v2 Voron 2.4 350x350 Build

[ahough]

I just finished my build a few weeks ago, and was keeping a log that I was showing to a few of my friends. I'm going to move that over to this forum, and add to it as I make more modifications to my printer in the future.

I decided against going with a kit because I knew I'd want to change parts right out of the gate, so I started a sourcing spreadsheet to keep track of pricing and who I was ordering from:
Voron Parts Tracking.xlsx


My parts started to arrive, so I started making piles:




My printed parts were the last to arrive. When they did I started building:

I started to feel a little intimidated at this point. All of the components were installed, but I didn't fully grasp how the electronics worked, and the documentation kind of died off in the build manual. I stared at this for a few days while I did some research on the controller board and raspberry pi:




Once I had a better understanding of how things were supposed to come together, I simplified the electronics and removed the 5v power supply. I decided to go with the UART connection to the spider, to make the wiring look a little cleaner:




I quickly realized my Dragon SF didn't come with a thermistor or heater cartridge. So, while I waited on that to arrive, I installed Fluidd as my web interface and started to become more familiar with the software components:




Once I had my software setup and ready to installed my panels:




Installed my thermistor and heater cartridge as soon as they arrived and ran my first test using PLA to print a Voron cube:



I was so stoked at the quality that this had right out of the gate.

I'll add my adventures with upgrades over all of the stock setup in an upcoming post.

Edited February 17, 2022 by ahough

[Demosth]

Great post and solid looking build! I like the smoked panels neat variant!

[Pappy3831]

Awesome!!!   I can only hope my turns out half as good. Haven’t unboxed and inventoried the parts yet or finished printing my parts. Hope mine turns out as good as yours. 

[ahough]

57 minutes ago, Pappy3831 said:

Awesome!!!   I can only hope my turns out half as good. Haven’t unboxed and inventoried the parts yet or finished printing my parts. Hope mine turns out as good as yours. 

I'm sure it will look great. The Voron team did a great job with the design of these machines. Just take your time with the setup, and you'll have a great machine to play with!

[Pappy3831]

Does that folding table hold the printer okay?  I bought a smaller square one. Not sure if I want to do the build on that or put my Ender on it and do the build on my rolling toolbox.  My biggest worry is that folding table collapsing. 

[ahough]

8 minutes ago, Pappy3831 said:

Does that folding table hold the printer okay?  I bought a smaller square one. Not sure if I want to do the build on that or put my Ender on it and do the build on my rolling toolbox.  My biggest worry is that folding table collapsing. 

I did the whole build on that table except for the squaring of the frame. When I started printing with the printer on it, I had to move it to a more solid table because the whole table was shaking pretty bad when the printer was running.

[Pappy3831]

Thanks for the info. Even my rolling toolbox shakes a little with the Ender running on it. 

[claudermilk]

I built my Trident mostly on a folding table. No problems there--and it had a Prusa Mini on a concrete paver at the end still printing parts for much of the time.

[ahough]

I wasn't sure if the shaking would cause issues in the print results. That's good to know it doesn't. That may give me more options if I decide to build another printer.

Edited February 21, 2022 by ahough

[Pappy3831]

The folding table I have my Ender on shakes pretty good when it hits 80mm speed. But it hasn’t effected any of my prints. Level bed and adhesion have been my bigger problems.  Vision miners nano polymer adhesive has worked miracles for me and I have some wolf bite abs adehisive coming. Glass bed with nothing else. I’ve tried everything and the adhesive is the only thing that works consistently for me. 

[Simon2.4]

On 2/17/2022 at 3:34 PM, ahough said:

removed the 5v power supply. I decided to go with the UART connection to the spider

From Spider Specs:
"UART1-Raspberry Pi pin header (including 5V@8A power supply)"    WTF ?!?  now that's something! The Octopus has nothing of the sort.. does it?

[ahough]

7 minutes ago, Simon2.4 said:

The Octopus has nothing of the sort.. does it?

It may be possible. I see a UART2 pin out on the documentation. If it outputs enough power you can probably do it. Take a look at this image on the top right:

 

As a side note, I've updated my rig a bit since this. My board has a bunch of extra fans, lights, a camera, and a chamber heater on it now. I was getting a little worried I may be pulling too much power through the spider board, so I ended up hooking the 5v PSU up again to make sure I wasn't starving anything of power.

