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Voron Tap Released!


Demosth

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As mentioned on other threads and on the Voron Discord, the new high tech carriage for Voron has been released. Congrats t the dev team and everyone involved in testing.

The official Repo is here: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap

You can also view the manual and download the files directly from TeamFDM here.


Looking forward to seeing some build diaries and builds on the forms seeing this awesome upgrade in action!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just received my short MGN9 rail and carrier today. Looking forward to this mod! 
 

To start with, the Voron 2.4r2 is great as is, and the StealthBurner is a slam dunk, but adding the TAP to the carriage is a no-brainer. The mechanics make total sense and achieving absolute stability in a plane is one of the “holy grails” of printing that everyone should be striving for. 
 

Next mission for me is to start working on a predictive analytics approach. Allow me to explain….

The current state of our AM world has us by-and-large setting parameters, monitoring outputs, and choosing to accept or reject the outcome. The challenge with that approach is that when the outcome deviates from expectations we can only observe and/or halt the process. What if we had algorithms that utilized sensor input and other available data and fed those data points into a predictive analytics engine that could correct deviations as they occur, and prevent problems from arising before they spoiled the print? What we’re talking about here is the ability to create a virtually flawless print (within the limits of the printer, obviously).

A simple question for this forum’s members…..Interested in participating?

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18 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I ordered few sets over Discord group from https://www.printyplease.uk/VoronTap?search=tap

On no! Why did I again choose to self source. Oh. right , I'm down under where everything takes longer. Although there is a supplier here in Melbourne that has the full kits (currently OUT OF STOCK) for $49.50 AUD (32 euro ex postage)

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1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Why did I again choose to self source.

inpatient.... like me, I now have 5 sensors that I probably will give away as reserve sensors... and 3 rails, yet, hey are great quality, so I will chose to use these..

Like I said, maybe we will all use unklicky soon, no need for all that sensor high tech shit 😛 less electronics!!! hahaha!

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On 12/12/2022 at 10:44 AM, Buurman said:

I now have 5 sensors that I probably will give away as reserve sensors... and 3 rails, yet, hey are great quality, so I will chose to use these..

The solution is simple you must build more Voron's so all those taps are not wasted....

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21 hours ago, Poisson said:

I preordered a 24V kit from Fabreeko when they went up. Not sure when it is going to ship though.

Soon. I think the V2 PCBs were supposed to start to be available next week. My KB-3D order says 24V ETA is Christmas Eve. So I expect shipping sometime in the following week.

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One thing about this TAP stuff...

This COLD bed levelling with a tap... quite annoying... as I understand the advise is to only use in under 150 degrees?

This really screws up my start macro, now it heats up, cools down, heats up, cools down.. hahaha!

Trying to move the G28 up and the QGL, it says, extruder not hot enough.. argh.. 

Something to experiment with?

 

AH.. EDIT:

This is just if you want to probe cold, not so much an advise, placed like this in the instructions I felt is was a must.. yeah.. read..

So I am taking this out, possibly homing on a different location than the middle to prevent filament on the bed...

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4 minutes ago, Buurman said:

One thing about this TAP stuff...

This COLD bed levelling with a tap... quite annoying... as I understand the advise is to only use in under 150 degrees?

This really screws up my start macro, now it heats up, cools down, heats up, cools down.. hahaha!

Trying to move the G28 up and the QGL, it says, extruder not hot enough.. argh.. 

Something to experiment with?

Big brain idea here, put a higher wattage heater cartridge in so it heats back up fast enough to not get "extruder not hot enough".

I mean, what could go wrong? 😛

Edited by Poisson
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Ok, homing and QGL with a warm hotend aint a option for sure...  so this COLD option is the only way to go.

While its hot its leaving blobs and strings everywhere, sooooo, thats no go...

Maybe this TAP isnt as great as we thought it would be hahahaha! sorry guys!

