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I was having trouble getting my enclosure temperatures above 45C to achieve my optimum print settings. This is the solution I came up with to solve my enclosure temperature issues. I'm running a Fystec Spider v1.1, so your printer config would likely differ. I'm also using a Hartk v4.0 PCB that has an integrated chamber thermistor. I've included my settings for this as well, but you may need to change this up if you use a different thermistor for enclosure temperature readings. I hope this is helpful for someone. I couldn't find a lot of solutions out on the net that could get me up and going with a setup like this, so it was a lot of trial and error to get to this point. Let me know if you have any comments or suggestions that can help me make this thing better! How I set things up: I removed the fan from the PTC heater and inserted a 100K NTC thermistor into one of the bordering fins on the heater core. I then filled the remaining gap in the fin with thermal grease and reattached the fan. I added a thermal fuse to make sure the power would get cut if the temperatures get out of hand from a bad config or faulty piece of hardware. First I drilled a 1/8" hole next to the center ground pin, rivetted the fuse to the heater's core, and applied thermal grease between the fuse body and the heater core. I then moved the ground wire to run from the fuse rather than the tab. Once I wired this up, I ran the temperatures up past the fuse limits to verify things fail safely as expected. I then replaced the fuse after test failed as expected. I extended all of the wiring with solder connections to make sure it would be long enough reach each wire's intended destination, and capped each connection with heat shrink. I mounted the PTC heater to the printed PTC heater mount and ran the wires to the wiring compartment. I installed the Omron relay, and ran a 24v output from my controller to the relay's 5-24v input. I then routed 110v AC to the other end of the relay on the hot lead. I finished up the wiring by hooking up the 12v line for the heater fan and the heater thermistor to the controller board. (Note: my chamber thermistor was already installed on my toolhead's PCB) I updated my printer.cfg and ran a bunch of tests on the heater to make sure it was functioning properly. BOM: Electronics: - PTC Heater w/ Fan x1 - Item on Amazon - NTC 100k thermistor - Item on Amazon - 120C Thermal Fuse - Item on Amazon - Omron 5-24v Relay - Item on West3D Printed Parts: - Printed PTC Heater Mount x1 Miscellaneous: - M3x8mm SHCS x2 - M3 T-nut x2 - 18awg stranded wire ~2 meters - 22awg stranded wire ~2 meters - 1/8" Rivet x1 - Appropriate connectors for you controller board Changes to printer.cfg: ###################### ### Chamber Heater ### ###################### [heater_generic chamber_heater] heater_pin: PC8 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC2 control: watermark max_power: .5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 110 [verify_heater chamber_heater] max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 120 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 2 ########################## ### Chamber Heater Fan ### ########################## [heater_fan chamber_heater_fan] pin: PB6 max_power: 1.0 heater: chamber_heater heater_temp: 40.0 # fan will turn off below this level ############################# ### Enclosure Temperature ### ############################# [thermistor chamber_thermistor] temperature1: 25 resistance1: 10000 beta: 3950 [temperature_sensor enclosure_temp] sensor_type: chamber_thermistor sensor_pin: PC1 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 80 Macro: You can run this and immediately start your print. The print wont actually start until the specified chamber temperatures are reached. [gcode_macro CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT] gcode: {% if params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float %} {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: MIN_TEMPERATURE must be less than or equal to MAX_TEMPERATURE Use: - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")} {% elif params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} {% if params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float} {% else %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} {% endif %} {% elif params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float} {% else %} {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: invalid usage Use: - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")} {% endif %} Updates: - I added a photo of how this is wired up in the wiring compartment. The boxes with the text in the photo represent the components of the heater that are in the chamber of the printer. - I have included the macro to wait for chamber to reach temps before starting a print. - I have attached the heater mount's fusion 360 file for others to be able to easily make edits to the chamber heater mount Chamber Heater Mount v2.f3d

This simple mod will give you the ability to add 4010 or 4020 fans to your AB drive motors on your Voron 2.4 Additionally you can use generic 3950 NTC for temperature controlling the fans if you have enough pin on your controller board. I've designed my own controller board and I considered 5 NTCs so I could easily adapt to this mod. Why I made this mod? Personally I like to keep my motors temperature around 55-60°C for this purpose I needed active cooling, Based on tests using a high speed fan at PWM around 50% is enough to keep my motors cool while keeping fan noise to minimum. So at maximum 50% pwm for fans they are silent enough not to hear them and sufficient enough to cool motors properly. What you will need for each motor: 2 M3x5x4 Threaded instert 1 AB Drive Fan for Voron 2.4.step 2 screws are the height of your fan + 5mm extra (for 4010 fans 3x15mm, for 4020 3x25mm. Best use BHCS). 2 screw 5mm longer than your motor screw File are super easy to print and super easy to adapt. You'll need one fan holder per motor and one NTC holder for each NTC. Print with default voron settings and no support. Installation: First put 2 inserts into their designated holes in motor holder in opposite diagonals (bigger holes). Then remove 2 diagonals screws from your motor. Preferably the one that has no screws on top side and it's diagonal one. Measure your motor screws with a ruler or caliper and use 5mm longer screws to attach motor holder to your motor. Now you can use 2 screws 5mm longer than your fan height to attach your fan to motor fan holder using insert you added earlier Optionally you use ziptie and heatsink compound to attach a NTC to the body of your motor for temperature control. 200x3mm ziptie must be sufficient for this purpose. "AB Motor Thermistors Holder.stl" are for holding thermistor in place. Here is the klipper config for controlling each fan separately based on their temperature: #-----A MOTOR FAN---# [temperature_fan motor_a] pin: PB10 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC3 kick_start_time: 0.5 off_below: 0.1 max_power: 0.5 min_speed: 0 shutdown_speed: 0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 55 control: pid pid_kp: 1.0 pid_ki: 0.5 pid_kd: 2.0 #-----B MOTOR FAN---# [temperature_fan motor_b] pin: PB12 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC1 kick_start_time: 0.5 off_below: 0.1 max_power: 0.5 min_speed: 0 shutdown_speed: 0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 55 control: pid pid_kp: 1.0 pid_ki: 0.5 pid_kd: 2.0 Don't forget to change Fan and NTC pins based on your own board. If you want to use simple control without ntcs use this code instead: [output_pin ab_fan] pin: PB1 pwm:true shutdown_value: 0 value:1.0 cycle_time: 0.01 kick_start_time: 0.5 Don't forget to change Fan pins based on your board. Additionally if you want you can use only one ntc for one motor and control both fans based on NTC: #-----AB MOTOR FAN---# [temperature_fan ab_motors] pin: PB10 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC3 kick_start_time: 0.5 off_below: 0.1 max_power: 0.5 min_speed: 0 shutdown_speed: 0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 55 control: pid pid_kp: 1.0 pid_ki: 0.5 pid_kd: 2.0 Don't forget to change Fan and NTC pins based on your own board. if you are using Feel free to express your opinion about this mod, edit it or use it however you want

Attention all Voron users, who among you can attest to desiring a quieter fan for their controller cooling system? Search no more, as we have the perfect solution implemented across all our Voron printers. It maintains the necessary airflow while significantly reducing the noise generated by the fans. This is a crucial addition for those who operate their printers in workspaces. If you like the work I do here at 3D Magic feel free to have a look at some of my other designs : https://cults3d.com/en/users/ThreeDMagic/3d-models Print settings: Material ABS Layer Hight 0.2 or less Parimeters 3 Infill 20% (lines)

