Leaderboard

I was having trouble getting my enclosure temperatures above 45C to achieve my optimum print settings. This is the solution I came up with to solve my enclosure temperature issues. I'm running a Fystec Spider v1.1, so your printer config would likely differ. I'm also using a Hartk v4.0 PCB that has an integrated chamber thermistor. I've included my settings for this as well, but you may need to change this up if you use a different thermistor for enclosure temperature readings. I hope this is helpful for someone. I couldn't find a lot of solutions out on the net that could get me up and going with a setup like this, so it was a lot of trial and error to get to this point. Let me know if you have any comments or suggestions that can help me make this thing better! How I set things up: I removed the fan from the PTC heater and inserted a 100K NTC thermistor into one of the bordering fins on the heater core. I then filled the remaining gap in the fin with thermal grease and reattached the fan. I added a thermal fuse to make sure the power would get cut if the temperatures get out of hand from a bad config or faulty piece of hardware. First I drilled a 1/8" hole next to the center ground pin, rivetted the fuse to the heater's core, and applied thermal grease between the fuse body and the heater core. I then moved the ground wire to run from the fuse rather than the tab. Once I wired this up, I ran the temperatures up past the fuse limits to verify things fail safely as expected. I then replaced the fuse after test failed as expected. I extended all of the wiring with solder connections to make sure it would be long enough reach each wire's intended destination, and capped each connection with heat shrink. I mounted the PTC heater to the printed PTC heater mount and ran the wires to the wiring compartment. I installed the Omron relay, and ran a 24v output from my controller to the relay's 5-24v input. I then routed 110v AC to the other end of the relay on the hot lead. I finished up the wiring by hooking up the 12v line for the heater fan and the heater thermistor to the controller board. (Note: my chamber thermistor was already installed on my toolhead's PCB) I updated my printer.cfg and ran a bunch of tests on the heater to make sure it was functioning properly. BOM: Electronics: - PTC Heater w/ Fan x1 - Item on Amazon - NTC 100k thermistor - Item on Amazon - 120C Thermal Fuse - Item on Amazon - Omron 5-24v Relay - Item on West3D Printed Parts: - Printed PTC Heater Mount x1 Miscellaneous: - M3x8mm SHCS x2 - M3 T-nut x2 - 18awg stranded wire ~2 meters - 22awg stranded wire ~2 meters - 1/8" Rivet x1 - Appropriate connectors for you controller board Changes to printer.cfg: ###################### ### Chamber Heater ### ###################### [heater_generic chamber_heater] heater_pin: PC8 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC2 control: watermark max_power: .5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 110 [verify_heater chamber_heater] max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 120 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 2 ########################## ### Chamber Heater Fan ### ########################## [heater_fan chamber_heater_fan] pin: PB6 max_power: 1.0 heater: chamber_heater heater_temp: 40.0 # fan will turn off below this level ############################# ### Enclosure Temperature ### ############################# [thermistor chamber_thermistor] temperature1: 25 resistance1: 10000 beta: 3950 [temperature_sensor enclosure_temp] sensor_type: chamber_thermistor sensor_pin: PC1 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 80 Macro: You can run this and immediately start your print. The print wont actually start until the specified chamber temperatures are reached. [gcode_macro CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT] gcode: {% if params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float %} {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: MIN_TEMPERATURE must be less than or equal to MAX_TEMPERATURE Use: - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")} {% elif params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} {% if params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float} {% else %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} {% endif %} {% elif params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float} {% else %} {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: invalid usage Use: - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")} {% endif %} Updates: - I added a photo of how this is wired up in the wiring compartment. The boxes with the text in the photo represent the components of the heater that are in the chamber of the printer. - I have included the macro to wait for chamber to reach temps before starting a print. - I have attached the heater mount's fusion 360 file for others to be able to easily make edits to the chamber heater mount Chamber Heater Mount v2.f3d

