My Voron needs a sibling. So why not build another one.

[bdejong11129]

After taking far too long to put the finishing touches on my first Voron build, I feel the need to build another one and see what can be done when you apply the loooooong list of lessons learned from the first to the second. 

Here is what went into the OG Voron build

• Kit purchased from FormBot3d, went with the 350mm size. 
• Took about 9 months to build with a long break over the summer. 
• Parts were self-printed on a Prusa Mk3s with my SunRoom serving as the enclosure.
• I got the basics up and running in about a month of building when I had time. 
• Then a long wait while life and other stuff got in the way.
• A few months ago I re-organized the shop and dove in and completed the build with all the remaining pieces and a few upgrades. 
  • LED Lights
  • Euclid probe
  • BIGTREETECH Direct PITFT50 screen
  • 99% complete Stealth Burner, yes with LEDs.  Just need a free weekend to install.
• It is running Mainsail and has been putting out quality parts. 

This time I am going to self-source and take some time to build it to the latest specs.  Why self-source? Well, why not. The last time I went with a kit and well, it worked.  The printer is done and all I had to add was the Pi and a few, well, lots of printed parts.  This time I want to go and buy it all from the sources I choose and see what the difference is. 

So far, I have gone with a combination of McMaster, Ali Express and Bolt Depot for the basic nuts, bolts, gears and belts.  I went with KB3D for the Voron Frame kit and the LDO motors.  I will print all the parts on my first Voron and include all the current upgrades listed above from day 1.  Lots more to order and decide on so looking for input and recommendations for Print bed/heater choices along with sources for the enclosure parts. 

Voron #1 has the BTT Octopus controller board, and this has been a serious workhorse.  The big decision now is to build #2 with the same controller or go with the new Manta board and the BTT Pi clone adapter.  Could use some discussion on that choice. 

[claudermilk]

For my self-sourced Trident bed I went with the standard Mandala Rose Works one and it's a good one. I also went with them for the acrylic panel kit. For the heater, I went with a spec Keenovo pad; I kind of wish I had done the Fermio-style one to cover the edges of the bed.

For me, I would lean to the Octopus. You know it and it's a solid controller. But playing with the Manta is an interesting prospect.

[mvdveer]

20 hours ago, bdejong11129 said:

The big decision now is to build #2 with the same controller or go with the new Manta board and the BTT Pi clone adapter. 

I would stay with the Octopus board - Solid and well known, does everything you want and more. The only downside is you need one of those RARE raspberry pi's.  If you are the adventurous type or do not have a spare raspi - then there is nothing wrong with trying the manta board and Pi clone adapter. My Trident has the octopus board, in an inverted electronics bay - there is enough space to fit it without an issue.

[ken226]

53 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I would stay with the Octopus board - Solid and well known, does everything you want and more. The only downside is you need one of those RARE raspberry pi's.  If you are the adventurous type or do not have a spare raspi - then there is nothing wrong with trying the manta board and Pi clone adapter. My Trident has the octopus board, in an inverted electronics bay - there is enough space to fit it without an issue.

I used a CB1 mounted in a BTT Pi4B adapter board,  with my Octopus V1.1 board. 

The only downside is that you are limited to either the TFT35 SPI V2.1 and IO2Can screen setup, or to a HDMI/USB-touch type screen.

I can verify firsthand that the CB1 in a Pi4B adapter works with the Waveshare 4.3" hdmi usb-touch screen:

4.3inch Capacitive Touch Screen LCD (B), 800×480, HDMI, IPS, Various Devices & Systems Support | 4.3inch HDMI LCD (B) (waveshare.com)

Edited April 11, 2023 by ken226

[bdejong11129]

Thanks for all the input.  Interesting about the Manta+CB1 screens.  I do have an extra Pi4 back when they were easy to get.  While the "bleeding"edge in me wants to try the manta board, the safe and easy part of me would like to be able to have one eco-system to deal with.  Will more than likely stick with the Octopus, it has been a real workhorse for me so far. 

Anyways, first shipment of parts came in today.

• Got all the bolts and nuts from a combination of Bolt Depot and McMaster.  The only thing that got me was the shipping from McMaster.  Man, they are proud of the little box they sent me. They were just over 2.00 more than bolt depot for the three items I got from there compared to the 14 I got from Bolt Depot. Lesson learned. However, there were a few items that I just didnt see on Bolt Depot. Feel free to post links of where I went wrong with the search of Bolt Depot. lol
  • M3x40MM
  • Knurled Thumb Nut(for the bed mounts)
  • M2x10mm self tapping screws.
• Went with KB3D for the frame kit and the motor kit.  Both are from LDO and after pricing each from the listed sources the KB3D prices were better. 

All the drive components are on order for AliExpress so we have about 3 weeks for those to show up.  In the mean time I will get the Controller and electronics ordered.  

I also need to choose the accent color.  The frame is the space gray, but the delivered pieces are "shinier" than expected...

 

[claudermilk]

Yeah, McMaster shipping is steep. I ended up going with Grainger in large part because I have a brick-and-mortar location close enough that I just ordered will-call pickup and skipped the shipping completely. I think I went with Amazon for the thumb nuts and DFH for the M2x10.

[Buurman]

20 hours ago, bdejong11129 said:

I also need to choose the accent color.  The frame is the space gray, but the delivered pieces are "shinier" than expected...

I have no idea what shipping from Canada is to the USA, but I can really advise the colors and ASA from Sparta3D, all colors they have in ABS, they also have in ASA.
My last build was with Skysparkle blue, yes, with glitter.. its my new favorite color by far! and the quality is also amazing.

 

[PFarm]

Spartan 3D ABS is awesome all colours seem to have a quality finish.

