v2.4r2 Project 7000: Voron 2.4 350mm - Magic Phoenix (MPX) Canbus/Tap Kit

[indi8six]

The Machine

Background / The Kit:

Having finished my first Voron (build log here), it seems I have caught the bug! The main goal of that printer was to use the 0.2r1 to print all parts for a 2.4r2. The main goal of this printer is to aim for Serial #7000!

I researched for a few days, self-source vs kits and decided that a kit would be the best value for my own needs. Even adding on the options I wanted to a kit was cheaper than self-source for me. Although I really loved my Formbot 0.2r1 kit, I settled with a fully comprehensive kit from Magic Phoenix (MPX) as it ticked a few more boxes 1) Canbus and TAP included - plus all the boards and hardware, 2) Cheaper - living in a post-Brexit UK meant a huge bill for import tax. MPX had an option of slow shipping with taxes included. 3) Support - before I bought the kit, I was in regular contact with the owner on the official Voron Discord and their Discord to make sure my needs were met. I already had a 120mm V0.2, a 225mm CR6-SE so 350mm was the right size for me.

[V0.2r1 on top of shipping box]

Additional items I bought:

• Galileo 2 kit from OneTwo3d
• Hardware for THE FILTER
• Hartk hardware - Pins mod and GE5C bearings
• BTT Octopus Pro 1.1 (Whilst the MPX kit contains M8Pv2+CB1, I wanted to have separate MCU and RPI 3b+ for better hardware / software support)
• BTT PI TFT50
• BTT KNOMI 2
• Meanwell PSU RS-25-5 (To power the RPI)
• CNC Metal Tap (Vitalli design)
• Rainbow BARF LEDs
• Klipper Expander
• Aukey PC-LM1E USB webcam
• Stainless Steel MGN12 linear rail with medium pre-load

 

 

Edited April 21 by indi8six

[indi8six]

 

The Build

• Magic Phoenix Voron 2.4r2 CBT Kit - https://magicphoenix.xyz/product/voron-v2-4-customized-kit/
• Raspberry Pi 3B+ - https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b-plus/
• Phaetus Rapido 2 with 0.4mm CHT Nozzle - https://www.phaetus.com/products/rapido2
• Vitalli-designed CNC Tap - https://github.com/Vitalii3D-xyz/MetalTap
• Galileo 2 Extruder - https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/galileo2_extruder
• BTT Octopus Pro F429 - https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-octopus-pro-v1-0-chip-f446
• BTT PI TFT50 screen v2.1 - https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-pi-tft43-v2-0-screen-board
• BTT KNOMI2 toolhead screen - https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-knomi-v1-0
• BTT Smart Filament Sensor v2 - https://biqu.equipment/products/btt-sfs-v2-0-smart-filament-sensor
• BTT Relay v1.2 - https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-reply-v1-2-automatic-shutdown-module-after-printing
• Klipper Expander - https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Klipper_Expander
• THE FILTER carbon filter - https://github.com/nateb16/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/nateb16/THE_FILTER
• VEFACH carbon/HEPA exhaust - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/KevinAkaSam/VEFACH
• Steel Y Extrusions Backers - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/whoppingpochard/extrusion_backers
• AUKEY Gantry Camera - https://www.printables.com/model/404254-2020-alu-extrusion-webcam-mount-for-aukey-1080p-we
• Disco Stick LEDs lighting - https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Daylight
• Skirt Lighting - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001112147083.html
• Beefy Z-Idlers (BZI) - https://github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main
• Beefy Front Idlers (BFI) - https://github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main
• Hartk Pins Mod - https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2-Trident/2.4/Voron2.4_Trident_Pins_Mod
• Hartk GE5C Mod - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/hartk1213/Voron2.4_GE5C
• Z-Chain Under Gantry - https://www.printables.com/model/279739-voron-can-bus-z-chain-move
• Umbilical via exhaust - https://www.printables.com/model/358607-voron-v2-exhaust-fan-grill-with-bowdenpg7thermisto
• SB2209 27mm Fan Cover - https://www.printables.com/model/680592-galileo-2-2507-fan-cover-for-sb2209sb2240
• Rainbow BARF LED - https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/LEDs/Rainbow_Barf_Logo_LED
• Hex Skirts - https://www.printables.com/model/474406-voron-24-skirts-with-hex-infill-250-300-and-350mm-
• QuadraHex Stealthburner Faceplate - https://www.printables.com/model/820733-quadrahex-knomi-2-stealthburner-faceplate
• 92mm Octopus Fan - https://www.printables.com/model/220682-big-tree-tech-octopus-v11-92mm-fan-mount
• 40mm Raspberry Pi Fan - https://www.printables.com/model/186627-raspberry-pi-40mm-fan-mount
• Cable Ducts - https://www.printables.com/model/502306-remix-of-ryandams-cable-management-duct-for-voron-
• Nozzle Scrubber - https://www.printables.com/model/482581-purge-bucket-bin-for-use-with-nozzle-scrubber
• Bed Wagos (6x 221-412) - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/deepfriedheroin/v2_bed_wagos
• Flex Plate M5 Stops - https://www.printables.com/model/411428-voron-24-flex-plate-stops/remixes
• Thermistors on Gantry and Top Chamber - https://www.printables.com/model/410596-voron-chamber-thermistor-mount-2020-extrusion
• 608 Bearing Frictionless Spool Holder with Horizontal Mount - https://www.printables.com/model/500221-voron-spool-holder-608-bearings
• 270deg Removeable Doors - https://github.com/LoganFraser/VoronMods/tree/main/ParametricRemovable270Hinges
• Annex Corners - https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods/tree/main/Printers/All_Printers
• Snap Latches - https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/richardjm/snap-latch-2020
• Voron Sturdy Handles - https://www.printables.com/model/793387-voron-24r2trident-sturdy-handler-remix
• Roll Back Stands - https://www.printables.com/model/408015-voron-rollback-stands

