v2.4r2 Voron 2.4r2 with TAP, CAN

[ChicagoKeri]

Hi!

So, I haven't printed anything much out of PLA or PETG in months. A couple of projects in TPU are nearing the end.  The V0.1-1/2 is getting a workout and the Prusa just sits idle as it is not especially happy with ABS or heaven forbid, PC or Nylon.

So, rather than upgrade the Prusa to MK4, I decided on a V2.4.  So, I started printing out parts on the V0.1. I also ordered a BTT  Can toolhead board, SB2209 and a U2C. Also, I obtained a Raspberry Pi 4.

I really wanted a 250mm, but in USA only the 300 and 350 sized are readily available.  So, I tried ordering a 250mm Formbot kit from 3Dprintersbay, and after a week.. no reply, no acknowledgment of any kind.  But, they do reply to email! They are real, after all. But, alas, 250s are a few weeks away... would I care to upgrade to a 300? Oh, OK.  While waiting, I ordered Alclad bottom and back panels in White from Printed Solid. So, a few days later along comes the Formbot kit. Over the weekend of 13 May, I sorted out the parts, programmed the Pi with MainsailOS, and tried programming the SB2209

The build started on 15 May.  The initial framing took one evening.  

16 May -evening - assembled the Z drives, continued printing parts

17 May - evening - Installed the Z drives, Z idlers, Z rails, continued printing parts

18  May- evening - Assembled and installed the Heated bed, continued printing parts

19 May - evening - Started Gantry assembly

Weekend of 20  May - A busy weekend, but managed to complete the Gantry assembly. printed some more parts.  Ordered a Pi43TFT screen.

22 May - evening - Installed the Gantry, set Z belts tensions

23 May - evening - Assembled Voron TAP, ran AB belts

24 May - evening - Started to assemble the Stealthburner with a Dragon.  Configured the Octopus

25 May - evening - Completed Stealthburner  assembly and installation. Started on the electronics bay. Printed more parts. Flashed the Octopus. Had trouble setting up the CAN.

26 May - evening - Mostly completed the electronics bay.  Got the CAN toolboard to talk to the Pi!

27 May - busy day - evening - initial setup of AB motors directions, configured the SB2209, verified correct hotend operation. Printed more parts.

28 May - Got Z drives directions configured, performed initial tests, got Quad Gantry Leveling to play nice with Voron TAP.  Started printing the remaining parts that are too big for the V0.1, namely the fan carriers and the center rear skirt section. Printed yet more parts, but I'm mostly done with printing parts....

29 May - Had the V2.4 print some more big parts for itself before resuming construction.  Assembled most of the skirting, installed the Z belt covers, which was a bit fiddly as the Formbot rail slots are just a couple of tenths of a millimeter too narrow, necessitating some filing of the plastic parts to fit.    Also assembled all of the panel retainers with their hammerhead nuts with loctite... about 35 pieces in all. And tidied up the wiring a little bit.   Am trying to decide how to rout the CAN toolhead cable.   Noted that the EBB SB2209 CAN toolhead has performed flawlessly so far.  Also noted that the print quality is quite good with no tuning whatever.

 

Edited May 30, 2023 by ChicagoKeri
Daily update

[7milesup]

Wow.  You are moving along quite quickly.  

I really want to utilize the CAN setup but...

[ChicagoKeri]

13 hours ago, 7milesup said:

Wow.  You are moving along quite quickly.  

I really want to utilize the CAN setup but...

Good choice! Very wise to wait. CAN toolboards are in their infancy  and are bit tricky to configure.  Many YouTube videos helped.

Doing both TAP and CAN was a bit of a leap.  One must be very patient and persistent to attempt such an endeavor.    The biggest hurdle is the sparse documentation and the fact that the board must be flashed with appropriate firmware.    

My biggest hurdle was the U2C.... it comes pre-programmed and I should have left it alone.  Instead I programmed it as a CAN device, and it alone would be found on the bus with no way to communicate with the EBB.  Reverting the U2C to factory firmware allowed the EBB to function as it should, with the U2C being apparently transparent to Klipper.   Annoyingly, the pre-compiled firmware for the EBB SB2209 itself didn't work, but compiling it went easily enough....  

[ChicagoKeri]

30 May, evening. More minor assembly today.  Assembled the electronics bay fans.

Applied door latch magnets and VHB tape to very many tabs in preparation for installing doors and bottom hatch.

 Have decided to use the Pi43TFT display on the 2.4 with KlipperScreen instead of my original plan to take the Pi50TFT out of the V 0.1 and put the 43 in that. 

