Canboot or Katapult

[Gimmi]

 

Hello
I updated Klipper, which meant I had to flash it again.
 Now I'm surprised that I had to flash Canboot on my ebb36 according to the instructions. 
I thought Canboot had to be on the mainboard. Everything works. 
I'm just surprised. I installed M5p and EBB36 via a can bridge

 

Edited April 2 by Gimmi

[Dirk]

Canboot is just a bootloader. 

You do not have to use it.

It makes life much easier though.

If you do not, you will have to do the following steps every time you want to update...

... eh.. someone else has written it better.. check it out:

https://github.com/cruiten/Voron-Related/blob/main/CANbus/Documentation/SB2040_CAN/install_configure_canboot.md

Canboot is just a quality of life improvement.

And yes, you need it on every device you want to flash.

If you want to know more about flashing and can and katapult and so on on printers, make sure to check out Esotericals guide: https://canbus.esoterical.online/

 

He also says you don't need Katapult per se: https://canbus.esoterical.online/#regarding-katapult-formerly-known-as-canboot

Anyway... I have converted my stock voron 2.4 to canboot a few months ago and have been very happy with it. When I look around and see what problems arise, the problems printer users have, are caused by very bad manuals from Chinese manufacturers.  

Whenever you install or update a can network, please check out Esotericals site. He(they) is updating it very regularly with new information and making it fool proof. I also wrote they, because many from the voron discord contribute to the site, with what they learn from printer users like you and me.

Edited April 2 by Dirk

[mvdveer]

As @Dirk said.

Also note Canboot=Katapult. They are the same just a name change.

In the world of today....... Canboot now identifies as Katapult. 

[Gimmi]

 

The link from Dirk is a fantastic site that explains the topic of canboot very well. 
I would like to express my thanks at this point.

https://canbus.esoterical.online/#regarding-katapult-formerly-known-as-canboot

 

[Hulign]

 

This is a timely post @Gimmi.

I'm old and forget things, so I have to relearn setting up canboot/Katapult every time.I have replacement boards coming to replace two different defective SB2204 boards.

BTT tech support doesn't seem to know what the real problem is. They are swapping them out for 2209 boards.

It really sucks because my voron is setup with filament sensors before and after the drive gears and the 2209 will only support one switch input from what I understand.

Thanks for the link @Dirk

This kicks my butt every time. 

Edited April 8 by Hulign

[Dirk]

5 hours ago, Hulign said:

forget things

The nice thing about setting up a can network is, that you do it once and then do not have to do anything with it, unless... you have to (see all the hate towards can bus) update or reinstall or add a component

And as you also know, it is use it or lose it. Its also true with knowledge. I like Esoterical's site, especially since he updates it regularly based on his experience with people having problems and new hardware that is offered for sale. 

Esoterical says one of the main reasons people have problems with CAN, is that they follow the guides of the manufacturers... Who do not have much expertise on CAN. 

 

It is kind of BTT that they want to replace your boards. I have my filament sensor hooked up to where it was previously, on the octopus. But I do not have two. I do know though, that people that build a Filametrix, like @PFarm and @mvdveer do require a sensor before and after the cut... so they should know how to do that.

I wonder if there are not already many additional pcbs or boards on the market that adds this functionality to the SB2209 or alike CANbus toolheads.

If it is true and you can only use 1 filament sensor on your toolhead, you can always consider using the other on your mainboard.

[PFarm]

@Dirk @Hulign Filametrix sensors are just micro switches that don't require power so I've used the Proximity GND and PC13, Endstop GND and PB6. I assume you'd assign those pins in your config for the filament sensor?  Dirk you are right bad documentation or lack of has a lot of bearing on how smooth the transition to Canbus can be. Esoterical is the best site for Canbus support with a very knowledgeable person overseeing it.

 

Edited April 9 by PFarm

[Dirk]

Thanks for your contribution@PFarm . That reminds me of those, simple filament sensors, like these. Which are cheap to build and will only require a pin and a 5v from somewhere. But if you are using the advanced filament sensors like the one from BTT, those need 5 cables to be inserted somewhere

[PFarm]

@Dirk Yes the only difference with the one in Printables is the location of the microswitch. 

Edited April 9 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, Dirk said:

so they should know how to do that.

As @PFarm, said, you can use any spare pins. It does become difficult on some boards. I have a Mellow Fly SB2040 board with limited available pins. But I switched to a Cartographer probe freeing up the probe pin (gpio28). My toolhead sensor is connected to this pin and the Extruder sensor to the pin on the HV connecter (gpio25):

For those that want to use the VCC connector pin (gpio25), remember to put a Pull up resistor before the pin, e.g.  

xxxxxx_pin: ^SB2040:gpio25

as this pin is connected to a diode and unless a pull up resistor is specified for an end stop pin, it will not work.

If you do not have a spare pin on the toolbar, the only option as @Dirk said, is to run a single wire to the printer control board to an endstop pin and use GND connected to the toolboard.

On the SB2209, you are spoiled for options:

[Hulign]

@PFarm yep just a couple microswitches tucked in weird places. I went sensorless for X and Y. I have the 2 switches wired into stops 2 and 3 but I caught a post somewhere that said those aren’t setup the same on the 2040 or 2209. I have a 2040 here but I’m waiting to see if the replacements ever actually show up. Those darn boats aren’t fast enough. 

