your kit is similar to the Fysetc kit I had, then you will not need to crimp or solder a single wire

There are bunch of XH2.54 connectors that need crimping. I settled with IWISS crimping pliers, since cheapest Engineer PA-09 I found is around  $150 (converted from local currency), and IWISS is about $20. I think, for single build it will be enough, and I'll think about better tools if I decide that I want to build something else.

[Mr. Hedgehog]

So, today was the Day of a Little Screw. Well, few hours actually, but I didn't plan to do anything at all today, so it will do.

I  finished with heat inserts, thanks to a tip from @Dirk, who pointed me at a tip from @Buurman, so I could use my soldering iron tip (pun intended). It worked great with no additional cost.

I also assembled first Z-drive which doubles as a leg. I spent more time that I should've, but less time that I could. Manual specifically shows that we need to set pulley at 33mm, but I really don't have enough hands to hold wrench, shaft, pulley and calipers at once. Luckily, even before I bought my kit, I watched whole series from Scott Corn, and it was a salvation. He places whole assembly onto printed part, so it naturally stays almost as needed. Then, only two hands are needed - one for the hex key, and second for holding assembly in place. I almost lost those little set screws few times, messed up everything around with thread locker (but quickly figured out how to work with it), and finally went from literal screws to figurative.

First "screw" happened yesterday, on a Rails Day. It turned out that I mounted DIN rails sideways. It was a quick fix. Second "screw" was with T-nuts. I put nuts for motor too close to corner, and completely covered one of them with a foot. Had  to unscrew, move nut and then screw back.

Here is the result (I'm bad a taking photos, please forgive the quality):

[claudermilk]

The IWISS tools are perfectly good. I got their cutter and crimper, those two tools have now built two printers and their mods, 3 RC cars, and a couple of other projects.

[YaaJ]

5 hours ago, Mr. Hedgehog said:

First "screw" happened yesterday, on a Rails Day. It turned out that I mounted DIN rails sideways

Doing this, you didn't screw. It is the alternate way. Described in the LDO kit documentation. It has its advantages (in theory, following their guidelines, a better air circulation), and a caveat : the DIN rails don't hold the deck on the sides, some clips to print). But it is definitely not a mistake. https://docs.ldomotors.com/en/voron/voron2/wiring_guide_rev_c

Edited December 17, 2023 by YaaJ

[Mr. Hedgehog]

Happy New Year, everyone! How are you doing?

Last year I managed to assemble rest of the legs, eyedlers, A and B drives and gantry. Even managed to make gantry actually flying, but the caught cold or flu, so had to pause for a bit.

Then New Year came, I rested a bit and now I finished assembly of TAP and almost finished Stealthburner.

Tap was painful. Literally. There are some heat inserts that are so inconveniently placed, that I burned myself a little. Nothing too bad, had worse burns in my life. Also, this is where my first criticism of the kit comes. It requires some M3x10 button head screws, but instead includes SHCM. So far it's ok.

Then I assembled extruder (it was easy) and toolhead. With toolhead I had problems with included screws. My smallest hex wrench was to small for them, and next one was too big. Luckily, I have LOADS of hex wrenches, so I found one that fit, but still didn't like those screws. Might replace them later.

I still can't decide what I hate more - TAP with all that heat inserts, or LEDs in toolhead cover with all that wires. Also, have no idea where to put excess of the wires from LEDs. And it feels that cable cover on extruder don't have enough space for all the stuff that connects to CAN board. It barely closes. Might need to tweak this part a bit.

Next up will be bed and then all the brains an power. I hope that I will make first print this month, or, at least, in a first half of next. Check out photos, and sorry for potato quality.

[claudermilk]

The wiring can get tight in the toolhead. It looks like you have plenty of space overall. The extra in the front should fit since it's laying flat; you could pull a bit of the extra LED down and fold it up near the nozzle LEDs. For the cover, there might be a modified one that makes room for hte PCB--I know the hartk 2-piece boards have one & that's what I now have on my SB. It should just be the ridge on the back of the part that needs trimming.

Oh, and your gantry looks just a little racked. 

[Dirk]

Happy new year to you too. I think what you have done so far looks great. Your parts also look great. Did you print these yourself? If you did, I doubt you need another printer

I also have had problems with the size of screws, but it was with the screws of the TAP kit that I bought after building my Voron.

I can recommend just replacing those screws, I did after I had a lot of troubles witht hem. Use screws that work well for you

I think the cables in your stealthburner are not that bulky, or too long... This is what you get with 'kits'. I think it is better to provide longer cables in a kit, instead of shorter ones

If you want to shorten the cables, here is how it 'could' be done super tight and snug

Thanks for the nice pictures. I think they are great for this purpose... and you are not a professional photographer, right? so...

 

[Mr. Hedgehog]

25 minutes ago, Dirk said:

Your parts also look great. Did you print these yourself?

Nope. All parts came with the kit.

 

29 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Oh, and your gantry looks just a little racked

Yeah, I noticed. But I think that gantry still needs a bit deracking. Couldn't make it perfectly square, because it's tedious to move all z-drives by hand to make them level. Will redo it later, when in the mood.

[Dirk]

54 minutes ago, Mr. Hedgehog said:

Couldn't make it perfectly square, because it's tedious to move all z-drives by hand to make them level.

I am assuming this is a joke on a joke, right? But I want to say that you do not really need to derack things yet. Most of the things will be much more easier once you have put on the belts.

