My first build a Fysetc v2.4r2-300 kit

[afm380]

In my introduction post I stated that I'm not really into social media and promised that I'd attempt to produce a Build Diary (as my 'newbie' experience may help others make educated decisions that may have not been obvious without my fumbles). Anyway here goes ...

I missed the boat on an LDO kit last year when Matter Hackers was offloading their rev a kits, and have been kicking myself ever since.  I kept justifying to that my two Enders are meeting all of my printing needs, and don't really NEED a Voron.  But ... fortunately fell prey to a deal that I couldn't pass up on a Fysetc v2.4r2-300 kit.  

So far I like how quickly the kit shipped with everything packaged well.  Inventory and quality of the kit parts is all in order with only a few fasteners being a little too few (it sure would be nice if they would invested just a few pennies and provide a few extra fasteners).

I always go thru the entire manual (maybe a little too quickly in some sections) and a dry build to validate that a final build will be a successful build ...

The first prints that I chose to do (before the kit arrived) were the Clockwork 2 pieces as calibration testing of my Enders.  And as I was inspecting these pieces my kit arrived and this was the first time I would know what color 'random' is.  I was pleasantly surprised.  Close inspection you can see that I do have some warping that need some attention

 

 

[afm380]

here's what it took to completely enclose the shelf where my Enders live, and all pieces now get either a full brim or mouse ears to fight the warping issues

Please excuse the mess ... as you can see this is a multi-function workspace ...

While additional parts are printing, I proceed to get the frame built and start my dry run.  The extrusions are all nice straight, square, and all the appropriate lengths.  The frame goes together nice and square with very little tweaking 

... but don't look too close, or you'll notice that the linear rails incorrectly mounted in the wrong orientation (that's what dry runs are for ...) 

Talking about the linear rails ... I wiped them down with ipa and the generously lubed them with a synthetic grease that I've used with great success on my high reving two stroke race bikes for years.  I was disappointed in how gritty they felt afterwards (I'll need to spent some time on those before to the final build) ... but now that the gantry is built and installed is feels quite smooth (but with no load I'll have to see if they still feel gritty)

Edited February 29 by afm380

[claudermilk]

Looking good, you made a lot of progress. I approve of the random color (I'm totally not biased.  ).

[PFarm]

13 hours ago, afm380 said:

here's what it took to completely enclose the shelf where my Enders live, and all pieces now get either a full brim or mouse ears to fight the warping issues

Most of us have been there when building our first printer, I'd used a cardboard box to put my Artellery X1 in to print my ABS parts. Nice progress love the colour combo.

[Penatr8tor]

Looks really good @afm380 

I like the color scheme.

Most of us here can appreciate the challenges associated with printing ABS parts on an old bed slinger. I even used a number of PLA parts for the bottom skirt on my first Voron build.

[afm380]

I've been away from my workspace a few days (which is why I've had some time to put into this diary).  But being away has also given more time for the mod bug to creep in.

Tap seems to make a lot of sense (and it'll free up the klicky parts that came with kit for the Ender 5)

If I need to buy a nema 14 for a true CW2 build, it might as well be in a Galileo 2 kit 

and the Nighthawk toolboard looks like it's add reliability to broken wires inside the cable chain

... any recommendations on suppliers for these?

[zav3nd]

You are making me wish I went for more color on mine!

 

Sourcing seems to be more dependent on where you are than anything else.

https://west3d.com/ is in Oregon

https://www.fabreeko.com/ is in Florida?

 

Probably others but those are the two I've mainly looked at (outside of formbot and direct buys). For my tap I ordered direct from Chaoticlabs CNC tap V2, but it may be a week or two from China (I think?), but west3d was out of stock. I had looked at Vitalli tap some but couldn't find enough comparisons or very many detailed reviews so went the other route.

[afm380]

progress has been a little slow, waiting on bits and pieces to arrive ...

so ... I've been printing Tap components (may go the cnc route eventually) ... here's the mock up with a printed short linear rail

and pieces to support the Bambu Labs hotend assembly (just seams to make sense for hardened nozzles), although now that I've made that decision I'm a little concerned that the Bambu Labs assembly may not hold up to the forces that Tap may induce.  I see that Ali Express has a Bambu replacement that fixes the Bambu bent nozzle issue ... but, is that a 'real' issue? 

  so ... overall it doesn't look like much progress, but I'm feeling pretty good about how it's coming together  

[afm380]

skirts are coming together nicely .... just spun up with trying to balance the 'bling'.  Although it's really interesting how the reflections off the extrusions compliment the teal parts (or is it the other way around)

 

I run my Enders off a single pi running multiple instances of Klipper, so ... I like this skirt that exposes the USB and wired ethernet port out the back.  Now that pi's are available again it 'might' make sense to dedicate a pi to this machine.  This will also give me nice flexibility for web cam and adxl access ports.

 

Now that the mechanical dry run is pretty solid, onto figuring out the electronics.  Which leads me back to the next gotcha with this older Fysetc kit.

