Jump to content
  • 0

Endstops Not Stopping


PFDennis

Question

A little background first. I received a Hall Effect sensor with the Formbot kit for the XY endstop. I connected it, calibrated it on the X axis, but they Y axis would not come out of the triggered state no matter how I played with the potentiometer. I scrapped it, and soldered up the 2 microswitch version and installed that. I tested it in Klipper with QUERY_ENDSTOPS on every axis. They were all open, and one by one, I triggered each one, and they each showed triggered appropriately. I've been trying to set up the Voron 2.4 by doing the X and Y homing, but the endstops will not work. Triggering them doesn't stop the steppers. They show working, but they don't. Anyone with an idea of why this is happening, I'd very much appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recommended Posts

  • 1

OMG!!!. Thank you, thank, you. I've made more progress in the last hour than in the last 24. It's all working. All endstops ending. Now if my extruder should run backwards, that's an easy enough fix. Lol. I'm so tempted to throw filament into it and print a cube, but, I have more calibrating to do. This was the big one, though. Thanks again for the help.

AllFixed.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I don't think so, but I just got finished switching them just in case. I had thought it might be a firmware issue so I started from scratch. Now my motors are going in the wrong direction and I have to fix that. I did a G28 x and the x endstop suddenly worked. If only the carriage wasn't moving in Y. So I'll deal with that and try again. I've been trying to get this machine to home for nearly 24 hours. lol. Thanks, I'll update in a few.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
2 minutes ago, PFDennis said:

I don't think so, but I just got finished switching them just in case. I had thought it might be a firmware issue so I started from scratch. Now my motors are going in the wrong direction and I have to fix that. I did a G28 x and the x endstop suddenly worked. If only the carriage wasn't moving in Y. So I'll deal with that and try again. I've been trying to get this machine to home for nearly 24 hours. lol. Thanks, I'll update in a few.

Every step you take to fix a mistake, you learn more about the system's inner workings. You can only get better at this !  keep it up, you'll be printing in no time. I just got mine working a few days ago. It's satisfying.

Reverse direction by adding "!" in front of the "dir_pin" pin, like this:
 


##  Z1 Stepper - Rear Left
##  Connected to MOTOR_3
[stepper_z1]
step_pin: PG4
dir_pin: !PC1
enable_pin: !PA0
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 32

 

Edited by Simon2.4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I did a G28 on Y as well to see if that was wrong, and yes, the carriage moved along the x axis. Logically, I assumed I'd plugged the wrong motor wires into the wrong port on the Octopus, but no. I swapped them anyway, and the carriage just locks up like the two motors were now working against one another. Will adding the "!" in the config change it to the proper axis, or just turn it the opposite way on the wrong axis. Trying to wrap my head around it

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Ok, according to the chart, both motors are inverted. So do I now remove both "!"s from the config? I just put one on the x direction so it'd ride along the x axis. Now they're just both travelling in the opposite direction. I'll try it, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
20 minutes ago, PFDennis said:

Now I have another issue. It states that if the gantry moves down before the carriage moves, to reverse the Z stepper directions (plural). Does that mean all of them?

yup, I had to change 2 of my "z" motor dir_pin by adding the "!" modifier.. I think, not sure anymore

Edited by Simon2.4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I've just lined up the nozzle with the Z endstop, following directions. The bed is square, and the pin is 3mm away from the bed plate. That's all locked down at the furthest point on the Y max. I brought the carriage to the front corner as far as it will go to the left on both axis and the nozzle sits 20mm back from the front of the plate, and 7mm in from the left edge. Made all the proper adjustments. I went to home the z axis and it went straight up perfectly. Does that mean all Z's have to be inverted?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

before you hit this particular wall: the Chinese probe that comes with the kits is only good before it heats up and the quad gantry leveling is a very delicate procedure; so in your start routine, make sure the hotend heats up only after quad gantry level is complete

add this to the start g-code box of you machine settings in your slicer:

M140 S{material_bed_temperature} 	  ;set bed temperature and dont wait
print_start                      	  ;run printer's start_print macro (QGL and home)
M109 S{material_print_temperature}    ;set hotend temprature abd WAIT for it to be ready
g28                                   ;last homing since last one was on a cold nozzle with crusty plastic, ewww

also, in my config file I had to loosen the probing tolerance as such:
 

#--------------------------------------------------------------------

x_offset: 0
y_offset: 25.0
z_offset: 0
speed: 10.0
samples: 3
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 3.0
samples_tolerance: 0.015
samples_tolerance_retries: 5

#####################################################################

 

Edited by Simon2.4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

pay close attention when setting up your z endstop its the most likely step to cause a collision. Use youe E-stop button on your display to freeze everything quick. I always keep a piece of cardboard under the tip till I'm really sure its all good. prevent damage on your nice print bed

Edited by Simon2.4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Hi, I bought the same Formbot kit + can't get XY endstops to work. XY endstop wiring comes split out as blue:V+, black:GND, red: X sig on Octopus connector and just yellow: Y sig another Octopus connector. According to Voron literature hall effect need V+ and GND to work.

Did you modify XY endstop wiring for it to work? Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
36 minutes ago, Wanderer22 said:

Hi, I bought the same Formbot kit + can't get XY endstops to work. XY endstop wiring comes split out as blue:V+, black:GND, red: X sig on Octopus connector and just yellow: Y sig another Octopus connector. According to Voron literature hall effect need V+ and GND to work.

Did you modify XY endstop wiring for it to work? Thank you

 

v2_octopus_wiring.thumb.png.09b7f39482ed2a0c05842c47f09e236c.png

you can tap + and - on either port

pinout.thumb.png.c84dfb0ba591d4fbc6a56186cea52704.png

*****I highlited the wrong ports: it's J27 and J29 but you get the idea 😅

Welcome aboard BTW!  if you wish to share your build progress and centralize your questions, you are welcome to use the build diary section.

Edited by Simon2.4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...