Leaderboard

I am just now seeing this, much appreciated. going to print now and i will let you know how it works

I will save your first question for last.. 2. I never designed a backplate to fit this onto a Prusa MK3 but it would be a fun exercise. To get the extruder motor above the LM8UU bearings, you would need to raise the nozzle up by at least 10mm and I think it would help to switch the double bearings to the bottom so that you could make the top section more narrow. (yes, I already had a mockup of the MK3s toolhead in Blender ) 3. If you would like quick hotend swaps, the Bambu hotend is the only one that could be removed (by removing two screws from the side) without first removing the extruder. The rest of the compatible hotends are held on by screws from above or behind the core piece. 4. If you are looking for high flow on a budget, I have heard that the Dragon Ace hotend is pretty good. I have a CHC TD6S on my Trident and can print at up to 200mm/sec with it. The Bambu hotend is quite respectable as well as cost friendly and would allow you to remove/swap it quicker. The Mini Stealth cannot fit a V6 style hotend with the groove mount. That style is just too tall. 1. Most of the .stl files you would need are in the Sherpa Mini folder under the main Extruders folder. You would need to pick the core piece that fits your choice of hotend. The shroud would probably use a 3010 hotend fan under the probe_left or right folder you would use the first option unless you wanted to use a Knomi display on your toolhead. If you can fit the Pinda to the Prusa-style backplate then you could use a standard shroud You would need the motor bridge and PCB mount for the EBB36 as well as the cable door The Common Parts folder has the rest of the components you would need such as: the Pinda side mount bracket the blower air guide x2 and the gluing tool the status LED carrier and diffuser you can also use the white-only LEDs by Timmit if you don't have RGB control for the NeoPixel LEDs.