My Voron needs a sibling. So why not build another one.

[claudermilk]

I agree. I have the non-magnet MRW bed with a sheet magnet sticker on it. That has worked the same across the spec inductive, Klicky, and Tap probes. I'm not sure that embedding magnets is actually a benefit with the limitations and issues it introduces.

[bdejong11129]

I am really torn on the mag bed and here is why.  Note: please don't take this as not appreciating the feedback and recommendations.  I appreciate all of the time everyone takes to respond and engage.

I don't use an inductive probe so that shouldn't be an issue.  I also don't use a BLTouch so that's also not an issue.  For my current Voron I am using a Euclid probe and since it's a simple switch it shouldn't be bothered by the magnets, unless they are so powerful, they repel or attract the Euclid off the print head. 

What I do have is a good old Prusa MK3 bed slinger that has a magnetic bed and it's an absolute tank and uses a Pinda(sp?) probe and it nails first layer every time. 

I have to think that a good, thick spring steel plate with smooth on both sides like the Prusa build plate would not only heat soak faster but also retain that heat without the layer of magnet material between it.  

Worse that can happen is I avoid that magnet locations or have to remove them and apply a sheet magnet.  It does look like we need a guinea pig here to try one out. 

I think I am going to go with the mag bed and be the one that gives it a go.  Since I have one with a magnetic sheet and then one without it we may be able to devise some comparison tests to see if it's the right choice or just preference. 

[atrushing]

On 4/19/2023 at 11:53 PM, bdejong11129 said:

I don't use an inductive probe so that shouldn't be an issue.  I also don't use a BLTouch so that's also not an issue.  For my current Voron I am using a Euclid probe and since it's a simple switch it shouldn't be bothered by the magnets, unless they are so powerful, they repel or attract the Euclid off the print head. 

What I do have is a good old Prusa MK3 bed slinger that has a magnetic bed and it's an absolute tank and uses a Pinda(sp?) probe and it nails first layer every time.

I am running an MK3S bed on my Trident and am using a generic Omron style probe with no issues at the magnet locations. I was even able to apply the Nylock Mod to the bed to tram it out flatter while at temperature. I do like that style of bed for the reasons that you mention. I just wish there was  a 120/240V version available to give quicker heating..

[bdejong11129]

Update 4/24/23

Received the items from Digi key, including the power supplies, filtered power input and din rails.  I also got the 9mm rails from one of my AliExpress orders.  One thing I have noticed about shipments from AliExpress is that they suppliers love that off yellow tape.  Man, do they really love that tape.  Each rail came wrapped in more than an inch of bubble wrap, then in their own box and then all 6 taped together.  Oh, and each box was also completely wrapped in that same tape.  God part is they all arrived in great shape.  I also got all the drive gears and the Gates drive belts. 

Ordered the bed from Mandala Rose Works.  I did opt for the magnetic bed and will report on how it works when the printer is done.  I also got the bottom plastic-core parts from them as well.  I am going to get this one up and running before fully enclosing it.  Later on, if the bottom and back pieces are good, I will complete the set from them. 

What I am debating now is the whole matched height kinematic setup. I get the benefits and when asked one member here had positive results with it.  On my current printer I am using a Euclid probe and love the performance.  For this one I would like to give Tap a try but still reading up on this setup with Tap and/or Euclid Probe. Discussion welcome on this topic. 

Until the remainder of the parts come in, I am finishing off printing the parts. The key ones are due in the first week of May, man the waiting is hard. lol

[bdejong11129]

Nooooooo. Delayed? I hope someone diddn't mess this one up.  This is the bed from Mandala Rose. 

[bdejong11129]

And now it's here..   It looks awesome. Holds a flex sheet very well. Now all I need is the ZDrive belts and I can get the next steps going. Supposedly be here Monday.

 

Until then...printing parts. After replacing the old MG9 with the MG12 and SB the parts are looking pretty good. 

Even fired up the resin printer. 

 

[bdejong11129]

Got some parts in the mail and was able to do a little more assembly today. Got the Z rails and drives assembled and installed. 

I do love the tool for setting the gear height. That made that part so nice compared to the last time. I did cheap out and ordered a single rod and made my own rods for the ZDrive assemblies. Went pretty well. Made the first one and then just marked off the areas that needed to be ground flat for the grub screws. 