I wanted to reach ABS/ASA temperatures faster, and be able to maintain 55-60°C for those larger warp-prone prints, so I designed this chamber heater mount. If you're going to attempt this, make sure to use a temperature fuse to protect your printer (and your house) from burning down in the event of failure/over-heating. I used 2x 3mmx5mm long heatserts inserted from the front, and 3mmx12mm screws to attach the heater. 4x 3mm t-nuts and 4x 3mmx10mm screws are required for mounting the bracket. I used this 120VAC 250W heater (with 12VDC fan): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NYX5DKD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I used this SSR: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WLNHPWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I loosely followed the chamber heater post from @ahough, and this would've been way harder (nigh impossible) without their post and the comments section. Notable mention goes out to @Dousi as well, since I copied and modified their config example to use as my own. I hope the configs below help someone else along their way. ******** ******** Here is my chamber heater section within my printer.cfg file: ******** ##################################################################### # CHAMBER HEATER ##################################################################### [thermistor chamber_thermistor] #define "chamber_thermistor" characteristics temperature1: 25 resistance1: 100000 beta: 3950 [thermistor heater_thermistor] #define "heater_thermistor" characteristics temperature1: 0.0 resistance1: 32116.0 temperature2: 40.0 resistance2: 5309.0 temperature3: 80.0 resistance3: 1228.0 [temperature_sensor heater_temp] #this is the temp sensor for the 10K probe inserted in the heater core sensor_type: heater_thermistor #use temp sensor characteristics as defined in "heater_thermistor" sensor_pin: PA2 #Manta 8P temp sensor input pin. This temp probe is glued to the heater core with UV resin min_temp: -100 #set minimum temp before error/shutdown max_temp: 140 #SAFETY max heater core temperature, printer will shutdown above this temp [heater_generic chamber_heater] #setup chamber heater heater_pin: PE3 #Manta 8P heater output pin to SSR. This temp probe is mounted near the top of my chamber sensor_type: chamber_thermistor #use temp sensor characteristics as defined in "chamber_thermistor" sensor_pin: PA1 #Manta *P temp sensor input pin control: watermark #use watermark control method (on/off) max_delta: 0.1 #set the delta temp to energize/deenergize chamber heater max_power: 1.0 #set maximum power of heater 1.0 = 100% min_temp: -100 #set minimum temp before error/shutdown max_temp: 70 #SAFETY max chamber temperature, printer will shutdown above this temp pwm_cycle_time: 0.01666 #Set this to avoid room lights flickering on higher power heaters. This value works well for 60Hz power. 0.1 is 10Hz [verify_heater chamber_heater] #setup chamber heater verification parameters max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 240 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 1 [heater_fan heater_fan] #setup fan attached to back of chamber heater pin: PE4 #Manta 8P fan output pin. Jumper selected for 12V max_power: 1.0 #set maximum power of fan 1.0 = 100% heater: chamber_heater #when "chamber_heater" is ON fan will be ON heater_temp: 30 #fan will turn off below this level ##################################################################### # MACROS ##################################################################### [gcode_macro M191] gcode: {% set S = params.S | default(0) | float %} SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber_heater TARGET={S} M118 Chamber heating to {S}C M118 Waiting for chamber heating... TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="heater_generic chamber_heater" MINIMUM={S} M118 Chamber heating {S}C is done. ******** ******** I also run Ellis' bedfans, and modified bedfans.cfg, "Command overrides" section to the below: ******** ############ Command overrides ############ # Override, set fan