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CHOATICLAB Unboxing


mvdveer

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Finally arrived, though due to time constraints will have to wait to implement.

Neatly packaged and everything needed for assembly included;

IMG_4273.thumb.jpeg.776f1a8ab66f0aea11465ebaacac0f04.jpegIMG_4274.thumb.jpeg.7bc01ab44151daa60c2827a7b500b332.jpeg

IMG_4275.thumb.jpeg.d8834ed4bcde7ce1801bcaa5da59636d.jpeg IMG_4276.thumb.jpeg.2c6c40835dedc8500abfd5ba4f48c68f.jpeg

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Feels quite solid and no "wobble" detected.

Will it be better than the printed TAP? Only time will tell.

 

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I unboxed mine today also....

No wobble, but a very present feeling of the balls in the cart, but I dont feel like taking it apart and find my balls on the floor again.. very very tiny balls..

😛

So.. injecting it with grease from any possible angle, and its... messy, I cant reach the default grease channels, so its from the top, sides, etc..

Feels much better now.. and.. REALLY needed!! 

Looks pretty cool though...

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Mine on an Airplane right now on its way ..  And I got my BTT SB2209 Can bus today... now do I wait for the Tap and do it all together ?.. or do tap later...

I hope that probing Hot bed or lack thereof is nt a pain,,, and waiting to cool down to Probe whit the Tap.. in the case that it could damage the PEI sheet if the Tap hot end is to Hot..

 

 

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2 hours ago, Chuck_Snow said:

I hope that probing Hot bed or lack thereof is nt a pain,,, and waiting to cool down to Probe whit the Tap.. in the case that it could damage the PEI sheet if the Tap hot end is to Hot..

I do not find it an issue at all as the hotted heats up very quickly. As I print mainly ABS, I heat soak the chamber for 15 - 20 min. (Bed 110, Hotted 150). Then do anther home, QGL/Z-Tilt, Adaptive bed mesh and then heat the nozzle to the desired temp. The important thing for me is not to initially heat the nozzle to desired temperature as the cooldown then to 150 takes much longer.

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1 minute ago, mvdveer said:

I do not find it an issue at all as the hotted heats up very quickly. As I print mainly ABS, I heat soak the chamber for 15 - 20 min. (Bed 110, Hotted 150). Then do anther home, QGL/Z-Tilt, Adaptive bed mesh and then heat the nozzle to the desired temp. The important thing for me is not to initially heat the nozzle to desired temperature as the cooldown then to 150 takes much longer.

Same now with a TAP installed, make sure you dont unlock your motors in any of your macros, like loading/unloading filament, END, this prevents homing again (and cooldown of nozzle) since, yes, that takes the longest. The Revo is very fast though in heating up, but a Dragon is significant slower. I do want to try a rapido soon... even faster!

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1 minute ago, Buurman said:

make sure you dont unlock your motors in any of your macros

Good tip - learned something today - thanks

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Picked mine up today from the mailbox.

@Buurman... I have the same feeling in my balls.

...I have no idea where this is going LOL. 😅

There was also a 1mm thick CF ChaoticLab badge with mine as well.

CNC-TAP.jpg

Edited by Penatr8tor
Forgot something...
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Ya so many macros disable/unlock the steppers it annoying, you Don't need it just need an Idle time to turn it off just in case scenario.

and there are delayed macros to set Heat soak timers whit desired temps. it defaults for the Printer to turn things off after an hour of idle time.

I too have the Dragon HF and was also thinking of maybe getting the Rapido HF.

and Damm those plugs are small on the BTT SB2209 Can bus board ... mind you they did send me pre crimp wire 

and a temp probe.

 

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1 hour ago, Buurman said:

I do want to try a rapido soon... even faster!

I did some testing with my Rapido. Time for Hotend to reach 250c from ambient (~28c) was 20 seconds, plus another few seconds to stabilize. Time to go from 150 to 250 is on the order of 6-8 seconds, again plus stabilization time.

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8 hours ago, Chuck_Snow said:

and Damm those plugs are small on the BTT SB2209 Can bus board

Hahaha, I had the same thoughts... so much stuff on it, but yeah.. micro mode.. its a good fat finger test.. pfff

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9 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Good tip - learned something today - thanks

Maybe I have another one.. so yes the default timeout of heaters is one hour, you can up these if you need. If your nozzle drops under the min. temperature, you need to home again, so you dont want that during a pause.. since you may not be able to home with a print on your bed...

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I have reset all my warmup macros and settings to put the nozzle at 150 now. It's pretty quick for my Revo, then final heating isn't too long. A worst it's the same time as the toolhead moving to attach and dock the Klicky and do auto-z, usually its quicker. I have found that 170 is a bit too hot for a West 3D smooth PEI plate (I think they use Energetic stickers)--I have a bit of marking at the z-tilt points now.

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3 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I have a bit of marking at the z-tilt points now.

Ya this is what I was worried about, I might try to put my QGL out a little farther to the edge. so if it does leave marks, it won't really affect anything since there far out to the edges. but ya thx I will try set it to 150'c  maybe lower if it heats fast enough.

the other worry is as it digs in then it wont reflect the top measurement ..