[indi8six]

The Parts / Colour Choice

The Voron Colour Configurator was very helpful in visualising the final build colours, as was VoronDB. Eventually I settled on SUNLU ABS Black for the gantry/chain parts, eSUN ABS+ SkyBlue for the accent parts only (not for structural) and Polymaker Polylite ABS Light Grey for internals. For external parts I used SUNLU ABS White and various mixtures of multi-filament Black/Blue/Grey. 

 

Magic Phoenix has a comprehensive wiki with a print and build guide. I adapted their Google spreadsheet for my own needs, meticulously tracking everything (files, colour, quantity, time etc) carefully due to the number of mods from the outset.

 

Setting the Voron 0.2 to work...

Edited April 15 by indi8six

[indi8six]

The MPX Kit

The Magic Pheonix Kit came extremely well packaged, with different custom-cut foam layers for each section of the build.

 

Hardware was labelled appropriately and everything was individually bagged

 

Replacements

There were not many parts of the kit which I needed to replace, given the quality of the original BOM. I optionally ordered steel Y-backers and DiscoXXL lights from MPX directly.

Whilst the MPX kit comes with a BTT M8Pv2+CB1, I wanted to have separate a MCU and RPI 3b+ for better hardware / software support, as well as power-control. I wanted to use a DSI screen which made the CB1 obsolete, and I also may consider 48V in the future which pointed me towards an Octopus Pro. The price for the Raspberry Pi 3b+ had come down and I managed to snap one up from eBay for £20!

I already had a genuine Omron SSR purchased through Mouser. However, the Omron SSR supplied by MPX looked absolutely identical and did not appear counterfeit, much to my surprise.

The MPX kit comes with black linear rails in non-stainless steel with what felt like light-preload. I replaced the MGN12 with a stainless steel rail with medium-preload

 

Quality

Overall the quality of the kit is superb, considering the value. It is one of the cheapest kits on the market, especially with shipping inclusive of tax to UK. All components appear genuine, genuine Phaetus hotend, extrusions perfectly cut, no additional surplus parts (Canbus and Tap included), surplus of hardware. I couldn't be happier. 