speeds to low and start monitoring loop. [gcode_macro SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE] rename_existing: _SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE gcode: # Parameters {% set HEATER = params.HEATER|default("None") %} {% set TARGET = params.TARGET|default(0)|int %} # Vars {% set THRESHOLD = printer["gcode_macro _BEDFANVARS"].threshold|int %} {% if HEATER|lower == "extruder" %} M104 S{TARGET} {% elif HEATER|lower == "heater_bed" %} M99140 S{TARGET} {% elif HEATER|lower == "chamber_heater" %} _SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber_heater TARGET={TARGET} {% else %} {action_respond_info("Heater %s not supported" % HEATER)} {% endif %} # Set fans to low if heater_bed temp is requested above threshold temp, and kick off monitoring loop. {% if HEATER|lower == "heater_bed" %} {% if TARGET >= THRESHOLD %} BEDFANSSLOW UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=bedfanloop DURATION=1 {% else %} BEDFANSOFF UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=bedfanloop DURATION=0 # Cancel bed fan loop if it's running {% endif %} {% endif %} ******** ******** II then modified my PRINT_START macro to include the chamber heater stuff as seen below: ******** [gcode_macro PRINT_START] # Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - PLEASE CUSTOMISE THE SCRIPT gcode: EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE BED_MESH_PROFILE load=default # Load variables {% set bed_temp = params.BED|default(60)|int %} {% set extruder_temp = params.EXTRUDER|default(230)|int %} {% set CHAMBER_TEMP = params.CHAMBER|default(20)|float %} M104 S150 #start nozzle heating, keep below oozing temp M117 Extruder Heating... M140 S{bed_temp} #set bed temp to "bed_temp" and move on M117 Bed Heating.... M190 S{bed_temp} #allow bed to get up to temperature M117 Heating Chamber... M191 S{CHAMBER_TEMP} G90 #Use absolute coordinates M117 Homing... G28 M117 Adjusting Z Tilt... Z_TILT_ADJUST G28 M117 Calibrating Bed Mesh... BED_MESH_CALIBRATE M117 Waiting for Extruder to Reach Printing Temperature... M109 S{extruder_temp} G92 E0 #Reset exruder M117 Purging Filament... ADAPTIVE_PURGE M117 ******** ******** I use CURA and this is my Start Gcode as defined within Cura: ******** ;Nozzle diameter = {machine_nozzle_size} ;Filament type = {material_type} ;Filament name = {material_name} M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate M117 PRINT_START EXTRUDER={material_print_temperature_layer_0} BED={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} CHAMBER={build_volume_temperature}

A Mount for installing a 5015 FAN ( like a SUNON MF50152V2-1000U-A99 ) with 40mm Hole Spacing to a 60mm Stepper Motor ( like the LDO-42STH60-3004MAC (S40) ) I tried using Double Sided Tapes and Magnets but neither of them were a reliable Solution so here's a Version that securely mounts it to the Stepper Motor without using the Stepper Motor Screws. BOM ( for a Set of two ) : 8x M3x4mm Voron Style Heat Set Inserts 8x M3x20mm Button Head Cap Screws 4x M3x12mm Button Head Cap Screws Print Instructions: The Parts come as Multi Color Parts for those that fancy it. I've used the usual Voron 0.2mm Layer Height, 4x Perimeter, 5x Top / Bottom Layers, and 40% Infill Settings which should work for anything using Heat Set Inserts. Perhaps use a Brim for the Air Guides since they barely make any contact with the Bed. Installation Instructions: Install two M3x12mm Button Head Cap Screws that will hold the Mount to the Stepper into the Fan Mount - It helps doing this while the Stepper has not yet been installed to gauge how far the Screws will have to be threaded into the Mount. Install the Voron Style M3x4mm Heat Set Inserts into both the Fan Mount and the Air Guides. Use the Fan to Assemble the Air Guides and Fan Mount into a unit using M3x20mm Button Head Cap Screws - Be mindful of a suitable Fan Cable Orientation that works for your Setup. Slide the Fan Mount onto the Stepper with the Screw closest to the Fan catching onto the Stepper Motors Bottom Plate first, then rotate the Mount so that the rear Screw will catch as well. ⚠ Caution ⚠: This was tested with a Chaoticlab CNC Tap V2.0 and no MicroSwitch Endstop Mount attached to it! ( Sensorless Homing! ) This AddOn may not work with any X-Carriers having Parts occupying the space below the X-Axis Extrusion as the FANs now partially do!

