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First Build - v0.1


Immo1282
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Got the last box (for now) of parts in the post earlier in the week - a PIF kit from Slidr over on Discord, and there was some time late this week to get the build started!

Spent last night cleaning and greasing the linear rails & fitting them to the required extrusions & building the bed carrier. Looked over my work this evening and 3 of the 4 Y/Z rails were in the wrong side of each extrusion... Hopefully that will teach me not to work on it late in the evening!

Thought I'd have a problem getting the Z rails trammed, but a glass-ceramic stovetop was flat enough to sort that out. Hopefully it'll be accurate enough, but we'll see when I get around to tuning I suppose.

I'm building with a Formbot kit - and the M3 screws are unfortunately quite soft - I've partially stripped two of them already. Both on blind joints, but tapping a T8 screwdriver into the chewed up screwhead seems to have been enough to get them to loosen off. I caution people against using ball-head hex keys too much with the formbot kit, It'll lead to headaches.

Aside from that, the kit parts look great. Don't have to worry about sourcing a Pi as I've an old 3B lying around from years ago that I plan to use.

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Edited by Immo1282
typos fixed
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Looking good so far. Screws on these printers need a lighter touch than you would think going in, if they are stripping they are getting over-tightened.

Your glass stove top should be fine for building square, I used my granite countertop. Just use a square and measure the diagonals once you get the front bolted on. It will take a little tweaking, but getting things as close as you can early helps down the road.

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Little update 🙂

Finished the frame, axes and bed on Friday, and yesterday morning moved onto building the mini afterburner. I've used some Wago 221 connectors under the bed and on the bottom panel to connect the bed wiring, felt it'd be better if I ever swap the bed.

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It was going together fine - filed down the drive gear shaft using the jig & assembled with my hotend (Dragon). There was some binding/tightness in the large gear when the latch was closed, but I couldn't see anything obvious that was wrong, and after a few times dismantling and re-assembling, it loosened up. Still not sure what changed but I may end up swapping to something like Mini AfterSherpa or similar if I have any trouble.

I'm using the umbilical board from timmit99 from the UserMods github, so I'll need to shorten all wires at the toolhead. Unfortunately the crimper that I thought I had is not compatible with JST-XH so I'm going to see if I can borrow one from work this week, and failing that I'll order one to finish the wiring job. Bottom panel wiring is pretty neat now though 🙂

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update - Haven't had a lot of time to work on the Voron this week - but I've finished the back-panel wiring and most of the toolhead wiring now that the right crimp tool came in the post. I'm not about this weekend so again I'll have to delay the first print and tuning until life frees up a little.

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No new photos this time - but I had it all together for a first power-on last night (I'd flashed the controller and installed MainsailOS previously) - Turns out that I'd miswired the A/B/Z motors to my SKR Mini e3 v3.0 - the pin labelling in the drawings is really ambiguous. Swapped the pins around in the JST connectors and that was fixed. Some minor tweaks to printer.cfg (direction & run current) and the XYZ homes perfectly.

Unfortunately, I did also miswire the hotend fan - to the wrong port on the controller, and also without changing the + side to 5V instead of 24V, so it let out the magic smoke, and so another 3007/5V fan is on order 🙂

Something's telling me it's not smart to work on this after 11PM when I've got work the next day - but summer's always busy so lousy timing on my part...

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3 minutes ago, Immo1282 said:

Unfortunately, I did also miswire the hotend fan - to the wrong port on the controller, and also without changing the + side to 5V instead of 24V, so it let out the magic smoke, and so another 3007/5V fan is on order

These things happen. I am running a 24V fan on the hottend - a little more noisy but less fiddling around installing it.

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On 8/15/2022 at 11:16 AM, mvdveer said:

These things happen. I am running a 24V fan on the hottend - a little more noisy but less fiddling around installing it.

What toolhead is on yours? I couldn't find any manufacturers making a 24V 30x30x7mm fan to fit in the standard Mini Afterburner.

Had a little bit of time today, so I've replaced the dead extruder fan and have running through most of the setup guide. Haven't done a successful first print quite yet, so it's not ready to apply for a serial - but I'm getting much closer.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Immo1282 said:

What toolhead is on yours?

I have a Revo-voron toolhead with a LGX Lite  mod.  And I have a 24V 3010 fan as the hotted cooling fan. With the LGX mod, the toolhead holder can be printed for a 3007 or 3010 fan, depending on the one you use.

See https://www.bondtech.se/2021/12/27/voron-v0-1-toolhead-setup-for-lgx-lite/ for details

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another update - Had a bit of a gap since I could last spend some time working on the printer, and I've been wracking my brain for a solution to my extruder skipping steps while I couldn't work on the printer. Dusted it off today and it works great. My filament is old and wet, so I'm going to crack open a new roll in a bit but I can get it to extrude nicely up to about 16-17mm^3/s

Turns out I was reading the wrong units on Mainsail - I read mm/s as mm^3/s and therefore was attempting to extrude at 25mm^3/s with a Dragon SF hotend & 0.4mm nozzle 🤦‍♂️

On to getting the first print going tonight, then going to go through and follow the tuning guide as best as possible.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Went through the steps in Ellis' tuning guide and have quality that I'm happy with for now.

Only step left is to run input shaper and get the speed up, I'm still running fairly conservative acceleration numbers at the moment. No reason I can't crank it up a lot - but this was printed in around 20 minutes with accelerations capped at 3500mm/s^2.

Have submitted a serial request, it's starting to feel like a proper Voron now not just a bunch of parts slapped together 🙂

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1 hour ago, Immo1282 said:

Went through the steps in Ellis' tuning guide and have quality that I'm happy with for now.

Good prints! Well worth spending the time going through Ellis's tuning guide. Combine this with his profile and you will never look back. Just finished tuning the new switchwire as per his guides and loaded his profile in super slicer. Busy fine tuning to the printer.

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  • 1 month later...

Had my hotend fan die mid-print a couple of weeks back. Have been busy so didn't get a chance to assess the damage until tonight...

Have had to take a blowtorch to my heatbreak & the Mini Afterburner cowling is quite badly warped/melted. Can't print the replacement bits for the cowling now that my only working printer has gone and hurt itself. Might have to ask a friend or buy one online to get back up and running.

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Thank you! that's very kind 🙂 I've asked couple of friends nearby with printers if they think they'd be able to print one, so I might ask around them first to see if I can get a cowl to tide me over until v0.1993 is back up and running!

First thing to do once I'm back printing will be to run off a set of spares...

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7 hours ago, Immo1282 said:

First thing to do once I'm back printing will be to run off a set of spares...

Yup, valuable lesson, you can never have too many spares. It's saved my bacon a few times when something had woren out (like the guidler) or I've just muffed up a heat-insert.

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