My first build / 3d printer

[mvdveer]

Oh no - you got me started ....   MODS!

EXTRUDER: Consider the galileo2 extruder rather than CW2 or orbiter 2 if you can afford it. (CW2 is a great extruder but Galileo2 is even better). There are some mods already for the umbilical attachment) Orbiter 2 with canbus boards is a headache as it is difficult to find the perfect fit for the board on the extruder if using the Hartk type of canbus boards (SB2040, SB2209, SB2240,etc).  But still have not found the ideal solution for the SHT36 style boards either. This is a good one for the orbiter 2

IDLERS: Beefy front idlers is a must in my opinion. Much better than standard Voron and an improvement on the Ramalama idlers.  The Hartk pin mod is a "Nice to have mod", but not essential. Easier to do in a new build than later if you decide to go down this road.

UMBILICUS: Have the umbilicus exit through the exhaust vent at the top back of the printer, rather than doing the AB motor mod - this will prevent umbilical sagging. Here are a few examples.

FILTERS : Talking of exhaust filters, you should seriously consider the VFACH filter. Another filter is the Nevermore. Easier to install before the bed is mounted. There are other filters available instead of the nevermore.

PROBE: Going canbus, I would consider the Cartographer probe. Here are a few examples of mounts for the stealth stealthburner. (I have not tried these as I have a CNC Carriage to which these mount). Going cartographer eliminates a USB cable from Beacon and is also much cheaper. This also eliminates the need for a nozzle brush, as you can remove any dry filament during a line purge at the start of the print. It does a much faster QGL and Bed Mesh than Voron TAP

If you decide on VORON TAP, then I would seriously consider purchasing a CNC carriage. Mellow, and Chaotic labs do these but they are expensive. If you decide to go chaotic labs, then ensure you have v2. There is nothing wrong with the printed version but I think you will save yourself a lot of hassle later on. If you do go Voron TAP, you will need a nozzle brush to ensure a clean nozzle for accurate Z-Offset. If you can, consider a silicone brush, (another example)rather than brass. NEVER use a steel brush.

MICROSWITCHES: You can eliminate them through sensorless homing. I still have not gone down this route. X-Endstop switch mounts on the X-Carriage. Y- Endstop switch mounts on the Right back AB Motor mount. There are many ways of doing this. Some examples: One, two, three, listed in my preference order and going with the exhaust vent umbilical vent. If you decide to run the umbilical to the AB motor and route the cables through the Z-Cable chain, then have a look at this  or this for the Y-endstop relocation.

SCREEN: Depends on the "brand - Raspi pi or Waveshare, etc. I have not looked into this but I think there will be plenty available.

5 hours ago, Sleepster said:

180 deg door mod

Are you referring to ClickyClacky mod?  Did a search and could not find a "180 degree door mod" . Have not done this mod, as at present I do not see the need to, as it won't affect the function of the printer.

There are plenty other useful mods like the Ellis Bed Fans and the Rock-n-Roll mod to easily access your electronics compartment. Or the Panzer Ball mod for added noise suppression. (Squash ball mod)

I better stop now cause I will keep on going. Use what you think would be beneficial and within your budget.  Shout out if you need more information. Happy building!

BTW: As a first printer I will advise building Stock, then MOD, but some mods are easier done as part of the initial build, like those I mentioned above.

 

[zav3nd]

26 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

If you do go Voron TAP, you will need a nozzle brush to ensure a clean nozzle for accurate Z-Offset.

Probably true. I've managed without just had to get a decent retraction into the print end, I think I'm at 5mm. Worked great for ABS, just have to deal with it a bit on filament changes.

 

Then I switched to TPU to play around, and it still messes up the nozzle if I'm not careful.

[Sleepster]

Ok will do that 

10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Oh no - you got me started ....   MODS!