[claudermilk]

What @PFarm said, and shipping to the US is not bad at all for Sparta.

[bdejong11129]

Last night I cleared some space and started some assembly. How many here use a slab of granite for a flat surface to build the frame on? Don't mind getting one but very little use for it unless I tear it down. 

 

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, bdejong11129 said:

slab of granite for a flat surface

I use a 10mm glass sheet - seems to work ok!

Like the "support" you have - a bourbon I guess

 

[bdejong11129]

56 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I use a 10mm glass sheet - seems to work ok!

Like the "support" you have - a bourbon I guess

You guessed correctly. 

Will see of the wife will mind if I level the frame on our kitchen granite coutertops.   Lol. Should be an interesting conversation.  

I did square it up on the bench with a good machinist square. Will report back if the granite slab shows and defects.

Printed a sample of Hatchbox orange. Printing a nice neon green now. I think this space gray needs a color that "pops"

[smirk]

 

13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

a bourbon I guess

I'm amazed there's not a drinks cabinet mod for the Voron yet, given how much "lubrication" is required during construction and operation.

You get them for old computers, why not Vorons?

[claudermilk]

I happened to use our granite kitchen counter top for both my Mini+ and Trident builds. Just made sure to clean them off after. We also have a section that isn't primary food prep area and I didn't compete for the space during dinner prep. That kept everything copacetic. It was well worth the effort--both printers are as square as I can make them.

[smirk]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

I didn't compete for the space during dinner prep.

I would  love to have seen that and the conversation "Look love, I'm over here. Don't worry, you're not in my way. I can still build my frame while you potter about".

[bdejong11129]

The benefit I have is that my wife works 12h shifts at the hospital. I get home around 5pm so I have several hours to do the work and get it back to the gagmrage before she gets home. I assume that once I have the frame level and bolted I can complete the rest in my workbench. 

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, smirk said:

I'm amazed there's not a drinks cabinet mod for the Voron yet

Don't plant ideas in my head - you know what happens!

[bdejong11129]

And now we pause this show while I wait for AliExpress deliveries. 

[claudermilk]

On 4/14/2023 at 7:52 AM, smirk said:

I would  love to have seen that and the conversation "Look love, I'm over here. Don't worry, you're not in my way. I can still build my frame while you potter about".

To be honest it wasn't too far off that. No, really. We have a peninsula setup so a fairly deep section of counter that I was able to grab a corner of while she was on the other side pottering about. Some pleasant chit-chat while we each did our projects. I cleared off when it was time to pack up for the evening.

Near-complete remodel. I built the printer frame on the left near corner where the pile of tools is sitting, she on the other side in the kitchen proper. I have a breakfast table behind the camera position (actually IN the camera position) where my tools & parts sat. Worked out nicely. I just had to make sure to be cleared off before any actual cooking took place.

Now enough intermission distraction while we wait for @bdejong11129 to get his AliExpress parts. 

[bdejong11129]

Whew, got the next batch of parts on the way. In the meantime I figured why not put a StealthBurner on my current one. It has the leds, I just need to run the wires. 

Tuning it in now. 

[bdejong11129]

OK, so after a day of comparing prices, looking at specs and making decisions there were a few items that made me question things.  

The first one was the Din Rail mount for the SSR.  On DigiKey it was like 27.00 but on AliExpress you could get one for about 1.00.  Even with the highest shipping it was still under 10.00.  It's a standard mount for pete's sake.  I just couldn't overlook the price difference. 

I did find a good price for the Octopus controller, with all the drivers and a PITFT50 display for S105 shipped. Yes, I did end up going with another Octopus so that the two printers would be somewhat similar, and I can transfer all my lessons learned.

Oh, and did I mention that Digikey charged me a tariff fee?  Yes, I kid you not, on the bill was a $7.45 charge for tariff.  

Down to the last 20 or so items.  The major ones being the acrylic and enclosure plastic pieces and the bed.  The rest is a bunch of easy items to find.  Debating how much to spend on the bed and heater. 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, bdejong11129 said:

Debating how much to spend on the bed and heater. 

My advice, is not to skimp on these. If you can afford it, get the Mandala-Rose-Works bed which is SUPER flat. If not get a bed from a reputable dealer - not Aliexpress. (From personal experience these are not the best quality and not 100% flat)

This is one factor that helps a great deal with print quality. 8/9mm would be better than 6mm. (6mm is the minimum thickness)  Cast plate aluminium, not rolled.

I like the Keenovo heater pads - never had an issue with these. 

[bdejong11129]

I have been looking at thier bed options. It would seem like you would want/have to go with the magbed option. The variance in the stick on magnet sheet would probably cancel out all the benefits of the ultra flat bed. 

Since I plan to use the Euclid probe I don't think the magnets will give me any trouble. 

Anyone here tried the magbed?

[claudermilk]

What @mvdveer said. I am very happy with my (non-magnetic) Mandala Rose Works bed. I also got my enclosure plastic from them and it's good. I also have a Keenovo heater pad, no problems with it at all.

[Buurman]

5 hours ago, bdejong11129 said:

I have been looking at thier bed options. It would seem like you would want/have to go with the magbed option. The variance in the stick on magnet sheet would probably cancel out all the benefits of the ultra flat bed. 

Since I plan to use the Euclid probe I don't think the magnets will give me any trouble. 

Anyone here tried the magbed?

I think the magbed can be a disadvantage in some situations since the magnets are so strong, most homing devices are influenced by it, so you need to make sure you trigger points on the bed that dont have magnets.

I have no idea if TAP is influenced by it though.. but yeah, anything with iron homing on those magnets may be off by a bit.

I see no issues with magnet stickers, since they are extremely flat made, up to you to stick it without bubbles, no worries almost impossible, but do clean it well before sticking.