Motion system Switchwire

[Razor1666]

2 minutes ago, Maurici said:

Good luck. hope it helps. Is an SKR mini V3, you may want to keep your pin numbers just in case.

Yes....novice for sure but learning. I have the V2, so like you suggest, I'll keep my pin numbers..

Appreciate it

[Maurici]

1 minute ago, Razor1666 said:

Appreciate it

Happy to help.

Please quote me for any further problems, I don´t know how many people is around with switchwires in this forum, but my build is really really fresh. Did it a few weeks ago really.

 

Yours looks stunning. Mines was an exercise of implementing the motion system of an already enclosed existing printer, and looks shit in comparison.

Also my extruder, while very very very capable is nowere near as nice.

 

I didn´t detail much the build(at all), but I´ve done some tweaks and mods that may be helpful to you!

 

 

[Razor1666]

1 minute ago, Maurici said:

Please quote me for any further problems

Will do.

I also have been running cartesian printers a few years now and I was going to go the dual Z belted option but decided to go the ender/switchwire conversion route instead. It's been a steep learning curve but things are starting to make sense.

Cheers 

[claudermilk]

I am wondering about the wiring. Was stepper buzz done? Did the motors move as expected?

See here under Stepper Motor Check: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/

[Razor1666]

50 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I am wondering about the wiring. Was stepper buzz done? Did the motors move as expected?

See here under Stepper Motor Check: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/

Yes...it was done and the motors moved. My x,y,z all move in the direction they are suppose too now. However, knowing what I know now it wouldn't hurt to revisit this. This is probably a good place to start

I thought by changing my origin point in SuperSlicer from left front (0,0)to right front(220,0) it would fix my prints, however, that just brought grief with a "Move out of range error: -86.418 86.414 0.480 [21.9]"

I promptly reverted my origin back...lol

Superslicer didn't have a profile for a Switchwire so I just went custom.   What profiles/Slicer's are my switchwire friends using?

In my searches I came upon this..

 

In FDM printers, Z is always up, so home has to be at the front-left corner or right-rear corner of the printer in order to match the standard right-hand rule coordinate axes used in CAD software and slicers. If you put the origin at the right front or left rear, your prints will come out mirrored.

The limit switches can be anywhere that is convenient, but the homing direction has to be consistent with right hand rule coordinates. For example, if the left-front corner is home, and you put the X axis limit switch at the right side of of the X axis, you have to tell the firmware that it homes to maximum in X, and then tell it the ordinate at that position (maybe 220 mm, for example).

The X and Y directions are from the point of view of the nozzle relative to the bed. If you use the left front corner as the origin, and the bed moves in the Y axis, when the bed moves back, the nozzle gets closer to the front edge, so the Y=0 switch should be at the back of the printer. Alternatively, you can put it at the front, but then you must tell the firmware that it homes to max and give it the ordinate value.

Slic3r assumes that the printer's origin is at the left-front corner of the machine and opens with that orientation displayed. The coordinate reference displays at the printer's origin, which may be on or off the bed. The axes are displayed as red, green, and blue lines that correspond to the X, Y, and Z axes respectively (also typical in CAD). If the printer's origin is away from the bed you have to enter offsets which are the distance from the bed plate front-left corner to the printer's front-left origin. Again, you can use right-rear corner and it will work OK, too

 

 

Edited February 21, 2023 by Razor1666

[Razor1666]

1 hour ago, Maurici said:

# Motor -XM
# Endstop - X-STOP
###############
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PB13
dir_pin: PB12
enable_pin: !PB14
rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
microsteps: 32
endstop_pin: ^PC0
position_endstop: 217
position_min: 0
position_max: 217
homing_speed: 70
homing_positive_dir: true

So I'm pretty sure I have my position endstop: 0 in my config. I'll check that later today

[Razor1666]

Thought I would add some test prints....Pretty happy with them..... still lots to tweak.

Printed the Gar guy and cube at 0.1 layer height 200m/s Accel 3000 

Benchy was 0.1LH 80m/s Accel 1500

 

[claudermilk]

What benchy is that? It will really torture test my current issues.

[Razor1666]

34 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

What benchy is that?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2659257

 

I think I printed it at 50%.... enjoy

[Razor1666]

So I had sometime on the weekend to play with my SW again. The EXP1/EXP2 board arrived from Etsy and I received my longer cables... All Set for mini-display install!

So I installed, uncommented the display and neopixel sections in my printer.cfg and restarted. No go!

