VzBot 330

[TitusADuxass]

24 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Currently flat out with work, but here are my VZBot AWD config files. Printer printing beautifully. Maybe this will shed some light.

printer.cfg 41.65 kB · 0 downloads beacon.cfg 1.21 kB · 0 downloads macros.cfg 25.49 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks mate.

I have my old config files for when it had the Mellow Super 8 fitted. It just doesn't seem to like the Kraken mainboard.

I'll take a look your files and see if anything jumps out at me.

[TitusADuxass]

I think I've got it now. 

It appears that my old brain doesn't work correctly when faced with too many variables.

The rear of the printer faces into the room, laptop faces into the room but 180 degs away from the printer, the printer motor layout diagram looks front to rear, etc.

Anyway, I deleted the stepper motor sections from my printer.cfg and then addressed each motor separately and didn't move on to the next stepper until everything was working and going in the correct directions.

[TitusADuxass]

A quick update.

All is well and the Vz is running smoothly, and with a 0.8mm nozzle it fair lays down some plastic.

I just have to develop a better mount for the SHT36 and install the RSCS. I tried printing a Temp Tower in PLA, the 0.8mm nozzle puts out some much filament that the CPAP cannot cool it quick enough.

I get back on it when I return from Italy in 2 weeks.

[TitusADuxass]

i was doing a bit of a clean up and found this lower right front.

It looks like muggins here forgot the thread locking compound.

It took quite a bit of work to get to that screw (locking compound now applied):

[TitusADuxass]

So, I've now got my SHT36 v3 mount done.

I am still working on the repositioning of the CPAP tube intake. I was having problems with the CPAP Tube, the internal thin tubing/sleeve was collapsing and restricting airflow. I'm now running it horizontally from toolhead to rear panel. It's also supported by a length of stainless TIG wire.

 

Thanks to @GalvanicGlaze for the bowden tube support mod.

[Penatr8tor]

Looking really good @TitusADuxass 

I powered mine on this morning for the first time in 7 weeks. I have to update my RatRig (I'll make a post) this week, then I will design a side mounted drag chain setup for the VZ. I have grown to hate the umbilical situation on that printer. Need something better.

I'm also having issues with the bed heater. I set the bed to print temp and the bed heats up and right when it gets to the set temp, the temp on the heater drops and the printer faults. It could be the internal thermistor is bad or could be a SSR issue. I get around the error by restarting the printer. Works for now but needs fixing.

[TitusADuxass]

In case anyone is interested here is my SHT36 v36 mount, it should work on other SHT36 variants.

Big tip of the day - do NOT plug the Hotend Thermistor in to the fan socket (and the HE fan into the thermistor socket) on the SHT36!

Now I've got to wait on a new SHT36.

 

Vz330 AWD SHT36 v3 Mount (1).step

[TitusADuxass]

On 6/25/2025 at 5:07 PM, Penatr8tor said:

Looking really good @TitusADuxass then I will design a side mounted drag chain setup for the VZ. I have grown to hate the umbilical situation on that printer. Need something better.

I really don't like the umbilical either, never thought about drag chains though.

I'll be watching your posts.

 

[Penatr8tor]

6 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I really don't like the umbilical either, never thought about drag chains though.

I'll be watching your posts.

Yup, it's time to dive into printers again. Work has been keeping me super busy.

[mvdveer]

14 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

up, it's time to dive into printers again. Work has been keeping me super busy.

Seems we're all in the same boat here

[TitusADuxass]

I ordered a new SHT36 last Thursday,  it arrived today. 4 days in total. Can't grumble at that speed.

[TitusADuxass]

Don't you just hate it when this happens?

I just wanted to change the hot end boot.

Now waiting in spares again.

[Penatr8tor]

Dude what? Is that your goliath hotend?

[claudermilk]

OMG. It's shattered.

[TitusADuxass]

Don't panic guys, it's just the thermistor. 

The wires become hardened with heat and snap off.

This isn't the first time that it's happened to me.

This one of my two dislikes with the Goliath HE - this and the boot which needs replacing regularly.

It's time for a change - A Rapido Plus 2 UHF has been ordered along with an alu Orbiter 2 adaptor plate.

[TitusADuxass]

So the first large print for the Doron Velta came out like this.

