My Voron needs a sibling. So why not build another one.

[claudermilk]

13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Mmmmhhhh - How about never?  There is always something - but that is the fun of it all. 

I "finished" my Trident over a year ago...and just got the latest new part this week.

(Holy smokes! The printer is 15 months old?!)

[bdejong11129]

It's actually Lime. Lol.  Prints very nicely.

[Buurman]

40 minutes ago, bdejong11129 said:

It's actually Lime. Lol.  Prints very nicely.

ah, yeah I like the black Polylite also, super strong and smooth, its only not really "black" but more antracit. 

[bdejong11129]

Printing a Klicky kit. I have been using a Euclid probe on the first one and love how clean it is but everyone is sold out so figured I would just give Klicky a try on this one. 

Meanwhile... I think I nailed the wiring. What do you think?. Time to fire it up.

I actually ran short on the wires to get the A and B motors tied in so until tomorrow....

[bdejong11129]

Made some progress getting all the wires routed to the bottom.  Excuse the mess here, still pulling wires and most are loosely held down. 

Forgot how much I hate crimping those damn miniJST connectors. 

While that was happening I was printing a bunch of the snap hinges for the panels. Man, how did I not know about those. 

[claudermilk]

My printer currently doesn't look a whole lot better (two wire harnesses sitting in it right now). It will get better as you progress.

Those snap latches are awesome, I was so happy when I discovered them. Makes pulling the panels so easy.

It looks like you're printing extra pieces for the Klicky. I see both the adjustable and non-adjustable dock mounts on that plate. I used the non adjustable one since it's cleaner and put the dock right about where I needed; I had to use some spacers--insert Ivan reference here--to get it forward enough to reliably dock.

[bdejong11129]

Yeah, it's the first time using klicky so I printed the "deluxe" kit so I could test both options and have the parts on hand. 

I may even give it a go on the first one so they are the same. While I like the fit and function of the Euclid probe it's bothersome that it's unavailable so often. I considered doing a board order and just selling off the excess but hen said why...  

[bdejong11129]

So. Finished all the wiring that I have. The only item missing is the heater for the bed. Will add that once it arrives. 

Again, don't judge the wore management. Leaving it loose and fancy free until everything is verified. Then I will mount the cable trays and tidy it all up. That includes shortening the harnesses that came with the motors. 

Power was verified and applied and no magic smoke was released!  Now I am getting all the firmware files ready for some testing tomorrow. 

It's nice to see the documentation for the Octopus board! When I built the first one there was minimal information on that MCU so had to scrape it up from various sources. It's a perfect board for this printer. 

I did hook up the let's for the hot end to the RGB header. The one by the end stop connectors. Seems that this is what it's for? There are a few various ways to hook it up so could use some advice there. I did confirm that I do have the RGBW version of the Led's. 

[bdejong11129]

It's Alive!

Figured I may as well get all the firmware loaded and configured while I wait for my bed heater. Faked out the bed thermistor by using a spare hot end thermistor. 

Now big brother is printing the display mount before I break it. Lol.

[claudermilk]

The NeoPixel port (J37) right where the endstops block and just above the always on fan ports is the one I use. 

FYI, for my case lights I'm using the BL Touch (J43) port with signal on PB6; I'm using 5v NeoPixel strips.

[bdejong11129]

Ok, that is the port that I used. Will test them later tonight.  

Right now I have all the homing working and X,Y and Z are homing correctly.  Now this is where it gets odd.  After homing the machine if I set it to 0,0 it ends up close to 60mm in both x and y inboard of the front left corner of the bed.  So, it doesnt make it all the way to the front left corner but stops short in both x and y.

I am using the 0.9 LDO motors and set the full_steps_per_rotation to 400.  not sure why its not reaching the corner.  Yes, the max is set to 350. 

[bdejong11129]

Here it is at rear right, 350,350

And here it is at front left 0,0

[bdejong11129]

Well.. so I am going to be honest here. The above issue was 100% builder error. 

Don't mix these. Yup. I did that. Yup, the instructions were clear, yup. Live and learn. I will do better next time. 

 

now we are at the corner of the bed as we should be. 

[claudermilk]

I was later thinking about this and wondered if you have an incorrect pulley size. It looks like I have a "does it move 1mm when you ask it to move 1mm?" post saved in cache here that I somehow didn't send. I blame being distracted with my own printer issues.

