v0.2 Smol Printer Build: V0.2-S1r1

[claudermilk]

I'll get a head start on this build diary while the kit is still on the way. I've been plotting a V0 build almost from when the Trident was complete, but have been putting it off. Well, first kick was winning the printed V0 manual from the Voron holiday giveaway which arrived a while later and the latest & final kick was Fabreeko throwing a coupon at Nero commenters. Then when I "lamented" that it didn't work on the Rook and that the V0 kits in gray were out--thinking I had my out--Hector went and dug up one in stock and updated the website. I couldn't not buy the kit now, could I?

I had planned a Rook build next as a father-daughter project but it looks like she gets to help build a V0.2. Darn. /s

I am planning on Fusion Geomagnetic Mauve for the primary, and (with daughter & wife's input) Polymaker Galaxy Teal for the accent. Oddly this was an easier decision than the Trident build. Also, yes, it's going to be sparkly despite my membership of the GOMs.

Now for a question. I do not have a Pi Zero 2W and am not willing to spend >$100 for a $15 CPU. I do have a couple of Pi 3Bs which will work. Also, the local MicroCenter has a ton of Zero 2 in stock. So, will the Zero 2 suffice (I think no)? Or, is there a mount out there somewhere for the Pi 3 on a V0? Though browsing the nice printed manual it looks like I can steal a Pi mount from the Trident files & print that DIN cleat.  (now grabbing & hoarding those Pi 3s a while ago looks like a genius move)

So the specs. It's the LDO V0.2-S1 kit and is coming pre-pimped-out.

• Top hat bumped to 100mm version
• LDO slide in M3 nuts
• Kirigami bed
• Pre assembled polyimide bed.
• 200W upgraded power supply
• Picobilical toolhead PCB & umbilical.
• LDO edition SKR Pico
• Revo Voron (the blue heat sink is getting swiped for the blue Trident which will donate it's red Voron edition heat sink. Because reasons).
• Hiwin X rail, HoneyBadger rails for the rest.
• Looks like a couple of plates: Honey Badger textured PEI & a dual smooth PEI/carbon fiber.

I'll want to add a small-ish touch screen because the Waveshare 4.3" on the Trident running KlipperScreen is so, so nice. It will also make the printer a bit more kid friendly. Also later LEDs. Lots of LEDs. I'm tempted to try and see if I can force boop to work even though it's not supposed to.

[PFarm]

This is awesome, from what I've read Pi2w is the minimum you can use for Klipper. I've have one on my Artillery X1 with no issue it does lag a bit if you run a camera.

 

Edited July 1, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

I think @smirk used a Pi Zero W2 in his build. As @PFarm said, it is the minimum requirement for klipper but you won't have a good camera stream. And obviously not much mcu to run add ons such as obi, telegrambot, klipperscreen, etc etc.

Looking forward to this build,

[claudermilk]

Yeah, that's what I thought I remembered. So the Pi 3B it is. I found that the r1 updates include a DIN cleat, so I'll add a couple of those to the print plates.

So far I've ordered the filament and got the plate sliced & loaded on the Trident SD card. I'm going to get all fancy and try the multibody variants of the MiniSB cowl and the skirts.

[claudermilk]

 

Geomagnetic Mauve filament is scheduled for Saturday. Printing the couple of plates of Teal. That Polymaker ABS is giving me a bit of trouble, really doesn't want to print super clean. I am getting good enough results to move forward.

[claudermilk]

Crap. It's a blue frame kit. Not that it's ugly--I love the blue I have for the Trident, but I meant for it to be space gray. Let's see what Fabreeko has to say...

[claudermilk]

Still waiting on feedback on the kit. In the meantime, the Fusion filament arrived and it's beautiful. I see what all the fuss was about over the Geomagnetic Mauve. 

Parts look beautiful and this filament prints so nice.

[claudermilk]

Continuing printing parts while awaiting word on swapping to te grey I want (stock levels seems to still be the issue there). I'm on to the last few plates, which mean it's time to attempt the multibody, multi-color parts. The first attempt turned out amazing.

OMG, it's going to work?!

Yes! Yes, it worked! Looks great! 

Today is the skirts.

[claudermilk]

A bit more progress, the skirts are now done. This was definitely more challenging. My super-squished prints on textured didn't work--the two colors pulled apart, so I swapped to a smooth plate and reduced squish to just enough to stick. The first layer is kind of ugly, but that's the inside so won't be seen. Even with that, and giving the plat a good long time to cool, a few of the mesh insert bits pulled free. Some acetone welding fixed that.

[Penatr8tor]

I had to print some replacement ASA and also Nylon (CoPa) replacement parts for my nephews nerf blaster. Only took is GF 10 seconds to break it . I installed an old PEI sheet and cracked open a stick of Elmers purple glue stick. Well... wouldn't you know, parts stuck like glue, released easily and whatever residual glue left on the part was negligible, TBH there wasn't even enough to bother cleaning it off. No super squish or other tricks required. Lastly... I think I will keep using the glue stick for ASA ABS in the foreseeable future.

[claudermilk]

I now have the correct grey frame and Kirigami parts, so this show can get rolling. 

[claudermilk]

Actual building has finally happened! 

First of all, the required bag of Haribo was acquired. It's even the correct package size. 

New Voron builder-in-training. She did almost all the actual wrenching. I mostly supervised, directed, and advised. 

Current progress.