There's some serious cooling issues going on there.

Investigation led to this.

The liner of the CPAP tube has become detached from the spiral. This causes it to collapse in on itself blocking the flow of air.

I reversed the CPAP tube and cut the end off, it was just long enough to reach the fan. A new CPAP tube has been ordered.

[TitusADuxass]

Time to ditch the Goliath and Hextruder.

I've never got on with this combination. I particulary dislike the extruder.

So it's time for an Orbiter 2 and a Rapido 2 UHF.

And the CPAP tube needs replacing.

 

[mvdveer]

15 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I've never got on with this combination. I particulary dislike the extruder.

I am bound to agree with you on this one. Just have been too lazy to swap it out.

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Time to ditch the Goliath and Hextruder.

I've never got on with this combination. I particulary dislike the extruder.

So it's time for an Orbiter 2 and a Rapido 2 UHF.

And the CPAP tube needs replacing.

I have to say... The Hextrudort and the Goliath can be finicky, but I haven't experienced the issues you've had. For me the only thing I have an issue with is loading filament and that's mostly because my bowden tube is bent over to one side.

If I were to replace my setup on the VZ I would definitely go with the Orbiter 2 and Rapido 2+ UHF combo but I would add an Orbitool CAN board and Filament sensor. If you want a toolhead board that won't break or get fried from a short... watch this.

The filament sensor is awesome. Press the button and the hotend heats up and retracts the filament and the LED ring around the bowden tube turns red. Insert new filament and once it triggers the sensor, it pulls the filament in about ~30mm and heats the nozzle. Once it's up to temp it pulls in enough filament to purge out the old material. Over the past few months of use this combo has proven to not only be very robust but also very repeatable. The Orbiter is a good extruder but pales in comparison to the full Monty with Orbitool board and Sensor module.

@mvdveer This might be a good combo for you. From a strictly selfish standpoint... I would love to get your feedback on the Orbitool board and Filament sensor w/ Orbiter combo.

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

This might be a good combo for you.

All I need is the orbiter toolboard as I have 4 Rapido UHF and 4 Rapido ACE hotends from the abandoned Lineux project.  Will put in an order and change out the VZBOT setup. On the mercury one I am building, I have the Orbiter 2 and Rapido ACE as the toolhead. May have to get a toolboard for this one as well.

 

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Orbitool CAN board

Seems USB not Can?

[TitusADuxass]

@Penatr8tor I'm running a SHT36 as a tool board.

I've got a BTT SFS v2 that I'm thinking about using but they can be a bit of a pain to set up.

I've got a Smart Orbiter 3 + toolboard for my V0 but have yet to set it up. I keep getting distracted by modifications.  I'm beginning to think that I build printers just so that I can enter into a loop of modifications. 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

I'm beginning to think that I build printers just so that I can enter into a loop of modifications.

You finally got it. Took you long enough 

[Penatr8tor]

13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Seems USB not Can?

You are correct sir... 

It definitely "appears to be" CAN to the USB/CAN daughter board similar to the Mellow and BTT boards, but while the Orbitool has no USB port on it like the others... It mentions in the manual that it's automotive USB. So, it looks like it's CAN because of the cabling... but it's not.

 Orbitool Manual

Quote

The board is supplied via an XT30 (2+2) connector, which includes +24V, GND, USB_DATA+ and USB_DATA- signals.

Quote

The tool-board is equipped with an automotive grade USB interface. The main difference is the higher electrical robustness of the automotive USB, still maintaining highest possible communication speed. Therefore, if the USB data lines are short-to-GND or up to +28V, it will not cause any destruction and will work properly after the short circuit is removed. The same circuit offers protection in case of GND connection loss, which will lead to biasing all the communication signals to the supply positive line (in our case, +24V). The USB interface of the Raspberry Pi is not robust against these electrical hazards that may occur in a 3D printer. Therefore, the tool-board shall be supplied and connected to the Raspberry Pi using the supplied adapter board, which has onboard protection circuits to protect the Raspberry Pi USB port.

Either way... I had a really good experience with mine, and still do, and the filament sensor is awesome... A real quality of life upgrade IMO.

[TitusADuxass]

New set up completed.

Time to start calibrating...