MagicPhoenix have their own Discord server, as well as their on channel on the official Voron Discord. They were highly responsive to any issue, small or large. They are light-years ahead of BTT support in this regard. There was a small minor issue of missing a chain-end piece, but this was shipped via rapid courier and arrived in a few days from China, at their expense. Excellent.

Edited April 15 by indi8six

[Penatr8tor]

Really nice build diary so far. Look forward to the rest of the build.

The SSR with "Earth the mounting rail" on it is the clone. FWIW... I've had a clone on my 2.4 for a couple of years now with zero issues.

[indi8six]

3 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Really nice build diary so far. Look forward to the rest of the build.

The SSR with "Earth the mounting rail" on it is the clone. FWIW... I've had a clone on my 2.4 for a couple of years now with zero issues.

Oh wow, good spot. I didn't see that until you said! Got the genuine installed for peace of mind in any case.

[MrSprinklz]

57 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Really nice build diary so far. Look forward to the rest of the build.

The SSR with "Earth the mounting rail" on it is the clone. FWIW... I've had a clone on my 2.4 for a couple of years now with zero issues.

It looks like 2 slightly different models of Omron SSR, not sure if either are necessarily clones. The one with "Earth the mounting rail" is a G3NB model which Omron's website shows having that text. The G3NA model without the text also looks correct according to the Omron site/datasheet and you bought from Mouser. The font size looks a bit different on them, but that might be to accomodate the extra text.

TLDR: they might both be genuine, just slightly different models

[Penatr8tor]

@MrSprinklz I didn't see the GN3B... You are probably right. 

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, indi8six said:

Oh wow, good spot. I didn't see that until you said! Got the genuine installed for peace of mind in any case.

I could be wrong on that @MrSprinklz makes a good point.

Either way, I think you'll be fine. I heard of people having SSR issues but that was well over a year ago and nothing since then so, it's probably not an issue you'd need to worry about. 

[Penatr8tor]

@indi8six I'm really interested in the Klipper Expander PCB. Have you ordered one or is it kind of a wish list item for the build.

Also, I have used the Waveshare OV5648 camera which is similar to the Aukey camera you're thinking of implementing. Without a fisheye lens you don't get a very good view of what's printing.

I had really good results with the Luke's Lab camera in my VzBot but they're no longer available. I did, however, find the same one as the Luke's Lab cam on Amazon and I ordered one for my Voron 2.4 300 refurb. It should work with the LL cam housing and mount. I just need to make sure that I can find a good place to mount it in the Voron enclosure.

Arducam

The night vision mode is pretty sweet.

Normal Mode.

Night Vision

[Penatr8tor]

@mvdveer I was hoping you'd see the above post.

I'm thinking this camera is a duplicate of what Luke's Lab was selling. I should have it by Wednesday and will let you know if it is. Easy enough to plug into the VzBot and test it out. 

[PFarm]

7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm really interested in the Klipper Expander PCB. Have you ordered one or is it kind of a wish list item for the build.

I have one installed in my V2 to control Caselighting what are you looking to use it for? It's a nice PCB and easy to set up.

[mvdveer]

32 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

@mvdveer I was hoping you'd see the above post.

I'm thinking this camera is a duplicate of what Luke's Lab was selling. I should have it by Wednesday and will let you know if it is. Easy enough to plug into the VzBot and test it out. 

Just ordered a couple from a local supplier - thanks!

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

the Klipper Expander PCB

Have these in the Vo's for additional ports for case lights and LED's. Cheap and easy to install. Works very well indeed

[Penatr8tor]

29 minutes ago, PFarm said:

...what are you looking to use it for? It's a nice PCB and easy to set up.

I don't know yet LOL, just looking for cool stuff in case I want to add something. 

[Penatr8tor]

13 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Just ordered a couple from a local supplier - thanks!

BTW, Here's an optimized case and mount for the camera. The original design was a bit rough and had too much play between the gopro mount blades. The back cover part can be printed as an accent piece. 