 

[mvdveer]

On 5/30/2023 at 10:39 AM, ChicagoKeri said:

CAN toolboards are in their infancy  and are bit tricky to configure

But they are so worth the effort. Have them on 3 machines now. All MELLOW Fly SB2040 boards. Have ordered a Mellow Fly SHT v2 to convert the first V2.4 I build to canbus and chaoticlabs tap with orbitor extruder. The SB2040 were a breeze after the first install. Let’s see how the SHT goes. 

Loving the detail in the build diary BTW

[ChicagoKeri]

31 May - evening - Spliced the Electronics Bay fan wiring, installed Fan Assembly in place.  

Installed the Back Panel, Filter and Exhaust Fan.  elected to run the CAN cable through a slot cut at the Filter Door opening, at the bottom of the Filter Housing. This allows the cable hole to be only 4.5mm in diameter but yet the connecter can be easily run through if the filter door is removed.

Similarly, I slotted a 4.5mm hole in the Keystone Blank Insert so as to allow passing the CAN cable into the Electronics Bay with the connector attached.

Ran the Reverse Bowden and CAN cable, secured them together.  This might need a bit of adjustment....  

Edited June 2, 2023 by ChicagoKeri
Added picture

[ChicagoKeri]

1 June - evening- Routed the CAN cable through the Electronics Bay, cut to length and crimped on a MicroFit3.0 4-position connector to attach it to the U2C. The U2C has several connection options and came with the terminals for two different connectors. 

Started up the printer to verify the CAN still works... it does.

Also, connected up the Exhaust Fan and Controller Fans and configured their operation in Printer.cfg.  It seems that Formbot has chosen fans that make a good first impression... they are powerful, the noise is not annoying and they throttle down well.  

Temporarily attached the Bottom Panel, to attach the mounting tabs.

Flipped the printer right-side-up and did a quad gantry level... everything still works, so I started printing a mount for the Pi TFT43

[ChicagoKeri]

2 June

Printed a mount for the Pi TFT43.... it turned out slightly undersized and also doesn't have clearance for the Pi TFT43 V2.1.

Increased the X and Y dimensions to 100.5% and started adding Negative Volume modifiers to the mount in PrusaSlicer.... The modifiers will allow clearance for a connector and access to the Screen Brightness buttons...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 3, 2023 by ChicagoKeri
image placement

[ChicagoKeri]

3 June- Printed out the modified mount for the Pi TFT43, verified that it fits and the buttons line up with the holes.

Started printing out the parts for a Nevermore V5 Duo

4 June - Learned 4 things:

1- Nevermore cartridge lid is published in upside down orientation and will not adhere to the bed adequately.

2- The "free, included, pre-crimped" thermistor included with the EBB SB2209 easily detaches from the metal casing when confronted with a plastic blob of death (PBOD)

3- Klipper's thermal runaway protection works flawlessly if for some reason the thermistor becomes detached from the hotend

4- Stealthburner is extremely easy to service, especially with the EBB SB2209 breakout board

Also, completely printed out and assembled a Nevermore V5 Duo on the repaired V2.4

Edited June 5, 2023 by ChicagoKeri
Daily update

[claudermilk]

Sounds like a...fun...day?

[mvdveer]

Moving along nicely - sounds like a fun build

[ChicagoKeri]

5 June - evening -  Not as much fun today! Just totally boring printing with no "Adventure, Excitement and Really Wild Things"...  Used the 2.4 to print some parts for a different printer for a change, before unplugging it and starting to disassemble for installing the Nevermore.  The 2.4 is nearing completion, though...

But mostly, spend time returning a Prusa MK3s to standard configuration, as someone wants it....

6 June - evening, after dentist - installed the Pi TFT43, installed KlipperScreen.  Got the touchscreen to work.

Edited June 7, 2023 by ChicagoKeri
Daily update

[ChicagoKeri]

9 June - late evening-  Made the extension wire for the Nevermore, installed, configured and tested Nevermore in the Voron 2.4- works OK. Changing the carbon in the Voron 0.1 Nevermore is probably overdue...

[ChicagoKeri]

10-11 June

Decided against mounting the Pi TFT43 upside down so as to access the brightness buttons, as flipping the image and touchscreen in software are separate operations, so I set the brightness and mounted it right way up, which blocks the buttons from access.

Finished up the electronics bay and installed the bottom cover.

Mounted the top panel and side panels as well as the previously installed back panel.  The door panels are about 0.5 - 1.0mm too tall and about 0.5mm too wide, so filed them down slightly at the area near the magnet holders to clear.   Mounted the right door and started working on narrowing the Left door. 

Started printing Top Handles.... this thing is heavy and awkward!