V2- PTFE bowden tube guide and CANBUS wire support I've made some adjustment after some feedback from the community. Changes made over V1: Added a option to have F695 bearings incorporated Enlarged the tube opening Added cable/zip tie openings Added spot for 1mm piano wire if needed. Recommended print settings: Voron print settings (4 walls, 40% infill and 5 top and bottom layers) Turn off thin walls Bridge setting: keep only bridges (watch out for bridging for cable tie holes) 0.2mm layers and 0.2mm first layer No need to adjust for ABS shrinkage Required Hardware: M3x8 Bolt and M3 T-nut M5 bolt to suit option. Optional M5 nut if you can fit it with the bearing option. V1 - PTFE bowden tube guide and CANBUS wire support This is can found inside the zip files and of the initial release Required Hardware: M3x8 Bolt and M3 T-nut M5x10 Bolt or a M5x8/12 Optional 4mm drill bit for cleaning out bowden tube path About In my 350 build the PTFE tube kept getting caught so I made this arm to keep it up. The shorter arm works better so I recommend using it instead The setup has also been used by a few user to support their CANBUS wires (zip tied to the reverse bowden) Install Drill out bowden guide with 4mm drill bit for a perfect fit (optional) Bolt mount to rear frame with M3x8 and tnut putting the lip at the top Screw arm on with M5x10 (I used a M5x8mm and it works fine) into the plastic allowing the arm to still be able to swivel

If you have a RatRig V-Core 3.1 and want to upgrade to the new Toolhead 1.0, you'll need to print the 3 STL's included in the ZIP file. I created these components because the folks at RatRig provided STL's for the V-Core 3.1 but only work with a Pinda probe setup and nothing for the Beacon probe. So, I took V-Core 4 files and modified them to work on a V-Core 3.1. You'll still need to print the belt clips and adjusters along with the CAN mount and replace the Front, Back and Duct parts with mine. These files have been modified to use the RatRig V-Core 3.1 belt system where the belts are tensioned at the toolhead versus the V-Core 4 that tensions the belts at the stepper motor mounts.

I wanted to be able to print ABS and ASA in my house without having to move my printer to a well ventilated area, so I started looking into ventilation options. I wasn't able to find anything that seemed to mount cleanly to my machine and look decent running to my window, so I designed this system for my printer. BOM: Parts to order 2.5" Hose Clamps x2 2.5" Flexible Dust Collector Hose (3ft in picture) x1 Weather Stripping (10ft in picture) M2 self-tapping screw Plastic Sheet (1.5mm-2mm) Parts to Print 60mm Fan to 2.5" Hose Adaptor x1 Hose Adaptor x1 Hose Adaptor Mount x1 One-way Valve x1 Left Link x1 Right Link x1 Center Link x? (You will need to measure your window for the proper number of links) Printing: 40% infill Supports needed 4 line walls Filament: Polymaker's Polylite ASA If you are using the stock Voron 2.4 exhaust system, you can attach the hose adaptor directly to the rear fan using the screws already holding the fan in place. All of the links snap very tightly together and may require pliers to fully seat the lock. You can also insert the one way valve into the hose adapter on the window side of the hose: Then just attach all of the other pieces according to the images below: Once you have everything hooked together your can wrap the window vent that is now sized for your window with the weather stripping to get a good seal on your window. One note, I was printing several test versions of this before I got to a full system. There are couple links you will see in the center of my image that have a smaller lip on them. I just reused these from previous test pieces so I didn't waste more plastic. Your center links should be consistent all the way across the middle section of the window vent. UPDATE: 3/9/2022 - Added a one-way valve to prevent outside air from causing a backdraft into your printer when your exhaust fan is disabled. This has made a significant impact on reducing plastic fumes in my house. After adding this, I can't smell any plastic unless the doors on the printer are open. VORON2 v2.4 - 2.5 Vaccume exhaust adapter v4.f3d

