Looking to improve cooling on a Stealthburner

[BlueBleo]

I have a v2.4 with a stealthburner, and I think the biggest problem the printer has is the cooling, which seriously limits my print speed. I've been interested in improving the cooling, and wondered if anyone had any suggestions.

My stealthburner uses a regular LGX, mosquito magnum hotend, and the Voron TAP, in case those affect anything.

[Penatr8tor]

What led you to believe that it's part cooling? I assume you've done some testing and some background could be helpful.

If you're just looking for ideas... adapting a VZBot style CPAP fan with hose is going to net you the most air pressure and volume and lightens the toolhead as well.

 

[BlueBleo]

I'm seeing a lot of pillowing in PLA and my overhangs don't look the best with ABS. It might not be cooling, but usually chamfers on the underside of parts are super rough.

On 8/7/2023 at 3:27 PM, Penatr8tor said:

What led you to believe that it's part cooling? I assume you've done some testing and some background could be helpful.

If you're just looking for ideas... adapting a VZBot style CPAP fan with hose is going to net you the most air pressure and volume and lightens the toolhead as well.

 

[Penatr8tor]

@BlueBleo With overhangs you've got a lot of factors that can contribute. Yes, cooling is definitely one but also nozzle temp and print speed can contribute as well. Of course, without any info on what slicer you're using, what speeds, temps, etc... or photos of parts, it's close to impossible to offer any solution for you to try.

[Marsbio.tek]

I use this. I don't have a great way with controlling cpap fan speeds yet though so might try the fan option

https://github.com/sneakytreesnake/CrownCooler

[BlueBleo]

On 8/9/2023 at 7:31 PM, Penatr8tor said:

@BlueBleo With overhangs you've got a lot of factors that can contribute. Yes, cooling is definitely one but also nozzle temp and print speed can contribute as well. Of course, without any info on what slicer you're using, what speeds, temps, etc... or photos of parts, it's close to impossible to offer any solution for you to try.

Sorry, haven't been ignoring you, just got busy with life. I use prusaslicer.

Speeds - Perimeters 80-120, Infill 120, Solid infill 70, first layer 30.

Abs - Hotend 245,  Bed 110

This part is done in PLA and is an old part, but it has the same problems as I do now. Especially around where the chambfer meets the straight wall.

[BlueBleo]

On 8/11/2023 at 8:58 PM, Marsbio.tek said:

I use this. I don't have a great way with controlling cpap fan speeds yet though so might try the fan option

https://github.com/sneakytreesnake/CrownCooler

That seems to be the main problem, no one seems to have a clear method to power and control a cpap fan with a BTT Octopus. I know Vez3D has cpap on his printer, but I don't think he's ever shown how he wired it or how he controls it with klipper. I think if you can just use a big 24V fan with 2 pins, you can just control it with the Octopus like a normal fan.

[YaaJ]

The fan output is not "powerfull" enough to drive such a blower. Use a power opto MOSFET module ! Replace the fan with the opto input (beware the polarity), and the power MOSFET will PWM the blower at the same frequency/duty cycle. If the blower is powered by mains, it's another story !

[Kaye7877]

I had the same problem with the Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum.  The shape of the heater block inhibits the airflow behind the nozzle.  If you notice the rear outlets of the Stealthburner cooling passages are partially or mostly blocked by the Mosquito heat block, especially if you are using a sock.  The parts you are printing probably have more defects on the rear than they do on the front. 

I am a fan of the Slice Engineering Mosquito, but it simply gets in the way of airflow. I tried redesigning the Stealthburner parts to lower the air passages some, it improved the problem, but didn't solve it.  Ultimately,  I solved the problem by moving to a Revo.

 

Brad