[ChicagoKeri]

Yay! 

 

The Voron 2.4 300 with TAP and CAN is complete enough to end the Build Dairy! 

The Formbot kit from which it was made was of adequate quality. About the only deficiencies were that some of the extrusions seem to have slightly narrow slots and the panels for the doors seem be be very slightly too large.  Plenty of hardware spares were included.

So, here's a short video....

 

[mvdveer]

Excellent - like the color.

I have build 3 formbot kits now and except for their wiring harnesses, found them to be good value for money. Specifically like the moons motors they supply.

Have a LDO Micron Plus kit to build and from the packaging, it is already evident that more care has gone into this product. And also more of my money 

[ChicagoKeri]

OK, One last thing...

I tried the accelerometer built into the EBB SB2209 and it worked!

In as-built condition with no adjustments to speak of nd with the added mass of Voron TAP, it seems ok, with X and Y axes qualifying for "MZV" shaper method.

I'm not sure, but I think this might be a tolerable result... feel free to interpret this data!

Some charts:

X axis

 

Y axis

 

 

[claudermilk]

Looks pretty good to my untrained eye. The max accels seems a bit low, but it is what it is. It never hurts to check all bolts for tightness again.

[Kleinejan]

Hi ChicagoKeri, 

nice build. When it converted to CanBus Ebb SB2209. I first, just like you, added the u2c. Because it looked understandable / logical. 

Now I have removed them both on my 2.4r2, works like a charm. RPI-4 -> Octopus -> EBB. vs: 

RPI-4 -> Octopus

+

RPi-4 -> U2C-> EBB

It removes and simplifies wires and steps.

Just another step to power down you RPI4 processing-power ( check this) Also check the BTT github.

Compare both manuals and you will understand what you need to fill in in the:

make menuconfig

The Octopus v1.X is more than capable to do the heavy lifting. And I can confirm it all works fine after 1km of filament 

[ChicagoKeri]

2 hours ago, Kleinejan said:

Hi ChicagoKeri, 

nice build. When it converted to CanBus Ebb SB2209. I first, just like you, added the u2c. Because it looked understandable / logical. 

Now I have removed them both on my 2.4r2, works like a charm. RPI-4 -> Octopus -> EBB. vs: 

RPI-4 -> Octopus

+

RPi-4 -> U2C-> EBB

It removes and simplifies wires and steps.

Just another step to power down you RPI4 processing-power ( check this) Also check the BTT github.

Compare both manuals and you will understand what you need to fill in in the:

make menuconfig

The Octopus v1.X is more than capable to do the heavy lifting. And I can confirm it all works fine after 1km of filament 

Yes, I have already seen that and considered doing it that way.   For better or worse, I decided to use the U2C, which also works well enough.

[PFarm]

On 6/23/2023 at 10:14 PM, ChicagoKeri said:

Yes, I have already seen that and considered doing it that way.   For better or worse, I decided to use the U2C, which also works well enough.

I had some bad luck with the Octopus and replaced it with Manta 8P my Canadian supplier had older stock so it was a Version 1.0 which has no built in Canbus. I've installed the U2C which is working

just make sure you update the to the latest firmware.

Edited July 23, 2023 by PFarm

[ChicagoKeri]

Build Diary Updates, 10 December, 2023

Over the past few months:

I kept killing Hotend Thermistors, so replaced the BTT EBB 2209 with a new one to no effect, it ate 2 more.

Replaced the BTT EBB2209 with a MellowFly 2240 , no more Hotend Thermistor issues unrelated to Plastic Blob of Death.

Added a rudimentary Beeper for alert tunes

Poor quality of prints lead me down several dead ends:

Replaced CW2 with Bondtech LGX Lite that I had lying around... didn't improve prints very much but I love the filament release lever operation. Using an LGX Lite with Stealthburner requires a different extruder Front and a shaky mounting arrangement for the CANbus Board...

Trying all manner of settings changes made no improvements

Finally got suitable macros and start/finish gcode  so that .gcodes from slicers other than PrusaSlicer would work.

Both Voron printers now print very nicely with OrcaSlicer... the poor quality of printing was caused by PrusaSlicer.

Went from Printed TAP to ChaoticLabs CNC TAP V1 for about a month, then to MellowFly CNC TAP which seems much better.

Just today:

Got around to installing Revo Voron which has been on hold for a few months... waiting to get decent print quality first.

Built and installed Galileo 2 Extruder to replace the LGX Lite... I don't like the release lever as much but the general execution is much better, especially the toolhead board mount.  Fortunately, the first test Benchy doesn't seem worse that one printed yesterday with LGX Lite + Dragon combo!