The zip ties I also had in my kit, but used just a piece of rope I had lying. Found it easier. Just for holding the gantry from dropping...

If you really want to keep them level while you are doing something else, I suggest you take a look at this page and print these 'tools'

[Mr. Hedgehog]

16 minutes ago, Dirk said:

I am assuming this is a joke on a joke, right?

Yes, and no. I already have all belts in place, followed Nero tutorial for deracking but there is still room for improvement, so I will definitely repeat this procedure.

[Mr. Hedgehog]

Yesterday I installed forgotten X-endstop. It was a bit of a pain, and would definitely be much easier, if I'd installed it when Tap was not on a rail, but I managed. I also managed to tuck excess of LED wires on top of hotend fan, so managed to install Stealthburner cover. And finally, day ended with me adding CAN cable. Had to disassemble connector, so wires could pass through PG7 gland. Which is really odd. Still need to remember to attach passive cooler to CAN board, but I'll do it later. Tomorrow, maybe.

Today I assembled the bed. Honestly, applying magnet and heater was much easier than I thought it would be. However, have a question. Manual says that I need to only fully tighten one screw, but then the bed is all wobbly. Is it normal, or I need to screw a bit more?

With bed in place, all that is left are power, brains and spinal cord. Will try to finish today or tomorrow, so I will have one more day before work to recheck everything, tighten the belts and start tuning.

Edited January 6 by Mr. Hedgehog

[YaaJ]

1 hour ago, Mr. Hedgehog said:

Manual says that I need to only fully tighten one screw, but then the bed is all wobbly. Is it normal, or I need to screw a bit more?

Loosen the bed extrusions horizontal (front and read) M5 screws.

Tighten the 4 bed M3 screws.

(the bed is now parallel to the extrusions)

Retighten the 4 horizontal M5 screws.

Losen a bit 3 of the 4 bed M3 screws.

Done;

But this does not garantee the bed will be perfectly parallel to the frame base...

[Dirk]

I think your Siboor kit looks great

Forgetting things, disassembling is normal, when there are 653 steps in the manual.

About the screws... This is all theory. I would suggest tighten everything like you have done with everything else.

The idea is about geometry and theoretical stability of 3 points forming 1 plane. Also about expansion when heating. I learnt this during first few years of high school: a table is more stable when they only have 3 legs, because it will be one plane. I barely see 3 legged tables

I am just a noob, old man trying to fix his kids printer when it breaks down, so take a look at what people say that are experts:

"

• It’s commonly advised to mount your bed with only three screws, with “one tight, two loose”. Anecdotally this advice has caused fist layer issues for me.

"

This is from Ellis' print tuning guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/troubleshooting/first_layer_squish_consistency_issues/first_layer_inconsistency.html

I have the idea that you are a guy who has worked a lot with tools. So just build it and when finetuning your printer, you can leave that one screw (1/4 turn) loose if you wish to compensate for heat expansion or keep everything else straight

 

[claudermilk]

21 hours ago, Dirk said:

I am assuming this is a joke on a joke, right?

21 hours ago, Mr. Hedgehog said:

Yes, and no. I already have all belts in place, followed Nero tutorial for deracking but there is still room for improvement, so I will definitely repeat this procedure.

In case it was missed, my original comment was with tongue firmly planted in cheek. I saw the zip ties, so it was obvious (to me) that the gantry is in the being-supported-during-build phase. I know that it's going to be de-racked later. 

[YaaJ]

This zip ties thing sounds like a joke by the Voron team.

Save yourself this pain, print 4 of these, add 4 screws and 4 T-nuts :

Gantry Z Stop x4.zip

[Mr. Hedgehog]

1 hour ago, Dirk said:

when there are 653 steps in the manual

Five manuals so far: base manual, tap, CAN, stealthburner, additions and corrections from Siboor along with wiring guide.

1 hour ago, Dirk said:

I have the idea that you are a guy who has worked a lot with tools.

Don't know where you got this idea. I know which way to hold a screwdriver, sure, but otherwise I'm not handy or crafty. But as a software engineer by trade I know how to follow manuals and search stuff.

1 hour ago, Dirk said:

I think your Siboor kit looks great

I'm mostly happy with it. It have some stuff that I don't like. For example there are bunch of thing in zip bags stuffed into zip bags, but nothing have labels, so it takes a lot of guessing sometimes. Otherwise it's really good.

50 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I saw the zip ties, so it was obvious (to me) that the gantry is in the being-supported-during-build phase. I know that it's going to be de-racked later. 

I got the joke. Sorry, I'm not really good at expressing my thoughts as words even in my native language, not to mention English.

[Dirk]

2 hours ago, Mr. Hedgehog said:

Don't know where you got this idea.

 

On 1/5/2024 at 2:11 PM, Mr. Hedgehog said:

Luckily, I have LOADS of hex wrenches, so I found one that fit,

A software engineer has LOADS of discs, usb-sticks, ssds books (as guides / manuals) but not loads of hex wrenches I thought...  

[Mr. Hedgehog]

10 hours ago, Dirk said:

but not loads of hex wrenches

So, I have one cheap toolbox, because sometimes you have to screw something or do similar stuff at home. It comes with a set of hex keys and ratchet that also includes hex bits. Then I have lots of IKEA furniture and each comes with a hex. Then I bought Ender 3v2, that also comes with a few. And I replaced an extruder which came with three more keys. Then this Voron kit came with a new set. And I have no idea where more hex wrenches materialized from, I think they just warped through time and space into my "stuff I might need someday" box to find their relatives.