[mvdveer]

4 minutes ago, Hulign said:

I have a 2040 here

See my post above, if it is of any help with the SB2040

[Hulign]

@mvdveer I'm sure that will be very helpful.

All of this toolhead nonsense has taken a lot of fun out of my current project and I have 2 more sitting here to build. 

I am quite literally months behind. I need to find my motivation. It's weird to not have at least 2 of the printers running. 

Thanks again!

[PFarm]

@Hulign don't give up these printers are such a pleasure to print with once built. Compared to my Creality and Artillery printers they are so much easier to get quality prints with little tweaking before printing. Again we are here to help so please use the knowledge and experience of members in this forum. Which models are you building?

 

Edited April 10 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, Hulign said:

am quite literally months behind. I need to find my motivation. 

Don't get discouraged. I just spent a weekend trying to find out why my printer's motor was "frozen/stuck/bound". I can assure you the next build will go much smoother.

[Hulign]

@PFarm @mvdveer Thanks for the encouragement!

Not to worry I love these things and will continue getting them done. I'm a modder at heart and no other machine scratches that itch like these things.

The plan going forward is make my own machined parts, at least that's what I told my wife when we bought a Syil X7. Finally getting the 4th axis installed and ramping my cad/cam learning up. 

Right now the 2 bambu machines are getting all the project part work. I have a Ender 5 plus to do a core xy mod to and I am sure to make something for that one as well.

Again thank you. It's really nice to see a page without all the gatekeeping and off the rails ego stuff. The crap on the Bambu pages is unreal. 

Hey @mvdveer how goes the Enraged rabbit? I need to get the BOM list bought for the tradrack. I kind of went backward and been playing with the filament respoolers before building the tradrack. I just don't like the default feeder for the ERCF, too cramped and I had issues with getting the drag even across all 9 gates.

 

 

[PFarm]

19 minutes ago, Hulign said:

 I kind of went backward and been playing with the filament respoolers before building the tradrack. 

It's good to hear you'll be moving forward with the build, most of us are modders at heart as well.  I'm putting together re-spoolers for a 6 Tradrack decided on the Filamentalist  Link Here. The idea is to eliminate buffers.

Edited April 11 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

43 minutes ago, PFarm said:

The idea is to eliminate buffers.

Great minds think alike. (Don't anyone dare say "Fools never differ") 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Hulign said:

Hey @mvdveer how goes the Enraged rabbit?

Thanks for the interest!

It is built and will be fitted in the next month to the Voron 2.5 300mm build as it has the same color scheme.

Somewhere else @Razor1666 mentioned "lists". This is on there.

Have mounted the tradrack on the Trident300, tuned it and it is working. (Swapping filament and feeding the hotend. Some slipping which I put down to the reversed Bowden tubing - waiting for more to arrive)

Still need some fine tuning and as @PFarm, I am looking at solutions for replacing filament buffers.

Once I have everything working as I want, I will update the threads on both tradrack and ERCF.

[Hulign]

@mvdveer thoughts to this point between the TR and ERCF?

 

@PFarm I hadn't dug into that one yet. I think I might bump it ahead of the one I'm working on now. Will check it out.

 

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, Hulign said:

thoughts to this point between the TR and ERCF?

Tradrack is an easier build and has a smaller footprint and easy to set up with Annex Engineering software. A bit more complicated setup with Happy Hare, Binky Encoder, Belay sensor, toolhead and extruder sensors. Tuning was straightforward, as I am using a Filametrix filament cutter. 

ERCF - more complex build, more features  such as pre-gate switches, led's and integrated filament management. Only have experience in setting up and tuning  ERCF v1 - was a painful and complex process.  Will see how I go once installing the V2 on the printer.

Interestingly, Happy hare has build in support for EREC filament cutter, not filametrix. Thinking of switching to this, as I quite like the Galileo extruder and although their is a version for the two sensors, it is not compatible with filametrix.

[Hulign]

I have a Galileo 2 setup in mine with a the dual sensor and filametrix cutter. It seems to work just fine but I have yet to try it fully automated. 

I really like the EREC cutter setup and I have built one but wasn't happy with the blade holding or the flex when cutting. They have made improvements since I put mine together. 

I didn't even think of the software aspect of the tradrack. I like all the gadgets and didlybits of the ERCF, it seems like just too much. 

Does the tradrack even use head sensors and the rest of the stuff?

 

 

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, Hulign said:

Does the tradrack even use head sensors and the rest of the stuff?

Not with the native Annex software, but with Happy Hare it could. You also need the Binky mod of Tradrack if you want to use Happy Hare.

[PFarm]

Here is a video link to the filament re-winder I posted previously Video

Edited April 14 by PFarm

[Gimmi]

 

Hello
Today I updated my Voron 2.4 klipper,
 which meant I had to re-flash it. An Octopus STM32F446
 and an Ebb42 are installed. I expanded the U2C because I built a USB to CAN bus bridge.
 I followed the instructions from 
https://canbus.esoterical.online/Final_Steps.html exactly.
 After 2 hours of work everything was done and the native bed mesh clipper was also made.
 It works great.