Camera_case_back_cover.stlLL_Cam_back_Gopro v3.stlCamera_Front_cover v4.stlLL_GoPro 2020 Mount_PK.stl

[claudermilk]

I have the OV5648 in an Angry Camera mount. Yes, it isn't the best angle ever--I still want to get some kind of camera go point at the nozzle--but it does give an overview of the status of the plate. If you are making a spaghetti or blob monster, or if a big, long piece is warping up (and preparing to hatch a monster), you can see that and react.

I see they are using the handy Google sheet that was shared here a while back. It's super useful for keeping track of the massive print project that a Voron build is.

[MrSprinklz]

11 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I still want to get some kind of camera go point at the nozzle

I may put a pi cam under the gantry or in a front corner for this. I have the AngryCam and it works well, just can't see adhesion issues until they are extreme. I need to swap the pi cam in my V0 to a wide angle anyway and I think the narrow one I already have would be perfect in the V2.4

[indi8six]

The Frame

I used a couple of machinist blocks and a kitchen worktop to square my frame build. The size of the 350mm was huge compared to my v0.2. It can easily swallow it's baby brother up..

 

Z-Drives

I tested all the kit's black linear rails and found the 4x with the least preload for the Z rails. Following a 99.99% alcohol bath, I re-greased the carriers with Silverhook EP2 Lithium Grease. I found that greasing the BBs directly the most efficient method. The MPX carriers didn't come with a grease port and greasing the back through-hole gave me too much grease. 

 

Attaching the Z-drives was simple. The tensioner mechanism is a brilliant bit of Voron design - simple yet effective. I elected to use MPX's electronics layout and placed the DIN rails as per their plan.

(yes that is CPAP tubing in the background)

[indi8six]

Print Bed

Again quite straight forward as per manual. I used the standard Voron method to prevent bed warp (fixed 1 point, loose 3 points). I did research kinematic mounts, but found that Voron's standard method was more than good-enough. Whilst here, I added a few mods...

 

Bed Wagos

The MPX heater is a 800W unit which is pre-prepared and pre-soldered with a thermal fuse. I needed 6 Wago 221-412s for:

• Heater ~
• Heater ~
• Earth
• 24V for THE FILTER (centre and sides)
• Ground for THE FILTER (centre)
• Ground for THE FILTER (sides)

 

Flex Plate Stops

Invaluable in loading spring steel sheets. I ended up using M5 socket-head screws in the end for better rigidity. They are @1mm away from the bed to allow for plate expansion.

 

Nozzle Scrubber

Cheap version with sawn off brushes. I might change this to Bambu Labs style silicone ones, but this works fine for the time being.

(good example of harsh light issues)

 

THE FILTER - Centre and 2 Sides

Having a family meant that a filter was a must. In fact, I modified the original CAD to add another 0.2 layer for the accent pattern (3 layers instead of 2). The MPX kit came with GDStime blowers for a Nevermore. The side fans are dual-BB Winsinn ones. I decided to buy cheaper as these fans are not critical.

A small Wago mount let me consolidate 24v for all 3 modules and the two side module grounds.

The cheap POGO connectors I used (10mm) were too small for the original mounts. I crated some adapters so that I could fit them perfectly snug (Printables link).

[indi8six]

AB Drives / Hartk Pins Mod

I wanted to use Hartk's pins mod and originally bought a 500mm x 5mm length stainless steel rod. I found this dremel cutting mount on Printables and went to work. However, despite printing in the ABS, the cutting mount could not tolerate the heat generated by the cutting friction. Even more frustratingly, having taken 30 minutes to cut one pin, the pin was too tight to fit. I then found out that commercial "pins kits" were 4.9 - 4.95mm so I ordered a kit. Lesson learnt, cutting stainless steel rods with a Dremel is no fun at all. Saving £5 was not worth the time and effort.

