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VORON TOWER


PorcoMaster

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Hello guys, i have 4040 profiles with me and i always wanted to build a voron, after so much discussion, and so many people telling me, that it would be feasible, possible or to hard, i just decided to do this whole project on fusion 360, before going to the real life project, and i finally finished, at first i thought it would be just changing 2 files, because i was just changing the frame, how wrong was i, i had to change a total of 10 files, and their mirrors counter parts, i had to change the way of the rail would connect into the frame, and i changed the z rail from mgn9 to mgn12.

while my dream would be a 500mm^3 printer, my first one will be a 350x350x350, with the gantry with 2020.

everything else should be equal as a normal voron.

the whole project is parametric, that means that you can download the file and change the build volume to 700x700x700 or 250x250x250.

before i start doing this crazy build i would like to ask the community, anyone, to look into the files, and ideas, i had on this project, and any feedback is greatly appreciated.
 



Github page:

https://github.com/PorcoMaster/VoronTower

voron tower.png

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Update: on the project file, i updated the build volume that was not quite right, and split into build_volume and build_offset, build volume will reflect exactly what is the size of the build volume, if you want the nozzle to be able to go outside bed for any reason whatsoever you should add build_offset, as standard it's an extra of 50 mm on X, 47 on y, and 20 on Z. also fixed several joints that were troublesome, and updated all door and panel clips, as i was not happy with then , i didn't delete the old files i just moved into the deprecated file, also made a video with an joint analysis, it's not perfect as i was lazy to just fix a few joints limits, but it's possible to be sure that the limits are correct.
also made a pdf file, or picture to help people understand the most common parameters.


i will add a buy list, later on, probably after finishing my buy list 😛

https://youtu.be/IHs4VL9StJw

 

parameter_explanation.jpg

parameter_explanation.pdf

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update: 15 of april of 2024, a few more joints fixed, this fix are about the size of the gantry profiles, as they do have some work around on then i put up to 6 mm more or less. but you should not change more than 3 mm. if you do want to change change on gantry_x_front, gantry_x_back or gantry_y also changed the sizes of gantry and overral so all gantrys were on good sizes to be cut, on older one you would find sizes like 572 mm or 673, now i changed so it has easy to cut sizes ending in 0 or 5, ie. 570,475 and so on. also changed build_x_offset to 47 mm, build_y_offset to 50 mm and build_z_offset to 24 mm, also i will add my first buy list on a 350x350 mm build.

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This looks awesome!

My only thought would be to make the corner verticals on the feet and printer be one piece, instead of segmented. Or at least have the option for that. I feel like the fewer pieces would make assembly easier and possible a bit more stiff. People could pick the length they want and use it as feet, or a stand as you have here.

With one piece, you may be able to have an adjustable z-height even...

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  • 2 weeks later...

One of the things about large build plates is they get larger as they heat up.  If you fix it to the frame solidly then "something" has to bend.  The solution is "kinematic mounts" that hold the plate in a fixed location but also allow it to expand freely.   A mount like this touches the plate in three places.  The best way to do this is to use three, not two extrusions under the place.   A 500x500 plate will change its size by almost 1 mm when going from 20 C to 105 C.

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On 4/19/2024 at 1:18 PM, D__J said:

This looks awesome!

My only thought would be to make the corner verticals on the feet and printer be one piece, instead of segmented. Or at least have the option for that. I feel like the fewer pieces would make assembly easier and possible a bit more stiff. People could pick the length they want and use it as feet, or a stand as you have here.