I wanted to reach ABS/ASA temperatures faster, and be able to maintain 55-60°C for those larger warp-prone prints, so I designed this chamber heater mount. If you're going to attempt this, make sure to use a temperature fuse to protect your printer (and your house) from burning down in the event of failure/over-heating. I used 2x 3mmx5mm long heatserts inserted from the front, and 3mmx12mm screws to attach the heater. 4x 3mm t-nuts and 4x 3mmx10mm screws are required for mounting the bracket. I used this 120VAC 250W heater (with 12VDC fan): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NYX5DKD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I used this SSR: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WLNHPWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I loosely followed the chamber heater post from @ahough, and this would've been way harder (nigh impossible) without their post and the comments section. Notable mention goes out to @Dousi as well, since I copied and modified their config example to use as my own. I hope the configs below help someone else along their way. ******** ******** Here is my chamber heater section within my printer.cfg file: ******** ##################################################################### # CHAMBER HEATER ##################################################################### [thermistor chamber_thermistor] #define "chamber_thermistor" characteristics temperature1: 25 resistance1: 100000 beta: 3950 [thermistor heater_thermistor] #define "heater_thermistor" characteristics temperature1: 0.0 resistance1: 32116.0 temperature2: 40.0 resistance2: 5309.0 temperature3: 80.0 resistance3: 1228.0 [temperature_sensor heater_temp] #this is the temp sensor for the 10K probe inserted in the heater core sensor_type: heater_thermistor #use temp sensor characteristics as defined in "heater_thermistor" sensor_pin: PA2 #Manta 8P temp sensor input pin. This temp probe is glued to the heater core with UV resin min_temp: -100 #set minimum temp before error/shutdown max_temp: 140 #SAFETY max heater core temperature, printer will shutdown above this temp [heater_generic chamber_heater] #setup chamber heater heater_pin: PE3 #Manta 8P heater output pin to SSR. This temp probe is mounted near the top of my chamber sensor_type: chamber_thermistor #use temp sensor characteristics as defined in "chamber_thermistor" sensor_pin: PA1 #Manta *P temp sensor input pin control: watermark #use watermark control method (on/off) max_delta: 0.1 #set the delta temp to energize/deenergize chamber heater max_power: 1.0 #set maximum power of heater 1.0 = 100% min_temp: -100 #set minimum temp before error/shutdown max_temp: 70 #SAFETY max chamber temperature, printer will shutdown above this temp pwm_cycle_time: 0.01666 #Set this to avoid room lights flickering on higher power heaters. This value works well for 60Hz power. 0.1 is 10Hz [verify_heater chamber_heater] #setup chamber heater verification parameters max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 240 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 1 [heater_fan heater_fan] #setup fan attached to back of chamber heater pin: PE4 #Manta 8P fan output pin. Jumper selected for 12V max_power: 1.0 #set maximum power of fan 1.0 = 100% heater: chamber_heater #when "chamber_heater" is ON fan will be ON heater_temp: 30 #fan will turn off below this level ##################################################################### # MACROS ##################################################################### [gcode_macro M191] gcode: {% set S = params.S | default(0) | float %} SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber_heater TARGET={S} M118 Chamber heating to {S}C M118 Waiting for chamber heating... TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="heater_generic chamber_heater" MINIMUM={S} M118 Chamber heating {S}C is done. ******** ******** I also run Ellis' bedfans, and modified bedfans.cfg, "Command overrides" section to the below: ******** ############ Command overrides ############ # Override, set fan speeds to low and start monitoring loop. [gcode_macro SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE] rename_existing: _SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE gcode: # Parameters {% set HEATER = params.HEATER|default("None") %} {% set TARGET = params.TARGET|default(0)|int %} # Vars {% set THRESHOLD = printer["gcode_macro _BEDFANVARS"].threshold|int %} {% if HEATER|lower == "extruder" %} M104 S{TARGET} {% elif HEATER|lower == "heater_bed" %} M99140 S{TARGET} {% elif HEATER|lower == "chamber_heater" %} _SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber_heater TARGET={TARGET} {% else %} {action_respond_info("Heater %s not supported" % HEATER)} {% endif %} # Set fans to low if heater_bed temp is requested above threshold temp, and kick off monitoring loop. {% if HEATER|lower == "heater_bed" %} {% if TARGET >= THRESHOLD %} BEDFANSSLOW UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=bedfanloop DURATION=1 {% else %} BEDFANSOFF UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=bedfanloop DURATION=0 # Cancel bed fan loop if it's running {% endif %} {% endif %} ******** ******** II then modified my PRINT_START macro to include the chamber heater stuff as seen below: ******** [gcode_macro PRINT_START] # Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - PLEASE CUSTOMISE THE SCRIPT gcode: EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE BED_MESH_PROFILE load=default # Load variables {% set bed_temp = params.BED|default(60)|int %} {% set extruder_temp = params.EXTRUDER|default(230)|int %} {% set CHAMBER_TEMP = params.CHAMBER|default(20)|float %} M104 S150 #start nozzle heating, keep below oozing temp M117 Extruder Heating... M140 S{bed_temp} #set bed temp to "bed_temp" and move on M117 Bed Heating.... M190 S{bed_temp} #allow bed to get up to temperature M117 Heating Chamber... M191 S{CHAMBER_TEMP} G90 #Use absolute coordinates M117 Homing... G28 M117 Adjusting Z Tilt... Z_TILT_ADJUST G28 M117 Calibrating Bed Mesh... BED_MESH_CALIBRATE M117 Waiting for Extruder to Reach Printing Temperature... M109 S{extruder_temp} G92 E0 #Reset exruder M117 Purging Filament... ADAPTIVE_PURGE M117 ******** ******** I use CURA and this is my Start Gcode as defined within Cura: ******** ;Nozzle diameter = {machine_nozzle_size} ;Filament type = {material_type} ;Filament name = {material_name} M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate M117 PRINT_START EXTRUDER={material_print_temperature_layer_0} BED={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} CHAMBER={build_volume_temperature}