 

Y-Gantry Backers

The MPX kit was ordered with optional Y-gantry backers (steel in black) for an extra $10. Bargain. I didn't feel an obvious need for an X-backer given the vertical orientation of the X rail.

 

Hartk GE5C Mod

I used the slimmer mount of the Hartk GE5C Mod. Whilst the bearings were expensive, I did not want to run any risk of QGL issues.

[indi8six]

On 4/15/2024 at 5:20 PM, Penatr8tor said:

@indi8six I'm really interested in the Klipper Expander PCB. Have you ordered one or is it kind of a wish list item for the build.

Also, I have used the Waveshare OV5648 camera which is similar to the Aukey camera you're thinking of implementing. Without a fisheye lens you don't get a very good view of what's printing.

I had really good results with the Luke's Lab camera in my VzBot but they're no longer available. I did, however, find the same one as the Luke's Lab cam on Amazon and I ordered one for my Voron 2.4 300 refurb. It should work with the LL cam housing and mount. I just need to make sure that I can find a good place to mount it in the Voron enclosure.

The Klipper Expander PCBs are brilliant. Also ST32-based (easy to flash) and extremely cheap. I needed to run a more convenient Neopixel position, and also to run the bed fans. To be honest, the main MCU could have handled it all but I had use the expanders boards before in my previous build and the convenience of the final mount position suited me. See below...

 

I used an AUKEY PC-LM1E USB webcam because it contains a REALLY good low-light sensor, especially for its price. The dynamic range in lower light is perfect in the chamber. The board size is similar to other modules (I used an OV2659 in my V0.2). Mounted on the Gantry, the view is pretty perfect for Obico. Here is the view, noting it is 640x480 but can easily do higher.

Edited April 20 by indi8six

[PFarm]

10 hours ago, indi8six said:

AB Drives / Hartk Pins Mod

pin was too tight to fit

For anyone following your build or for you on the next build. Use a drill and sandpaper to make the pins fit properly, did that on both my V2 and Trident. I agree I used Klipper Expander in my builds it's a great cheap add-on board.

Edited April 20 by PFarm

[indi8six]

16 hours ago, PFarm said:

For anyone following your build or for you on the next build. Use a drill and sandpaper to make the pins fit properly, did that on both my V2 and Trident. I agree I used Klipper Expander in my builds it's a great cheap add-on board.

Oh I did do that too (someone mentioned it in Discord) but it took soooooo long and almost set my sandpaper on fire 

Edited April 21 by indi8six

[indi8six]

The Gantry

To avoid issues with part strength, I used Beefy Z-Idlers (part of the Beefy Front Idlers pack). I had to order some more pins and at that point I realised how much of a hassle it would have been to self-source everything (respect to you all!).

 

As mentioned, Beefy Front Idlers (BFI) was deployed for the AB idlers. Instead of the standard faceplate, I used MapleLeafMaker's RGBFI with the original intention of running Neopixels in there. Whilst I think it would be just about possible to run 3-4x lengths of thin wiring in the gantry and Z-chain, I felt it would be too much of a tight fit near the idler bearing. Perhaps a project for a (very) lazy Sunday.

 

I used simple zip-ties to "hang" the gantry, findings the printed Z-lockers a bit too flimsy.

 

I replaced the MPX MGN12 black steel rail with a stainless steel one with medium-preload. YOUMETONG was recommended quite a lot in the Voron Discord as the best balance between cost/quality.

 

The Gantry mount on to the GE5C mod perfectly and I went through the usual squaring and de-racking guides. I eventually replaced the washes with these aluminium spacers (8mm diameter, 5mm hole, 3mm length).

 

 

With most of the gantry installed, I relocated the Z chain to below the gantry. Aesthetically this worked better for me, removing the awkward vertical Z-chain for a neater solution. The original Z-chain supplied in the MPC kit was too big for this purpose, with too large a bend-radius and too wide a channel. Instead I ordered a small bend-radius chain (R18, 10x11 open - matching the original XY chain spec).

 

I then placed my camera and a thermistor on the rear gantry, running through the Z-chain.