With one piece, you may be able to have an adjustable z-height even...

hey man, sorry for taking so long to answer, English is not my first language, so i was reading your message time to time for a few days already until i truly understood what you are saying, sorry about that, this is a reading problem, not your fault, either way there is two main reasons i decided to do segmented, the first one, is that if the projects works, it's easier to just take off the box and the feet and have a 4040 Voron, and the project is already done, the second, is that i believe it's easier to build like that, i prefer to use insert nuts the ones you put inside before you start building, so a bigger corner would be harder to build overrall, and several pieces just easy, however looking at the project right now, looks like the project will not change a bit if you decide to just add all sizes and make a huge corner, you don't even need to add anything, i made this project completely parametric, if you wish to use a huge corner, just go to modify->change parameter and look for full height and caster height, the size of a full size corner would be (full height)-(caster height). again looking briefly into my project i don't see anything that i have done that would make this small change not possible.

On 5/3/2024 at 3:31 AM, chrisalbertson said:

One of the things about large build plates is they get larger as they heat up.  If you fix it to the frame solidly then "something" has to bend.  The solution is "kinematic mounts" that hold the plate in a fixed location but also allow it to expand freely.   A mount like this touches the plate in three places.  The best way to do this is to use three, not two extrusions under the place.   A 500x500 plate will change its size by almost 1 mm when going from 20 C to 105 C.

i really appreciate this insight, this week i cut all my 4040, they were gifted to me by a friend and he cuts just a few times a month, so i just asked him to cut a 355x355x350mm project, so there is not turning back now, it will be a 350mm^2 build instead of a 500 mm^2, at least the first one haha.

but i will keep in mind this change in sizes from temperature, you are not the first one to comment that, and while i taught about linear temperature expansion, i didn't really made the calculation, but you are definitely right, i will also probably make a comment on the github project so people be aware of this information and might add a new bean on the bed to accommodate for this change.

Edited by PorcoMaster
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On 5/4/2024 at 10:07 AM, PorcoMaster said:

hey man, sorry for taking so long to answer, English is not my first language, so i was reading your message time to time for a few days already until i truly understood what you are saying, sorry about that, this is a reading problem, not your fault, either way there is two main reasons i decided to do segmented, the first one, is that if the projects works, it's easier to just take off the box and the feet and have a 4040 Voron, and the project is already done, the second, is that i believe it's easier to build like that, i prefer to use insert nuts the ones you put inside before you start building, so a bigger corner would be harder to build overrall, and several pieces just easy, however looking at the project right now, looks like the project will not change a bit if you decide to just add all sizes and make a huge corner, you don't even need to add anything, i made this project completely parametric, if you wish to use a huge corner, just go to modify->change parameter and look for full height and caster height, the size of a full size corner would be (full height)-(caster height). again looking briefly into my project i don't see anything that i have done that would make this small change not possible.

I totally understand. I like the way you have it set up, just an idea that popped into my head. If someone else wanted to build this (I do, but that's for another day) I feel like it could be made adjustable, especially with the rigidity that the 4040 would offer.

I'm excited to follow along with this!

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Hey, I really like your idea. Space is at a premium for me and I'd love to be able to push my printers around. I think I'm going to find a different solution, like a cabinet on wheels, maybe. 

 

But I had an idea, seeing your CADs. Why not place the long extrusions simply on the outside of a allready built voron? Basically a voron in a rack. Height would be adjustable and you could place stiffeners on the diagonals much easier, if needed. 

Edited by Jan_26
Typo
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  • 5 months later...

Just finished the main frame, now it will stay in a limbo for an while as I don't have the money to buy the electronics haha.

 

Just decided go build it, because I had already cut it, and I was a little afraid of losing the parts.

So I build it, and squared it.

At least now I can start printing some parts with time and testing if my modifications were well done. But slowly, I think it will take me at least one more year to finish it 😞.

20241024_104057.jpg

20241024_104034.jpg

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20241024_104045.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Jan_26 said:

Hey, how did you do the vertical joints between the cubes? Just the triangle joiners / corner cubes? 

Looks like it's pretty beefy! 

Yes, corner cubs i did have access to the pull method, but i would need to drill the holes to put it.

 

I used a lot of corner cubs thou. Squaring it was a nightmare in itself, but after some work a plastic mallet and a lot of patient I got a good square.