[bdejong11129]

A productive weekend for sure. Got the gantry assembled and installed. I did go with the Ramalama2 front Idlers. I do like the design over the stock ones.

I did realize as I was building this weekend that somehow I forgot to order the heater for the bed.  It's on order now but that will probably be the last thing I install. Lol. 

Now the fun of squaring the gantry. Lol.  I so love that process. As you can see in the videos below that it is way off square. It's more trapezoidal. 

 this is the right hand side when the gantry is all the way to the front. 

 

 

[bdejong11129]

This is the left hand side when the gantry is all the way to the rear.  Since it switches sides I am sure it's just a trapezoid. Need to square it up tomorrow. Was in it for the better part of today and need a break. 

 

 

 

[mvdveer]

A difference in Belt tension can also do this as I found out recently.

[Buurman]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

A difference in Belt tension can also do this as I found out recently.

correct, dont tension one side and then the other, keep on turning both of them, little by little.

But yes, on the side where you have space left, loosen that side a bit, and tighten the other side. it will pull the gantry straighter, boths sides belts will tension, so when tightening B belt, you also see the A belt going tighter. (use the printable tensioners)

So as @mvdveer mentions, yes, you can correct it by belt tension. (if it was straight without the belts before)

[bdejong11129]

Getting ready for the weekend of building. Took delivery of the screen, controller and part of the zip chain.... oh, and printing skirts while I wait, enough to do some work for sure. 

[bdejong11129]

So, this morning when I waled out to the shop where I was printing more skirt parts for the "sibling", I noticed the left had door let loose.  The basic hinge is held in place with VHB tape and, well, didn't hold.  Yes, I alcohol wiped the parts and they have held up so far but as I increase the speed and push boundaries, it seems like a more secure hinge design is needed. 

What have you all used?  I did a search and there are several options out there for a sandwiched or bolted version but want to gage the consensus of the group on which ones worked the best. 

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, bdejong11129 said:

What have you all used?

I use the bolted version found here (teamfdm link) or here (GitHub link)

Works great - First used on the Trident build, then the V2.4r2 350 build and have since converted the V2.4r2 300 build to this as well. Never looked back. I think @Buurman uses this mod as well.

[ken226]

23 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I use the bolted version found here (teamfdm link) or here (GitHub link)

Works great - First used on the Trident build, then the V2.4r2 350 build and have since converted the V2.4r2 300 build to this as well. Never looked back. I think @Buurman uses this mod as well.

 

Same here.   They're more work to install but they're solid.  Well worth the effort.

[Buurman]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Never looked back. I think @Buurman uses this mod as well.

Correct, best thing ever, doors never fail, but you do have to drill holes in them (with a perfect template) use not a sharp normal drill, this can kill your panel.

If possible a trapezium drill, going from small to bigger holes... dont know the name, this one works very well for me, drilled 20 panels at least this way.

[PFarm]

4 minutes ago, Buurman said:

If possible a trapezium drill, going from small to bigger holes... dont know the name,

They are called step bits?

 

Edited May 11, 2023 by PFarm

[Buurman]

Dont push to enthusiastic though  dont want to be needing to use M5 rings  

[claudermilk]

6 hours ago, PFarm said:

They are called step bits?

Yep, step drill.

[bdejong11129]

Thanks!  Printing has started. 

I do hate drilling acrylic, but have the step bits and painters tape so let's hope I don't screw it up. Lol

[bdejong11129]

And.... installed on the older brother. Now to print another set for both. These were accidently printed on a super fast profile I am playing with and while functional are not 100% asetheticly pleasing. Good thing they are a bolt on. 

The drill template worked perfectly and with a slow drill speed and some pai ters tape there were no doors harmed in this install.

[bdejong11129]

Now. Did some work on the sibling today as well. Printed and mounted the electronics. De-Racked the gantry and added the drive belts. Took inventory of the SB parts and finishing those up. I forgot to order a second set if LED's when I updated its brother so there's another order. Lol.  When does it end?  

Still waiting on the wire but it's supposed to be here tomorrow so I may be wiring over the weekend. I also have all the skirts printed so maybe power within the next week?

[mvdveer]

6 minutes ago, bdejong11129 said:

When does it end?  

Mmmmhhhh - How about never?  There is always something - but that is the fun of it all. 

[bdejong11129]

SB installed.... done for the night.

[Buurman]

I absolutely LOVE the aggressive NEO Mustard color!! ok, maybe not the best name..