[claudermilk]

On 2/25/2022 at 5:36 PM, Simon2.4 said:

From Spider Specs:
"UART1-Raspberry Pi pin header (including 5V@8A power supply)"    WTF ?!?  now that's something! The Octopus has nothing of the sort.. does it?

It does. Octopus has a dedicated connector for RPi UART connection--it's the UART2 port in the wiring image ahough linked. That's how my printer is set up. Like here:

 

[Simon2.4]

27 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Octopus has a dedicated connector for RPi UART connection

That I knew. I couldn't find info on the 5V regulator behind it. That's the part that impressed me about the spider, the 8amp regulator on board.

[claudermilk]

I believe the Octopus is the same. So far I've had no sign of undervoltage on mine: Octopus V1.1, Pi 4B 2GB, and just stole the Logitech C270 webcam to stick on it temporarily. Steve Builds has his orange Trident set up with the same connections (less the webcam) and has not mentioned any issues. I am hooked up using 22AWG wiring and a single 5V line. Oh, I'm also running the SB NeoPixels on that port at 5V.

[ahough]

I have really been enjoying this printer a lot since my initial build, and I've added a few mods since I last updated my build diary:

- Nozzle scrubber

- Chamber heater

- Light bar

- Web cam

- Wire caps, to hide wiring

- Ventilation system

- Screw-on full swing hinges

- Screw on fan skirt

- Bearing driven spool holder

[ahough]

One thing I keep running into is the inductive probe burning out, so I'm currently in the process of upgrading to the Stealthburner, Clockwork 2, and the TAP. I'm still waiting on the electronics for the TAP to arrive, but I just finished building the Stealthburner and Clockwork 2.

I'm really happy with how things are turning out so far. Next up is adding a couple more wires to my harness, and rewiring a couple of the pins.

[Razor1666]

How long are your inductive probes lasting? @ahough

I just installed one in my Switchwire, (because I've never used one), but have Tap in the wings when it fails.... 

[ahough]

49 minutes ago, Razor1666 said:

How long are your inductive probes lasting?

It's been different between probes, I've gotten between 30-200 hours of printing out of each probe (feels super short). I've had a few start melting, and one just stop working with no visual damage.

It is probably worth noting I'm usually printing ASA, and have my hotend cranked up to around 250-260C. I have a feeling they'd last longer if I was printing at lower temperatures. Also, the ones that seemed to last longer when I was doing a lot of short prints. The shorter lasting ones seemed to be when I was doing more time consuming prints.

[Razor1666]

Got ya.... I usually print in ABS or Petg 230-260 so I'll keep my fingers crossed for the 200 hr range... cheers

[Simon2.4]

There are other inductive probes that can replace the cheap chinese ones. Last year, I got this one from Digikey: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/panasonic-industrial-automation-sales/GX-H15BI/3896896

It's literature boasts it great temperature stability and I can attest to it's accuracy and durability. I've printed 100's of hours at temperatures like @ahough and it's worked flawlessly. There is one issue with this part: When I bought it last year, it was the last one in stock at digikey and never came back in stock since. It may have to do with supply line shortages from you know what... hopefully Panasonic will start making these again soon. In the meanwhile, I'm sure there are other good probes out there.

[ahough]

I was so pumped. My screws, sensor, and magnets arrived and I was ready to install everything. I realized I'm out of the mini JST connectors, and my new MGN12 rail doesn't fit my existing XY joints. Womp womp. I have to put my printer back together to print the joints and wait for the rest of my wiring components to arrive. Dang!

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, ahough said:

rest of my wiring components to arrive. Dang!

Hopefully not too long to wait. Time is ticking Tick....Tock.....TAP....TAP....TAP... Tick... Tock....TAP... TAP...

[ahough]

I have my CW2 and Stealthburner installed. Homing and bed leveling with the inductive probe are back. Now I just have to setup the new nema 14 motor for feeding the filament and I'll be back to it.

I'm planning to print the XY blocks first, and then I'll wait for this last inductive probe to melt before I install the TAP.

I'm pretty happy with the looks of it, and it feels much easier to work with than the old afterburner.

This thing looks mean with the neopixles fired up.

[smirk]

15 hours ago, ahough said:

I'll wait for this last inductive probe to melt before I install the TAP

Whats the bet it doesn't melt as quick as you'd like.