Hello from Finland

[SamppaD]

Im building my second printer now and i decided on Voron 2 r2. Self sourced parts to get the best hardware quality. Still waiting for parts as global shipping is broken. Most of the parts needed is actually out of stock...just my luck  

[Buurman]

Welcome!! yeah and there are a LOT of parts, but, there are some good shops in Germany, but ok, you need stuff from everywhere...

Curious to what you have decided on, feel free to post a diary in the forum on the build, always a good lesson for others, there is always something new!

Are you going TAP? and then.. normal TAP or CNC TAP?

[Penatr8tor]

Finland, Finland, Finland.... Finland has it all.  One of my favorite Monty Python songs. 

Welcome! I look forward to seeing your printer build progress. 

What size 2.4 are you building? As for the best quality... What are you doing for an extruder? A number of members (myself included) have gone to LGX Lite and/or Orbiter for better quality. Not say the Voron CW1 and CW2 are bad extruders. Also I would second @Buurman by recommending installing a Voron TAP over any inductive or klicky type probe.

[PFarm]

Welcome to the forum!

[mvdveer]

Welcome to the forum - hope those parts arrive soon!

[SamppaD]

 

Hi to everyone. About parts,most of the parts are shipping from Germany 3d shops, and one of the shops has a stock issue https://caribou3d.com. Now month has passed and still waiting. To make things worst this order contains LDO frame,motors and some other hardware so my build at starting point. I will get the parts at some point of time.

I got the electronics parts,still waiting for a PTFE cables to start building harness 

About the build , building it a as a LDO bom stock and upgrading as I get hold of the parts

Frame is a space gray

300x300 

LDO motors

Octopus pro

Raspberry pi 4gb

PSU meanwell lrs-350-24 active cooling , meanwell RS-25-5

Afterburner but upgrading to sealth burner to improve parts and hotend cooling after build is complete and tested.

Hotend options are limited for Voron...still thinking..

Tap is a must.

Klipper

So if you have any advice on hotend or the build in general just post

 

 

[Buurman]

6 hours ago, SamppaD said:

any advice on hotend or the build in general just post

I can only mention what I have experienced, so...

Currently reasonably a fan of Revo, but think my future builds will be Rapido hotend, I did most of my builds with Dragon HF, also good experience, but I dont like the long heating/cooldown. Thats why im looking at the Rapido, same brand, but easier wiring with the build in heater, and super fast heating.

And I like it fits a normal v6 nozzle, no hassle, no overpriced nozzles. (more than they already are)

With TAP the heating speed becomes not a priority, but its nice if it does, since you cant probe with a hot hotend.

So im currently looking at Rapido Plus HF. I think its a good middle ground and able to print carbon filaments.

No experience with printing yet....

 

[SamppaD]

Hi. Dragon HF was one of the options for the build as i have V6 nozzles in stock   I would like to be able to use V6 nozzles for the new hotend, this way i dont have to source some exotic nozzles.I will check this Rapido Plus HF. 

By the way Voron BOM states use of 12.9,10.9 black bolts for assembly of the aluminium extrusions . These bolts are rated for much higher torque then what is needed for the aluminium and have a tendency to rust. On the other hand stainless steel bolts will react with aluminium if not coated. Is there a better option available,can i use aluminium or galvanized bolts for the frame? 

[Penatr8tor]

46 minutes ago, SamppaD said:

Hi. Dragon HF was one of the options for the build as i have V6 nozzles in stock   I would like to be able to use V6 nozzles for the new hotend, this way i dont have to source some exotic nozzles.I will check this Rapido Plus HF. 

Definitely go with the Rapido, you won't be dissatisfied. It also works with all V6 style nozzles. I have tried the stock Pheatus nozzles, Diamondback and CHT. So far they have all worked great.

[Buurman]

2 hours ago, SamppaD said:

By the way Voron BOM states use of 12.9,10.9 black bolts for assembly of the aluminium extrusions . These bolts are rated for much higher torque then what is needed for the aluminium and have a tendency to rust. On the other hand stainless steel bolts will react with aluminium if not coated. Is there a better option available,can i use aluminium or galvanized bolts for the frame? 