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23 minutes ago, Jan_26 said:

Okay, was wondering how. Is it rigid enough? It's all 4040s right? Did you weigh it? (or the materials...) 



Yes, it's plenty rigid, I am 110kg and I am sure i could ride it, and it would not even budge, it's fairly light, this 4040 is about 1.6kg per meter.

I used about 15 meters, just aluminum we are talking about 24kg, if we add the wheels and cubes, it will not exceed 30kg. You can easily lift up by yourself.

After I finish all the printer, it will be probably be between 40-50kg.
 

Edited by PorcoMaster
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52 minutes ago, Jan_26 said:

I'm curious how it'll be shaking or not when printing. Gonna be patient and wait for your results 🤭

sincerely, when i lock the wheels it's as stable as a table, but even that i plan to anchor it to the wall, so it reduces any unnecessary frequency, however i will look into a quick/disconnect anchor so it's easy to just take it to another room easily enough.

 

 

50 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Now that is huge ! What do you plan on printing that would be that tall? Will be following along.

while the files are parametric, and it's possible to do a huge printer, this is a standard 350x350x350 voron.

the height is mostly because i wanted a high that i could work comfortable on the printer, being on building it or fixing it. the top box is for filament and a future ERCF, the bottom part i am still unsure in what to do, i am thinking about a cabinet to storage fillament, but if i do a cabinet in there i will have some problem doing maintenance on electronics later on, as i still want to keep the printer somewhat close to original voron.

i don't like tall prints, i would prefer a 1000x1000x300 printer than a 500x500x1000 printer all day long, as FDM print are more strong on X and Y, i like to avoid tall prints when possible.

i really wanted to do a 500x500 at first, as the files permit it, but to go for that route i would need to redesign more than i did, as i don't think 2020 would suffice, so i stopped at 350x350, i had to modified a lot of files to make it work, but if it was a 3030 based printer, the number of files would surely duplicate.

it would work, but i might not be able to get this printer to go fast, and i want to try to get the same speed as normal voron 2.4, so 350x350 is a good base to test it out.

in the end it was a good choice, the whole frame is  60cmx60cmx180cm, so it fits on any doors in any home or office, so you don't need to disassemble to get between rooms, or houses haha,  you just put in your truck and go where you want to go.

Edited by PorcoMaster
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12 minutes ago, PorcoMaster said:

the height is mostly because i wanted a high that i could work comfortable on the printer, being on building it or fixing it. the top box is for filament and a future ERCF, the bottom part i am still unsure in what to do, i am thinking about a cabinet to storage fillament

What a good idea! Good luck with the rest of the build.

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16 hours ago, PorcoMaster said:

the height is mostly because i wanted a high that i could work comfortable on the printer, being on building it or fixing it. the top box is for filament and a future ERCF, the bottom part i am still unsure in what to do, i am thinking about a cabinet to storage fillament, but if i do a cabinet in there i will have some problem doing maintenance on electronics later on, as i still want to keep the printer somewhat close to original voron.

Here's an idea. What if you rotated the electronics bay 90 degrees and made a vertical cabinet on the back of the bottom section? Then the electronics would be accessible from the back and allow you to use the lower part as storage. Even leaving it empty, having the electronics in the stock location would make it really hard to work on. I'm thinking similar to @PFarm's Milo Casa enclosure. Food for thought.

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@claudermilk Great suggestion! It would be like the VZBot printers with the electronics bay at the back of the printer. You could also build that electronic bay frame within the existing frame of the bottom section, which wouldn't change the outer dimensions of the tower.

 

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There's a mod for a top electronics bay, somewhere in the mod repo. Maybe you could borrow some ideas there @PFarm

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Here's an idea. What if you rotated the electronics bay 90 degrees and made a vertical cabinet on the back of the bottom section? Then the electronics would be accessible from the back and allow you to use the lower part as storage. Even leaving it empty, having the electronics in the stock location would make it really hard to work on. I'm thinking similar to @PFarm's Milo Casa enclosure. Food for thought.

