Voron Tap Released!

[PFarm]

On 12/21/2022 at 8:33 AM, Buurman said:

Ok, homing and QGL with a warm hotend aint a option for sure...  so this COLD option is the only way to go.

While its hot its leaving blobs and strings everywhere, sooooo, thats no go...

Maybe this TAP isnt as great as we thought it would be hahahaha! sorry guys!

Ok, trying to think of a better start macro/order that will to a better job.. still.. kinda sad about it now, maybe its gets better  

Edit.. mhh, oh yes, this is gonna bother me  

What is your thought on using a purge bucket on the end code to clean any blobs?

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, Buurman said:

no need to change... same for the TAP or UNTAP, I will try both, but since the untap is working flawless so far, I think I will make my biulds with this,

I certainly am a follower on this. Less electronics right?

[Poisson]

Installed my TAP today. Seems to be working pretty well so far.

[Buurman]

On 12/30/2022 at 9:08 PM, PFarm said:

What is your thought on using a purge bucket on the end code to clean any blobs?

yeah, may be a good addition, I dont often have things hanging a the end of my print, but.. sure why not... testing it now

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Buurman said:

yeah, may be a good addition, I dont often have things hanging a the end of my print, but.. sure why not... testing it now

@PFarm Following on with the thread about retraction settings, I like @claudermilk have followed the e3d recommendations for a longer retraction after completion of the print -n the PRINT_END macro. This is generally done for being able to do a cold nozzle change on the Revo Voron, but it has an added benefit, that when the printer starts up - there is no leaking of filament. Then like @Buurman at the start of the PRINT_START macro, I do a nozzle wipe, heat the bed, heatsoak the chamber, heat the nozzle to 150, then do then normal startup routines. 

Has been working very well after about 40 hours of printing with consistent first layer results.

Also went back to the optical sensor and I think I am getting better consistency than with the unklicky mod - but that may just be me.

 

[Buurman]

D2HW release

So, back to micro switches... is this a bad thing? hmmmmm.... I like it, if the switch is any good that is...

https://www.digikey.nl/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2HW-C203MR/1811907

[Poisson]

3 hours ago, Buurman said:

D2HW release

So, back to micro switches... is this a bad thing? hmmmmm.... I like it, if the switch is any good that is...

https://www.digikey.nl/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2HW-C203MR/1811907

Didn't the Voron team say they tested a number of microswitches for TAP and none of them had the longevity they wanted for the system?

[claudermilk]

I think so. The point was made that the optical sensor had more longevity since there's no moving parts. I like that, and the fact that the nozzle itself is the probe. Side benefit of not making all the extra moves that Klicky needs. I'm currently digesting the troubleshooting thread on Discord and am waiting on installing right now (I have the Linneo V2.1 24V PCB). Chances are my planned setup is ok, I've seen several reports of it working. That being Linneo V2.1 -> hartk 2-piece PCB -> LDO breakout -> Octopus. I have a Linneo harness to go between the accessory PCBs.

[Buurman]

2 hours ago, Poisson said:

Didn't the Voron team say they tested a number of microswitches for TAP and none of them had the longevity they wanted for the system?

And currently they advise this... but yeah, thats to avoid the PCB for now of course.

[Poisson]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I think so. The point was made that the optical sensor had more longevity since there's no moving parts. I like that, and the fact that the nozzle itself is the probe. Side benefit of not making all the extra moves that Klicky needs. I'm currently digesting the troubleshooting thread on Discord and am waiting on installing right now (I have the Linneo V2.1 24V PCB). Chances are my planned setup is ok, I've seen several reports of it working. That being Linneo V2.1 -> hartk 2-piece PCB -> LDO breakout -> Octopus. I have a Linneo harness to go between the accessory PCBs.

I'm currently using 2.1 PCB at 24V > hartk 2-piece PCB, but no LDO breakout. Been working great for me. Have to remember to rewire the connector to the hartk PCB though when you recrimp it as the order coming from the 2.1 PCB does not match.

[Wick]

there's a workaround to avoid magic smoke on 2.1 sensors in the meantime, pls read here: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/issues/42

Edited January 5, 2023 by Wick

[Todd]

Completed the Tap build. Still tinkering with it and have learned a lot in the process. The biggest thing I’ve noticed with the BOM is that it is missing one key item - a metric butt load of expletives. Don’t take this the wrong way, this mod is awesome, but it will try your patience and test your abilities to see tiny details like crimps of JST or Molex Micro connectors. Your manual dexterity will be put to the test more than Call of Duty ever could. All-in-all though, we all sign up for these types of challenges and exercises in frustration when we decide to take on the challenges of pushing ourselves to see if we can achieve the nearly impossible. Congratulations to those who undertake this endeavor, and remember we are here to hopefully answer questions as they arise. 
 

May the force be with you!

[smirk]

4 hours ago, Todd said:

Your manual dexterity will be put to the test more than Call of Duty ever could

Hoorah! Good news for the older (and fat fingered) cohort of the forum. Call of Duty? Is that like one of those video game things you young 'uns play like SpaceWars?

As you say, hats off to anyone undertaking the challenge.

