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TitusADuxass

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  On 6/19/2024 at 9:03 AM, mvdveer said:

I am running Orca 2.1 beta without any glitches since it was released . What happened?

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Many things but I think they are related to the settings that I have in the slicer for print start and print end. I selected PLA as the filament, started the print and the bed target temp was set for 100c. I'll have a look in my v2.4 settings and see what the difference is. 

I'm also going to try another PLA, the extrusion was not consistent. It was almost like the filament was pulsing out of the nozzle.

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I was going to suggest looking at the slicer side for the timelapse. Like @mvdveer I have been running Orca 2.1.0 beta with no issues. In fact, I am now 100% using Orca at this point. I'm not even sure how far behind my SuperSlicer install is--and right now I don't care.

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  On 6/19/2024 at 9:10 AM, TitusADuxass said:

Many things but I think they are related to the settings that I have in the slicer for print start and print end. I selected PLA as the filament, started the print and the bed target temp was set for 100c. I'll have a look in my v2.4 settings and see what the difference is. 

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Those would be in the filament settings of the slicer. Also make sure the G-Code in the slicer matches that of the macro

e.g. hotend in both, not extruder in one and hotend in the other OR bed or bed_temperature in both, not bed in one and not bed_temperature in the other

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  On 6/19/2024 at 9:10 AM, TitusADuxass said:

PLA as the filament, started the print and the bed target temp was set for 100c. I'll have a look in my v2.4 settings and see what the difference is. 

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Those settings would be in  the filament profile in the slicer:

image.thumb.png.a8df90121558ed8547a17ebc3b897661.png

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Does this look normal/okay?

BedMesh01.thumb.jpg.878f47ba5f7e7c6146e75b2442289308.jpg

It looks to me like either Z calibration is too high or Cartographer calibration is too high.

This is probably why I can't get a decent 1st layer down, I keep trying to baby step Z down but the layer doesn't  improve and then I go too far and end up with a hotend clog (now using ABS as my test filament).

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  On 6/20/2024 at 9:49 AM, TitusADuxass said:

I have touched the build plate. What the hell is going on?

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Is there any metal in the exclusion zone of the probe?

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Does your build plate use embeded magnets like a Prusa or the Mandala Roseworks bed?

Some of the large magnetic sheets have an alternating North/South pattern that might give 'interesting' mesh results.

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  On 6/20/2024 at 12:33 PM, atrushing said:

Is there any metal in the exclusion zone of the probe?

2024-06-20-142809_923x755_scrot.thumb.png.877bfdcf7bdea284a0891bb96db986f5.png

Does your build plate use embeded magnets like a Prusa or the Mandala Roseworks bed?

Some of the large magnetic sheets have an alternating North/South pattern that might give 'interesting' mesh results.

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There's no metal in that area.

The build plate has no magnets.

What's interesting is - I moved a stack of magnets across the build plate magnet (without the PEI sheet). In the Y direction they slide smoothly across. In the X direction you can feel the magnet stick pulsing as it crosses the poles.

I'll make a video - BRB

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  On 6/20/2024 at 2:59 PM, Penatr8tor said:
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Thank you very much, I shall put these to good use.

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  On 6/21/2024 at 6:46 AM, TitusADuxass said:

I appear to have fixed the problem by using @Penatr8tor's ABS Orca profile and start_stop.cfg. Once again thanks for the assistance.

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Yeah, I played around a lot to get that start_stop.cfg going with a prime blob. It could still use some work but it functions.

Glad it helped. 🙂👍

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  On 6/22/2024 at 9:15 AM, TitusADuxass said:

They'll work but need to find a more rigid hinge for the lid.

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Cool, you added some gas struts. Nice!

I'm guessing that the hinges want to lift out because the design relies on gravity to keep the lid down. A simple screw thru the bottom hinge mount and into the hinge blade should do the trick (blue arrow).

Also, If you printed the top hinge part such that the purple arrow is perpendicular to Z... it will break. It need to be printed on the side, so that the hinge pin hole is align with Z. Sucks that you need support but it increases the strength by like 4X.

Titus-Hinge.jpg.eddbc942cef9b0326ab99b972fd51727.jpg

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I tried the screw through the hinge, there's still too much play.

I'm going use Orca to combine both parts and then print it as a one piece item (I'll take your advice about the print orientation).

The top hat pieces need blind jointing (a la voron), without there's a lot of stress on the perspex/acetate sheets.

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Well after chasing my tail for a number of days, I'm going to ditch the Cartographer.

It will not give me a reliable first layer. I can print one of my first layer patch tests perfectly.

Then when I try it with 5 patches (4 corners & centre) it is either way too high or way too low - too low meaning that I need a new now and the PEI sheet has some furrows in it that the nozzle plough for me.

So I now have to work out how to remove Cartographer from the printer.cfg without getting an error message.

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