 

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2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Here's an idea. What if you rotated the electronics bay 90 degrees and made a vertical cabinet on the back of the bottom section? Then the electronics would be accessible from the back and allow you to use the lower part as storage. Even leaving it empty, having the electronics in the stock location would make it really hard to work on. I'm thinking similar to @PFarm's Milo Casa enclosure. Food for thought.

i thought about that, like in the voron phoenix,

however i didn't put in the initial project, as i should have done the whole tower a little "fatter"to accommodate it, and i want the project in itself to be contained inside the whole tower. it is possible, i just didn't account for it, and i thought about it, but i am still undecided if should do it, another way that i am thinking is doing a drawer type of thing, so i make a cabinet, but the electronics stay on a drawer like this

claudermilk gave me a great idea to do in the back but in the bottom that could also work, and i like this idea.

 

 

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

@claudermilk Great suggestion! It would be like the VZBot printers with the electronics bay at the back of the printer. You could also build that electronic bay frame within the existing frame of the bottom section, which wouldn't change the outer dimensions of the tower.

this idea is amazing, i didn't think of doing in the bottom back. thanks for the visualization

 

 

58 minutes ago, Jan_26 said:

There's a mod for a top electronics bay, somewhere in the mod repo. Maybe you could borrow some ideas there @PFarm

i will look into it, it might be a good idea, however i wanted to reserve the top for a future ERCF, so i am not sure, but i will look into it for sure.

Edited by PorcoMaster
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12 hours ago, PorcoMaster said:

but the electronics stay on a drawer

I did the hinged bed type mod on my 2.4 and remember seeing someone had done a drawer-type mod for his 2.4. I contacted him and he mentioned it was a real pain and suggested the hinge mod instead I also used the inverted e-bay for the Trident. I didn't use the gas shocks in my mod I read that it could distort the extrusion. This could be another option. 

image.png.aff1ab901da722a1e422e36280bfa272.png 

What are your printer design plans 2.4 or Trident style? By the looks of your drawing, it's a 2.4.  The Trident makes is easy to access the electronic bay with the inverted mod.

IMG_2522.thumb.JPG.0a6ee9a555810cb424c9175130e33ccd.JPG 

  

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Uh, a drawer would be a pain, I can see that. Can't have much excess cable, but has to reach to the front. 

I'm excited to see what you come up with in the end. 

My 2.4 has the standard bay, first Voron I build, so I didn't want to complicate things. Backside electronics would have been no real hassle in retrospect, but I'm saying that, having not done it 🤭

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7 hours ago, PFarm said:

I did the hinged bed type mod on my 2.4 and remember seeing someone had done a drawer-type mod for his 2.4. I contacted him and he mentioned it was a real pain and suggested the hinge mod instead I also used the inverted e-bay for the Trident. I didn't use the gas shocks in my mod I read that it could distort the extrusion. This could be another option. 

image.png.aff1ab901da722a1e422e36280bfa272.png 

What are your printer design plans 2.4 or Trident style? By the looks of your drawing, it's a 2.4.  The Trident makes is easy to access the electronic bay with the inverted mod.

I believe this is what  @claudermilk referred to as vertical mounting. 

IMG_2522.thumb.JPG.0a6ee9a555810cb424c9175130e33ccd.JPG 

  

i loved the hinged mod, that thing is insane, however i thinking adding to it an already really modified voron will add more variables when i am trying to fix something or get things faster, i already changed the positioning of the Z rails as they are not front to back but left to right. so that might give me more to look if and just if something doens't work later on. but i appreciate you showing me this mod, for now i loved the idea of doing in the back on the bottom part, i will use more wires but will have easy access and let me have the opportunity of a cabinet in there.

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