Voron 0.1 to v0.2 upgrade

[mvdveer]

When I joined the forum, it was like many others - looking for mods as I read about Voron's and CoreXY printers and had no idea what all the fuss was about. (Google brought me here). I started self sourcing parts for a 2.4. (2020 - 2021 Covid Remember? Melbourne had the longest lockdown in the world and I had to find something to do!)  At that stage it was 2.4r1. Whilst looking on Aliexpresss, I thought that I could save some postage and self sourced parts for a Switchwire and a Voron 0.1

The kits arrived, printed all the parts for the 2.4r1 and was about to start when the v2.4r2 was announced. I was eager to start , so it had to be the Voron 0.1 - I wasn't going to build an outdated printer!  The Voron 0 was the right choice for a first build and this was also the advice from some knowledgeable people on this forum as it will be a less complicated build.

Thus in April 2022, I started the journey of building my first Voron.

That was a fun build and boy was I proud when that was done. The printer has served me well. Just about no modifications!  The printed parts, looking back was awful, and I recall a user asking what was up with the parts. S/he talked about maybe it was a 5mm brim roughly broken off. Hell at that stage I didn't even know what a brim was. . To be honest, they were printed on an Ender 3 pro v2 in an Ikea lack enclosure, using the slicer settings (Simplify3d) without any tuning as I had no idea - just used the default profiles)

But - I must say - don't know how the printer functioned - the parts were bad - some layer shifting, layer adhesion issues, heat problems, z-banding - you name it. (at the time I built the V0, I wasn not even aware of these terms, let alone what they mean)

As the printer is kept in the garage, turning out prints, the beige filament I used became "dirty and discoloured" over the years. (Dust impregnated in the parts that were exposed)

And, the V0.2 has been released.  I ordered the upgrade parts, and there have been in storage for over 6 months now. (The CASA enclosure for the Milo 1.5 caused me all sorts of headaches due to size of the thing. The CASA build will soon go ahead, as I now have the space to assemble it - more in the Milo thread)

Upgrade Kit: (not mush in it - some fasteners, tophat extrusions and panels, deck panel and some fans) 

         

Well here is what V0.1632 looks like at present:

Going to change the color scheme as well. (don't worry @claudermilk, the blue stays ) New parts printed.

Upgrades planned (so far):

• Kiragami bed
• Mellow Fly SHT36 Canbus with UTOC1 interface (I have a BTT EBB Can v1.2 and a U2c 1.1 - may use that- we'll see) Currently has a Bigtreetech SKR E3mini v3 and klipper expander board. (Still thinking of changing this to an octopus pro and eliminating the klipper expander board - SPACE?)
• New Panels all around
• Bento Mini instead of the Nevermore
• Dragon burner toolhead with Galileo2 SA and Voreon Revo hotend.  (Printed and Galileo2 SA assembled)

• FT EMS (Electronic management System) by @FizzyTech. Thanks @TitusADuxass for the post alerting me to this. Might take care of this: (Can't believe I actually left it that untidy )

And then maybe:

• Zeroclick probe for meshing (Really not needed on the V0, but why not?)
• ZeroPanels for quick release of panels (Again not needed as I hardly ever removed the panels on the V0 since building it)

Plan is to strip the Vo.1 down completely and rebuild a V0.2 with the existing and upgraded parts. Here we go:

 

 

 

 

 

[MrSprinklz]

I did the same to my V0 when the V0.2 upgrade kit came out. Did you get an early upgrade kit with 80mm tophat (like I did) or the now standard 100mm tophat?

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, MrSprinklz said:

I did the same to my V0 when the V0.2 upgrade kit came out. Did you get an early upgrade kit with 80mm tophat (like I did) or the now standard 100mm tophat?

Just measured it and it seems to be 100mm. Did not even know there were two variants. 

[mvdveer]

Printer is stripped and in parts in various containers. What I have noticed is how much the color of the extrusions have faded over time. 

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 1 to 36 FRAME:

Used the old frame components and assembly was quick and easy. took the time to clean the linear rails again and regrease.

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 36 to 46 FRAME - BED ASSEMBLY:  Skipped as the Kiragami bed was installed. 

Most of the parts were obtained form LDO documentation with a reference to their GitHub. However I did a frame brace mod to stiffen the bed.  There is also a nice video tutorial of the install.

    

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 47 to 62  FRAME - Z-Axis: 

The endstop for Z has been moved to the bottom of the left Z-linnear rail, otherwise installation is pretty much similar to the V0.1

Don't forget to pre-load those m3 nuts. For mounting the bottom chain link there are two options. As per the manual to the bottom of the right Z-linnear rail, or the LDO mod - to a modified skirt that can be found in their GitHub repository. (Don't know if this is only for the V0.1 or if it will fit the V0.2).  When mounting to the frame, the nodropnuts mod cannot be used here.

Starting to take shape again:

Let's load all the nuts and close the frame! Using the nodropnuts mod. Makes it so easy.

