Voron Tap Released!

[Wick]

it's a 2.2 Ohm and not 2.2kOhm to avoid that high inrush voltage that toasts the regulator on the 5-24V Board.. see here

[cobretti]

4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Well, I tried Tapping this weekend and it didn't go well. No smoke--I put the suggested resistor in so that is good so far. The issue I am having is the LED on the V2.1 PCB lights up, and won't turn off. For some reason the optical sensor will not trigger at all. I currently have the board hanging loose and even when I cram some black cardboard in the sensor slot it does not react. I'm not sure if I have a bum board or if wiring is messed up or what. I'm reusing the stock spec probe wiring in my harness (24V/S/GND) which still has the BAT85 soldered in line. Still on the same pins on the controller--I haven't gone in there to mess with anything.

Plan B is to swap out to UnTap later today if I have time. I also found one of the recommended wired optical sensors in stock at Digikey, so I ordered a couple of those to try for plan C.

Just an FYI - i had similar issue with my v2.1 vendor bought sensor and it cam down to bad soldering job. I re-soldered about 3 suspect looking joints and it started working as expected. I have tap working even though I don't have a build plate yet . 

[Buurman]

While I like so much about it...  seriously considering to go back to Klicky sometimes.

I miss the pure consistancy, the TAP is just OFF sometimes, and I think just for filament ooze, or something.

Klicky always works if build well (mostly the magnets montage) ...

TAP can still use some work I feel... or just good ideas that I am not smart enough for :- p 

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

The 5V boards appear to have almost no components aside from the sensor and plug. So, you will want the inline resisto

I have the 5V board - NO resistor needed - this has it on the PCB already. Mine has been working without a hitch on the 2.4 ever since install.

See manual p15:

[Buurman]

5 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I have the 5V board - NO resistor needed - this has it on the PCB already. Mine has been working without a hitch on the 2.4 ever since install.

See manual p15:

Now you JINXed it... you will see hahaha!

[Penatr8tor]

38 minutes ago, Wick said:

it's a 2.2 Ohm and not 2.2kOhm to avoid that high inrush voltage that toasts the regulator on the 5-24V Board.. see here

That's very interesting. The 2.2K Ohm value I got was from the link @claudermilk posted. If he's using a 2.2K Ohm resistor that might be the reason why his Sensor PCB isn't being recognised. 

[mvdveer]

2 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

That's very interesting. The 2.2K Ohm value I got was from the link @claudermilk posted. If he's using a 2.2K Ohm resistor that might be the reason why his Sensor PCB isn't being recognised. 

Can confirm it is a 2.2ohm resistor if you have a faulty 24V board, soldered inline. Does not apply to the 5V boards

[Wick]

the 2.2 Ohm inline is only neccessary if you use 24V, not if you use it on 5V. theres also a modification to transfer the V2.1 to a 5V only sensor (maybe you can repair a toasted sensor with this as you remove the toasted U2):

Edited January 23, 2023 by Wick

[Penatr8tor]

22 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Can confirm it is a 2.2ohm resistor if you have a faulty 24V board, soldered inline. Does not apply to the 5V boards

I think I read the same thing you did. TAP Issues

Also a good idea to heed this warning. Edit... Best to get the grey metal oxide film resistors.

"Use a 2.2Ω wire-wound or metal oxide resistor, 1/2W rating should be good. It is probably important to use a wire-wound, metal oxide, or carbon composition resistor rather than the more common thin-film resistors because they have better power pulse characteristics. The resistor will briefly see a high-wattage pulse at powerup (perhaps 1-200W over 10 µs), and this can quickly break down thin-film resistors."

Edited January 23, 2023 by Penatr8tor

[claudermilk]

Oh, that! That's for the Moonraker update. I warned him it would break like that.  I didn't read your post well enough--I was fixated on my Tap tribulations.

There's a pin in the Discord Tap channel pointing to the Github issue #42. They are saying that voltage inrush--especially when hot-plugging (why would you hot-plug your sensor?)--is exceeding the part specs and is blowing it up. The resistor is to reduce that voltage to within specs and prevents the release of smoke. There's a lot of good info in the temporary fix description. Most goes over my head, but I understand enough of the concept to see where they are coming from.

[Penatr8tor]

@claudermilk

You posted that you used 2.2K Ohm resistor and also that your sensor didn't work. 

Just a friendly reminder to check your resistor and confirm that it is 2.2 Ohm and not 2200 Ohm. 

[claudermilk]

O.M.G. Today is face-palm day. Yes, I looked at my order again. They are indeed 2.2K ohm resistors! I totally missed that when ordering. 2.2 ohm are now on order. I may end up with a bunch of spare parts now.

[Buurman]

22 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

O.M.G. Today is face-palm day

I feel your pain....been there done that, will do it many times more...

[Penatr8tor]

@claudermilk Better to have a confirmed issue with a part you can replace than some intermittent problem that's near impossible to pin down. Hopefully that's the end of the dead sensor issue. 

[claudermilk]

Exactly! Thanks for making me re-check that, I wouldn't have thought of it on my own for a long time, if ever.