EXTRUDER: Consider the galileo2 extruder rather than CW2 or orbiter 2 if you can afford it. (CW2 is a great extruder but Galileo2 is even better). There are some mods already for the umbilical attachment) Orbiter 2 with canbus boards is a headache as it is difficult to find the perfect fit for the board on the extruder if using the Hartk type of canbus boards (SB2040, SB2209, SB2240,etc).  But still have not found the ideal solution for the SHT36 style boards either. This is a good one for the orbiter 2

IDLERS: Beefy front idlers is a must in my opinion. Much better than standard Voron and an improvement on the Ramalama idlers.  The Hartk pin mod is a "Nice to have mod", but not essential. Easier to do in a new build than later if you decide to go down this road.

UMBILICUS: Have the umbilicus exit through the exhaust vent at the top back of the printer, rather than doing the AB motor mod - this will prevent umbilical sagging. Here are a few examples.

FILTERS : Talking of exhaust filters, you should seriously consider the VFACH filter. Another filter is the Nevermore. Easier to install before the bed is mounted. There are other filters available instead of the nevermore.

PROBE: Going canbus, I would consider the Cartographer probe. Here are a few examples of mounts for the stealth stealthburner. (I have not tried these as I have a CNC Carriage to which these mount). Going cartographer eliminates a USB cable from Beacon and is also much cheaper. This also eliminates the need for a nozzle brush, as you can remove any dry filament during a line purge at the start of the print. It does a much faster QGL and Bed Mesh than Voron TAP

If you decide on VORON TAP, then I would seriously consider purchasing a CNC carriage. Mellow, and Chaotic labs do these but they are expensive. If you decide to go chaotic labs, then ensure you have v2. There is nothing wrong with the printed version but I think you will save yourself a lot of hassle later on. If you do go Voron TAP, you will need a nozzle brush to ensure a clean nozzle for accurate Z-Offset. If you can, consider a silicone brush, (another example)rather than brass. NEVER use a steel brush.

MICROSWITCHES: You can eliminate them through sensorless homing. I still have not gone down this route. X-Endstop switch mounts on the X-Carriage. Y- Endstop switch mounts on the Right back AB Motor mount. There are many ways of doing this. Some examples: One, two, three, listed in my preference order and going with the exhaust vent umbilical vent. If you decide to run the umbilical to the AB motor and route the cables through the Z-Cable chain, then have a look at this  or this for the Y-endstop relocation.

SCREEN: Depends on the "brand - Raspi pi or Waveshare, etc. I have not looked into this but I think there will be plenty available.

Are you referring to ClickyClacky mod?  Did a search and could not find a "180 degree door mod" . Have not done this mod, as at present I do not see the need to, as it won't affect the function of the printer.

There are plenty other useful mods like the Ellis Bed Fans and the Rock-n-Roll mod to easily access your electronics compartment. Or the Panzer Ball mod for added noise suppression. (Squash ball mod)

I better stop now cause I will keep on going. Use what you think would be beneficial and within your budget.  Shout out if you need more information. Happy building!

BTW: As a first printer I will advise building Stock, then MOD, but some mods are easier done as part of the initial build, like those I mentioned above.

Yeah that was what I was thinking hinge mods etc I can do later on but like u said some are better to do now

[Sleepster]

1 minute ago, Sleepster said:

Ok will do that 

Yeah that was what I was thinking hinge mods etc I can do later on but like u said some are better to do now

 

10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Oh no - you got me started ....   MODS!

EXTRUDER: Consider the galileo2 extruder rather than CW2 or orbiter 2 if you can afford it. (CW2 is a great extruder but Galileo2 is even better). There are some mods already for the umbilical attachment) Orbiter 2 with canbus boards is a headache as it is difficult to find the perfect fit for the board on the extruder if using the Hartk type of canbus boards (SB2040, SB2209, SB2240,etc).  But still have not found the ideal solution for the SHT36 style boards either. This is a good one for the orbiter 2

IDLERS: Beefy front idlers is a must in my opinion. Much better than standard Voron and an improvement on the Ramalama idlers.  The Hartk pin mod is a "Nice to have mod", but not essential. Easier to do in a new build than later if you decide to go down this road.

UMBILICUS: Have the umbilicus exit through the exhaust vent at the top back of the printer, rather than doing the AB motor mod - this will prevent umbilical sagging. Here are a few examples.

