Hotend/duct not moving smoothly X axis (left to right)

[Buurman]

Hi,

I have two Vorons, slightly different but both Formbot kits, my first two Voron builds.
One Voron make a bit more noise than the other, and I am starting to investigate why.....

I switched out motors, since they were a slightly newer model on the second voron, but that didnt change the situation.

I feel that on the silent Voron, the hotend is moving easier and without difference in fraction.

On the "loud" Voron I feel differences in fraction, not mechanical, but like motor resistance, but not constant, like every 7cm it gets a little more resistance, that you need to push through, and then it start over again. This is not the rail, I removed the belts, and without belts its smooth as a baby butt  (I can say that as a daddy, I hope)
It does this with motor wires off, since its never good to move your axis (faster) with wires connected.

Anyone having a idea where this might come from? nothing is loose, nothing seems out of center...

Things I may check still:

• are the belts the exact same length (for XY), they look the same, but need to fully take them out to check. (and can this cause this?)

Anything else.. dont know.. again, motors swapped already... belts double checked...

[Simon2.4]

50 minutes ago, Buurman said:

In current XY joints I will test several replacements for the M5 bolt, 2 different pins, and maybe Carbon rod.

And then on newely printed PIN XY Joints, I will test Stainless pins AND carbon rods.

If you want inspiration for your hardware options:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/617351435.html

[Buurman]

34 minutes ago, Simon2.4 said:

Those do look sweet, however, IMO alot of the Voron's "personality" comes from it's printed parts. It's esthetics of course and very personal, how it their weight compared to the printed parts @116gr a pair ? This, for me, would be the biggest factor to consider. Their price is not too bad considering this is billet machined.

I will try to weight them, I am printing them right now for pin version. 

I like the CNC ones absolutely, but, still, how would you use end stops?

[Simon2.4]

1 minute ago, Buurman said:

I will try to weight them, I am printing them right now for pin version. 

I like the CNC ones absolutely, but, still, how would you use end stops?

I'd fire up fusion and figure something out... I didn't consider that  

I think you are doing the right thing by printing anyways.

[claudermilk]

Have you considered a simple solution of swapping out those toothed idlers with a bearing stack? In my build I only used bearing stacks as suggested by Nero. My printer moves smooth as a freshly-cleaned baby's butt (I confidently say as a dad). It's something simple and cheap to try, and I assume you have some spare 695 bearings and 1mm shims on hand.

On the machined aluminum parts, every time they are brought up on Nero's stream or on the Discord they are not received well. He points out the design assumes the properties of ABS. Like some of the flexibility for example. I can attest to the value of that flexibility if you accidentally go Z negative China--it can save your printer. And in this particular case it seems like an expensive, involved solution for probably a simple, cheap problem. Just my thoughts.

[Buurman]

3 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

considered a simple solution of swapping out those toothed idlers with a bearing stack? I

I did see very often, but I thought maybe it was Trident pictures or so, often I see indeed no tooth pulley used... 

Thanks for this, I will consider for sure! 

[claudermilk]

Remember that the Trident and V2.4 motion systems are almost the same. Trident has that same exact layout, just some minor changes to the printed part to mount. I used bearing stacks in those locations and they have run flawlessly for nearly 500 hours of printing so far. Oh, one thing that Nero has mentioned a few times for his reasoning is to take a look at the roller bearing size in the bore--the 695 is much larger than the tiny ones in those toothed idlers.

[Buurman]

Correct point, the F695s are 15mm and the T20's are 13mm but it seemes there is space for this, at least on the XY fronts where I currently have the T20s.

[Buurman]

7 hours ago, Simon2.4 said:

If you want inspiration for your hardware options:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/617351435.html

oooh, nice, now m5 also  but most important, a carbon Stealtburner, or maybe aluminium

 

146.3 grams

Little shorter bolts, didnt have the M5 40 anymore with round head..used 30's.

 

Edited August 2, 2022 by Buurman

[Simon2.4]

39 minutes ago, Buurman said:

oooh, nice, now m5 also  but most important, a carbon Stealtburner, or maybe aluminium

146.3 grams

Little shorter bolts, didnt have the M5 40 anymore with round head..used 30's.

So the aluminium one is lighter !  well well

as for m5 this guy has it all

https://chinatiscrew.aliexpress.com/store/314699

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Buurman said:

But I am printing them. going for it... 

@Buurman Good to hear - from what I have read, they do make a big difference. Am looking forward to your assessment, then I would probably follow suit.

[smirk]

27 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

then I would probably follow suit.

 @Buurman luring you in with all that moddy goodness. These cult leaders often target [self-confessed] addicts....

 

GOM vs Cult of Mods?

[Buurman]

10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Am looking forward to your assessment, then I would probably follow suit

I have to wait for parts, but I will surely share my experience! 

Church of Mods?  Seems like we can lure in more mod sensitive souls  

[Buurman]

12 hours ago, Simon2.4 said:

as for m5 this guy has it all

https://chinatiscrew.aliexpress.com/store/314699

I think I wish I havent seen that link.... .. or wait, no, thats my wife who thinks that...

[claudermilk]

14 hours ago, smirk said:

 @Buurman luring you in with all that moddy goodness. These cult leaders often target [self-confessed] addicts....

GOM vs Cult of Mods?

GOM & CoM doesn't have to be mutually exclusive...