Edited by Chuck_Snow
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@Chuck_Snow Dude, You're way over thinking this.

I will start by saying... I've had the OG Voron TAP on my machine for a good month or so. At least as long as @claudermilk, with no marks on my print surface from the TAP.

The reason why he had issues (sorry in advance Chris) is because he ventured outside of the recommended settings established by the Voron team. I on the other hand, LOL, did not. And as a result, I have no issues. In fact... my TAP works so well that I'm not even going to touch the brand new CNC TAP on the desk in front of me until I have an issue or get bored and need to do some mod.

With that said, If you keep your nozzle at </= 150c and your bad under ~130c... you will never have a problem. Pushing the envelope is what gets you in trouble. My thinking has always been... No need to spend one's brain power chasing down issues that have yet to develop.

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26 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

@Chuck_Snow Dude, You're way over thinking this.

I will start by saying... I've had the OG Voron TAP on my machine for a good month or so. At least as long as @claudermilk, with no marks on my print surface from the TAP.

The reason why he had issues (sorry in advance Chris) is because he ventured outside of the recommended settings established by the Voron team. I on the other hand, LOL, did not. And as a result, I have no issues. In fact... my TAP works so well that I'm not even going to touch the brand new CNC TAP on the desk in front of me until I have an issue or get bored and need to do some mod.

With that said, If you keep your nozzle at </= 150c and your bad under ~130c... you will never have a problem. Pushing the envelope is what gets you in trouble. My thinking has always been... No need to spend one's brain power chasing down issues that have yet to develop.

I think @Penatr8tor is right. I did ask about the 170 and some of the developers stated they had used that temp with no issues--even up to 180. However, after seeing the beginnings of some markings, I have since dropped back to the recommended 150. I'll be monitoring the surface to see if it gets worse. Aside from that, it's been working great for me.

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I'm just saying if we never tried to go to moon how do we know that we could ever go... learning most of the fun for me taking what some did and seeing if I can make it better

most of the things I make is nt because I can't buy them it's because I want them to cater to me the way I want it..

we learned from your mistake LOL "Sorry" but if don't try to make things better we would of never have TAP everyone would still be using induction probe or whatever was the first iteration, innovation is the future of the world, or we'd still be riding horse..

I gladly take Penat8tor advice/criticism, but if we never push the envelope, we would never get better or learn things along the way as we try. 

TAP is still in development; they are hoping to get it out to more printer there they trying to get around the 800gm push requirement to a lot of other printer s can't handle.

 

Edited by Chuck_Snow
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6 hours ago, Chuck_Snow said:

I gladly take Penat8tor advice/criticism, but if we never push the envelope, we would never get better or learn things along the way as we try. 

I'm totally on board with that. But... I'm going to give the Voron design team a little bit of credit upfront because they're pretty good at testing, refinement and establishing realistic performance limits. My thinking is... try what they recommend, if something doesn't work the way I want it to... then tweak, change etc. So far I've pretty much colored in the lines but that's not to say that I haven't designed and implemented a few quality of life improvements to all of my printers. I mean that's half the fun, Oh, And I applaud your envelope pushing. 😎👍. One must leave ones comfort zone to drag a knee.

KneeDrag.jpg.85481ea60eaec5106dac264e128e0f16.jpg

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For those of you who have installed the CNC tap, how well has it performed?

Positives?

Negatives?

Giving it serious consideration, just haven't seen much info from people using it.

Thanks

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On 5/2/2023 at 1:16 PM, Penatr8tor said:

@Chuck_Snow Dude, You're way over thinking this.

I will start by saying... I've had the OG Voron TAP on my machine for a good month or so. At least as long as @claudermilk, with no marks on my print surface from the TAP.

The reason why he had issues (sorry in advance Chris) is because he ventured outside of the recommended settings established by the Voron team. I on the other hand, LOL, did not. And as a result, I have no issues. In fact... my TAP works so well that I'm not even going to touch the brand new CNC TAP on the desk in front of me until I have an issue or get bored and need to do some mod.

With that said, If you keep your nozzle at </= 150c and your bad under ~130c... you will never have a problem. Pushing the envelope is what gets you in trouble. My thinking has always been... No need to spend one's brain power chasing down issues that have yet to develop.

Yup, I just built mine last week then saw everyone talking about the CnC version and was like, seriously!!  I don't want to rip it apart already lol.  My TAP is working great, and my first high speed prints look amazing, so I'll just leave it for now.  If something happens down the road I'll swap it if needed.

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20 hours ago, nickpeck47 said:

Yup, I just built mine last week then saw everyone talking about the CnC version and was like, seriously!!  I don't want to rip it apart already lol.  My TAP is working great, and my first high speed prints look amazing, so I'll just leave it for now.  If something happens down the road I'll swap it if needed.

Agreed! It's super cool looking and being a motorcyclist I am genetically drawn to anything CNC machined and anodized 😆 however... I learned to let logic and reason forge my path when it comes to 3d printer building. This is one of those times.

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