These hinges allow for 270 degrees of motion, from closed 0° to 270° full open parallel with the side panels. This was developed out of an effort of running into tolerance issues with the spec hinges not allowing much room if the two panel doors are used and are slightly cut larger by only 1 mm or so. I ran into issues closing and the doors hitting and needed something that allowed more horizontal movement. So it was decided to figure a way to mount on the side of the printer. After some searching, printing, trial & error, I came to what you see below. 270 degrees wasn't the initial intention but figured if they are going to be mounted to the side, might as well take advantage of the extra flexibility. During development and testing of these I struggled with tape being sufficient with my first version of these. So went back and designed these to use hardware and remove tape from the equation. Hardware mount was heavily influenced by Randell other door hinge mod that uses hardware. The handles in this mod are a remixed version of Randell's to adjust for the altered latch developed for this setup. The latch in the mod gives as much room as possible vertically if panels are slightly too tall. Note: Un-tested but the holes should line up with Randell's hardware for the hinges if you are looking to swap for more swivel. As you can see this setup allows vertical and horizontal freedom if your panels are cut too large. BOM Hinge Hardware M3 x 35 mm SHCS [x4] M3 x 8 mm SHCS [x4] Side Mount M3 x 8 mm BHCS [x8] Backplate. SHCS can also be used here. And if you want a flush look 8 mm FHCS M3 Threaded Insert [x8] M3 T-nuts [x4] hammerhead or spring ball, your choice Latch 3 mm x 6 mm magnets [x4] M3 x 6 mm SHCS [x2] BHCS screws work better here if you have them M3 T-nuts [x2] hammerhead or spring ball, your choice Handles 3 mm x 6 mm magnets [x4] M3 x 6 mm BHCS [x8] M3 Threaded Insert [x8] Printing Use the default recommended for Voron parts. Can be done in PLA but I have not tested this. If having issues printing side mounts you may need to add a brim to those and trim before installation Layer Height : 0.2 mm Extrusion Width : 0.4 mm Infill : 40 % Walls : 4 Solid Top/Bottom : 5 There is a left (a) and right (b), you will need to print 2 for each side. There are 2 versions of each of the hinge faces if you don't want a Voron logo or want to mix and match. Multiple depths are also provided. Should you need a specific depth and no access to Fusion, feel free to reach out to me on discord chrisrgonzales#0731 The 4 mm is typical 3 mm panel and 1 mm foam , and 6 mm files are for 3 mm panel and 3 mm foam. You will need to print 4 of the side mounts, they are not side specific. Assembly These are designed to have a tight tolerance, so the 35 mm screw can be screwed into the lower portion of the face hinge, and still have some play without wiggle. You will likely have to thread it all the way down then play with the hinge and pivot it a couple of times to work it in before attaching. Do not over tighten the screw as it will bind on the upper portion. If you feel it binding, back the screw off just a lil bit. When installing back plates to hinges to protect panel from cracking be careful not to screw down too much as insert depth is shallow as you may risk of pushing through. The backplates have a chamfer for more recessed look, but can be flipped if you have longer hardware. Take it slow when installing heat inserts as it's very easy to push them through and cause deformation on the face of the hinge. Set temp on iron lower than used on most other heat inserted parts as this gives you more time not to press through. Also you may have to use the side of your iron's tip as not to puncture all the way. For placement of drilling, you can install the hinges in place, and tape or use panel clips from sides temporarily to hold front doors and tape outline of hinge. Then remove the panel and hinge, place the hinge where the tape outline is, mark the hole and drill. CAD Files The CAD files are parametric! When opened in Fusion 360, editing the thickness parameter will change the spacing and geometry to allow the hinge full 270 articulation. Enter in thickness of your panel and foam, I would recommend accounting for the compression in your foam. Example 3 mm panel with 3 mm foam, typical 6 mm would be entered, but possible that 5.8 mm might be a better choice to give some compression for a seal. If you are unsure, printing a single bracket and testing fitment and offset would be ideal. If you would like to use this with tape only you may adjust the faceThickness parameter to be thinner but wouldn't suggest going smaller than 3 mm. You will also need to remove or extrude flush the holes for the brass inserts. Also the faceWidth parameter may be adjusted to be smaller width. Would not go lower than 27 mm for this parameter. The logo can be removed if needed. If using Fusion 360 with history, step back two actions and logo will be removed. Otherwise removal of chamfer and extrude flush will be needed. thickness : panel + foam depth in mm (default 4 mm) faceThickness : depth of the face portion of hinge not including panel + foam (default 5 mm) FacePlate_width : width of facing hinge from edge of extrusion to the opposite edge. Not actual width of hinge default (34.9 mm) Taped versions use 27mm. See image below. Questions / Suggestions If you have any questions or suggestions feel free to contact me on Discord chrisrgonzales#0731