At this point she was about done and i was getting there--been a busy weekend. As it turns out this was about as far as we could get anyway. Next up is the Kirigami bed, and i had a reprint needed. I also found that there were no feetsies. Where's my feetsies? I forgot to print them. And the clear logo insert for the Kirigami, so some printing needed to be done first. I also prepped all the heatests (I think); I'd rather I burn my fingers than my building assistant (and mom will appreciate dad not letting her play with dangerous, hot tools).

Those no-drop nut holders are great--they work like a charm. For my batch, I need to file the bottom a bit so they don't have too tight a fit, but there will be no cascade of nuts shooting out onto the floor from a poorly-considered frame rotation.

[claudermilk]

More progress. Slow and steady, just the Kirigami set up and mounted; BUT, no tramming needed at all! The rails turned out to be perfectly positioned and the bed just drops smoothly. The extra effort making sure the parts were as perfectly flat and square with the 1-2-3- blocks paid off.

Lots of progress pics.

Prepping parts. Thanks Steve for showing us the Knipex pliers--they were perfect for pressing the M3 nuts into the front piece for the Kirigami.

   

 

Kirigami ready

Attaching the bed.

  

Bed attached, and done for the day. It travels smoothly, no tramming needed. I'm surprised and super tickled at that.

 

[Simon2.4]

23 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I'd rather I burn my fingers than my building assistant.

I was 11 when I got my first soldering iron. I did burn myself a few times but it's part of learning how to use tools. I commend the early introduction to STEM subjects !! My parents gave me this book which sparked (pun intended) my interest in electronics:

I don't have it anymore but I remember it contained a few really nasty circuits like voltage multipliers guaranteed to zap the FK out of you  lol

[Penatr8tor]

@claudermilk So Chris... Is your daughter excited to have her own 3D printer? Props for working together with your kid/s on a cool project. 

[claudermilk]

@Penatr8tor yes she is. She helped a little bit way back on the Prusa Mini build which I think planted the seed. I kind of want to be a fly on the wall when the back-to-school question of "what did you do this summer" is answered with "I built a Voron" 

Some more progress yesterday. 

"How many preloaded nuts?"

This part of the frame assembly was a bit fiddly and juggling lots of bits.

Getting it lined up and square.

Sadly, in the final preload check I found I had missed a few.  Had to do some unbuilding to get all the nuts loaded and lost the perfect first time tramming. 

Time for gummies. That got her interest back--checking the nuts and making sure everything was square got tedious nd boring.

Finished for the day. It's so little and cute!

[claudermilk]

Some more progress. This is going to be a slow build with distractions, and attention span, but that's ok. It's not a race.

This time as the AB drives. She got lessons in gravity.  The A drive stacks got re-stacked about 6 times.

Finally putting the top and bottom together after learning to keep the stack horizontal, and use a finger to hold the screw in place. B drive went much faster.

 

Going on the frame.

The V0 and V0.1 must have been tedious to do this with all the extra bolts. I like that one uses the threaded hole in the extrusion. Big brain there.

The AB drives (or should that be BA?) installed.

[claudermilk]

More progress! Front idlers, Z motor and feetsies!

More bearing stacks! They only had to get rebuilt a couple of times due to gravity or wrongly-oriented flanges.

Getting the Z motor in. I haven't messed with an anti-backlash spring & fitting, so it took a little puzzling before I got it. Plus going Kirigami, so the parts didn't quite match the manual, but in the end we got it figured out. Thankfully I have little fingers at my disposal to place those hard-to-reach screws.

 

FInally, feet!

And finished for the evening.

  

[claudermilk]

More progress. This time is the X axis and finishing up the frame.

"Really? More bearing stacks?" "Yes, but these are the last ones, I promise."

Completed joints, no more bearing stacks to build. Had to unbuild and rebuild after realizing I had grabbed the wrong screws, then seeing one bearing inserted backwards. 

Last rail being assembled. She's a pro now.

X axis built and ready to go.

 

...and installation.

Getting the nuts lined up was a bit of a PITA and after realizing we missed the bottom two it took some effort to get those done. This is no news to veteran V0 builders.

Current progress on the printer. It's not looking like a printer!

[claudermilk]

Belted! Only the final-for-the-night photo as I was the one doing most of the work. My assistant did the first routing of belt A so we could get a length. From there I pretty much took over cutting the belts, and doing final routing. This little guy is a PITA to belt, especially the carriage; I struggled for a while before getting it done, so she wouldn't have had the finger strength or stubbornness to fight through (also distracted with baking). Belt tuning is Nero yeah-it's-about-right gauging. I tried a couple of phone tuning apps, but couldn't get reliable output I trust.\ and I'm not sure that the Prusa printed meter applies to this setup.

[Penatr8tor]

Looking good Chris! Agree, as much as you want them to experience all aspects of the build process... Somethings will need Dads hands and experience to accomplish.

Belt tensioning seems to be one of those things that still live mostly in the realm touchy feely aka that feels like the right tension LOL. The closest I've gotten to actual belt tensioning was with the RatRig, they have a belt tensioning tool that utilizes an ADXL345. 

[claudermilk]

There is the tensioning macro using the ADXL345 in Klipper. I've used that on my Trident after the front idler pin mod and Tap updates and I was able to confirm very good balance on the belts with that. I'll use it on this little guy, too.

[Penatr8tor]

Yup, that was the one I used. 

[Simon2.4]

On 8/14/2023 at 9:41 AM, claudermilk said:

There is the tensioning macro using the ADXL345 in Klipper. I've used that on my Trident after the front idler pin mod and Tap updates and I was able to confirm very good balance on the belts with that. I'll use it on this little guy, too.

Could you link that plz. looks interesting

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Simon2.4 said:

Could you link that plz. looks interesting

See here