Endstops Not Stopping

[PFDennis]

A little background first. I received a Hall Effect sensor with the Formbot kit for the XY endstop. I connected it, calibrated it on the X axis, but they Y axis would not come out of the triggered state no matter how I played with the potentiometer. I scrapped it, and soldered up the 2 microswitch version and installed that. I tested it in Klipper with QUERY_ENDSTOPS on every axis. They were all open, and one by one, I triggered each one, and they each showed triggered appropriately. I've been trying to set up the Voron 2.4 by doing the X and Y homing, but the endstops will not work. Triggering them doesn't stop the steppers. They show working, but they don't. Anyone with an idea of why this is happening, I'd very much appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks

[Simon2.4]

Just now, Wanderer22 said:

Thank you, I'll change the wiring back. Hope it works as it didn't work 1st time round.

how did it not work 1st time?
-is the power led lit on the board
-are you sure the cable is good and well labeled
 

[PFDennis]

Sorry, wasn't around yesterday.  To your question, I ended up abandoning that hall effect sensor because it only worked on Y. It wouldn't calibrate on the X axis with the magnet. It was just a defective part. I printed the original "pod" and put in my own microswitches and wired it like a normal switch. I ordered a new hall effect sensor to have on hand if I ever want to swap it out, but the switches are working as they should right now.

[Wanderer22]

Board power led is lit

When I wire 1st time, same as ur advice. XY endstop sensor led are lit when open, it turns off when triggered, this should be the other around. Only Y sensor works.

Now X + Y movement/directions are correct but X + Y endstop led are still lit in Open and now I can't triggered both using both sides of magnet. I just read PFDennis reply I should buy microswitches. I unplug the connector hoping it resets hall effect circuitry, I wonder if there is way to reset the hall effect

[Wanderer22]

It seems I have the same problem as PFDennis, X doesn't triggered

[Simon2.4]

5 hours ago, PFDennis said:

Sorry, wasn't around yesterday.  To your question, I ended up abandoning that hall effect sensor because it only worked on Y. It wouldn't calibrate on the X axis with the magnet. It was just a defective part. I printed the original "pod" and put in my own microswitches and wired it like a normal switch. I ordered a new hall effect sensor to have on hand if I ever want to swap it out, but the switches are working as they should right now.

 

4 hours ago, Wanderer22 said:

It seems I have the same problem as PFDennis, X doesn't triggered

I noticed on my board that the sensor chips have an UP and DOWN and I dont mean flipping the magnet. My board only worked if the magnets were aligned towards the underside of the PCB instead of above it. Play around with magnets see what makes your tick. If you are unable to trigger the sensor after that you may have a bad board.

[Wanderer22]

I played around with it without success, now Y doesn't trigger anymore, I think I broke this hall effect for good. I just bought hall effect + microswitch endstops.

If I use microswitch endstop, which seems to have same terminal markings, does wiring at Octopus connector remain the same?

[Simon2.4]

5 minutes ago, Wanderer22 said:

I played around with it without success, now Y doesn't trigger anymore, I think I broke this hall effect for good. I just bought hall effect + microswitch endstops.

If I use microswitch endstop, which seems to have same terminal markings, does wiring at Octopus connector remain the same?

almost you will not have any positive to plug with switches but it may come configured with a common pin, that will be the -  pin

[PFDennis]

I had the switches hanging around. I used the provided wire and just wired them separately. Two leads in one 3 pin JST and two in another. Sometimes the simple things work great.

[Wanderer22]

I like simple + functional. Thank you

[Wanderer22]

It's alive

I wire microswitches for xy. Panels are not yet installed. I printed pla test item. Apart from rotational distance adjustment, no tunings weee done, all good so far, no collisions yet.

I have 2 queries (for now), I have 2 controller forward fans connector to btt octopus, pretty sure wiring + pin are correct:

1. Why only fan1 is working? Configuration issue? Fan2 is a copy of fan1 with different enable pin.

2. There are slicer profiles (rar, .exe) from vorondesign github, how do I import them into cura or superslicer?

Thank you

[PFDennis]

I made a Y connector for the controller fans and connected both to a single pin. When I copied the config for the Octopus, it only had a single pin setup for the controller fan, so I assumed that's how it was supposed to be. I could be wrong. As far as the profiles go, I only saw 2 folders on the Voron github. One was for Prusa slicer, and the other was for Cura. In Cura, you go into Settings>Printer>Manage Printers. On the left, there's a Profile selection. Then you hit the Import tab. Choose the profile from the folder that you downloaded them to. That should do it. I've never used Prusa Slicer, so I'm of no help there.

[PFDennis]

I have to admit, I'm also a bit stumped by this. After going to the Voron github and downloading the profile myself, I couldn't find any profile to import, and it's a bit odd that you have to extract an .rar file. I had to download an app to do it, and I'm not even sure where to profiles are stored. I'm working on it. lol.  As far as Cura goes, that is the way to import a profile. I just have to find it first.

 

[Simon2.4]

23 minutes ago, PFDennis said:

Y connector for the controller fans and connected both to a single pin

Definitely an easy and viable way to fix that, I had the same issue but just didn't fix it yet as 1 fan is enough for now and noisy AF already. I'm replacing them with 120mm fans next time I tilt the printer over.

[PFDennis]

I don't think it's a profile, as in a print settings profile. I think the information contained is just to "add a printer".