Now I'm receiving a mcu out of date error for spi or something. Oh boy! Why can't things just be easy (sometimes..) lol

I find it odd that the mcu is out of date already.... I just flashed it 2 months ago but C'est la vie!

I restored the cfg back and starting printing again. This will have to wait now until I can free up some more time..

On a side note... I did turn off stealthchop and (knock on wood) no more layer shifts..... It's still early but here's hoping it stays like that.  

 

[Maurici]

16 minutes ago, Razor1666 said:

On a side note... I did turn off stealthchop and (knock on wood) no more layer shifts..... It's still early but here's hoping it stays like that.  

That makes sense actually... Seathchop doesn´t plays very nice with many setups.

[Razor1666]

So squeaked out some more time this weekend to work on the Switchwire.

Updated the mcu and printer config for the display.

I also played around with KAMP and got it working...love it!

Then I noticed weird bed meshes... upon further inspection I found a stretched belt on X.... I did use cheap belts as my gates hadn't arrived at time of build. So that will be my next project.

Did I sign up for this???  Yes.....yes I did..     Love this hobby!!

 

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Razor1666 said:

Did I sign up for this???  Yes.....yes I did..     Love this hobby!!

And another one bites the dust, and another one ……… Looking great

[BUGBEAR]

On 1/30/2023 at 9:56 PM, Razor1666 said:

Yes...When I tell Z to move 100mm it moves 55mm up...(just eyeballing with a ruler). I could mark the belt and measure how far the belt moves.

The motors are both creality 42-34 steppers. both motors are set to 40 for rotational distance and 16 microsteps. Stealthchop set to 999999. (Not sure what this is for.. I've seen it set to 250 in other printer.cfg files.... I not sure if changing that will affect anything

I don't hear the motors skipping but it's possible....???

I have some troubleshooting ahead of me 

Hello 

I am having the exact same issue as you had , I also have reality 42-34 motors , movement in y direction is fine and accurate but X and Z are way off ,

Mine is set at

rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200

Movement in X goes upto 270 and in Z upto 225. what should n\be the correct value for these stepper motors , I have check both motors everything is tightened up.

 

[Razor1666]

23 minutes ago, BUGBEAR said:

I am having the exact same issue as you had , I also have reality 42-34 motors , movement in y direction is fine and accurate but X and Z are way off

@BUGBEAR Yes. Rotation_distance and steps_per on the X and Z should be the same. 42-34 motors are 1.8 degree so 200x1.8 = 360 degrees

The issues I encountered where caused by a loose gear on my X motor and a cheap belt that was stretching.

If you've checked all your grub screws and your gears are matched (20teeth vs 16 teeth) on X and Z, maybe check your belt. Your GT2 belts teeth should be 2mm apart. 

20 teeth x 2mm = Rotation of 40mm

 

[BUGBEAR]

2 minutes ago, Razor1666 said:

@BUGBEAR Yes. Rotation_distance and steps_per on the X and Z should be the same. 42-34 motors are 1.8 degree so 200x1.8 = 360 degrees

The issues I encountered where caused by a loose gear on my X motor and a cheap belt that was stretching.

If you've checked all your grub screws and your gears are matched (20teeth vs 16 teeth) on X and Z, maybe check your belt. Your GT2 belts teeth should be 2mm apart. 

20 teeth x 2mm = Rotation of 40mm

Thanks for the reply , it seems my pully has 16 teeth , I did not count at start used what was laying around from another project. after setting according to the 16 teeth it Is working fine.

 

Edited March 4 by BUGBEAR

[Razor1666]

6 minutes ago, BUGBEAR said:

after setting according to the 16 teeth it Is working fine.

Excellent news..

 

[Penatr8tor]

On 4/24/2023 at 8:36 AM, Razor1666 said:

Then I noticed weird bed meshes... upon further inspection I found a stretched belt on X.... I did use cheap belts as my gates hadn't arrived at time of build. So that will be my next project.

So, Firstly... @Razor1666 Your Switchwire build is looking awesome! I've been slacking and haven't been checking in on all the builds lately.

Secondly... I'm so glad you posted this little comment because, I just re-belted my 2.4 that I'm refurbishing. I ordered new 6mm belts for the gantry and I inadvertently ordered a length of non-gates belt. It was all black with some white fiberglass strands. Anyways... I ordered some legit Gates belt and decided to wait. I'm really happy I waited and used the right belt.