This simple mod will give you the ability to add 4010 or 4020 fans to your AB drive motors on your Voron 2.4 Additionally you can use generic 3950 NTC for temperature controlling the fans if you have enough pin on your controller board. I've designed my own controller board and I considered 5 NTCs so I could easily adapt to this mod. Why I made this mod? Personally I like to keep my motors temperature around 55-60°C for this purpose I needed active cooling, Based on tests using a high speed fan at PWM around 50% is enough to keep my motors cool while keeping fan noise to minimum. So at maximum 50% pwm for fans they are silent enough not to hear them and sufficient enough to cool motors properly. What you will need for each motor: 2 M3x5x4 Threaded instert 1 AB Drive Fan for Voron 2.4.step 2 screws are the height of your fan + 5mm extra (for 4010 fans 3x15mm, for 4020 3x25mm. Best use BHCS). 2 screw 5mm longer than your motor screw File are super easy to print and super easy to adapt. You'll need one fan holder per motor and one NTC holder for each NTC. Print with default voron settings and no support. Installation: First put 2 inserts into their designated holes in motor holder in opposite diagonals (bigger holes). Then remove 2 diagonals screws from your motor. Preferably the one that has no screws on top side and it's diagonal one. Measure your motor screws with a ruler or caliper and use 5mm longer screws to attach motor holder to your motor. Now you can use 2 screws 5mm longer than your fan height to attach your fan to motor fan holder using insert you added earlier Optionally you use ziptie and heatsink compound to attach a NTC to the body of your motor for temperature control. 200x3mm ziptie must be sufficient for this purpose. "AB Motor Thermistors Holder.stl" are for holding thermistor in place. Here is the klipper config for controlling each fan separately based on their temperature: #-----A MOTOR FAN---# [temperature_fan motor_a] pin: PB10 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC3 kick_start_time: 0.5 off_below: 0.1 max_power: 0.5 min_speed: 0 shutdown_speed: 0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 55 control: pid pid_kp: 1.0 pid_ki: 0.5 pid_kd: 2.0 #-----B MOTOR FAN---# [temperature_fan motor_b] pin: PB12 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC1 kick_start_time: 0.5 off_below: 0.1 max_power: 0.5 min_speed: 0 shutdown_speed: 0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 55 control: pid pid_kp: 1.0 pid_ki: 0.5 pid_kd: 2.0 Don't forget to change Fan and NTC pins based on your own board. If you want to use simple control without ntcs use this code instead: [output_pin ab_fan] pin: PB1 pwm:true shutdown_value: 0 value:1.0 cycle_time: 0.01 kick_start_time: 0.5 Don't forget to change Fan pins based on your board. Additionally if you want you can use only one ntc for one motor and control both fans based on NTC: #-----AB MOTOR FAN---# [temperature_fan ab_motors] pin: PB10 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC3 kick_start_time: 0.5 off_below: 0.1 max_power: 0.5 min_speed: 0 shutdown_speed: 0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 55 control: pid pid_kp: 1.0 pid_ki: 0.5 pid_kd: 2.0 Don't forget to change Fan and NTC pins based on your own board. if you are using Feel free to express your opinion about this mod, edit it or use it however you want

