why is the community as a whole so againt the elmer's glue or another method ?

[SuperBoppy]

On 5/1/2024 at 11:44 AM, BryantW said:

So I stayed with the glue stick with PETG as I lost one plate not using anything.  Do you find the hair spray gives you good release with PETG?  If so, I'd switch to that as hair spray is so much easier to apply.

I used hairspray on glass and print PETG easily with easy release and no glass shards. In fact, hairspray works with ABS, PLA and TPU as well, is easy to apply, and a lot less messy than other methods. After getting the glass squeaky clean, apply an even coat of hairspray and let it dry. You can apply a light coat before each print job., if needed. It will last for several prints before needing to clean the glass again and reapply. It washes off the glass easily with soap and water.

[therm_virtual0y]

13 hours ago, SuperBoppy said:

I used hairspray on glass and print PETG easily with easy release and no glass shards. In fact, hairspray works with ABS, PLA and TPU as well, is easy to apply, and a lot less messy than other methods. After getting the glass squeaky clean, apply an even coat of hairspray and let it dry. You can apply a light coat before each print job., if needed. It will last for several prints before needing to clean the glass again and reapply. It washes off the glass easily with soap and water.

This is all I use too.  I use it on all my plates.  Even the PEI flex plate that doesn’t stick the same as when I bought it. I have to say that I have not tried nylon yet though so not sure if something else would be better. 

 

Edited May 5 by therm_virtual0y

[SuperBoppy]

On 5/5/2024 at 2:59 AM, therm_virtual0y said:

This is all I use too.  I use it on all my plates.  Even the PEI flex plate that doesn’t stick the same as when I bought it. I have to say that I have not tried nylon yet though so not sure if something else would be better. 

I couldn't get the plastic to stick to the PEI plate on my Voron until I scrubbed it with soapy water and a Scotchbrite pad. The pad roughened up the surface, putting small scratches in it and dulling it. It is important that once it is clean, you do not touch it - the oils from your hand will contaminate the surface enough to prevent the plastic from sticking. Between prints, I just spray some IPA and wipe off, again, not touching the surface. This has worked for PLA, ABS, and PETG - all have stuck just fine and release when the plate has cooled.

[claudermilk]

With some plates you need to get even more aggressive than a scrubby. I have a couple that I just couldn't get anything to stick to no matter what. Until I lightly scrubbed it with 600 grit sandpaper. That was a little nerve-wracking going at brand new plates like that, but they have worked great since then. After that a wipe down with IPA or occasional dish soap and scrubby bath does the trick.

[PorcoMaster]

Update on my situation, I just  throw in the towel.

 

After trying so many combinations of PVA + water, I decided for a more agressive combination of 50/50 of pva, and then my glass bed exploded while I was trying to take out the print 0.o, I am sure there is a nice and perfect combination of a stuck + release agent.

 

I never tried the hair spray thou,

 

The best combination for me was defitenily the Elmer glue, that thing is just amazing, and I put more glue and IPA time to time.

However now without a bed, I just decided for a wham bam bed, just got my hands on one, will do everything by the book and wait for 72 to the glue of the bed to cure, and then I will relate back.

 

I am not changing sides, if I ever have a cheaper printer again, I will go for the glue option first hahahaha. I hope I will like the wham bam system as much as everyone comments on.

Edited May 9 by PorcoMaster

[Penatr8tor]

I don't know about other people but...

I consider build plates to be more of a consumable item. I must have at least 10 or so build plates. A few of them have lived a good life and are now just garbage. I've ground lines into them with the nozzle and have filament stuck to them in certain places, I have ones that refuse to stick and so on.

Not that any of my old plate issues has anything to do with bed adhesion other than... Sometimes ya just gotta buy a new build plate from time to time.

With that said, I just bought a couple with the PEO hologram coatings just for fun PLA prints.

[BryantW]

So with the large 340 X 340 bed, I reuse my build plates as much as possible as they are so damn expensive.  I do print many items where the quality of the part in contact with the plate isn't that important, so a little blemish isn't an issue. As I mentioned previously, I like the hair spray to keep PLA sticking and PETG from not sticking too well.  I don't have any hologram build plates for the large bed printer, but have bought several for my small QUIDI and Bambu.  When using these, I go bare as I expect any glue or spray will defeat the surface.  I also find the smaller beds are easier to tune in, so that helps.  Just my opinion which is worth what you paid for it (no snark intended)

[claudermilk]

22 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

With that said, I just bought a couple with the PEO hologram coatings just for fun PLA prints.

Those are fun and it actually works. I printed up some paint bottle holders and made sure the side plates have the pattern on them just for fun. Also printed up some miniatures game rulers as a prize for a tournament last month & the back side has the hologram pattern rather than the textured on the ones I was asked to print & bring to sell.

I've actually just swapped to a new textured plate--the old one was getting worn & I had poked a hole in the finish near the middle. They just wear out after a while.

[Penatr8tor]

@claudermilk I'm really looking forward to playing around with the Hologram plates. I have done a few prints with a CF twill plate and got really nice results.

I hear ya on the wear. It looks like PEI is going to be the most wear resistant while the other materials will be less.

[SuperBoppy]

I use a 1/16” sheet of garolite on my TEVO. Being solid, it probably will last close to forever.  I have another sheet for my Voron, but haven’t had a chance to use it yet.

[claudermilk]

I have a sheet of garolite for my Trident. Got a piece at a MatterHackers sidewalk sale and got a blank flex plate to stick it to. It's worked great for printing nylon on--which is what I got it for. I did use some glue stick with it to help adhesion/release.

[SuperBoppy]

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I have a sheet of garolite for my Trident. Got a piece at a MatterHackers sidewalk sale and got a blank flex plate to stick it to. It's worked great for printing nylon on--which is what I got it for. I did use some glue stick with it to help adhesion/release.

I print PLA on it with just a clean surface, but a coating wouldn’t hurt. I made the mistake of printing TPU without a coating and I almost didn’t get the part off the garolite. Next time I coated it with hairspray and that worked great. I got my garolite from Grainger. They sell 12” x 12” sheets at a reasonable price. 

[7milesup]

I bought a few pieces of Garolite from Zoro. If you have one of their 10% coupons put the product in your cart and wait a while. A lot of times will give you 20% off and shipping I think is free over $49.

[claudermilk]

18 hours ago, SuperBoppy said:

I print PLA on it with just a clean surface, but a coating wouldn’t hurt. I made the mistake of printing TPU without a coating and I almost didn’t get the part off the garolite. Next time I coated it with hairspray and that worked great. I got my garolite from Grainger. They sell 12” x 12” sheets at a reasonable price. 

LOL I did that with a PEI sheet. That one became trash after the part ripped a huge hole in the sticker. Lesson learned.