I always use stainless and never did anything even after a year of 24/7 printing... 

I stay away from the black ones, but I sometimes use aluminium or titanium in rare cases. Stainless is fine...rest is overkill.

[SamppaD]

Okei. 

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, Buurman said:

I always use stainless and never did anything even after a year of 24/7 printing... 

I stay away from the black ones, but I sometimes use aluminium or titanium in rare cases. Stainless is fine...rest is overkill.

Absolutely correct. @SamppaD I posted what happens to the black anodised ones in a thread some time ago. Have since only been using stainless. You won't regret it.

 

[SamppaD]

Nasty corrosion on the bolts and only after 1 year of use. At my location humidity inside of the apartment  is mostly about 25% most of the year however  in the summer it will spike up to 60%. One year without  maintenance is a long time, Im doing maintenance on my first build every 2-3 month,depending on use. Mostly cleaning,lubricating lead screws and  linear rails,inspecting all bolts and updating software as needed. 

[claudermilk]

Welcome to the forum!

I built my Trident over a year ago using almost exclusively stainless bolts. They all still look new, no issues at all. I have a few black oxide steel bolts where the magnetic properties are needed, but that's it.

I went straight to Stealthburner & Clockwork2 on my built and have not regretted it. I don't see a reason to do a new build with Afterburner, so I say skip that step & go with SB right away.

For the hotend I went with Revo and am perfectly happy with it. I did look at Revo vs V2 nozzle cost. When you factor in the heatbreak piece the V6 needs the cost for standard brass nozzle is about equivalent. There is now the Obxidian nozzle hitting vendors for abrasives and rumors of high flow versions imminent. But, since you have V6 nozzles already, that's a perfectly valid rout to choose.

One of the nice aspects of the Stealthburner (and I think Afterburner) is swapping the hotend module is dead simple.

[SamppaD]

Hi. I will go with stainless steel bolts and nuts then  

By the way does Revo fits  in to Dragon hotend X carriage mount or do i  need to print some adapter plate to get it to fit? 

Also im going for a CNC tap on this build so any experience,known issues....with the https://chaoticlab.xyz/products/cnc-voron-tap

[Penatr8tor]

@SamppaD SS Screws and nuts work well and if you're not building an ocean going boat then you don't need to worry about intergranular or galvanic corrosion as a result of dissimilar metals being in contact with one another. 

As for the hotend... You will need to print the correct hotend mount for whatever hotend you choose. The STL and CAD models for all supported StealthBurner Hotends can be found on the Voron SB Github page... Click me for hotend mounts

A couple members have already installed the CNC TAP from ChaoticLabs... You can learn more by following this thread here... Click for CNC TAP

[SamppaD]

Thanks for links. Just got my Octopus pro 1.01 revision F429 and after inspecting the board noticed a bend connectors on drivers ports. Has anyone come across this issue? For the price of the board i would expect no issues with connector or pins. As i cant test the board it hard to say if this board actually works. Started RMA with Biqu official seller,waiting for him to reply. What do you think,connectors are flexing,so try to insert drivers and hope for the best or.. 

Edited May 18, 2023 by SamppaD

[claudermilk]

It doesn't look like too much. I'd try gently flexing them back into position and plug in the drivers. I'll bet they will plug in just fine with a bit of gentle convincing.

[Penatr8tor]

On 5/18/2023 at 9:26 AM, claudermilk said:

It doesn't look like too much. I'd try gently flexing them back into position and plug in the drivers. I'll bet they will plug in just fine with a bit of gentle convincing.

Agree, some gentle coaxing will straighten them out.

[SamppaD]

Hi,did exactly that,gently pressed drivers in to place and tested the board. Found out that one of the screen connectors is unfortunately shorted. When tft screen is connected it starts to flicker,all leds that are supposed to be off,start to glow and beeps from the board. Seller already send replacement . It arrived few weeks ago and working fine.At this moment started building voron frame,i cant say that i like blind joints at all.