VzBot 330

[Penatr8tor]

3 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I suspect that the Beacon has a heat problem.

Everything has a heat problem. Just depends on how much heat. 

I guess I never pushed my printer as hard as you are. I've never had a problem, but then again... I try not to fill the bed up with a lot of parts and most of the larger stuff I'm printing is in PLA.

[TitusADuxass]

16 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I try not to fill the bed up with a lot of parts and most of the larger stuff I'm printing is in PLA.

Nearly everything that I print is in ABS, mainly because of outdoor use.

I should probably get a PETG profile tuned in. PETG is probably as good as ABS outdoors.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

PETG is probably as good as ABS outdoors.

ASA best for outdoor as it is UV, chemical and water resistant. But PETG will last outdoors - no doubt about that. Interesting video where filaments were compared ag=fter 7years of outdoor exposure. PETG at 8:59 in the video

 

[TitusADuxass]

33 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

ASA best for outdoor as it is UV, chemical and water resistant. But PETG will last outdoors - no doubt about that. Interesting video where filaments were compared ag=fter 7years of outdoor exposure. PETG at 8:59 in the video

ASA is a bit better than ABS, I've seen that video. 

I've got some printed parts holding the cat net on my balcony, there's a mix of PETG and ABS. They're both black so will soak up the sun and heat. It'll be interesting to see which is more durable.

I should really print more PETG, but it's such a stringy bugger.

[mvdveer]

9 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I should really print more PETG, but it's such a stringy bugger.

It is, but not as bad as TPU. Also I struggle with PETG first layers it generally does not need as much squish as ABS. Haven't printed PETG for a while.

[TitusADuxass]

So this morning  I thought I'd run some PETG through the beast.

Started with the usual temperature tower.

What a bloody mess,  I've got a bit of tuning to do - PETG - Satan's filament.

[TitusADuxass]

The other side of the tower is better.

[Penatr8tor]

On 7/27/2024 at 2:31 AM, mvdveer said:

It is, but not as bad as TPU. Also I struggle with PETG first layers it generally does not need as much squish as ABS. Haven't printed PETG for a while.

Me too. I bought a bunch of PETG to play around with and it might be a good material print on the RatRig since it doesn't have an enclosure.

Yet. 

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

What a bloody mess,  I've got a bit of tuning to do - PETG - Satan's filament.

That stuff needs a good dry.

After buying a couple dry boxes... I finally settled on the Eibos dryer. Pricey but works. It has little chambers for desiccant packets, fans to move the air around and motorized rollers to rotate the spools while things are drying (not printing). 

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor Some nice features on that dryer!

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, PFarm said:

@Penatr8tor Some nice features on that dryer!

Yes, definitely worth the money IMO

 

[TitusADuxass]

14 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

That stuff needs a good dry.

I've now got it in my Sunluu dryer. It's at 62% rh.

That's a brand new roll I purchased yesterday, but I've no idea when it was Producer.

[TitusADuxass]

I'm still tinkering and tuning, I love this hobby.

I did notice that my X & Y dimensions were a couple of mm out over 200mm.

So I downloaded a "calibration" cross from printables and did some belt tension tuning.

I didn't use a gauge or an app, I just went by feel at first and then gradual tension adjuistments and cross reprinting.

I put the cross at 45 deg on the bed, I read somewhere that this orientation isolates the X & Y.

This is X.

And Y.

I don't think I'll go chasing zeros, 0.07 and 0.15 error is pretty good for an FDM printer.

I did notice that there's a bit of over extrusion, the cross has the axes label. I could read them  when I printed it out at 300 mm but couldn't on the 150mm.

[Penatr8tor]

4 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I don't think I'll go chasing zeros, 0.07 and 0.15 error is pretty good for an FDM printer.

Yup, Agree. Over a distance of 150mm... not bad at all.

I've also found that a lot of dimensional inaccuracies like press fit on nuts and magnets, pegs in holes, etc. are more extrusion based rather than the motion works being skewed. I mean it could be the other way around, but most builders are paying a enough attention frame squareness and linear rail alignment that it's really not an issue anymore.