Next: AB drives

 

 

[TitusADuxass]

I've just got my v0 working as it should and now I'm doing this upgrade - GitHub - zruncho3d/BoxZero: Simplify, strengthen, and seal your V0/T0/ X0 by ditching the tophat and moving to a full-box frame.

 

[mvdveer]

16 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I've just got my v0 working as it should and now I'm doing this upgrade - GitHub - zruncho3d/BoxZero: Simplify, strengthen, and seal your V0/T0/ X0 by ditching the tophat and moving to a full-box frame.

I built one of those with the "trizero mod" Also has a look at his ZeroPanels - great mod that allows you to lift the top panel. 

 

[TitusADuxass]

45 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

 Also has a look at his ZeroPanels - great mod that allows you to lift the top panel. 

I'm warming to the ZeroPanels - I don't really need them but why should that stop me?

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

I don't really need them but why should that stop me?

Exactly

 

[MrSprinklz]

I like the Zero Panels, only had issues with the Zero Panel door hinges coming off the panel, but that was likely my fault. I swapped to a mini fridge door, but had to get a custom height because of the aforementioned 80mm tophat. I might swap Zero Panels to the twist lock style from the Micron R1 Beta eventually

[mvdveer]

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 68 - 81 AB Drives:

Not much of a difference from the V0.1. Assembly pretty straight forward as long as you follow the manual

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 83 - 89 AB Idlers:

I noticed a different design, but assembly much the same.

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 91 - 100 Z-Axis:

As the anti backlash nut needs a square edge - the Dremel tool had to be put to work. 

Will have to reprint the feet as they cracked when I inserted the m2x10 self tapping screws. If you look carefully, you will notice this in the photos.

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 107 - 112 Z-Axis Lead screw:

Much the same process as the Vo.1 build

Next X-Axis

[MrSprinklz]

for the idlers there is a nice mod for tool free use: https://www.printables.com/model/533483-voron-02-lazycams-tool-free-locking-idlers-models-

6 hours ago, mvdveer said:

 

Will have to reprint the feet as they cracked when I inserted the m2x10 self tapping screws.

Every. Single. Time.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, MrSprinklz said:

for the idlers there is a nice mod for tool free use: https://www.printables.com/model/533483-voron-02-lazycams-tool-free-locking-idlers-models-

Every. Single. Time.

Going to use M2x8's or even M2x6's as these are non functional - just aesthetic.

Thanks for the MOD - a must have by the looks of it. Printing it now

[mvdveer]

Printed the "lazycams" mod and installed. Now this I like - Thanks @MrSprinklz

Open                                                                       Closed

                        

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 114 - 129 X-Axis

Regreased the X liner rail and installed. Must have been tired or just plain stupid. Spot the mistake!

Realised I installed the X-Rail back to front when I scratched my head as to why this belt path seems so odd 

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 131 - 142 AB Belts

Rectified the incorrectly installed X-Carriage, racked the gantry yet again and and ran new belts

Scratched my head to try and find the description in the manual for mounting the X- and Y-endstop switches. Turns out the new Voron design is for sensorless (autocorrect says senseless  ) homing. Unless I change controller boards, this won't be an option. Found a X-carriage with endstop switch build in as well as a mod for a Y-Endstop switch.

Mounted and tensioned the belts.

               

You probably spotted the toolhead lying there - more later....

Next The Bed

[mvdveer]

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 143 - 154 Print Bed

Removed the old magnetic sheet from the Printed and fitted a new sheet. The old one was a bit ragged.

Realised the bed dis not have a thermal protection fuse and added this. However when I printed the kirigami bed support, I printed the version with only two wago mounts. (there is one for three) Will be doing that  at some point.

             

I like the way the new Z-Axis cable chain is mounted - so much neater,

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 156 - 189 Print Head

Skipped.

As I am having such great prints with the Galileo2SA (and I have a similar color scheme to the one on the GitHub page)  and Dragonburner (version8 now)  combo on the Micron 180, I decided to go this route instead. Still struggled with this damn Neopixel mount  - broke about 4 mounts before finally getting it done. (Rheumatoid joints not good for such delicate work) 

As you can probably see, I am going to mount a Canbus board. I have about 3 EBB36 boards (originally bought them for the three V0's, until I became Mellow. But let's give it a go)

Next: Electronics and wiring

 

[mvdveer]

Spend most of the afternoon fitting and wiring up the BTT EBB36 canbus board. (Going to leave the flashing till last - once the build is done)

                

Is all done and happy with the result - starting to look like a printer again.

 

 

[mvdveer]

V0.2 Build Manual Pages 190 - 200 Electronics

Well, I think I have the layout sorted. Must say I do like the FT EMS system - so much neater, easier and so many options.

Back Panel:

Bottom Panel:

Those loose wires needs to be routed to the electronics and connected. A task for another day. Bed Time.