Ok, trying to think of a better start macro/order that will to a better job.. still.. kinda sad about it now, maybe its gets better 😉 

 

Edit.. mhh, oh yes, this is gonna bother me 😛 

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Try this:

 

 

[gcode_macro G32]
gcode:
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_G32
    G90
    #
    STATUS_HOMING
    G28
    #
    STATUS_LEVELING
    #
    # Clear mesh. Seems to mess up QGL otherwise.
    BED_MESH_CLEAR
    #
    M118 Quad Gantry Leveling...
    M117 QGL...
    QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
    #
    M118 Bed Mesh Calibration...
    M117 Bed Mesh...
    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
    #
    #CLEAN_NOZZLE
    #
    #STATUS_CALIBRATING_Z
    #CALIBRATE_Z
    #
    # Don't home again if using CALIBRATE_Z after this otherwise offset will be reset
    STATUS_HOMING
    G28
    ##  Uncomment for for your size printer:
    #--------------------------------------------------------------------
    ##  Uncomment for 250mm build
    #G0 X125 Y125 Z30 F3600
    
    ##  Uncomment for 300 build
    #G0 X150 Y150 Z30 F3600
    
    ##  Uncomment for 350mm build
    G0 X175 Y175 Z30 F3600
    #--------------------------------------------------------------------
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_G32
    STATUS_READY

# Cura Klipper Start:
# SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=PRINT_START VARIABLE=bed_temp VALUE={material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
# SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=PRINT_START VARIABLE=extruder_temp VALUE={material_print_temperature_layer_0}
# PRINT_START

# Cura Klipper End:
# SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=PRINT_END VARIABLE=machine_depth VALUE={machine_depth}
# PRINT_END

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
variable_bed_temp: 100
variable_extruder_temp: 240
#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
    #
    # chirp to indicate starting to print
    M300 S1000 P500 
    #
    M118 Bed Temp: {bed_temp} Extruder temp: {extruder_temp}
    #
    {% set th = printer.toolhead %}
    #
    STATUS_HEATING
    G92 E0   ; reset extruder
    # Wait for bed to reach 60 degrees then start heating to print temperature. 
    #Temperature_wait sensor="heater_bed" minimum=60
    {% if printer.heater_bed.temperature <= 60 %}
      M190 S60
    {% endif %}
    # Start bed heating to full temp, but do not wait to reach temp.
    M140 S{bed_temp}
    # Wait for extruder to reach 140 degrees.
    #Temperature_wait sensor="temperature_sensor extruder" maxmium=140
    {% if printer.extruder.temperature <= 140 %}
      M109 S140
    {% endif %}
    #
    STATUS_HOMING
    G28
    #
    # Needs to be after nozzle is up to temperature and homed.
    STATUS_CLEANING
    CLEAN_NOZZLE
    #
    G32                           
    #
    STATUS_HEATING
    # Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature
    M118 Extruder Heating...
    M117 Ext Heat...
    M109 S{extruder_temp}
    #
    # Wait for bed to reach temperature
    M118 Bed Heating...
    M117 Bed Heating...
    M190 S{bed_temp}
    #
    G90                            ; absolute positioning
    G1 Z20 F3000                   ; move nozzle away from bed
    G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
    #
    STATUS_PRINTING
    #
    # Print test line. Assumes preheating has already occurred.
    M118 Printing Test Line...
    M117 Test Line...
    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
    G1 X10.0 Y0.1 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
    G1 X{th.axis_maximum.y - 20} Y0.1 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
    G1 X{th.axis_maximum.y - 20} Y0.5 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
    G1 X10.0 Y0.5 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
    G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
    G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
    #
    # Copied from gcode_macro G32 above
    ##  Uncomment for for your size printer:
    #--------------------------------------------------------------------
    ##  Uncomment for 250mm build
    #G0 X125 Y125 Z30 F3600
    
    ##  Uncomment for 300 build
    #G0 X150 Y150 Z30 F3600
    
    ##  Uncomment for 350mm build
    G0 X175 Y175 Z30 F3600
    #--------------------------------------------------------------------
    M118 Printing...
    M117 Printing...
 