[Penatr8tor]

Just got my FYSETC Tap kit from AliExpress... Looks complete, should be an interesting build.

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Just got my FYSETC Tap kit from AliExpress... Looks complete, should be an interesting build

Nicely packed, Sure you will enjoy the build. The belt management on the TAP is soo much better than the original.

[Todd]

Did it come with the big bag of patience needed? The build is great (self-sourced everything), but it’s not for the faint of heart. Best of luck and keep us posted on results, please.

[Penatr8tor]

On 1/14/2023 at 9:11 AM, Todd said:

Did it come with the big bag of patience needed? The build is great (self-sourced everything), but it’s not for the faint of heart. Best of luck and keep us posted on results, please.

I tend to buy things for projects that are a bit far off in the future. I want to finish my Switchwire build before I rip apart my 2.4 first though. My 2.4 needs a new bed heater as the current Vivendo unit from Formbot has a bad thermistor that I bypassed with an separate unit. New bed heater is a Fabreeko Honey Badger full coverage unit. I also have a Bondtech LGX Lite extruder for it as well so when the time comes there will be a few things getting swapped out and replaced. I'll definitely make a post on the 2.4 refit as well as the remainder of the Switchwire build.

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'll definitely make a post on the 2.4 refit as well as the remainder of the Switchwire build.

I can't wait!

[ahough]

Well, I just cooked another inductive probe on the old afterburner, and I think it's time to jump into this project. I just ordered all of my parts to upgrade to the Clockwork 2, Stealthburner, MGN12 x-axis, and of course the TAP. The optical sensors and PCB are definitely still hard to find and overpriced if you find them, but I decided to fork up the cash so I didn't have to tear this thing down again if the untap mod fails (even though it sounds like people have had decent results with it). I'm looking forward to giving this thing a go when my parts arrive.

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, ahough said:

The optical sensors and PCB are definitely still hard to find and overpriced if you find them, but I decided to fork up the cash so I didn't have to tear this thing down again if the untap mod fails

From my experience, the untapped is good but optical is better in accuracy and getting less errors with it

[Buurman]

I will try others too, but have a really good experience with the untap.

The screws you use, I filed off the pointy part, just making a little flat, and better contact.

I really paid attention to a smooth operation of the moving part.

For me, its never off and I get really stable results, with cold or hot chamber, I use 0.007500 as maximum tolerance and often are on 0.003500.

I think the optical sensor is cool, and sure, it takes away a mechanical part that may wear, but you add a piece of s... PCB, and we know how well these are build...

My next one will be with a switch, so its more like the original Klicky, and im curious how it will work.

I do still feel the magnetic part of the TAP is.. muah.. it more the weight keeping it in place than the magnetism, I am going to try magnet on magnet try, but that will take some time.

So yeah, TAP is cool, still finding a ideal start macro for it, now I am cooling off at least ones to probe, and I expect improvements.

[claudermilk]

Well, I tried Tapping this weekend and it didn't go well. No smoke--I put the suggested resistor in so that is good so far. The issue I am having is the LED on the V2.1 PCB lights up, and won't turn off. For some reason the optical sensor will not trigger at all. I currently have the board hanging loose and even when I cram some black cardboard in the sensor slot it does not react. I'm not sure if I have a bum board or if wiring is messed up or what. I'm reusing the stock spec probe wiring in my harness (24V/S/GND) which still has the BAT85 soldered in line. Still on the same pins on the controller--I haven't gone in there to mess with anything.

Plan B is to swap out to UnTap later today if I have time. I also found one of the recommended wired optical sensors in stock at Digikey, so I ordered a couple of those to try for plan C.

[Penatr8tor]

7 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Well, I tried Tapping this weekend and it didn't go well.

Well... That Sux. I saw you on Nero3D's stream yesterday. He had his share of drama although it was mainly due to an old Fluidd install.

I printed up everything I need for my TAP upgrade as well as SB mount for an LGX Lite that's going to replace my old CW1.

I bought my TAP kit from FYSETC and the sensor is on a PCB with a good number of additional components on it so I'm wondering if I even need a resistor in-line.

[claudermilk]

You mean Steve's stream.  Yeah, trying this while semi-distracted by his Micron build probably wasn't the optimal idea.

That is the V2.1 24V PCB. I have the same one. Note the 5-24V silkscreen. The 5V boards appear to have almost no components aside from the sensor and plug. So, you will want the inline resistor. Here's what I ordered and installed. No smoke with this.

Here's my 24V PCB and the little harness I built.

It's the U2 part that apparently releases the smoke.

[Penatr8tor]

44 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

You mean Steve's stream. 

Is this not you helping out Nero? Maybe your clone is trolling Nero's livestream. 

Anyways... That's good info. I definitely need to research further before diving in. I'm not seeing the need for a resistor in any of the documentation. I'm probably incorrectly assuming that the 2.2k resistor is to step 24V down to 5V with a current draw of around .01 amps and if there's already a voltage regulator on the Version 2 pcb... 5V stepped down from 24V might not be supplying enough power to get the regulator flowing current to the sensor. Maybe try using a 1.4K Ohm resistor which will step 24V down to 12V.