Next Electronics and Wiring

 

[Penatr8tor]

Looking really really nice @mvdveer

Love that blue color. What filament? I didn't see any mention of what you're using.

On 8/23/2024 at 7:05 AM, mvdveer said:

Will have to reprint the feet as they cracked when I inserted the m2x10 self tapping screws.

More like self-cracking screws. 

[Penatr8tor]

7 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Spend most of the afternoon fitting and wiring up the BTT EBB36 canbus board. (Going to leave the flashing till last - once the build is done)

Really interested in your opinion on flashing and setting up the BTT CAN board once you get it flashed and running. 

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Love that blue color. What filament?

E-Sun Light Blue ABS+

 

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

eally interested in your opinion on flashing and setting up the BTT CAN board once you get it flashed and running

Hopefully I'll get to that today - will keep you up to date

[TitusADuxass]

17 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Really interested in your opinion on flashing and setting up the BTT CAN board once you get it flashed and running. 

I use these in both my vorons. They are easy to flash and install. Like @mvdveer I've gone with a Mellow for my 2.4 upgrade, which I beginning to regret as the EBB36 is so good

I did have issues with the PT1000 DIP switches being a bit fragile. I went back to using the normal 2 pin connector (TH0).

Watch out when you plug in the CAN connector, it will go in, and connect, in the incorrect orientation - the EBB36s don't like that very much (ask me how I know).

[TitusADuxass]

8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

E-Sun Light Blue ABS+

Hopefully I'll get to that today - will keep you up to date

That's the same filament that I used for my v0.1. Lots of people gave me grief (on Farcebook) saying that it's a sh1t filament that suffers from creep and poor layer adhesion. 

I printed it hot (275/110) and slow and have had no issues.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Watch out when you plug in the CAN connector, it will go in and connector in the incorrect orientation - the EBB36s don't like that very much (ask me how I know).

Now I know as well !   Fried a board - but then I have spares. The EBB36 flashed without an issue once I got the can0 network up and running.

Had to ditch the U2C as I just could not get it recognised. Attached a Mellow UTOC 1 and whalela - Can0 up and running first time. 

Flashed the EBB36 first time around and printer is responding with no magic smoke.

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

 I've gone with a Mellow for my 2.4 upgrade, which I beginning to regret as the EBB36 is so good

You won't regret it - Great boards - just crimping those connectors are a pain - they are small. After my install experience with the U2C and EBB36, I think I'll stick to the Mellow boards - I just have more faith in them and much easier to set up. (All my Vorons are running Mellow boards, as well as the VZBot - and no issues what's so ever. This V0 is the first attempt at a SBB36 (v1.2) - just because I had three of them lying around. 

@Penatr8tor - My preference is still the Mellow products. AS I said, just could not get the U2C to talk to the Pi

 

[mvdveer]

 

Pin configurations all done, Endstops, heaters and neopixels tested. I initially had an incorrect pin defined (used the V1.0 pinout diagram and not the v1.2 - Blew my heater thermistor). Will replace that tomorrow and then continue the testing when I have time. Want to get the printer up and running before enclosing it and fixing the tophat.

Played around with the two sets of neo pixels. On most actions they will have similar colours, except when the printer is heating and doing a heat soak.  The bed LED will be green and the nozzle red - so by glancing at the printer, I can determine where it is in the start macro sequence.

Normal Boot state                                                   Nozzle Heating                                                                 Printing

                                      

Interesting trying this EBB36 - End result - one fried board (EBB36) and one fried Thermistor. I'll stay mellow thank you! 

[TitusADuxass]

2 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Pin configurations all done, Endstops, heaters and neopixels tested. I initially had an incorrect pin defined (used the V1.0 pinout diagram and not the v1.2 - Blew my heater thermistor). Will replace that tomorrow and then continue the testing when I have time. Want to get the printer up and running before enclosing it and fixing the tophat.

Played around with the two sets of neo pixels. On most actions they will have similar colours, except when the printer is heating and doing a heat soak.  The bed LED will be green and the nozzle red - so by glancing at the printer, I can determine where it is in the start macro sequence.

Normal Boot state                                                   Nozzle Heating                                                                 Printing

                                      

Interesting trying this EBB36 - End result - one fried board (EBB36) and one fried Thermistor. I'll stay mellow thank you! 

The Neopixel malarky is something that I've got to play with, at the moment I just have the nozzle 2 white and the logo off. But I quite like the idea of sequence indication. I have the neopixel.cfg already included. Is it just a case copying the relevant macro line into the relevant line of the print start macro?

[mvdveer]

9 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

Is it just a case copying the relevant macro line into the relevant line of the print start macro?

Yes it is. So before your homing sequence you will add:

STATUS_HOMING

before QGL "STATUS_BUSY" before meshing "STATUS_MESHING" and when print starts at end of all routines "STATUS_PRINTING", etc

I think I posted my PRINT_START macro in the post from sleepster217 if you want to have a look