Klicky Probe on Voron 2

[Buurman]

I am asking here and hope someone can help, running into some challenges with the Klicky mod.

First I had some harder time finding the config files that I needed, but I found those, and easy way there to install them:
https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Klipper_macros

3 things remaining:

1. wiring the probe I ignored the red wire 24V+ and only used the GRD (black) and SIGNAL (PB7), I tested functionality with a multimeter on the plug. Yet in Mainsail it never changes state whatever I do, it stays OPEN or TRIGGERED depending on the setting !PB7 or normal PB7 I set in printer.cfg see next point.
2. On a Octopus board how do I set the printer.cfg part for the probe setting? Currently I have it set: !PB7
3. I cant seem to "reach" the klippy mount, its on 65.5/350 (home is 350/350) but 350 doesnt seem far enough to reach the mount fully. Yet the enstop (physical) is triggered at that point, looks like I almost need another few mm to make it, at least 5mm, I have the space it seems, but endstop is triggered already.

 

Thanks on any of the comments I get, its appreciated! 

[SteveThatcher]

8 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

24V?!  No, leave out that one. It's signal and ground that you need!

actually, the PB7 "probe" input (J40) on a Octopus (according to BTT's V1.1 schematic) is an opto-isolator with a forward current of 20ma typical. You have to run a voltage through the switch in order to turn the led on in the opto-isolator. At 24 volts the current would be 23.8ma. The "signal" can be anywhere from 24vdc down to 5 volts. Note: this is the only input on the Octopus that has such an input circuit. All the rest would fry the board. The endstop switches all are direct connect to the processor through 100 ohm resistors. The endstop connectors have both 3.3v and ground for switch connections when needed.

The "probe" input connector has 12, 24, and 5 volts available along with signal and ground.

[Buurman]

I realise now, point 3 may be a Stealthburner thing, that the klicky part on the hotend part is moved a little forward, compared to original hotend duct, and the mount on the frame just needs to be a little longer?

[Buurman]

And, I see its custom to answer your own questions here ..  hahaha! 

https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/825356024130175026/918947621006106696

if you're using the klicky with PB7 connect one end to 24V and the other end to PB7 and set the pin to pin: ~!PB7

I will try this.

 

[claudermilk]

24V?!  No, leave out that one. It's signal and ground that you need!

[Buurman]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

24V?!  No, leave out that one. It's signal and ground that you need!

No, it works now, with the 24V and signal pin. CONFIRMED. 

Solved the reaching the klicky probe by adding a few washers in between the mount and the end that holds the magnet/probe itself.

I just needed 2mm in the end, it mounts and unmounts perfectly now.

[Buurman]

1 hour ago, SteveThatcher said:

actually, the PB7 "probe" input (J40) on a Octopus (according to BTT's V1.1 schematic) is an opto-isolator with a forward current of 20ma typical. You have to run a voltage through the switch in order to turn the led on in the opto-isolator. At 24 volts the current would be 23.8ma. The "signal" can be anywhere from 24vdc down to 5 volts. Note: this is the only input on the Octopus that has such an input circuit. All the rest would fry the board. The endstop switches all are direct connect to the processor through 100 ohm resistors. The endstop connectors have both 3.3v and ground for switch connections when needed.

The "probe" input connector has 12, 24, and 5 volts available along with signal and ground.

I noticed I have it set on 5V, not 24, I thought the jumper was on "default 24V" but its on 5V. (from factory)

[SteveThatcher]

4 hours ago, Buurman said:

I noticed I have it set on 5V, not 24, I thought the jumper was on "default 24V" but its on 5V. (from factory)

5 volt is fine. BTT did a good job on the probe interface. I believe they did the circuit due to the inductive probe requirements requiring a higher voltage, so you don't need the BAT85 diode with their board.

Edited May 18, 2022 by SteveThatcher

[claudermilk]

In theory they were supposed to, but in practice it seems something didn't work. When initially building my Trident I ultimately had to follow the wiring as shown on the Voron docs page with the 24V and ground on the J40 connector and the signal with BAT85 on DIAG7 (J34), on the PG15 pin. Using the PB7 pin didn't trigger. Now that I'm using Klicky I can probably rework to just use PG15 and ground on the DIAG7 endstop port--I just haven't gotten around to it.

All that said, if yours is working, then go with it.

[SteveThatcher]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

In theory they were supposed to, but in practice it seems something didn't work. When initially building my Trident I ultimately had to follow the wiring as shown on the Voron docs page with the 24V and ground on the J40 connector and the signal with BAT85 on DIAG7 (J34), on the PG15 pin. Using the PB7 pin didn't trigger. Now that I'm using Klicky I can probably rework to just use PG15 and ground on the DIAG7 endstop port--I just haven't gotten around to it.

All that said, if yours is working, then go with it.

almost sounds like the inductive probe wasn't passing enough current to trigger the PB7 input when it was "on". I haven't used the inductive probe or do I intend to, so can't answer what could have been wrong. Thanks for the info regarding your experience.

[claudermilk]

Double checking my config,  My signal *is* on PG15. Basically, I still have the wiring as shown in the current docs page image, including the BAT85 diode. I do have a commented out ^PB7 line. I believe the "^" is to activate a voltage pullup. I need to finish some print projects and play with the wiring & printer config to see if I can clean that up a bit. Also to try and understand the setup better.

[zGHLooL]

On 5/18/2022 at 6:49 PM, Buurman said:

No, it works now, with the 24V and signal pin. CONFIRMED. 

Solved the reaching the klicky probe by adding a few washers in between the mount and the end that holds the magnet/probe itself.

I just needed 2mm in the end, it mounts and unmounts perfectly now.

Hello Buurman

I'm facing the same problem , and I'm a nooby when it comes to electronic , can you take a picture of the probe connector that you did please it will help me a lot .

thanks