FILTERS : Talking of exhaust filters, you should seriously consider the VFACH filter. Another filter is the Nevermore. Easier to install before the bed is mounted. There are other filters available instead of the nevermore.

PROBE: Going canbus, I would consider the Cartographer probe. Here are a few examples of mounts for the stealth stealthburner. (I have not tried these as I have a CNC Carriage to which these mount). Going cartographer eliminates a USB cable from Beacon and is also much cheaper. This also eliminates the need for a nozzle brush, as you can remove any dry filament during a line purge at the start of the print. It does a much faster QGL and Bed Mesh than Voron TAP

If you decide on VORON TAP, then I would seriously consider purchasing a CNC carriage. Mellow, and Chaotic labs do these but they are expensive. If you decide to go chaotic labs, then ensure you have v2. There is nothing wrong with the printed version but I think you will save yourself a lot of hassle later on. If you do go Voron TAP, you will need a nozzle brush to ensure a clean nozzle for accurate Z-Offset. If you can, consider a silicone brush, (another example)rather than brass. NEVER use a steel brush.

MICROSWITCHES: You can eliminate them through sensorless homing. I still have not gone down this route. X-Endstop switch mounts on the X-Carriage. Y- Endstop switch mounts on the Right back AB Motor mount. There are many ways of doing this. Some examples: One, two, three, listed in my preference order and going with the exhaust vent umbilical vent. If you decide to run the umbilical to the AB motor and route the cables through the Z-Cable chain, then have a look at this  or this for the Y-endstop relocation.

SCREEN: Depends on the "brand - Raspi pi or Waveshare, etc. I have not looked into this but I think there will be plenty available.

Are you referring to ClickyClacky mod?  Did a search and could not find a "180 degree door mod" . Have not done this mod, as at present I do not see the need to, as it won't affect the function of the printer.

There are plenty other useful mods like the Ellis Bed Fans and the Rock-n-Roll mod to easily access your electronics compartment. Or the Panzer Ball mod for added noise suppression. (Squash ball mod)

I better stop now cause I will keep on going. Use what you think would be beneficial and within your budget.  Shout out if you need more information. Happy building!

BTW: As a first printer I will advise building Stock, then MOD, but some mods are easier done as part of the initial build, like those I mentioned above.

I was looking at the chaotic lab v2 as is easier to get hold of here as for the door mod no not the clicks clack I cannot rember were I saw the one I was thinking from memory used stock doors and allowed them.to swing open better from memory will find them and if I do link as well I was looking at the galleleo 2 I just went blank on the name when I did the post so looks like I will go down that path what is your recommendation for hot end was looking at the rapido 2 uhf but not a lot of files for mounting out there being so new one of the guys here did link one might look into the beefy idlers as well thankyou is the nethermore worth or the other filter u linked better I assume u then put the blanking plate mod on then

 

 

[Sleepster]

11 hours ago, zav3nd said:

Probably true. I've managed without just had to get a decent retraction into the print end, I think I'm at 5mm. Worked great for ABS, just have to deal with it a bit on filament changes.

Then I switched to TPU to play around, and it still messes up the nozzle if I'm not careful.

Thankyou will get this

[Sleepster]

11 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Oh no - you got me started ....   MODS!

EXTRUDER: Consider the galileo2 extruder rather than CW2 or orbiter 2 if you can afford it. (CW2 is a great extruder but Galileo2 is even better). There are some mods already for the umbilical attachment) Orbiter 2 with canbus boards is a headache as it is difficult to find the perfect fit for the board on the extruder if using the Hartk type of canbus boards (SB2040, SB2209, SB2240,etc).  But still have not found the ideal solution for the SHT36 style boards either. This is a good one for the orbiter 2

IDLERS: Beefy front idlers is a must in my opinion. Much better than standard Voron and an improvement on the Ramalama idlers.  The Hartk pin mod is a "Nice to have mod", but not essential. Easier to do in a new build than later if you decide to go down this road.

UMBILICUS: Have the umbilicus exit through the exhaust vent at the top back of the printer, rather than doing the AB motor mod - this will prevent umbilical sagging. Here are a few examples.