Printhead | Amended Voron Tap + Rapid + Orbiter 2.0 + EBB36 Using 2x: 4010 radial fan + 3010 fan.

I have made modifications to use M3 DIN7380 screws. Much less random than if you use filament as pins.

I really liked these panel locks, they look very pretty and have less moving parts than panel clips. My Formbot kit came with unusual acrylic panel thickness of 2.5, so adding a sealing foam of 3mm, my total depth should be 5.5. I've also increased the horizontal tolerance between knobs and main body. I've also uploaded the .step and .f3d files, so you can modify those for your thickness through changing parameters.

A proper filter box for using Roomba 800/900 series HEPA filter in your Voron 2.4 Exhaust. Unlike the other HEPA box posted here, this one fits the original exhaust housing and should use less material. Print with Filter insert side on bed with support on build plate only. To install it in the exhaust box, insert it at 90C angle and rotate it as you insert (last pic). The last push to lock it in place might require you to push from inside the printer. You might have to temporarely remove the fan for installation!

Voron0 1515 T-Nut It is a great help during installation to prevent the nuts from moving. During the construction of Voron0, it comes in very handy with the screws of MidPanel, TopHat, BedMount. hardware: M3 Square Nuts from Aliexpress (5.5mm x 5.5mm x 2mm) (Recommended!) or M3 hex nuts. The hex nut is too high, it is difficult to print because only one or two layers get under the nut. (depending on the frame) But it also works. The MakerBeam version is lower than the LDO version. print settings: layer height: 0.2mm

I wanted a more accessible door-closing mechanism for my glass doors, which provides some pressure to seal the door. It uses a simple half-helix. You might have to amend the height for your specific panel thickness.

Camera Mount | Pi Camera with night-vision

LoudOwl aka Stabby This is alternative part cooling fan solution which uses dual 5015 fan setup for Afterburner Toolhead. Replaces original parts that house 4020 fan or any other similar type of mod. This mod is more of situational add on for PLA or similar type filaments which might require a lot of cooling (or printing at super high speeds). It is not constant solution as it increases gantry weight. Hardware 2x 5015 24v fans 1x M3x20 SCHS (DIN912) Printing There are two sets of STLs. One with inbuild supports and one without (for those who trust their slicers autosupports). Tested with recommended settings for Voron parts: 4 perimeters, 5 tops/bottoms, 40% infill. Though it is possible to use less plastic to reduce weight of plastic parts: 3 perimeters, 3 tops bottoms, 15-25% infill. Both versions of STL were tested by printing and assembling !!! Assembly First print out