It doesn't have the right pieces to support Stealthburner ... the toolhead pcb lacks provisions for the leds, and while I've never had nozzle lights I was really looking forward to not having to use a flashlight anymore.  While I can probably add wiring to the harness and use the unused x-endtop connector on the pcb ... it'd probably make more sense to get the right pcb (but what's the fun in that)    

 

Edited March 21 by afm380

[afm380]

toolhead board wired up. As much as I was looking forward to the toolhead led's, I've decided to move forward without them.  If I choose to go with another bus system for the toolhead they'll be added then (if not earlier).

Not sure that I'm really happy with the cheap micro connectors that this kit came with (but at least it came with something).  Does anybody have a recommendation for a good assortment of these little connectors (what I've found on Amazon appears to have more of what I don't need than what I think I need ...)? 

[afm380]

this weekends progress ... 

I got the toolhead built with TAP, the cable chain run and all wired up ... trust me ya don't wanna see the underside.

there is a clearance issue of the wiring harness coming off the back of the toolhead clashes with the vertical cable chain. Hopefully I just find a better position for he toolhead board mounting.  I know I should have ordered a stealthburner toolhead board.  But we all know how perfect hindsight is ...   

It hit me that having the usb and ethernet accessible from the back side wasn't 'really' accessible ... so, I moved it up front.

It's getting really close to pushing plastic ... the enclosure panels can wait

 

[afm380]

well after fighting with it all morning I finally have the Fysetc Spider talking thru the Pi and working on the Klipper configuration.  Fan's power up, PID tuning looks like the heaters and thermistors are all happy, x and z endstops trigger nicely.  That where the success finds to a halt ... the OptoTap v2 won't trigger.

The wiring looks good to the toolboard, and if I plug the Omron inductive probe in and bring it close to the bed everything triggers nicely.  The optical tap pcb's led doesn't light up so I have to guess if a dead unit.  Maybe I shouldn't have gone the TAP route to begin this build.  

Oh Soooooooo Close ...

 

Edited April 12 by afm380

[claudermilk]

Double check your wiring. The pin order is likely different between the sensor and the PCB.

[afm380]

I did have to rewire the PCB side of the harness supplied to get the matching connectors ... G - Black, W - Signal, and R - Voltage

.... but was I supposed to slice a trace before sending it 24volts (I was under the impression that this was the 24v and if 5v was needed that would be cut to change) ... now I have to imagine that I popped the optical sensor ... ggggrrrr

Edited April 13 by afm380

[afm380]

hopefully .. I may have found the issue,. Once I verified the Ormron wiring I double check the wiring to the PCB of the OptoTap .... I appears that at least one of the connections broke when I crimped the insulation ... now that I actually have 24v thru the harness to the OptoTap, do I need to cut the 5/24v trace ????? My guess is no ...

 

[afm380]

NICE .... I have LED's and z/probe endstop triggers.  It's always good when it operator error (without letting the magic smoke out) instead of faulty parts.

[PFarm]

Good for you and not giving up paid off.

[claudermilk]

17 hours ago, afm380 said:

hopefully .. I may have found the issue,. Once I verified the Ormron wiring I double check the wiring to the PCB of the OptoTap .... I appears that at least one of the connections broke when I crimped the insulation ... now that I actually have 24v thru the harness to the OptoTap, do I need to cut the 5/24v trace ????? My guess is no ...

No, you shouldn't. I have the v2.4.1 and and am sending 24V through my hartk 2-piece toolhead board.

[afm380]

getting pretty close to pushing plastic ... got all stepper buzzing the correct direction, flipped the A/B motors to get it to home correctly, quad gantry levels nicely in three passes (appears to be typical), and the z-offset is very consistent.  Having a little struggle with getting KAMP happy with the config (but that shouldn't be a show stopped).  I should be close enough to validate extruder direction ... that counts as pushing plastic ... right?

[afm380]

..... hhhhmmmmmm, it looks like my issue with KAMP is that the BED_Mesh tools are missing from my Fluidd Tune section

[afm380]

 

it pushes plastic ...  gotta head down to the grandkids for a bbq (so ... this is all there is to see for now ...)

 

 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, afm380 said:

t pushes plastic ...  gotta head down to the grandkids for a bbq

It's alive - great milestone. Now onto the Ellis Tuning guide. You'r gonna print a lot of little squares 

[claudermilk]

Congrats! What @mvdveer said. Then it's time for a serial request.

[Penatr8tor]

Printer looks awesome @afm380 Congrats on getting it up and printing. 

[afm380]

fighting bed adhesion a little with this plate (I guess ya's gets what ya pays fer) ... but I'm hoping with a little use and conditioning it'll get better.  I'm REALLY happy with how smooth the motion system runs and the speed, definitely a step above on how my Ender's are running (I guess ya's gets what ya pays fer).  Next hurdle is to figure out panel mounting, there appears to be too many good options to choose ... and as I understand it panels (at least the bottom and back) are required for the acceptance of a s/n request.