Smol Printer Time - Salad Fork

[Poisson]

[Poisson]

One the really nice things with the Fabreeko kit. The bottom deck panel as well as the rear panel are actually cut aluminum. Not acrylic, not ACM, actual cut aluminum.

Edited August 2, 2023 by Poisson

[Penatr8tor]

And nicely powder coated as well. 

[Poisson]

Finished AB motors and belts a couple days ago, and finished assembling boop yesterday.

Found that the rubber feet in the kit are too small. They have a M3 hole in them, but need M5. ordered some replacements but I also tried to bust out the TPU on my 2.4 yesterday to print some feet and for the life of me could not get it to print right. Going to maybe try a little but more today, but otherwise seems like a good day to maybe do the toolhead.

Need the feet before I get into the electronics too much. Without the feet the power supply sticks out the bottom of the printer! So I don't really want to put all the electronics in and then have to turn it over and have it sit on the power supply.

Edited August 5, 2023 by Poisson

[claudermilk]

Dry the heck out of the TPU, then print sloooooow (no, really,  I MEAN SLOW).

[Poisson]

Power supply and mainboard mounted: (Can you believe this is the only things that get mounted in the electronics bay? Hurray for CANbus and a CB1!)

Toolhead partially assembled:

Edited August 7, 2023 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Poisson said:

Hurray for CANbus and a CB1!)

Does make a difference. And with all the initial setup blues well documented, really easy to set up now. (Well I have done 5 so far). Looking good

[Poisson]

More progress

Still need to figure out how the endstop and TAP PCB wire to the board, and also waiting for a CAN cable to arrive to attach.

[Poisson]

For the USB camera I'm using, it has a USB cable that connects to the camera PCB using this tiny connector, which appears to be JST SH 1.0 pitch:

Well this USB cable is too wide to stuff into the extrusions to hide / run it the way I need to, so I ordered a skinny USB cable. The only problem is I'm going to have to cut off one end of the new cable and attach the connector somehow. I've never tried crimping 1.0 pitch crimps before and from what I have been reading online it is giant pain in the butt without a specialized crimper. So the question is do I either 1. Get crimp pins and connectors and try to crimp a new end on the new cable, or do I just cut this connector off with enough wire to splice it onto the new cable?

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Poisson said:

I just cut this connector off with enough wire to splice it onto the new cable?

I am with you and I trust my splicingg/soldering more than I do my crimping such tiny connectors.

[Penatr8tor]

Hahaha Yep... I would have reverted to that method. Good Call 

[Poisson]

Toolhead can board is finished being wired minus the can cable itself.

Wires to be zip tied down once the can cable is attached!

Edited August 10, 2023 by Poisson

[claudermilk]

Send it for serial!  (I'm sure Sanity would have comments on the current state there.  )

[Poisson]

 

 

I don't like the amount of jank this USB cable is turning into, hopefully it works. Had to discover the 5th wire is for GND to the sheathing. I also had to remove the insulation for a portion of the cable which means the sheathing is now in contact with the frame of the printer, hopefully doesn't cause issues.

Edited August 11, 2023 by Poisson

[Poisson]

1 hour ago, Poisson said:

 

 

I don't like the amount of jank this USB cable is turning into, hopefully it works. Had to discover the 5th wire is for GND to the sheathing. I also had to remove the insulation for a portion of the cable which means the sheathing is now in contact with the frame of the printer, hopefully doesn't cause issues.

I checked continuity between the frame and the sheathing and there is none. I guess maybe because of the anodization of the frame? Guess it won't really matter if no continuity.

[Poisson]

Plugged the camera into my laptop and it seems to work fine, so that's nice.

Most of the wires in the printer are now down to the electronics bay including the CAN cable now attached. RGB is installed and wires ran, USB cable is ran down, and I installed a chamber thermistor. Need to extend the AB motor wires down into the electronics bay still. Still waiting on my replacement bed heater to arrive which should be late next week.

Edited August 12, 2023 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Wired up the entire electronics bay minus the bed heater, and the bed fans.

Installed the screen and ran a temp USB cable (seems I ordered the wrong 90 degree FFC adapter cable for the USB on Aliexpress). Ordered the correct adapter now

Screen not displaying anything though, so I think I messed up installing the FFC cable. Will work on it later.

I also installed klipper on the sdcard and loaded it and turned on the printer. No magic smoke escaped, hurray! I am able to connect to it over the wireless. so I guess while I wait for the replacement bed heater so I can finish the bed, I'll start setting up klipper.

Edited August 15, 2023 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Screen works.

[Poisson]

Welp, I just blew my mainboard and / or CB1 trying to hit the boot / reset buttons on the mainboard (I was dumb and was using something metal and it shorted to the board. Magic smoke came out and everything. Guess I am waiting on replacements.

[Poisson]

New board is in. I upgraded from the Manta M5P to the Manta M8P. It's overkill for the steppers, but it has additional fan headers which will make my fan control plans much easier. Wired it all up and it wouldn't boot! Turns out with the USB for the screen attached it won't boot up, so it seems like I fried the screen when I fried the board. Disconnected screen and ordered a replacement, thankfully Amazon has this one in stock now and I don't have to wait on Aliexpress.

Started configuring klipper and got klipper to load without error. Went to go start testing steppers and buzzing any of the steppers causing klipper to error out. Grabbed a spare stepper driver and replaced one of them and lo and behold that stepper is able to buzz. So it appears I blew all the stepper drivers as well. This is turning into quite the costly mistake. Ordered new stepper drivers.

I did get canbus configured and working correctly which is nice. Everything on the toolhead is working properly except for boop which isn't triggering for some reason. 

Followed this Canbus guide which was excellent: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_PcCsZmZDNQKQ4PZVdHbhnT0SBKkc30miwcUaphM4kQ/edit

Edited August 17, 2023 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Add to the list of fatalities: One of the Rainbow Matchstick LED strips I bought seems to have died in the Manta M5P dying.

[claudermilk]

Wow, seems like you blew up ALL the boards. Ouch. 

[Penatr8tor]

Man that sux. Well... lesson learn right. We learn we move on. 

In the end you'll have an awesome printer...

 

 

 

...and a little more wisdom.

[Poisson]

New stepper drivers came in yesterday, replaced all of them and all my motors are working like a charm. Screen came in in today which I replaced and it is working great as well.

Replacement bed heater from Fabreeko shipped yesterday and should be here Monday. Getting towards the end of this build!

[Poisson]

 

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Back pack filter is assembled and attached to the rear panel. Can't really put the rear panel on the printer though till the bed is finished,