It is fun to tinker and dial things in tho. 

[TitusADuxass]

It's all gone Pete Tong!!

All of a sudden I am getting incremental layer shifts in both X & Y.

I've stripped the mechanics down and checked:

the rails - free running and greased

the belts - equal tension and not overly tight / loose

pulleys - all grub screws are secure.

After reassembly I ran another print and now get for stepper X - Unable to write tmc spi ‘stepper_a’ register GLOBALSCALER

I am fairly sure that the mechanics are in order, so it's either a stepper motor issue or PSU issue. I have my PSUs underneath, they run at around 45c which I don't think is overly hot.

Thoughts please good people.

 

 

[Penatr8tor]

Sounds like you may have a bad 5160 stepper board. 

First, I would check connections to the stepper driver boards.

Then check if it's a heat related issue. Error occurs when it's hot, etc.

Swap the suspect board with a good "Y" board and see if the error moves to the Y.

During Steve_Builds VZ235 build. Below is the vid where he got the error and determined that his driver board was bad.

I have the video cued up to where the error occurred, I don't know if it will help at all, but it might, you never know.

 

[TitusADuxass]

So I swapped X driver with Y - the fault stayed with X

Then I swapped X ribbon cable with Y - the fault stayed with X

So I swapped X 5160 with Y - the fault has been cleared.

So it was either a bad ribbon cable connection or a bad 5160 connection - I think I'll be ordering a spare set of 5160s.

[TitusADuxass]

Scheiße!! They are 23 yoyos each!!

Oh well, it's only money. The last shirt has no pockets.

[TitusADuxass]

Back to normal now.

Just like working on an F4, take the LRU out of the rack, give it a good coat of looking at and slam it back in the rack  - fixes about 80% of the failures.

[Penatr8tor]

Sh!t happens... we correct and adapt.

I just had the power company quick cycle my electricity... Now my webcam on the RatRig isn't working. Great...

I don't really feel like F'n with it at the moment.

[claudermilk]

3 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Sh!t happens... we correct and adapt.

I just had the power company quick cycle my electricity... Now my webcam on the RatRig isn't working. Great...

I don't really feel like F'n with it at the moment.

I hear that. I'm just getting ready to face reloading the Trident (again). Some other projects have been sorted so I feel I have the mental capacity to tackle a Klipper load again.

[Penatr8tor]

17 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I hear that. I'm just getting ready to face reloading the Trident (again). Some other projects have been sorted so I feel I have the mental capacity to tackle a Klipper load again.

I swapped in a different camera... no luck. Didn't think that was the problem but wanted to confirm.

I'm also having and issue with moonraker timing out after 4 tries when booting. I can press the retry button on klipperscreen and the printer will boot and run but no camera. Right now, I'm backing up my sd card because I think I might have to reload and setup everything from scratch to resolve this issue. It's RatOS so not your run of the mill klipper install.

We will see... 

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I swapped in a different camera... no luck. Didn't think that was the problem but wanted to confirm

Maybe just try re-installing crowsnest first to see if that changes anything.

[TitusADuxass]

My 330 is running so smoothly, it's time to break it. I mean "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" does not apply to 3D printers right?

I have an Fly SHT36 v1.3 and a Fly UtoC-10 - it's time to reenter the world of pain called Canbus.

@mvdveer I know that you've got these on your conversion - do you still have the links to the STLs for the SHT36 mount, etc.?

 

[mvdveer]

17 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

@mvdveer I know that you've got these on your conversion - do you still have the links to the STLs for the SHT36 mount, etc.?

Think I used the attached stl file (EBB36 mount for VZBOT Printhead v2.stl ) for the Fly mount and this for the UTOC. The cover I modified to fit my setup. I include the modified version (VZBot SHT_EB_36 Cover_Logo and Motor Cutout.step) and a link to the original file. (This has the Voron Logo though)

           

Shout out if you need anything else.

And you'll find the conversion will be a breeze