klicky probe on octopus pro board

[prettyboyfpv]

Recently I have completed my first Voron 2.4 build. I do have prior experiance building and modding printers but this has me thrrown for a loop. I am trying to replace my iinductive probe with a klickly probe setup. I recently did so and i cannot get the probe to now funtion as i need. am i susposed to hook the wires to an empty endstop header or am i to use a probe header on my octopus board. PLEASE HELP

[claudermilk]

From my understanding, it simply replaces the inductive probe. Just don't connect the 24V wire, so signal and ground only. Check the Steve Builds Youtube videos, he has one stream that he specifically swapped to Klicky on his orange Trident.

[show420]

The above answer is correct.  That is how mine is hooked up anyways.  If you look at the attached photo it may help.  Just remove the voltage wire and keep the ground and signal.

[SteveThatcher]

20 hours ago, Buurman said:

On above, in the manual they now say to NOT use the SSR out, (two screws on corner) but connect it to LED out next to the  hotend heater connection.

I wonder why mostly, that you have the SSR screws left to connect LEDS?? (high power out).

 

Technically the only thing that connecting the SSR to HE1 does is make the config file the same between different controller boards in my opinion. The manual simply points to HE1 without any reason for not using the bed pins. Someone in the voron group decided that HE1 was easier while BTT figured the bed pins would work with the SSR. The schematics for the outputs are identical except for the bed output being a device that can carry more current that the hotend outputs.

With the higher capability in mind, the bed outputs could be used for a 12 or 24 volt chamber heater as long you have enough power supply current for it. Just a thought...

Edited May 18, 2022 by SteveThatcher

[porkbrains]

Use the manual. LEDs will hook up at HE2. 

[Buurman]

Thanks for this it helped me making the choice how to connect the Klicky, wasnt very easy to find.

On above, in the manual they now say to NOT use the SSR out, (two screws on corner) but connect it to LED out next to the  hotend heater connection.

I wonder why mostly, that you have the SSR screws left to connect LEDS?? (high power out).