[bdejong11129]

Oh yeah. It was all user error for sure. I thought I counted the teeth but well.... obviously not. 

What did go well today was the bed heater came in. The question now is.. RTV it or not?. My first one has been running non stop without it but seems like people recommend it highly. 

I did prepare the surface with generous cleaning with IPA until the towel came off clean. 

Need to mount the thermal protector and wire it in but debating the rtv treatment. 

 

[mvdveer]

Always err on the side of safety. The only issue I see with RTV is if you need to remove the heater pad in future - it is not fun. Had to do this once (luckily a V0), and since then skipped the process of silicone to the heater pad. I have not had  any issues with any of the beds that have not been RTV-ed. Personal preference I would think. 

If it was me, the answer is not necessary. Others will have different opinions.

[claudermilk]

Probably not necessary. But considering what this component does, an extra layer of safety is not a bad idea. I RTV'ed my bed heater. Never had one issue with it.

[bdejong11129]

So after a break due to life, work, family etc I finally got some time to finish up the work on the printer. 

I opted to go without the RTV for now. I have it on hand if I need it. My other voron has been running marathon sessions recently to help my daughter on a project and it is holding fast.

I had planned to use a Euclid probe so printed that mount. However, no one seems to have them in stock. Weeks went by and still nothing so I figured I would try klicky out. 

Went with the glue version and have it all mounted and working. I think expirence with Euclid made this easy to setup. 

I then added the auto z calibration from protoloft because, well, it works and I have setting z offsets and babystepping. 

I then added the fans and most all the skirts. Somehow I missed printing all the right hand pieces so... well.. that's what the first Voron is for. Lol

Ran off a quick cube before tuning it all in. Behold... the awesomeness that is a true first print. 

detached from the bed the moment i took a "nature" break. Lol

So today I took some time to setup the auto z. It was a little high due to switch offset. A few quick runs checking with the feeler gage and we are back in business. 

[bdejong11129]

The progression of a first test print to set the baseline. 

Two that would not stick so pulled out the super sticky build plate. 

Now that I have the baseline we go into tuning it in and tracking progress.  Not a super pretty print but for a quick run on an unturned machine I say it passes. It definitely needs some serious input shaper help. It has ghosting to the next zip code. 

[bdejong11129]

Started following the tuning guide and got the extruder calibrated easily enough.  Then I check square of the gantry and moved on to the first layer squish.  One thing I noticed is that the first set of first layer parts showed that I was near perfect in most areas of the bed except for a few.  This looked like a bed mesh would solve it so I went ahead, and not changing anything to address the gaps I had in a few prints, and did a good bed mesh.  Re-printed the first layer parts and they all came out perfect. 

It may be a good idea to think about that before changing settings from the first run without one.  This is the heightmap that came out of the bed mesh.  The bed was heat soaked for well over an hour at 60c prior to running the bed mesh calibrate. 

 

[bdejong11129]

After a few issues with Klicky...due to warped parts and setting the magnets to deep. I reprinted them and got the printer back up and running with Klicky. 

A little tuning later and a successful cube appeared.  Now we go back to finishing it up. Input shaper!

[bdejong11129]

I got a bit frisky and loaded up a bigger challenge to the printer. It came out looking good but I definitely have some work to do on tuning the strings.  

[PFarm]

On 5/24/2023 at 7:17 PM, bdejong11129 said:

Oh yeah. It was all user error for sure. I thought I counted the teeth but well.... obviously not. 

What did go well today was the bed heater came in. The question now is.. RTV it or not?. My first one has been running non stop without it but seems like people recommend it highly. 

I did prepare the surface with generous cleaning with IPA until the towel came off clean. 

Need to mount the thermal protector and wire it in but debating the rtv treatment. 

 

As mentioned it is an additional safety step, should you have a runaway heater issue and possibly have the heater blanket separate from the aluminum bed. The RTV will keep the blanket from falling off the aluminum bed. I did RTV on my heater blanket. For nice straight lines apply masking tape to keep RTV off area you don't want it on. 

[bdejong11129]

Have not updated this thread in awhile. I Had to put the printers in storage for a bit while I remodeled the garage.  Happy to report that both of them are back in up and running in a heated environment this time. 

They were plugged in, turned on, heated up and a quick first layer print completed before putting them to work. 

Now I get to put the finishing touches on the sibling so I can start on another one. Lol.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2023 by bdejong11129