FILTERS : Talking of exhaust filters, you should seriously consider the VFACH filter. Another filter is the Nevermore. Easier to install before the bed is mounted. There are other filters available instead of the nevermore.

PROBE: Going canbus, I would consider the Cartographer probe. Here are a few examples of mounts for the stealth stealthburner. (I have not tried these as I have a CNC Carriage to which these mount). Going cartographer eliminates a USB cable from Beacon and is also much cheaper. This also eliminates the need for a nozzle brush, as you can remove any dry filament during a line purge at the start of the print. It does a much faster QGL and Bed Mesh than Voron TAP

If you decide on VORON TAP, then I would seriously consider purchasing a CNC carriage. Mellow, and Chaotic labs do these but they are expensive. If you decide to go chaotic labs, then ensure you have v2. There is nothing wrong with the printed version but I think you will save yourself a lot of hassle later on. If you do go Voron TAP, you will need a nozzle brush to ensure a clean nozzle for accurate Z-Offset. If you can, consider a silicone brush, (another example)rather than brass. NEVER use a steel brush.

MICROSWITCHES: You can eliminate them through sensorless homing. I still have not gone down this route. X-Endstop switch mounts on the X-Carriage. Y- Endstop switch mounts on the Right back AB Motor mount. There are many ways of doing this. Some examples: One, two, three, listed in my preference order and going with the exhaust vent umbilical vent. If you decide to run the umbilical to the AB motor and route the cables through the Z-Cable chain, then have a look at this  or this for the Y-endstop relocation.

SCREEN: Depends on the "brand - Raspi pi or Waveshare, etc. I have not looked into this but I think there will be plenty available.

Are you referring to ClickyClacky mod?  Did a search and could not find a "180 degree door mod" . Have not done this mod, as at present I do not see the need to, as it won't affect the function of the printer.

There are plenty other useful mods like the Ellis Bed Fans and the Rock-n-Roll mod to easily access your electronics compartment. Or the Panzer Ball mod for added noise suppression. (Squash ball mod)

I better stop now cause I will keep on going. Use what you think would be beneficial and within your budget.  Shout out if you need more information. Happy building!

BTW: As a first printer I will advise building Stock, then MOD, but some mods are easier done as part of the initial build, like those I mentioned above.

Is the 270 or 290 deg door mod sorry when I did the original post it was 230am was still not with it lol see it is posted here

[atrushing]

22 minutes ago, Sleepster said:

I was looking at the chaotic lab v2 as is easier to get hold of here

You can always try the latest version of DAB now that it fits the Stealthburner. It is extremely easy to source

[Sleepster]

15 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Oh no - you got me started ....   MODS!

EXTRUDER: Consider the galileo2 extruder rather than CW2 or orbiter 2 if you can afford it. (CW2 is a great extruder but Galileo2 is even better). There are some mods already for the umbilical attachment) Orbiter 2 with canbus boards is a headache as it is difficult to find the perfect fit for the board on the extruder if using the Hartk type of canbus boards (SB2040, SB2209, SB2240,etc).  But still have not found the ideal solution for the SHT36 style boards either. This is a good one for the orbiter 2

 

Hey sorry to be a pest which one is the preferred option ldo do a g2e or a g2z galleleo 2 kit I see they talk about the g2z for the voron 2 and referring to it being better fot the little printers but the 2.4 is a larger printer or is there more to it 

 

Thankyou for all your help so far

[Sleepster]

3 hours ago, atrushing said:

You can always try the latest version of DAB now that it fits the Stealthburner. It is extremely easy to source

I will look into this option thankyou

[mvdveer]

11 hours ago, Sleepster said:

hot end was looking at the rapido 2 uhf

Any hotend that takes your fancy. I am "stuck " in the Revo3d Voron scene. All my printers have revo voron nozzles except the VZBot that had a Rapidov1 nozzle. I changed this to a Dragon UHF two weeks ago or so due to repeated clogs in the rapido. 