 

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8 hours ago, Buurman said:

One thing about this TAP stuff...

This COLD bed levelling with a tap... quite annoying... as I understand the advise is to only use in under 150 degrees?

This really screws up my start macro, now it heats up, cools down, heats up, cools down.. hahaha!

Trying to move the G28 up and the QGL, it says, extruder not hot enough.. argh.. 

Something to experiment with?

AH.. EDIT:

This is just if you want to probe cold, not so much an advise, placed like this in the instructions I felt is was a must.. yeah.. read..

So I am taking this out, possibly homing on a different location than the middle to prevent filament on the bed...

What hotend are you using? My Revo heats up fast. 

Also,"only use under 150 degrees"? What'chu talkin' 'bout WIllis? The script shows 150-155 as acceptable temps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am using the Revo too, but I been getting inconsistent bed levelling, more to do with the TAP than the Revo for sure.

So after much experimenting, I now have it accurate (it seems) after many fails.

Bed levelling with your nozzle is cool, but the smallest blob on the end of your nozzle will fuck  funk it up.

Sure, a longer retration on the end macro will help for sure, but, not foolproof...

So what I do now is heat up bed, a G28 cold, then heat up nozzle, scrub it, then a new G28 and a QGL, again a scrub and then print.

This way I have not seen any failures on the first layer, what I did see before, it just been of for just a little sometimes.

@claudermilkI cant find the post but you been saying you use a quite long retraction on your Revo, and I have been experimenting a lot, but maybe you want to try my now good working setting with quite a short retraction. I have been reading interesting tests from a dude with 20/30 revo machines, and he came to these results to work best.

Retraction: 0.4
Retraction Speed (both): 60 mm/s
Lift Z: 0.2 (or 0.1)
Wipe on Retraction: ON
Wipe Speed: I have it default travel speed

I have no strings this way.

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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

I am using the Revo too, but I been getting inconsistent bed levelling, more to do with the TAP than the Revo for sure.

So after much experimenting, I now have it accurate (it seems) after many fails.

Bed levelling with your nozzle is cool, but the smallest blob on the end of your nozzle will fuck  funk it up.

Sure, a longer retration on the end macro will help for sure, but, not foolproof...

So what I do now is heat up bed, a G28 cold, then heat up nozzle, scrub it, then a new G28 and a QGL, again a scrub and then print.

This way I have not seen any failures on the first layer, what I did see before, it just been of for just a little sometimes.

@claudermilkI cant find the post but you been saying you use a quite long retraction on your Revo, and I have been experimenting a lot, but maybe you want to try my now good working setting with quite a short retraction. I have been reading interesting tests from a dude with 20/30 revo machines, and he came to these results to work best.

Retraction: 0.4
Retraction Speed (both): 60 mm/s
Lift Z: 0.2 (or 0.1)
Wipe on Retraction: ON
Wipe Speed: I have it default travel speed

I have no strings this way.

My in-print retraction is around 0.7. The big 10-18mm retractions are for after the print. That comes from E3D's recommendations.

https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4406857421213-Start-and-End-G-code-for-faster-nozzle-changes

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1 minute ago, claudermilk said:

My in-print retraction is around 0.7. The big 10-18mm retractions are for after the print. That comes from E3D's recommendations.

https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4406857421213-Start-and-End-G-code-for-faster-nozzle-changes

aaaah, that makes way more sense!! I was thinking.. how much?!? Still.. you can try to lower it to 0.4 if you wish to 😛 

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15 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I kinda knew you would say that. I already have the v2 PCB in hand, and cannot immediately work on the printer, so I can wait a bit to see what they find.

I might play with retractions again later, but 0.7 give or take has worked well for me.

If it works it works, no need to change... same for the TAP or UNTAP, I will try both, but since the untap is working flawless so far, I think I will make my biulds with this, since I dont need to wait for parts, and dont need to charge extra for it...

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