 

6 hours ago, Sleepster said:

ldo do a g2e or a g2z galleleo 2 kit I see they talk about the g2z for the voron 2 and referring to it being better fot the little printers

The extruder is the g2e. There are two variants - Standalone and the fall in replacement for the CW2. That is the one I built. It accepts HartK type canbus boards without any fiddling.I would not go with the G2Z - too costly and you have more than enough space in the V2.4 for the standard Z-setup.

[Sleepster]

7 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Any hotend that takes your fancy. I am "stuck " in the Revo3d Voron scene. All my printers have revo voron nozzles except the VZBot that had a Rapidov1 nozzle. I changed this to a Dragon UHF two weeks ago or so due to repeated clogs in the rapido. 

The extruder is the g2e. There are two variants - Standalone and the fall in replacement for the CW2. That is the one I built. It accepts HartK type canbus boards without any fiddling.I would not go with the G2Z - too costly and you have more than enough space in the V2.4 for the standard Z-setup.

Ok g2e it is

[Sleepster]

I am having trouble finding the correct greese here in Australia can get these easy enough but not the ep1 or ep2 at this stage 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Sleepster said:

I am having trouble finding the correct greese here in Australia can get these easy enough but not the ep1 or ep2 at this stage

As you, I am down under. I just order through Amazon Australia - a bit more expensive but lasts forever. this is the one I got

https://www.amazon.com.au/Mobilux-EP-Grease-NLGI-13-7/dp/B009OXHTGC

 

[Sleepster]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

As you, I am down under. I just order through Amazon Australia - a bit more expensive but lasts forever. this is the one I got

https://www.amazon.com.au/Mobilux-EP-Grease-NLGI-13-7/dp/B009OXHTGC

Yeah I keep finding that one at that price too lol

[sleepster217]

On 4/28/2024 at 9:10 PM, Sleepster said:

Yeah I keep finding that one at that price too lol

Ok I have a tube of that stuff coming now 

[sleepster217]

Wiring as per bom as I am going canbuss and the canbuss board I am getting has a can cable with it what cables will I need size for the low voltage side 22g or 20g I mean to do all of it motors boards etc

[Sleepster]

So i have the moons motors for my voron build ms17hd6p4200 and there is no wiring pin out or markings on the motors I asked the shop I brought them for he sent me this but I am to new to this to understand he has drawn this up dose it mean anything to you smarter people thankyou in advance

[claudermilk]

The two coils correspond to the 1 and 2 notes. So 1A and 1B are one coil and 2A and 2B are the other. At least that's my understanding. There should be a pinout diagram for where you're plugging it (I saw you are doing CANbus so @mvdveer will be more help than me on that front). It should be as simple as plug the 1A wire to the 1A pin on the motor plug on the board, etc.

[sleepster217]

Sorry this is me did not realise I have 2 accounts

[mvdveer]

As @claudermilk indicated. Marry up the notation on the motor with the EBB board.

 

[PFarm]

@sleepster217  1&3 is one coil 4&6 is the other coil.

[sleepster217]

15 hours ago, mvdveer said:

As @claudermilk indicated. Marry up the notation on the motor with the EBB board.

Thankyou I appreciate it

 

[sleepster217]

13 hours ago, PFarm said:

@sleepster217  1&3 is one coil 4&6 is the other coil.

That is great thankyou for this

[sleepster217]

23 hours ago, claudermilk said:

The two coils correspond to the 1 and 2 notes. So 1A and 1B are one coil and 2A and 2B are the other. At least that's my understanding. There should be a pinout diagram for where you're plugging it (I saw you are doing CANbus so @mvdveer will be more help than me on that front). It should be as simple as plug the 1A wire to the 1A pin on the motor plug on the board, etc.

Thankyou for the help as I will need the info for the other bit of wiring 

[sleepster217]

So I started cleaning and lubing up the linear rails with the ep1 greese let say was not impressed with the rails as 1 feels like all the rollers have flat spots the second one is a little rough the others are good not brilliant the mgh12 was loose np movement but when I used the isopropyl alcohol the rail could move buy its self is ment to be the z1 so seems a bit loose but I am curious as to what you guys think 2 of the smaller rails feel good I will link a video of the bad one later if this site will let me